• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.1107-1115
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• 1996

An investigation made of the easing contraction ratio according to sewing condition (seam line; wp, wf, 45$^{\circ}$ bias, stitch density; 13 stitch/cm (0.8 mm), 9 stitch/cm (1.1 mm), 6.5 stitch/ cm (1.5 mm), 5 stitch/cm (2 mm), 4 stitch/cm (2.5 mm), thread; sp 60$^{\circ}$s/2, sp 60$^{\circ}$s/3, st 60$^{\circ}$s/3, st 50$^{\circ}$s/3)) by lockstitch industrial sewing machine with shirring foot. The correlations of the easing and sewing conditions were by SPSS PC), and visual test was done by enlarged photo. The results obstained were as follows:. 1. The easing contraction ratio is increased in proportion to the low of stitch density. 2. The easing contraction ratio of wp, 45$^{\circ}$ bias is correlated with stitch density, and that of wf be with stitch density, elongation & weight. 3. The easing contraction ratio of 13 stitch/cm (0.8 mm), 9 stitch/cm (1.1 mm), 6.5 stitch/ cm (1.5 mm), 5 stitch/cm (2.0 mm) is correlated with flexible rigidity, and that of 4 stitch/ cm (2.5 mm) be with flexible rigidity and crease-resistance. 4. As a results of SPSS PC+ statistics, the easing contraction ratio is statistically correlated to the seam line, stitch density, upper thread tension, and fabric characteristics. 5. As a results of visual test by the enlarged photo, the limit of stitch density for easing contraction was 5 stitch/cm (2.0 mm).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Industry Convergence
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.47-52
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• 2013

Aim of this study is to investigate the dimensional and shrinkage characteristics of the weft knitted fabrics with Polylactic acid(PLA) knitted yarn. This PLA knitted yarn was made of the biodegradability fiber. The structure of weft knitted fabrics that was utilized for this study is the plain stitch, which is the most basic structure among all weft knitted fabrics. As the stitch length is shorter, the stitch density, courses density, and wales density are more increasing. The stitch density increased as pre-treatment process and dyeing process progressed. On the contrary, the heat setting process made it decreasing. The MR(Machine Relaxation) and DR(Dry Relaxation) standard area shrinkage were increasing as wet process progressed and as the stitch lengths are long.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.57-64
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• 2013

As the clothing materials have been more functional and advanced, the cotton fabrics for dress shirts or blouses have been more qualified and the sewability for high degree of completion has been required. This study aims to identify the seam strength depending on the change of stitch density of fine cotton fabrics by fabric and thread and so the general seam performance of fine cotton fabrics by analyzing the seam efficiency and breaking mode of seams. For an experiment, 3 kinds of fine cotton fabrics and 2 kinds of threads were selected and the sample was made by changing the stitch density by four steps. Then, the seam strength was measured. Next, the seam efficiency and breaking mode of seams were analyzed on the basis of the results of seam strength measurement. The results are as follows: All fabrics showed the similar tendency in seam strength. The seam strength is related to the tensile strength and thread strength, it increased only to a certain stitch density. When the stitch density exceeded a certain level, fabrics were destroyed or threads were cut. Then, the seam strength didn't increase. Furthermore, the more the seam strength increased, the more the seam efficiency increased. For increasing the maximum stitch density, it was required to use the fabrics and threads which had similar properties, in other words, the high thread strength for the high tensile strength and the low thread strength for the high tensile strength.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.990-995
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• 2011

This study analyzed the effects of the knit stitch type, fiber composition, and yarn thickness on the mechanical properties of knitted fabric. The results were as follows: The course density was the highest in the case of the rib stitch. On the other hand, the wale density was the highest in the case of the float stitch. The thickness was the highest in the case of the rib stitch. The same results were obtained even for different fiber compositions and yarn thicknesses considered in this study. The burst strength of wool knit fabric was higher than that of A/W knit fabric. The stiffness was the lowest in the case of the plain stitch. The same results were obtained even for different fiber compositions and yarn thicknesses. The pilling properties were excellent for all knit stitches, fiber composition, and yarn thicknesses as pilling degree : 5. The air permeability decreased in the following order : rib > plain > float stitch. The same results were obtained even for different fiber compositions and yarn thicknesses. The heat retention rate decreased in the following order : rib > float > plain stitch. The same results were obtained even for different fiber compositions and yarn thicknesses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.710-717
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• 1997

An investigation made of fabric strength & elongation and the lock stitch seam strength & elongation by stitch density (N1.5; 26 stitches/3 cm, N2.0; 19 stitches/3 cm, N2.5; 14 stitches/3cm) depending on methods of. sample prepariation (angle variations of unseamed sample and overlapping way of seamed sample) It found maximum stitch density that results of the seam strength test was highist in each angle of bias. The results obstained were as follows: 1. As the results of fabric strength and elongation tests as a function of angle of bias, breaking strength were that warp and weft angles (0$^{\circ}$, 90$^{\circ}$) were much higher than bias angles (20$^{\circ}$, 30$^{\circ}$, 45$^{\circ}$, 60$^{\circ}$) . And otherwise breaking elongation were that 45$^{\circ}$ angle of bias were highest and were that the warp & weft way were lower. 2. As the results of the seam strength tests by the stitch density under samples of same angles, the maximum stitch density were those; under 0$^{\circ}$/0$^{\circ}$, 60$^{\circ}$/60$^{\circ}$:F1, F2-N2.0, F3-N1.5, under 20$^{\circ}$/20$^{\circ}$, 30$^{\circ}$/30$^{\circ}$, 45$^{\circ}$/45$^{\circ}$: F1-N2.5, F2-N2.0, F3-N1.5, under 90$^{\circ}$/90$^{\circ}$: F1, F2, F3-N1.5. 3. As the results of the seam strength tests by the stitch density under samples of symmetry angles, the maximum stitch density were those; under 20$^{\circ}$/-20$^{\circ}$, 30$^{\circ}$/-30$^{\circ}$, 60$^{\circ}$/-60$^{\circ}$: F1, F3-N1.5, F2-N2.0, under 45$^{\circ}$/-45$^{\circ}$: F1, F2-N2.0, F3-N1.5.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.5 s.114
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• pp.1-11
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to analyze and minimize structural error between sample knitting and actual knitting in weft knitting apparel. Basic stitches used in this study were plain stitch, $0{\times}0$ rib stitch, $1{\times}1$ rib stitch, $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, Milan rib stitch. They were knitted into two different gauges(7 and 12 gauge) and 6 different sample sizes by computer program. The weight, length and width of these 5 basic knitting stitches were measured and their changes according to gauge, stitch and knitting were calculated and analyzed. The results were as follows; The weight of $0{\times}0$ rib stitch was the largest, followed by Milan rib stitch, $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, plain stitch and $1{\times}1$ rib stitch. As the density of stitch per unit area increases, the weight increases. The length of $0{\times}0$ rib stitch was the largest, followed by plain stitch, $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, $1{\times}1$ rib stitch and Milan stitch in both 7 and 12 gauge. As the number of course increases, the length increases accordingly. However, its increase ratio shows higher than that of number of course. It means that the reduction in number of course is needed to get aimed length. The width of Milan rib stitch was the largest, followed by $0{\times}0$ rib stitch, plain stitch, $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, $1{\times}1$ rib stitch in 7 gauge. In 12 gauge, Milan stitch, plain stitch and $0{\times}0$ rib stitch were the highest, followed by $2{\times}2$ rib stitch and $1{\times}1$ rib stitch. It showed that the change in shape of stitch influenced on the width more than the length of stitch.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.457-463
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• 2018

This study examined the water absorption and drying properties of the thirteen types of the knitted fabrics for sports wear. These physical properties were analysed with relation to the constituent fiber cross-sectional shape and structure parameters of the knitted fabrics by regression analysis. Absorption and drying properties of the knitted fabric specimens were increased with increasing the porosity of the constituent yarns, which was attributed to the capillary channels in the yarns. The water absorption and drying properties were increased and decreased with increasing tightness factor and stitch density of the knitted fabric. The absorption property of the knitted fabric for perspiration absorption and fast dry sport-wear clothing was mostly influenced mostly by fiber cross-sectional shape and its characteristics, whereas, drying property was dependent on the structural parameters of the knitted fabric such as tightness factor and stitch density. Therefore, superior perspiration absorption and fast drying knitted fabric could be obtained in the fabric structure with optimum tightness factor and stitch density, and constituent yarn structure with non-circular fiber crosssection and high porosity. GATS method and MMT method are used to measure sweating fast drying properties and it is necessary to carry out studies using these measurement methods in order to compare with the results of this study.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.597-605
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• 2019

This paper examined the garment formability and appearance of perspiration absorption, fast dry, and breathable fabrics. The mechanical properties and seam pucker properties of these fabrics were measured and regression analysis was conducted between fabric structural parameters and their mechanical and seam pucker properties. The superior total appearance value (TAV) of fast dry knitted fabrics for sports-wear was achieved in fabrics with high extensibility and bending rigidity; consequently, it increased with increasing stitch density and tightness factor. The formability of the fast dry knitted fabric also improved with an increasing stitch density and tightness factor. The seam pucker was influenced by bending rigidity and a good seam pucker was exhibited in the fast dry knitted fabrics with low stitch density and tightness factor. However, the formability (F) of the breathable fabric improved by increasing extensibility and bending rigidity that decreased with an increasing cover factor and the thickness of the breathable fabric. In addition, seam pucker deteriorated with an increasing cover factor and the thickness of the breathable fabric, which was similar to the results of the formability predicted in fabric mechanical properties. A superior seam pucker was achieved in fabrics with high extensibility and low bending rigidity.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.25-30
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• 2001

In order to investigate the influence of thread tension on the structure of lockstitch seam, stitch tightness and seam balance ratio are measured at various tensions of needle thread and bobbin thread. The structure of lockstitch was shown in terms of skeleton stitch models to obtain quantitative analysis of stitch tightness. The balanced seam formed to the rectangu1ar stitch model under low bobbin thread tension, but the fabric tightness produced by interlaced needle and bobbin thread under high bobbin thread tension. In this paper, new equation to obtain seam balance ratio was proposed for a lockstitch seam. By using the new equation, the seam balance ratio was not affected by the stitch density and fabric thickness. In order to form the balanced seam, the ratio on tension of needle thread and bobbin thread was about 6:1~7:1 in this experiment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Industry Convergence
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.337-343
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• 2000

Physical properties of matt georgette knitted fabrics, which has been developed recently, were investigated to provide fundamental information for the textile industry. Dimensional characteristics were examined with three different loop lengths, where the plain knitted fabrics were knitted with cotton yam and polyester yarn. The matt georgette plain knitted stitch was fully relaxed after wet relaxation treatment at $130^{\circ}C$ for 30minutes and subsequent tumble dry treatment at $70^{\circ}C$ for 90minutes. As the treatment temperature of wet relaxation became higher and the loop length did shorter, all of stitch density, course density and wale density were increased with 31 of $K_1$ 8.3 of $K_2$ and 3.8 of $K_3$. Also, The higher value of $K_4$ could be obtain with shorter loop length. When the loop length became longer, the $K_4$ value was varied in a wide range with the treatment of wet relaxation and subsequent tumble dry.