• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.119-128
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to examine the military look, which is one of the most popular fashion trends in the 1996 women's fashion. Military look is that imitates or reinterprets the Army uniform which is functionally useful. After World War 1 , military look appeared in the women's fashion which is functionable tailor suits style, ankle-length skirt, pants or boiler suits for work wear, overcoat against the cold, and there was an attempt to introduce a National Standard Dress. In the middle of World War II, there was a similiar circumstance in women's military fashion. There were functionable tailor suits, knee-length skirt, pants or siren suits for work wear. And the Utility Dress was nationally recommended. In addition, the regulations were introduced to control the materials and styles used for some clothes. In the 70s, as the resistance movement as counterculture began to wear Army look which was army-uniform or army caps with 'US ARMY' logo and badges, and became very popular among the youth. In the 90s, military look has got one of the fashionable fashion themes with revival of Neo- Hippie look. Not only street fashion but also high fashion designer selected the trend for '96A/W The characteristics of the military look are khaki colors or camouflage prints, epaulets, big outpockets with flap, golden buttons and army belt. As I examined, during the World War I and ll, women wore the military look because of shortage of goods and work or service, and it was recommended by government. Though the military look in 70s, began by the resistance movement, at least it became a popular fashion. Military look in 90s, does not have inner symbolic meaning or ideology but it only represents fashion trend and revival fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.11
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• pp.1786-1797
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• 2010

This study investigates the historical formation and characteristics of modern Korean consumption culture by reviewing previous literature about consumption spaces and conspicuous consumption in modern Korea. This study examined the historical formation and characteristics of three different periods of time: from 1876 to 1919, from 1920 to 1936, and from 1937 to 1945. In addition, the current study reviews previous literature related to advertising, poems, novels, historical events, and Orientalism. Based on this, the historical characteristics were also analyzed. The overall results were as follows: The first period from 1876 to 1919 was the beginning of modern Korean consumption culture, in which exotic goods such as foreign fabrics were preferred and consumed. In addition, clothing was simplified and westernized through modern reform. The second period of time, 1920 to 1936, was the development stage of modern Korean consumption culture that formed the foundation of modern consuming spaces where the recognition of the human form became more modern, and 'modern girls' styles appeared. The final period, 1937 to 1945, was the regression stage of Korean modern consumption culture, in which consumption decreased during the Sino-Japanese War and World War II. The results of this study' conclude that the leading-consumer items hold symbolic value as well as became signifiers within modern consumption spaces such as modern Korean department stores and that women were recognized as modern leading-consumers as shown by the dramatic increase in the number of products that targeted women.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2001

This study is to reconsider the symbolic potential of the costume by investigating the role of cloth in Indian culture, noting the fact that Indians wore hand-woven cloth and adopted a flag with the spinning wheel in the center as part of their nationalistic programs for independence. The results are as follows; The Indian cotton industry had held the fist position in the world and spinning and weaving had been an Indian national industry until the early part of the 19th century. As for the Indian cotton industry under the rule of Britain, Indian was reduced to being a colony producing raw materials and a market of cheap British finished goods, and eventually fell into anarchy with economic poverty of the general public and peasants'uprising mixed with the complaint of the intellectuals. The Indian National Movement started as a resort to escape the British rule because of continuous poverty and social exhaustion, and its pivot was Gandhi. Gandhi launched a revolutionary noncooperation movement in Indian society with diverse races, religions and castes, and developed nation-wide campaigns such as Boycott, Swadeshi, the encouragement of spinning wheels, etc. Gandhi urged that Indians' weak identity and poverty were caused by the dissolution of their native craft and that the Indians should wear Indian products for economic independence. Accordingly, leaders of Indian National Congress regarded a spinning wheel as an economic necessity and national symbol, and approved manual spinning and weaving as part of their nationalistic programs in order to drew the general public to the nationalistic movement in 1920. They also decided that all Congressmen should wear hand-woven cloth, Khadi, and adopted spinning wheels as the logo type of Indian National Congress. Khadi, Indian national cloth, was a symbol of national unification, freedom and equality, and also a means of economic self-sufficiency, Swadeshi, and eventually led India to autonomy, Swaraji. Therefore, it can be concluded that the cloth converted Indias economic and political identity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.56-68
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• 2016

Popular culture has symbolic meaning and has been constructed through different mass media. Newspapers played a significant role in 1950s and 1960s public culture. In particular, editorial cartoons in newspapers expressed social aspects of the age implicitly through satire and criticism. This study examines delivered culture by reflecting the past social aspects and inquiring on clothing featured in the editorial cartoon "Gobau". As for a research method, literature research was conducted on clothing of the age with a review of "Gobau". As for a research range, examination was done based on the complete works of Gobau composed of 5 volumes published as a first edition by Hankookmunhwasa on November, 1973. Early "Gobau" cartoons from 1951-1963 were published in 5 volumes; therefore, research was conducted for the era from 1950s to the early 1960s. Clothing expressed in "Gobau" were reviewed, classified into formative characteristics and internal meaning. Internal meaning was examined by dividing into the expression of social aspects and criticism of society. The research findings are as follows. First, clothing in "Gobau" reflected characteristic in direct manner. There was a coexistence of Hanbok and western-styled, clear distinction between men's trousers and women's skirt. Besides, various kinds of women's western-styled dress appeared in the 1960s. Second, they showed the dress culture that reflected past social aspects. Many aspects were included to reconstruct old and worn clothes due to scarce resources after the Korean War, and cherishing clothes, buying fabric directly to making clothes, making clothes from dressmaking shop, and restrictions on imported goods and luxury items. Third, the study also examined the social norms for fashion. It contained negative perspectives on women wearing pants, short skirts, and new hair styles (like perms) from western culture as well as lipstick.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.112-124
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• 2011

Textile and clothing in Ancient Egypt have carried long history and tradition. Especially, Egyptian textile culture, created mostly by the Copt, has the originality of weaving technology and the artistic beauty of the weaving motifs, making the textiles comparable to modern textiles. The purpose of this study is to research on the characteristics of Coptic textile designs of ancient Egypt and the tunic, a basic garment made of Coptic textiles, and offer materials for the development of the textiles and designs with artistic values which can be shared in the modern era, not just for the research of the relics of the past. Therefore, this study will follow the historical background of Coptic textiles and the process of the development, and look into the distinct features under the categories of material, colors and motifs. In addition, the tunic and its weaving technology will be explained and this will help understand the originality of Coptic textiles. The scope of this study is limited to the period of the 3rd to 12th centuries when the Egyptian weaving technologies advanced dramatically and many of the ancient Egyptian textiles discovered from the grave goods dates back, the research methode of the tunic as well as books published at home and abroad, research paper and photograph works. The textiles had developed along the Egyptian history which was influenced by different cultures such as Greek, Roman, pagan, Christian, and later, Islamic. For the textiles, they used a variety of pictorial motifs including Greek goddesses, pastoral scenes related to the Nile River and animals, human figures, geometrical figures and Christian icons. They are symbolic, natural, and mythological characters, and this explains that the world views and religions of the weavers influenced the development of specific motifs. Coptic textiles was used to make a tunic, a simple straight-sided gown without sleeves worn by men and women and was woven in a combination of linen plain weave and woolen tapestry weave for a tunic. Not only the excellence of the weaving technologies and the beauty of the colors used in the textiles, but also the diversity of the textures through weaving, embroidery, and knotting are detected in Coptic textiles.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.137-151
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• 1993

This study presents an appraisal of current theorizing process through the review of family studies. Also it shows the outlines of five sociological general theories and how to apply them to family studies. The field of family studies entered a new stage in the middle of the twentieth century. Especially the decade of the 1970s was a period of rapid development in family theories because middle-range theories were developed. Currently identified major conceptual frameworks of family studies are five sociological general theories. Exchange theory was utilized in several studies and the problems could have been conceptualized in a way that would have tested the general theory of rewards, costs, and profits, but in most instances the theory was developed at a limited substantive level. Symbolic interactionism is the most useful in understanding precarious human relationships, such as courtship processes, intergenerational relationships family roles, and powers. General systems theory have been provided generalizaitons useful for understanding the characteristics of the family systems and also useful in describing the interactions with the environment, and the functioning of a family along a continuum of open to closed. Conflict theorists point that the basic units of society comprise all persons who share a sense of status equality and there are continual struggles in society for various goods. This theory attemps to account for the development within the family of norms of equity, or fairness. Phenomenology becomes available when we cease to treat an object as real, and begin to treat the object as meant, as intended, as it appears. Therefore the formulation of an adequate and complete description of family is important. Family theorists must be urged to do a number of things including continuing to improve existing theory and continuing to develop metatheory and methodologies of building theory.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.758-769
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to analyze the traditional embroidery in India by region based on Bourdieu's cultural theory. As the research methods for this study, literature and case studies were conducted. The results of the study are summarized as follows. First, India's regions could be divided into four distinct regions based on language and religion. The main concepts of Bourdieu's cultural theory, namely the sub-dimensions of field and habitus, were the field of social system, the field of goods & economy, the field of environment/region, culture, and ethnicity. Second, Eastern India's embroidery was influenced by Hinduism and traditional art. The embroidery used various fabrics such as the Applique work, and vivid colors and patterns were mainly used in the Hindu myths, animals, and flower patterns of the embroidery. Third, embroidery in Western India was influenced by exotic cultures like Persian due to geographical conditions, and embroidery via the use of gold threads and various ornaments was developed. Symbolized flower patterns and geometric patterns were used a lot in the respective embroidery. Fourth, embroidery in southern India was influenced by the Dravidian culture and their architectural style, which saw the emergence of an embroidery that used simple colored cross-stitch. Most of the patterns in this embroidery are geometricized. Fifth, Northern Indian embroidery has historically served as the center of power, resulting in an embroidery that uses various forms and materials. In this embroidery, flower patterns are mainly used. Finally, the characteristics of the traditional embroidery of India's each region is based on Bourdieu's cultural theory, which could be summarized as ethnic religiosity, exotic splendor, structural formality, and symbolic power.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.481-501
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• 2024

This study aims to analyze the traditional embroidery in Korea, China and Japan based on Pierre Bourdieu's cultural theory, habitus and field. We conducted literature and case studies examining the late Joseon Dynasty, Qing Dynasty, and Edo Period, respectively. Based on previous studies, we reviewed three fields: social systems, goods and economy, and environmental and regional. We also explored art, culture, and national tastes as habitus. We then examined each country's embroidery practices through these lenses, and the practice of habitus is as follows. We determined that traditional Korean court embroidery in the late Joseon Dynasty was characterized as controlled elegance, while private embroidery reflected earnest simplicity. During the Qing Dynasty, traditional Chinese court embroidery depicted sumptuous power, while private embroidery portrayed harmonious splendor. Finally, traditional Japanese embroidery in the Edo period reflected symbolic natural beauty and exaggerated comic beauty. As a result, Korea, China, and Japan have had a relatively close geographical location and a similar climate environment zone, and since ancient times, many cultures have been exchanged with each other. However, it seems that the characteristics of traditional embroidery have developed slightly differently due to the practice of habitus, which was caused by of the conspiracy of field and habitus of the three countries. The significance of this study is expected to explain the relationship between the birth and extinction of costumes and embroidery by establishing a systematic and objective framework for aesthetics research.

• Asia pacific journal of information systems
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.29-52
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• 2012

Consumers differ in the way they make a purchase. An audio mania would willingly make a bold, yet serious, decision to buy a top-of-the-line home theater system, while he is not interested in replacing his two-decade-old shabby car. On the contrary, an automobile enthusiast wouldn't mind spending forty thousand dollars to buy a new Jaguar convertible, yet cares little about his junky component system. It is product involvement that helps us explain such differences among individuals in the purchase style. Product involvement refers to the extent to which a product is perceived to be important to a consumer (Zaichkowsky, 2001). Product involvement is an important factor that strongly influences consumer's purchase decision-making process, and thus has been of prime interest to consumer behavior researchers. Furthermore, researchers found that involvement is closely related to perceived risk (Dholakia, 2001). While abundant research exists addressing how product involvement relates to overall perceived risk, little attention has been paid to the relationship between involvement and different types of perceived risk in an electronic commerce setting. Given that perceived risk can be a substantial barrier to the online purchase (Jarvenpaa, 2000), research addressing such an issue will offer useful implications on what specific types of perceived risk an online firm should focus on mitigating if it is to increase sales to a fullest potential. Meanwhile, past research has focused on such consumer responses as information search and dissemination as a consequence of involvement, neglecting other behavioral responses like online merchant selection. For one example, will a consumer seriously considering the purchase of a pricey Guzzi bag perceive a great degree of risk associated with online buying and therefore choose to buy it from a digital storefront rather than from an online marketplace to mitigate risk? Will a consumer require greater trust on the part of the online merchant when the perceived risk of online buying is rather high? We intend to find answers to these research questions through an empirical study. This paper explores the impact of enduring product involvement and perceived risks on required trust level, and further on online merchant choice. For the purpose of the research, five types or components of perceived risk are taken into consideration, including financial, performance, delivery, psychological, and social risks. A research model has been built around the constructs under consideration, and 12 hypotheses have been developed based on the research model to examine the relationships between enduring involvement and five components of perceived risk, between five components of perceived risk and required trust level, between enduring involvement and required trust level, and finally between required trust level and preference toward an e-tailer. To attain our research objectives, we conducted an empirical analysis consisting of two phases of data collection: a pilot test and main survey. The pilot test was conducted using 25 college students to ensure that the questionnaire items are clear and straightforward. Then the main survey was conducted using 295 college students at a major university for nine days between December 13, 2010 and December 21, 2010. The measures employed to test the model included eight constructs: (1) enduring involvement, (2) financial risk, (3) performance risk, (4) delivery risk, (5) psychological risk, (6) social risk, (7) required trust level, (8) preference toward an e-tailer. The statistical package, SPSS 17.0, was used to test the internal consistency among the items within the individual measures. Based on the Cronbach's ${\alpha}$ coefficients of the individual measure, the reliability of all the variables is supported. Meanwhile, the Amos 18.0 package was employed to perform a confirmatory factor analysis designed to assess the unidimensionality of the measures. The goodness of fit for the measurement model was satisfied. Unidimensionality was tested using convergent, discriminant, and nomological validity. The statistical evidences proved that the three types of validity were all satisfied. Now the structured equation modeling technique was used to analyze the individual paths along the relationships among the research constructs. The results indicated that enduring involvement has significant positive relationships with all the five components of perceived risk, while only performance risk is significantly related to trust level required by consumers for purchase. It can be inferred from the findings that product performance problems are mostly likely to occur when a merchant behaves in an opportunistic manner. Positive relationships were also found between involvement and required trust level and between required trust level and online merchant choice. Enduring involvement is concerned with the pleasure a consumer derives from a product class and/or with the desire for knowledge for the product class, and thus is likely to motivate the consumer to look for ways of mitigating perceived risk by requiring a higher level of trust on the part of the online merchant. Likewise, a consumer requiring a high level of trust on the merchant will choose a digital storefront rather than an e-marketplace, since a digital storefront is believed to be trustworthier than an e-marketplace, as it fulfills orders by itself rather than acting as an intermediary. The findings of the present research provide both academic and practical implications. The first academic implication is that enduring product involvement is a strong motivator of consumer responses, especially the selection of a merchant, in the context of electronic shopping. Secondly, academicians are advised to pay attention to the finding that an individual component or type of perceived risk can be used as an important research construct, since it would allow one to pinpoint the specific types of risk that are influenced by antecedents or that influence consequents. Meanwhile, our research provides implications useful for online merchants (both online storefronts and e-marketplaces). Merchants may develop strategies to attract consumers by managing perceived performance risk involved in purchase decisions, since it was found to have significant positive relationship with the level of trust required by a consumer on the part of the merchant. One way to manage performance risk would be to thoroughly examine the product before shipping to ensure that it has no deficiencies or flaws. Secondly, digital storefronts are advised to focus on symbolic goods (e.g., cars, cell phones, fashion outfits, and handbags) in which consumers are relatively more involved than others, whereas e- marketplaces should put their emphasis on non-symbolic goods (e.g., drinks, books, MP3 players, and bike accessories).

• Journal of Distribution Science
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• v.10 no.12
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• pp.25-34
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• 2012

Purpose - This study examines college students' perceived choice attributes in traditional markets and the relationship quality. We study the relationships between attributes that common people look for while choosing a store (e.g., product, service, advertising, and atmosphere), consumption emotion, consumer's value, and relationship quality. Research design, data, methodology - In order to verify the relationship between choice attributes and relationship quality, and moderating (i.e., consumption emotion) and mediating effects (i.e., customer value), we collected data from 202 consumers in Gyeonggi province to test the theoretical model and its hypotheses. For this purpose, this study, utilized an empirical methodology. Results - First, contrary to the previous research findings involving college students, this study observed that four factors of store choice attributes at a traditional market were important to consumers in heightening the relationship quality. Specifically, product (β = .608, p < .01), service (β = .351, p < .01), advertising (β = .237, p < .01), and atmosphere (β = .425, p < .01) are significantly related to relationship quality. Second, consumers selected product (β =. 521, p < .01) as the most important attribute. Atmosphere (β = .254, p < .01) and service division (β = .148, p < .05), in this order, are the other important factors in this regard. However, advertising (β = -.112, p = .100) is not statistically significant. To improve and develop the relationship quality with consumers, traditional markets should ensure supply of suitable products and goods, improve store atmosphere by modernizing facilities, and educate merchants to improve their services. Third, the results of the moderating effects, although marginally statistically significant, suggest that for the consumers with low consumption emotion for traditional markets, an affirmative experience of products and store atmosphere heightens their values. In addition, the consumers having low consumption emotion who could promote consumer values were found to improve and develop a marginally significant relationship quality. Finally, the study revealed that the consumer's value exhibited a complete mediation effect in the relationships between service and relationship quality, and advertising and relationship quality and a partial mediation effect in the relationships between product and relationship quality, and atmosphere and relationship quality. Conclusions - Consumer satisfaction is important to increase the competitiveness of traditional markets, and products and store atmosphere are important attributes to increase the relationship quality. Specifically, merchants should supply different products, modernize their facilities, and improve store atmosphere to compete in traditional markets. In addition, traditional markets should provide value and competitive prices to attract consumers, and should maximize the consumer's value and promote the consumption emotion. Traditional markets should evolve to accommodate changes in the consumer's value and invest in not only functional elements but also symbolic elements.