• 제목/요약/키워드: System of official uniform

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조선시대 공신 초상(功臣肖像)의 관복(제2기) 고찰 (A Study on the Official Uniform (2nd period) of Meritorious Vassals' Portraits in the Joseon Dynasty)

  • 김미경;이은주
    • 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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    • 제53권3호
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    • pp.142-163
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    • 2020
  • 조선 전기 적개공신(1467, 1476 초상 제작)과 정국(1506)·정난공신(1507), 위사공신(1545) 초상까지를 아청색 흑단령 차림이 등장하여 정착하는 '관복 제2기' 공신 초상으로 규정하고 적개공신 손소, 오자치, 장말손 초상 3점, 그리고 정국·정난공신 유순정과 홍경주, 정국공신 이우와 유홍의 초상 4점, 총 7점을 대상으로 분석하였다. '예복 흑단령' 차림의 적개공신 초상의 사모는 성종 초 높아졌던 모체가 다시 낮아졌고 모정은 둥글게 표현되었다. 너비가 넓은 타원형의 사모 양각에 무늬는 표현되지 않았다. 아청색 단령과 답호, 철릭에도 무늬가 표현되지 않았다. 단답호와 철릭의 색상이 각각 녹색과 홍색으로 통일되었으며 단령과 답호의 무는 '안팎주름무'로, 신발은 백화로 표현되었다. 적개공신 초상은 책록 시의 품계가 아닌, 초상 제작 시의 품계로 그려졌음을 보여 주었다는 점에서 주목할 만하다. '시복 흑단령' 차림의 정국·정난공신 초상은 사모의 경우, 적개공신 초상에서 낮아진 사모 모체의 형태는 그대로 유지되었으나 모정 부분이 조금 좁아지고 앞으로 휜 형태로 변하였으며 사모 양각은 전체적으로 너비가 균일한 타원형으로 표현되었다. 그리고 전 시기와 마찬가지로 사모 양각에도 무늬가 표현되지 않았다. 당하관 초상의 복식에는 무늬가 표현되지 않았으나 당상관 초상의 복식에는 운문(雲紋) 등이 표현되기 시작하였다. 또 단령은 안감 없는 홑단령으로 표현되었다. 당상관 초상에서는 홍색 답호와 녹색 철릭을, 당하관 초상에서는 녹색 답호와 남색 철릭이 표현되었다. 따라서 당상·당하 신분에 따라 받침옷의 색상이 구별되었음을 알 수 있었다. 단령과 답호에는 '안팎주름무'가 그대로 유지되었다. 신발은 흑화로 표현되었으며 흉배와 품대는 공신 책록 당시의 품계가 반영되어 있었다. 한편 위사공신 초상은 확인할 수 없었으나 명종대의 기록화를 통해 중종대의 단령 제도와 유사함을 알 수 있었다. 이상으로 살펴 본 제2기 적개공신 공신 초상을 통해 흑단령 차림을 공신 초상의 관복으로 사용하기 시작하였다는 점, 공신 초상 제작 시기의 품계를 초상에 반영하였다는 점을 확인할 수 있었다. 정국공신 초상 이후 복식에 무늬가 표현되기 시작하였는데 특히 흑단령의 무늬 유무로 당상·당하를 구별할 수 있게 되었다. 그리고 표현된 관복 모습은 당시의 관복 규정이나 관행과 일치함을 확인할 수 있었다.

우리나라 양복수용 과정의 복식변천에 대한 연구-문화전파이론을 중심으로-

  • 이유경;김진구
    • 복식
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    • 제26권
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    • pp.123-143
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    • 1995
  • Clothing as one of elements of culture has been interwoven with cultural diffusion, and accompanied the most visible change. In this paper, it was focused that the process and the characteristics of western clothing adop-tion of Korea from 1876 to 1945 corelating with cultural diffusion theory. They were analyzed through the change of clothing reformation system by government, school uniform, and social phenomenon. The finding of this paper were as followings; 1. The process of western clothing adoption was forcibly demanded by Japan, therefore influenced by Japan. 2. The clothing reformation which was forced to accept western style was confronted by complex of cultural, psychological and economical resistance. 3. The fashion leaders of this period were Korean students studying abroad, diplomatic officials, members of the armed forces, government officials, students of western educational systemed school, and lady of evangelist. 4. Man adopted western clothing earlier than woman. 5. Western clothing adoption was took precedence in case of formal wear, diplomatic official's attire, military uniform, and school uniform. 6. In this process, we can find 'transculturation' by Malinowski and 'reinter-pretation' by Herskovits. 7. This process was a kind of 'reorientaion'. 8. The change of clothing which was affected by the tradition, for example, robe for the ancestral rites was evolutionary than others. 9. Clothing elements based on mental or internal characteristics like which clothing was hardly changed by compulsion or extortion. 10. The external trends of clothing change during this period were simplicity, utility, and decrease of status symbols.

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복식에 나타난 오행색 의미에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Meaning of the Five Elements Colours in the Costume)

  • 강윤숙
    • 복식
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    • 제20권
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    • pp.7-16
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    • 1993
  • Influnced by the official uniform system of China, the colour culture of Korea has changed with time. The ancient colour has included the philo-sophical conception as well as the meaning of thoughts. Forming its tradition, the colour has been accepted in usual life. The philosophy of the Five Element has been developed in the area of Oriental culture and it has influnced to the colour of costume. The five colours(blue, red, yellow, white and black) as the Five Elements colours have disticted the social position. Owing to the fackt, the colour costume has preserved the important meaning. In accordance with the theory of the Five Elements the five colours of costume told its purpose, social position and age. Moreover the relationship among the Five Elements, the direction and the reason have been applied to it with time. Yellow and red have been usually used by kings and high ranking officals, white has been the basic colour for traditional Korean clothes, which hs indicated the integrity symbolizing our race. The Five Elements Colours preserving the theory of Korean the Five Elements have been the conception of Korean traditional colour and they have been developing as the meaning of custom.

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근대(近代) 한국복식(韓國服飾)의 변화(變化) 요인(要因) (The Factors of Korean Costume's Change in the Modern Times)

  • 이명희
    • 복식
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    • 제5권
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    • pp.153-163
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    • 1981
  • Since Korea opened the door to the Western World, traditional costume has changed. The factors of change are as follows: 1) Cultural diffusion by the cultural contact is the foundamental factor of the costume change. 2) The government made edicts of clothing reform. The formal dresses of government official were simplified several times, the edict was issued for men to cut off their hair, and military uniform and government officials' dresses were west-ernized. 3) The diffusion of modernized education by the missionary school accerlerated clothing change. Students were ahead of the abolition of Suege-Chima (which is a sort of veil used to conceal woman's face). 4) The change in the activity of women in society made the women's dresses more convenient for action. 5) The open class system and social agitation speeded up the rate of change. During the Yi Dynasty class distinction was rigid, but the government made the laws which abolished the class distiction.

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미국 화훼류 품종보호제도 및 식물특허 운영실태 (Introduction of Plant Variety Protection Right and Plant Patent System of Ornamental Crops in U.S.A)

  • 이호선;최근진;황석중
    • 화훼연구
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    • 제16권4호
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    • pp.325-332
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    • 2008
  • 국내 화훼류 육성품종의 미국 출원에 대한 안내 및 미국 육성 품종의 국내 출원 시 품종보호심사에 활용하는 자료로 제공하고자 미국의 식물신품종보호제도와 식물특허에 대한 운영실태를 조사하였다. 미국은 신품종 대상에 따라 종자번식 품종과 괴경식물은 식물신품종보호법으로, 무성번식품종은 식물특허로 구별되어 보호를 받게 된다. 품종보호나 특허를 받기위한 조건은 신규성, 구별성, 균일성, 안정성이며, 과수나 묘목의 품종보호 보호기간은 25년이고 나머지 대상의 품종보호와 식물특허의 보호기간은 20년이다. 식물신품종보호와 식물특허의 심사 모두 재배심사나 현지심사를 하지 않고 출원인이 제출한 서류만으로 심사를 한다. 화훼류 출원은 영양체번식 품종의 식물특허 출원이 대부분이고 종자번식 품종의 품종보호 비율은 낮으며, 전체 식물특허 출원 중 화훼류가 87%를 차지하며, 자국과 외국간 출원 품종수에는 큰 차이가 없다.

발해와 신라의 복식 비교 연구 (The Study on Costume in Palhae and Shilla)

  • 전현실;유송옥
    • 복식
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    • 제50권6호
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    • pp.109-125
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    • 2000
  • As the result of the study of this thesis, the costume of Palhae and Shilla shows the many similarity. 1. The two centuries introduced the system of four-colored official uniform. This official uniforms are BokDoo(복두), DanLyung(團領) and Dae(帶). BanLyung of Palhae are GyulGoPo(결과포), leather belt and that of Shilla are GyulGoPo, YuLanPo(유란포), KwaDae(과대) Similarly BokDoo shows the long Gak(脚) in back. 2. Yu(유) and Ko(袴), the native costumes have worn even after the period of the three countries. 3. The two countries wore DanLyung. A man In Palhae wore GyulGoPo(결과포), leather belt and a man in Shilla wore GyulGoPo, YuLanPo(유란포), KwaDae(과대). 4. A woman in Palhae wore SangEui(上衣), Sang(裳), JikLyung(直領) one by one. And over Sang wrapped PoBaekDae(布帛帶) and covered the shoulder by UnGyun(雲肩). A woman in Shilla wore SangEui, Sang, PoBaekDea one by one and covered the shoulder by Pyo(표). 5. The two countries put on Rib(笠) and similary shoes. Rib insists of Moche(帽體), ChaYang(次養) and can classify the estate by decoration. A man wore Wha(靴), Li(履) and a woman wore KoDooLi(高頭履). This similarity is the result by the cultural interchange between Palhae and Shilla. There are the five reasons. Interchange by the envoy's visit. Interchange through Shillado(新羅道), Interchange in T'ang Dynasty, Interchange in Japan, Interchange of Buddhist culture. By the cultural interchange between Palhae(渤海) and Shilla(新羅), the shape of costume is similary. The meaning of this similarity of costume equals to the similarity of culture. We will approval Palhae is the co-subject of Korean history with Shilla and will name as "The period of NamBukKuk(南北國時代)" from the late 7th century to the early 10th century in the academy of the history of Korean Costume.

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대당$\cdot$대일본과의 교류관계를 통해 본 발해의 복식문화 연구 - 교류시 품목을 중심으로 - (The Study on the Costume of Parhae through the Exchange for Tang and Ancient Japan - focused on the Exchanged Items-)

  • 전현실;강순제
    • 복식
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    • 제55권4호
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    • pp.38-48
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    • 2005
  • This study is consider·ed about the relation or costume among Parhae, ancient Japan and Tang and the culture of this time commonly was influenced by Tang;s culture. The recorded items, which were exchanged from Parhae to Tang and ancient Japan, are the pelt of marten, seal, bear and tiger skin or Ammowhaha(암모화) Gu(구) and so on. Other items from Tang and ancient Japan to Parhae are various clothes and material like silk and so on. This Parhae's clothes made with leather obtained through hunting were the main product of Parhae and had been greatly famous in Tang and ancient Japan. At that time, Tang and ancient Japan had been only dependent on the agricultural life but had not been accustomed to the hunting life, and thereupon, the people in Tang and Nara Era had difficulties to get leather clothes. Accordingly, the leather products stood for the rich, and the people who purchased the leather products from Parhae were recognized as the rich. On the other hand, The prince and the royal family in Parhae were dispatched to Tang as Sooktwui(숙위). They paid a tribute to Tang and In return for it, Tang gave to Sookwui as well as to Parhae's envoys various items and clothes such as Po(포), belt(대), gold and silver Eodae(어대) and textile like a type of silk. These clothes were considered as the formal uniform like Kwanbok(관복) of Parhae. Specially, the time when Sookwui was sent to Tang rot-responded with the time when Tang gave formal uniform to Parhae's envoys. Therefore, we can confirm that the sending of Sookwui influenced to form uniform system of Parhae. In this exchange relation, there were several duplicated items showed, for example Po(포)-belt(대), Eui set(의일습), Eoeui(어의), Jobok(조복), Go(고). These items in Parhae were appeared in process of exchanging from Tang to Japan and from Tang to Parhae. At that time, the exchanges between Tang and Parhae were frequently active much more than those between Tang and Japan, and the acceptance of the culture from Tang was easier in Parhae than Japan in consideration of the geographical location. Therefore, those clothes could be understood as the items already used in Parhae and affected from Tang. These items in Parhae were appeared in process of exchanging from Tang to Japan and from Japan to Parhae. As a result, it is expected that the costumes, which Parhae took from Japan, are the same as those of Tang.

입목벌채 허가제도 개선에 대한 벌채허가 담당자와 벌채 실행자의 인식조사 (Study on the Recognition of Forest-Official's and Stakeholders's Toward Improvement of Tree Cutting Permit System)

  • 박경석;이성연;배상원;김민희;김현식;백경수;안기완
    • 한국산림과학회지
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    • 제100권2호
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    • pp.292-304
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    • 2011
  • 본 연구는 우리나라의 벌채제도와 외국의 벌채제도를 비교하여 입목벌채 허가제도 개선에 관한 시사점을 도출하는 한편, 벌채업무 담당 그룹(공무원)과 목재벌채 실행그룹(산림소유자, 벌채업자, 산림조합, 산림법인)을 대상으로 입목벌채 제도에 대한 인식 및 활성화 요인 등에 관한 설문조사를 실시하여 제도 개선에 필요한 기초 자료를 제공하고자 수행되었다. 독일과 일본의 벌채제도를 분석한 결과, 산림의 다양한 기능발휘를 저해 할 수 있는 개벌 면적은 축소하고 있는 추세이며, 벌채기준으로 획일적인 벌기령을 적용하지 않고 지역 산림여건을 감안하는 유연한 산림시업의 표준으로서 벌기령을 활용하는 한편, 벌채 후 갱신확보를 위해 지역에 맞는 적절한 갱신방법을 제시하는 벌채제도를 운용한다는 시사점을 도출하였다. 입목벌채 허가제도에 대한 인식 및 활성화 요인 등에 관해 벌채업무 담당 공무원 그룹과 목재벌채 실행그룹을 대상으로 한 설문조사 분석결과, 기준 벌기령은 벌채업무 담당그룹 만이 소나무(3.13)와 삼나무(3.05)의 벌기령이 적정하다는 인식을 보였고 기타 수종의 벌기령은 하향 조정해야 한다는 의견을 보였다. 개벌면적에 대해서는 1 벌구 5 ha 이내, 최대 합계면적 30 ha 한도 기준에 대해서는 벌채 업자와 산림법인 그룹만이 현행보다 확대가 필요하다는 인식을 나타냈다. 현행 벌채제도에 대한 활성화 요인으로는 벌채면적의 확대, 시설지원, 기술교육의 강화, 장비지원 확대, 행정 간소화, 다양한 혜택 부여 등이 제시되었는데, 기술교육 강화가 집단 간의 인식 차이에서 유의수준이 가장 낮게 나타났다.

고려시대 인물관련 제작물을 통해서 본 복식제도에 관한 연구(2)-고려시대 인물관련 제작 불화(佛畵)중 '경판화'를 통해서 본 복식제도에 관한 연구(2)-$\cicled3$- (A Study On the costume of the Koryo Dynasty (2)-$\cicled3$-See Through by the Human being, on the Buddist Painting of Koryo Dynasty Engraved Painting on the wood.-)

  • 임명미
    • 복식
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    • 제26권
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    • pp.221-232
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    • 1995
  • It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the one hundred and thirty four pictures of the engraved painting on the wood. The costume to study were made about 400 years during the King Mok-jong(1006) to the forth year of the king Wu based upon the Avatamaka Sutra and Pulsul-Yaesu 가) Men's wear 1. Hair style and hair dress ; Man tied up a top knot and they put on the hat such as a Kuan, Kun, and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knots. 2. Clothes : 1) King wore an uniform of Mien-lu Kuan system. 2) The Crown Prince and high rank officials wore Yuan-yu-Kuan Won-jung-po-ju-Kuan, Sa-bang-Kuan, Yun-wha-Kuan and montain shape Po-ju-Kuan as a court dress. 3) Officials put on the Pok-du as an official dress and Won-jung-ip-mo, Kun and Mo as an everyday dress, the monk put on the diamond shape Do-kuan and Du-kun and the soldier put on the Helmet. Costume system of man was as follows ; They wore exchanged shape collar, big sleeve jacket, long skirt, apron, hanging precious stone big belt as a Mien-pok. 4) The soldiers wore helmet, Keun-Kap, Scarf, Pee-Bak, Hung-Kap, Pok-Kap, Yang-Dang-Kap, We-Yo-Kap, Kum-Kap, and caries arms. Lower-level officials wore Pe-Bal, Kun-Mo, gae, won-leung, very small sleve jacket, a long coat reaching up to the knee length, slacks, belt, loin cloth and apron. 5) Children's bind their hair up angle shape and wore a half long jacket raching up to the hip and slacks. 나) Women's wear; 1. hair style and hair dress; 1) High rank women's hair style was very extravaganceful. They made their hair top knot (one, two, or more knots) and decoraed precious stone, pan shape head dress, wheel shape head dress, and flower shape precious stone decorated head dress. 2. Clothes ; 1) High rank ladi's wore Kun-Kyun attached jacket, and jacket sleeves decorated pleats, and pleats decorated long skirt, apron, back apron, knot belt, scarf, this type is the same with Dang Dynasty, five dynasty of china, Song, Kum, Won, Myung Dynasty, and our costume of Poe-hae, and Shilla Dyansty. 2) Official ladies wore exchange shape collor, big sleeve jacket, long pleats skirt, apron, and back apron, scarf. 3) Women wore top knot hair style and decorated by ribbons. Shoulder scarf attached small sleeve jacket and wore reaching up to the knee length. Side seam is open and under wear was long skirt. 4) High knot hair style and exchanged shape collor jacket, under wear wore long skirt. They wore under skirts and the jackets. 5) High knot hair style, exchange shape collor jacket reaching up to the knee length small sleeve under wear wore long skirt, belt. 6) High knot hair style, big sleeve jacket and long skirt. 7) Foot wear wore boots, mokasin type shoes, sandal.

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개항기 전통식 소례복 연구 (Study on the Evolution of the Traditional-Style Soryebok in Korean Modern Dress)

  • 이경미
    • 복식
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    • 제64권4호
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    • pp.162-175
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    • 2014
  • This study focuses on Korea's traditional-style soryebok, in terms of its foundation, progression, and structural features. The research methods employed here include literature analyses of relevant laws and an official daily gazette, and practical analyses of artifacts and photographic documents. Especially, the artifacts of heukdannyeong(black uniform for officials with a round neck) in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) were examined, which was regulated as soryebok in Eulmiuijegaehyeok. The term "soryebok" firstly appeared in "使和記略"(Sahwagiryak) written by Park Yeong-hyo, a foreign envoy to Japan, in 1882. Emperor's invitation written in the book asked him to wear daeryebok at the ritual and soryebok to the banquet. Soryebok was not adopted in Gapshinuijegaehyeok in 1884. However, several illustrated documents of the modern banquets at that time reveal that sabok, which was included in the 1884 reform, was used as soryebok. According to the Gapouijegaehyeok in December 1894, courtiers were required to wear heukdannyeong as daeryebok, and add juui(topcoat) and dapho(sleeveless coat) as tongsangyebok when they visited the royal palace. In Joseon's first daeryebok system, the term "tongsangyebok" that had been used in Japan was employed before soryebok was used. According to Eulmiuijegaehyeok in August 1895, the term "soryebok" originated from a costume ritual for courtiers of the Joseon Dynasty. Soryebok featured heokbannyeong chaksupo, samo (winged hat for officials), sokdae(belt), and hwaja (shoes for officials). There are around 24 artifact pieces of heukdannyeong in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) in the following locations: garments of Prince Heungwangun and Wansungun, the court artifacts, Korea University Museum, Yun Ung-ryeol's family housed at Yonsei University, and Kyungwoon Museum. Artifacts have mu(godet) pulled back and a topcoat-like triangular mu. In conclusion, heukdannyeong, traditional-style soryebok has significance in the history of modern dress because streamlined traditional clothes and newly introduced Western dress system were able to be combined.