• Toxicological Research
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.131-136
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• 2019

Ethylhexyl dimethyl para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) is an oily yellow liquid derivative of water-soluble PABA commonly used in sunscreen. Ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA is widely used as an ingredient in many cosmetics at an average concentration of 1.25% (0.5-2.0%) in Korea. Previous studies, including those involving animals, have demonstrated that ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA is toxic to the following four organs: testis, epididymis, spleen, and liver. In addition, experiments using human keratinocytes found that ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA inhibits cell growth and DNA synthesis at low concentrations, and halted the cell cycle of MM96L cells (human melanoma cell line) at the G1 phase. Despite limited clinical data in humans, many studies have confirmed increased mutagenicity of ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA following exposure to sunlight, which suggests that this molecule is likely to contribute to onset of sun-induced cancer despite protecting the skin through absorption of UVB. For risk assessment, the no observed adverse effect level (NOAEL) chosen was 100 mg/kg bw/day in a 4 weeks oral toxicity study. Systemic exposure dosage (SED) was 0.588 mg/kg bw/day for maximum use of ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA in cosmetics. Based on the risk assessment and exposure scenarios conducted in this study, the margin of safety (MOS) was calculated to be 180.18 for a sunscreen containing 8% ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, which is the maximum level allowed by the relevant domestic authorities.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.199-208
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• 2019

This study reports water-resistant oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion-based sunscreening formulations prepared using a poly(ethylene glycol)-poly(${\varepsilon}$-caprolactone)-poly(ethylene glycol) (PEG-PCL-PEG) triblock polymeric surfactant. As a result of a variety of outdoor recreational activities such as swimming and hiking, consumer needs for development of advanced water-resistant sunscreen formulations are increasing. Water-resistant sunscreens are mostly based on water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions, because they should not be wiped off by water or sweat. However, the W/O emulsion formulations have a disadvantage in that the feeling of use is oily and difficult to remove. On the other hand, the O/W emulsion formulations are excellent in achieving the better skin feel as well as the easier removal. However, it is difficult to provide the O/W emulsion formulations with the water-repelling performance, since re-emulsification likely occurs upon getting touch with water. To solve this problem, this study proposes a O/W emulsion-based sunscreen formulation, a triblock polymeric surfactant having relatively high interfacial tension HLB value (~ 10). This allows the sunscreen formulations to exhibit the improved water repellence function by preventing their re-emulsification. The sunscreen formation system prepared in this study would be useful for diversification of functional sunscreen products, taking advantages of its excellent emulsion stability, UV protection performance, long lasting water-resistant function and selective cleansing effect with only foam cleanser.

• Analytical Science and Technology
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.79-87
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• 1998

Consumers have recently preferred to purchase extensive UV intercepting products, which are waterproof and free from side effects on skin. During the testing of cytotoxicity (in-vitro) in neutral red (NR) method, cell survival ratio of UV-B interceptors decreased to just above 0.08 w/v%, and it was observed that the UV-A interceptors the ratio also decreased to just above 0.06 w/v%. In addition patch-tests of inorganic UV interceptors resulted in no skin irritation even below 10.0 and 11.25. In absorption curves, UV-B was most suitable for octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) and UV-A for butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane (BMDM). For this reason, $Nylonpoly^{TM}$ UVA/UVB the material of OMC and BMDM coated with Nylon & polyethylene, was used as the organic UV interceptor. Zinc oxide (ZnO) and titanium dioxide ($TiO_2$) was used as inorganic UV interceptors. The appropriate mixture ratio of ZnO and $TiO_2$ was 6 to 4:6% of ZnO, 4% of $TiO_2$ and 5% of $Nylonpoly^{TM}$ UVA/UVB were all combined and added to our sunscreen cream. The SPF value of in-vitro was 38.9. In practical application, each sun protection factor (SPF) duration of oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion and water-in-silicone (W/S) emulsion containing sunscreen cream of the same content showed that W/S type of sunscreen cream was 5 times as durable as the other. Therefore, this product is fit for use in swimming, climbing or skiing. This research is to minimize skin trouble caused by UV interceptors and to make one with proper softness, skin safety and UV intercepting efficiency.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.1138-1150
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• 2020

In this study, an experiment was conducted to develop a sunscreen with antioxidant effects by simultaneously investigating the antioxidant and UV protection capabilities of various plant extracts. First, to investigate the UV-blocking ability of 33 kinds of plant extracts, the absorbance spectrum between the UV wavelength of 280 to 400 nm was investigated. Arrowroot, graviola, wheat sprout, sangbaek skin, thorn meal, lacquer, etc. 11 species were selected. The total polyphenol content, total flavonoid content, and DPPH radical scavenging activity of the selected plant extracts are measured to examine the degree of antioxidant activity, and from this, it is a plant extract that has excellent UV protection and antioxidant activity at the same time. The species was selected. A gel-shaped cream is prepared by mixing the selected gold, hops, and licorice extracts in a ratio of 1:1:1, and the UV protection effect of this cream is measured when the cultured cells are irradiated with UV rays. Determined by the method. As a result of the study, it was confirmed that the selected mixture of plant extracts complemented each other in terms of ultraviolet absorption ability and increased cell damage protection effect. Through these results, it was confirmed that it was possible to develop a sunscreen with an antioxidant effect if the antioxidant and sunscreen capabilities of various plant extracts were determined at the same time.

• Applied Chemistry for Engineering
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.532-538
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• 2020

In this study, emulsification process were conducted to manufacture the natural sunscreen from raw materials such as shea butter, olive emulsifier wax, and green tea extract. The emulsification was optimized by using the central composite design model-response surface methodology (CCD-RSM) where the response values were established as the mean droplet size (MDS) and emulsion stability index (ESI) after 7 days in addition to UV absorbance at 300nm. The amount of emulsifier and additives and emulsification time were established as operating variables and the optimal conditions of sunscreen emulsification were accepted as 3.70, 2.47 wt.%, and 15.42 min, respectively according to the result of CCD-RSM. On the other hand, the response values were estimated as 1173.80 nm and 99.56% for MDS and ESI, respectively, after 7 days, in addition to UV absorbance at 300 nm (2.47). The average error from actual experiments was a low level as about 3.0 ± 1.5%, which is mainly due to the fact that the optimization using CCD-RSM applied in this study was in the relatively high significant level.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.97-97
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• 2003

Chemists must take into consideration more factors to formulate with inorganic sunscreens than many other active ingredients including organic sunscreens. Because the UV radiation attenuation grade particles of Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide are in the nanometer range, the state of their dispersion in the product film on the skin governs their efficacy and aesthetics.(omitted)

• Journal of the Korean Chemical Society
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• v.67 no.1
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• pp.68-71
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• 2023

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.577-584
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• 2012

The simultaneous analysis of sun screen agents in commercial cosmetic samples was carried out by High Perfomance Liquid Chromatography(HPLC). The cosmetic samples are directly dissolved in Tetrahydrofurane(THF) and filtered using $0.45{\mu}m$ filter. The water/methanol/THF was used for the mobile phase of gradient conditions. An Extend C18 reversed-phase column and the selected UV/Visible detector was applied. The analysis results of HPLC showed good linearity with correlation coefficient of $r^2$=0.9992 in the rage of $50{\sim}800{\mu}g/mL$ and detection limit of $0.01{\mu}g/mL$.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.38-44
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• 1998

The skin permeation and the skin primary irritation of two UV filters from caprylic capryl triglyceride (oil), oil in water (O/W) and water in oil (W/O) emulsions, were evaluated. We selected octyl moth-oxycinnamate (OMC) broadly used in cosmetics and polymeric sunscreen agent (PSA, average MW: 2,000) synthesized by the coupling reaction of 2-ethylhexyl 4-hydroxycinnamate with poly vinylbenzyl chloride, as model UV filters. For in vitro skin permeation experiments, Franz diffusion cells (effective diffusion area:1.766cm) and the excised skin of female hairless mouse aged 8 weeks were used. Oil or emulsion containing UV filters was applied in the donor compartment. The skin primary irritation was evaluated with fe-male guinea pigs (8-10 weeks,350-400 g). In oil and emulsions, the skin permeability and the skin primary irritation of PSA were lower than those of OMC. The skin permeability of UV filters was lower when they were in oil-in-water emulsion (OIW) than water-in-oil emulsion (W/O). We suggest that O/W system would be more useful when compared with W/O system, and PSA could be a good candidate for a future sunscreen agent for reducing the skin irritation.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.3
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• pp.247-258
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• 2023

This study aims to investigate the enhancement of water resistance and improvement in adhesion to the skin by combining dextrin palmitate and isopropyl titanium triisostearate coating materials with titanium dioxide. Due to the recent increase in consumers who enjoy outdoor activities, the demand for sunscreen with excellent water resistance is increasing. Prior research was conducted with O/W, Pickering, and W/O/W multiple formulations, but there was a limit to water resistance. The purpose of this study is to develop a complex inorganic powder that can improve water resistance and increase adhesion to the skin to solve this problem. First, we combined dextrin palmitate and isopropyl titanium triisostearate coating materials to form a composite with titanium dioxide. The coating of the inorganic powder was confirmed using FE-SEM and FT-IR analysis. The composite exhibited significantly higher in vitro water resistance compared to other formulations. The hydrophobicity of the coated inorganic powder was compared by measuring the contact angles. When the coated inorganic powder was applied to the W/O sunscreen formulation and the non-coated inorganic powder was applied to the W/O sunscreen formulation as a control, the SPF of the sunscreen containing the coated inorganic powder was higher. These results were the same when observed with a UV camera. Finally the adhesion of the coated inorganic powder to the skin was assessed by applying it to a foundation product. In vivo study, it was observed that the product formulated with the coated powder exhibited less smudging compared to the foundation product formulated with the non-coated powder. The developed inorganic powder in this study demonstrated excellent adhesion to the skin, providing a superior sensory experience, as well as enhanced hydrophobicity and remarkable water resistance effects. In the future, the result of this study is expected to help develop various sunscreen products to improve water resistance.