• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.39-49
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• 2015

Heavenly Kingdom was known for their strict discipline and law as well as their anti-corruption practices and for putting up unconventional ideas to rule its kingdom. They became weak as their leadership was split along with the power struggles that occurred within their kingdom. Heavenly Kingdom's style of dress also ended during this period, but their philosophy continues to influence the style of dress. Taiping rebellion was modern China's biggest internal disturbance which prior studies included political ideals, gender equality and the peasant movement. My research is to associate Heavenly Kingdom's ideas and their dress style by analyzing its relations. Their form of clothing was similar to the Qing Dynasty but the same. They wanted to restore their identity of the Han(漢) while their ideology was oriented in creating a large enough military power to go against the corrupt Qing Dynasty as seen in their military uniform. This research is to analyze about Heavenly Kingdom's ideology with regard to their style of dress but because of their short existence, there are only small remains of artifacts and clothing available which limits this research. This research has to developing further research as I gather more additional data.

• 복식
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• 제50권3호
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• pp.59-72
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• 2000

Dragon robe was defined as a robe on which the principal design consisted of dragon. Dragon patterns have been used on princess robes during T'and Dynasty. In Sung, Dragon-figured robes seem to have an Imperial prerogative. Yuan took over the use of robes with dragons patterns as a definite institition. Ming tried to reject all Yuan innovations, the dragon robe was retained as an unofficial court costume. The Emperor's semiformal robes which at first had four dragon medallions, later had twelve along with the 12 Symbols(십이장문). As Ch'ing dragon robes were only intended fro semiformal use. The Later Ch'ing robes date from after 1719, when the Ch'ien-lung(건륭) introduced 12 Symbols on Ch'ing robes. The Ch'ien-lung laws were disobeyed, notably the ones that specified the number of claws on the dragons. THe Emperor's dragon robe, lung-p'ao, (용포) was described as bright yellow in color, having four slits and horsefoof cuffs. The basic pattern consisted of nin dragons, in addition it had 12 Symbols. The elaborate textile techniques reached their peak in Ch'ing Dynasty-with its Weaving and Dyeing Office in Peking, and this factories at Hangchow(항주), Soochow(소주), and Naking(남경) -helps to explain why the decay of the Ch'ing bureaucracy hastended the decline of dragon robes. In the Ch'ing Dynasty tow terms were used for dragon robe, depending on the number of claws on the dragons. Those with five-clawed dragons were called lung-p'ao, while those with four-clawed dragons were called mang-p'ao(망포). The Court felt compelled to take corrective meausres. It decreeed that Ninisters of State and other officials, who had been bestowed five-clawed lung dragons, must take out one claw. Finally, the sale of ranks and the attendant privilege of wearing dragon robes gradually increased during the 18 th century, reaching its height in the 19 th century, Finally, after the Taiping Rebellion, when the Imperial Treasury was depleted by the wholesale destruction of revenue-producing lands, the Chinese government came to depend on such sales as an important source of revenue and the practice became even more widespread. The ensuing mass production of dragon robes, and the necessity of conforming to the fairly rigid basic pattern established in 1759, resulted in marked deterioration of workmanship, and a comparative monotony of decoration. The patterns on the dragon robes slight changes continued to be made in the ways of representign them. The li shui (입수) portion at the base of the robe become inreasingly wider throughout the 19th century. The background became cluttered with symbols of good fortune, scattered among the clouds and waves. As a result of all this extraneous decoration, the dragons were so crowded that they had to shrink back into the small size that they had originally occupied in the medallons. Kuang-hsu(광저) was a long one, allowing time for the manufacture of numerous robes. Also, it would seem likely that Occidental museums and collections would have a considerable number of his robes, in view of the widespread looting of his palaces during the Allied occupation of Peking in 1900, and the frequent sales of Late Ch'ing imperial textiles by destitute Manchu courtiers in the '20's.

• 한국철학논집
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• 제31호
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• pp.375-406
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• 2011

이 글은 근대 동아시아 삼국의 대표적인 신종교라고 할 수 있는 중국의 배상제교, 조선의 동학, 그리고 일본의 천리교를 선택하여 각 종교 교리 가운데 내포되어 있는 지식인 '사(士)'의 이상적인 이미지와 사상적인 경향을 살펴본 것이다. 특히 이 글에서는 각 종교교단의 교조 즉 배상제회의 홍수전(洪秀全, 훙시우취엔, 1814-1864), 동학의 최제우(崔濟愚, 1824-1864), 그리고 일본 천리교의 나카야마 미키(中山みき, 1798-1887)의 사상을 중심으로 살폈는데, 이들 세 사람이 추구했던 이상은 각자가 어려운 환경에서 겪은 종교체험에 그대로 반영되었다. 홍수전은 하늘이 보낸 관리로서 신으로부터 칼과 도장을 받았으며, 최제우는 주문과 부적을 받아 그것으로 사람들을 가르쳐 신을 위하도록 하였다. 미키는 자기 자신이 하늘의 '쇼군(將軍)'이 되기도 하고, 또 그러한 쇼군을 섬기는 자가 되기도 하였다. 쇼군은 무사가운데 가장 높은 무사이다. 그녀는 스스로 인간을 구제할 수 있는 실용적이며, 현세이익적인 다양한 징표들을 만들어 제공했다. 그렇다면 이러한 신분적으로도 이상적으로도 신사 선비 무사였던 세 사람은 각자가 만든 종교에 어떠한 사상을 담았을까? 홍수전은 끊임없이 중국 내부로 관심을 돌리고 거기에 들어가 있는 악마적인 존재를 제거하고 평화를 이루는데 관심을 가졌다. 태평천국의 혁명 논리는 여기에서 나왔다. 최제우는 교인들을 가르치고 수양시키는데 관심을 가졌다. 그리고 새로운 시대가 개벽되었다고 선언하였다. 현실적으로 보이는 이익보다는 추상적인 사상에 집착하였다. 반면에 미키는 '인간'을 위한 구제를 선언하고 현실적인 이익을 제공하고자 하였으나, 그러한 이익은 오직 '우리 편' 혹은 '일본'에만 한정된 것으로 '타자'에 대해서는 배타적인 입장을 취했다. 아울러 그녀의 관심은 끊임없이 '외부'로 향했는데 그 외부는 정복하고 극복해야할 대상이었다.