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A Study on Women's Underwear Structures by Ideal Beauty - Focused on the Former Period of 20th Century - (이상미에 따른 여성 속옷 구성에 관한 연구(1) - 20세기 전기를 중심으로-)

  • 김지연;전혜정
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.53 no.3
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    • pp.137-154
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    • 2003
  • The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women's status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1910's, ideal beauty has changed to H-style. In other words, the outer garment has confined the lower part of the body with plain H-type Hobble silhouette to express plump bust, somewhat slim waist, and small hips, As the underwears, cylindrical corsets which fasten from under the bust down to lap, brassiere which are helpful for plump bust, and artificial busts were worn. In 1920's, outer garment were Straight box silhouette style which were cut as tubular without dart, and the underwears were corselets which have been tubular from the bust to hip and the tubular chemi-knickers. The former corsets which had been hard-boned and been fastened with strings have been replaced by the hook closure due to the development of elastic joining method. In 1930's, women pursued perfect body showing the line of bust, waist, and hip. In order to express elegant beauty of female of Slim and long silhouette, Doter and underwear have been cut with bias and gore, and soft and flexible materials were flowed along the body. World war II in 1940's has made the women as social. Ideal beauty has changed to Short straight box silhouette which no more shows body line. Outer and underwears were simple and Practical style. In 1950's, ideal beauty was well-matured, elegant Women which were represented by round shoulder, conical breast, tiny waist and round hip. Outer garment showed Hourglass silhouette representing the body-tight suits with round shoulder pad and the wide flare skirts. As the underwears, conical brassiere by top circular stitch were preferred for plump and bulged bust and tight corsets for tiny waist and magnificent petticoats were worn.

The Consideration and Historical Research of Joseon Ladies' Attire in the 15th Century by Analyzing Excavated Costumes and Presents for Lady Han, Gongsin-buin (공신부인(恭愼夫人) 한씨(韓氏)에게 전달된 물품 및 출토복식 분석을 통한 15세기 조선 사대부 가 여성복식 고찰과 착장고증)

  • Choi, Jeong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.66 no.7
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    • pp.171-191
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    • 2016
  • Lady Han, Gongshin-buin(恭愼夫人韓氏: 1410~1483) was Gongnyeo of Ming emperor and sister of Han Hwak(韓確:1400~1456). The aim of this study is to analyze the characteristic of costume presents for Lady Han, and to investigate a part of Joseon women's attire in the 15th century. Most of the presents for Lady Han were native products of Joseon to help alleviate her homsickness, but surviving relics are very rare. The costume-related presents included daily accessories and fabrics such as natural ornaments, embroidered pouch, needle case, wig, wooden comb, portable knife with multi-blades, various colored plain silk [綿紬] and ramie. Also, preceding research analysis of costume relic were combined with study of presents for Lady Han's. The most salient costume of Joseon women in the 15th century was the symmetric collared jacket. In addition, ornamented jeogori, pouch with pine nut stitch, chima, jangot, jangsam, black veil[羅兀] made with ra or jeung, glass beads, paintings of Ming and Joseon can be references. Illustrations show 6 representative type of Joseon women's full attires in the 15th century are as follows. First, is a combination of 'symmetric collared jacket with peacock rank badge, jeoksam, chima, underwear' and 'hoa-a, janga-a, embroidered pouch, needle case, knife with multi-blades: presents for Lady Han'. Second, formal wear focusing on symmetric collared Jacket of cloud pattern. Third, formal wear focusing on multicolor ornamented jeogori. Fourth, town wear with jangot and neoul. Fifth, formal wear with jangsam. Sixth, daily wear focusing on banbi with symmetric squre collar. Accessories and underwear shown in another illustration were same as the first illustration. Results of this study can be used as content for making historically accutate costumes as well as costume education.

Mobile Panorama System via 3D Model Reconstruction (3차원 모델 재구성을 통한 모바일 파노라마 시스템)

  • Kim, Jin-Hee;Choy, Yoon-Chul;Han, Tack-Don;Lim, Soon-Bum
    • Journal of Korea Multimedia Society
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    • v.14 no.8
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    • pp.1094-1107
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    • 2011
  • We can use panorama systems or image based modeling systems when we want to make 3D space model and look around result. Panorama systems make 3D model to stitch images and map cylinder or cube. The structure of 3D model, made by panorama system, is not same as structure of a real room, so user can't infer a real structure. Typically, Image based modeling systems work on a desktop computer. That makes it difficult to reconstruct 3D model in real time and take long time for processing. In this paper, we propose a 3D panorama modeling system that uses images on a mobile device. This system reconstructs a 3D space model, similar with a real room in real time, from multiple images captured part of rooms. Using this system, user can reconstruct various shape of space and look around a 3D space model.

Phenomena of Mixture in High.Low Class Culture in Contemporary Knit Fashion (현대 니트패션에 나타난 상.하위문화의 혼합특성)

  • Park, Moon-Hee;Lee, Youn-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.61 no.4
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    • pp.38-51
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    • 2011
  • The purpose of this study is to offer data that designers can utilize substantially, by developing creative materials in knit fashion through the analysis relevant to expression characteristics on the mixture in high low class culture, which were shown in knit fashion of contemporary women, as one of methods of pursuing a plan for being able to be appeared creative and unique knit wear. As for a method of this research, studied concept and characteristics on the mixture in high low class culture by preceding researches. And women's knit fashion was selected that is seen to be 3~18 gauge among the world's 4 collections from 2000~2008. The analysis was made with the analytical frame in mixture pattern, and the analytical frame in design element, and item. The results are as follows. The mixture of kidult element and high fashion was shown with characteristic of expressing humor and fun with graffiti, expression like character and cartoon, and fairy-tale fantasy through the exaggerated trifling article. The mixture of grungy element and high fashion was shown with the expression characteristic in the mixture of heterogenous pattern, and in tear, slit without the end treatment due to fraying the end strand in the knit fashion with basic stitch, patch work, fringing and tone-down gray, use of khaki and blue color, and match in opposite color. The mixture of underwear and high fashion was shown the expression characteristic with the emphasis on underwear line like volume up, or with the mixture of details such as pants in diverse lengths, mini skirt, underwear lace, and ribbon.

A Study on Excavated Costume of the Bae's Clan of Seong-san - Focused on Analysis on Features of Sewing Observed in Po(Coat in Korea in the Past) - (성산 배씨 문중 출토복식에 관한 연구 - 포(袍)에 나타난 봉제구성법의 특징 분석을 중심으로 -)

  • Lee, Sang-Eun;Lee, Dong-A
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.11 no.1
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    • pp.133-153
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    • 2009
  • Clothing was excavated when the Bae's clan of Seong-san, Yeong-dong, Chung-buk in Sep. 2, 2004. The tombs that the clothing could be restored were the tombs of Bae Cheon-jo(10th generation) and the tomb of Mrs. Nam of Go-seong, the wife of Bae Sang-gyeong(1lth generation). For identifying the features and methods of sewing used for the clothing of man and woman around Po(coat in Korea in the past) in the 16th to 17th century, this study investigated 12 items from Bae Cheon-jo's tomb(Sibok, Dopo(robe), Jungchimak(outer coat with large sleeves) and Gwa-du and 5 items(Jangok(lady's cloak) and Jungchimak) from Mrs. Nam's tomb of Go-seong. For sewing, broad-stitching, hemming and even-back-stitching were used the most in that order. Furthermore, various kinds of sophisticated stitching including old flat felled seam, decorative saddle stitching and buttonhole stitch, clothing made roughly as a shroud and fabric attached on the clothing were also observed. We may not have many opportunities to understand the change of clothing in Korea from mid 16th century to mid 17th century through the clothing of father-in-law and daughter-in-law in a family. As a result, we will be able to understand the features of sewing in a family and from the 16th century to the 17th century.

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The suture method using ribbon shaped knot in pediatric facial lacerations (소아 안면 열상 시 리본 모양 매듭법을 이용한 봉합법)

  • Sung, Hyoung Woo;Kim, Jin Woo;Shin, Han Kyung;Jung, Jae Hak;Kim, Young Hwan;Sun, Hook
    • Archives of Plastic Surgery
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    • v.36 no.1
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    • pp.122-125
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    • 2009
  • Purpose: Stitching out in facial simple laceration on children, we use No.11 blade. But the procedure is technically demanded to take care of the uncooperative pediatric patient. When we suture a laceration on the pediatric patient, we apply this method using ribbon shaped knot. On stitching out, We pull one the edge of a stitching fiber easily without injury about normal tissue. Methods: We studied 54 pediatric patients who have facial lacerations for children under six years old, from May, 2006 to December, 2007 in Plastic Surgery department, emergency room. Among them 35 were male, 19 were female and age average was 3.9. Results: For following up dressing, ribbon shaped knot did not get loose. After stitching out in facial laceration on children, Major complication of infection, hematoma, dehiscence was not found. Conclusion: The advantage of this operation method using ribbon shaped knot when we Stitch out the fiber on the incorporative pediatric patients, is easy to perform and to reduce the stitching time, without sedation.

A Study on the Optical Properties of the Filament Yarn Weft Knit Fabrics and the 3-dimensional Model (필라멘트로 구성(構成)된 위편성물(緯編成物)및 모델의 광학적(光學的) 특성(特性)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究))

  • Shin, Hye-Sun;Kim, Jong-Jun;Jeon, Dong-Won
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.6 no.5
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    • pp.1-11
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    • 2002
  • Today, great percentage of apparel fabrics comprise knit products. A few apparel items are almost exclusively made from knit products including sweaters, T-shirts, lingerie, and hosiery. In weft knits, intermeshing yarn traverses the fabric crosswise. The production rate of knitting machines is about four times higher than that of conventional looms iin proportion to the amount of fabric produced per unit time. Knit apparels fabrics are noted for freedom of body movement, easy-care, resilience, soft draping and quality. The appearance of fabrics is of prime importance along with tactile features such as smoothness, crispness, stiffness when we deal with the handling evaluation of the textiles. In practice, the quality and performance of fabrics judged by sighted evaluators, and it is perhaps logical, in attempting to establish an effective fabric objective measurement system. It is worthwhile to make objective measurement that correlate well with subjective evaluations made by sight and touch together. However, it often imposes difficulties to effectively measure and analyze the appearance or optical properties of the textile surface features. In this study, an attempt is made to provide a preliminary approach to the analysis of the gloss property, which is one of the optical properties of fabrics. The specimens range from 70/24 nylon 6 filament yarn knit fabric to 70/68 nylon 6 filament yarn knit fabric, the latter being finer. A few three-dimensional models based on Peirce's model of knit stitch have been proposed and material properties were given to calculate the properties. Goniophotometric measurements of the specimens were also carried out.

Development of Prototype of Knit Slacks for Middle-aged Women (중년 여성의 니트 슬랙스 기본 원형 개발)

  • Lee, Jung-Jin
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.19 no.4
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    • pp.153-167
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    • 2015
  • This paper proposes knit slacks patterns by lower body shape of middle-aged women. In addition, this paper aims to propose a design method for a prototype of nice knit slacks using the properties of knitwear. To select basic woven slack patterns which would be used in designing prototype of knit slacks for middle-aged women, two industrial slack patterns and two educational slack patterns were collected, and lab coats were prefabricated using muslin. Then, a shape test was performed by an evaluation board which consisted of eight experts who majored in Clothing Construction. Using blended yarn (1/17's) with 64% wool, 23% rayon and 13% nylon, 12G knit slacks in plain stitch were made. In terms of waist circumference of knit slacks, the front and the back were set to W/4+1+2(D) and W/4-1+2(D), respectively, with 1cm of difference using waist circumference (Omphalion) to cover the abdominal circumference. To make the front-back width of the side line even, the front waist circumference was increased by 1cm. The ease of hip circumference was set to 4cm in total with H/4+1+0.8 in front and H/4+1-0.8 in the back (0.8cm in difference). Crotch length was set by adding 3cm (width of waist belt) after deducting crotch height from waist height (Omphalion). The center front angle was shifted by 1cm while the center back angle was shifted from the center front to the side line by 5cm.

Flexor Tenorrhaphy Using Absorbable Suture Materials

  • Kang, Hyung Joo;Lee, Dong Chul;Kim, Jin Soo;Ki, Sae Hwi;Roh, Si Young;Yang, Jae Won
    • Archives of Plastic Surgery
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    • v.39 no.4
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    • pp.397-403
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    • 2012
  • Background Nonabsorbable sutures are favorable for repairing flexor tendons. However, absorbable sutures have performed favorably in an animal model. Methods Two-strand sutures using the interlocking modified Kessler method with polydioxanone absorbable sutures 4-0 were used to repair completely ruptured flexor tendons in 55 fingers from 41 consecutive patients. The medical records of average 42 follow up weeks were analyzed retrospectively. The data analyzed using the chi-squared test, and Fisher's exact test was used for postoperative complications. The results were compared with those of other studies. Results Among the index, middle, ring, and little fingers were injured in 9, 17, 16, and 13 fingers, respectively. The injury levels varied from zone 1 to 5. Of the 55 digits in our study, there were 26 (47%) isolated flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) injuries and 29 (53%) combined FDP and with flexor digitorum superficialis injuries. Pulley repair was also conducted. Concomitant injuries of blood vessels and nerves were found in 17 patients (23 fingers); nerve injuries occurred in 5 patients (10 fingers). Two patients had ruptures (3.6%), and one patient had two adhesions (3.6%). Using the original Strickland criteria, all the patients were assessed to be excellent or good. Also, fibrosis and long-term foreign body tissue reactions such as stitch granuloma were less likely occurred in our study. Compared to the Cullen's report that used nonabsorbable sutures, there was no significant difference in the rupture or adhesion rates. Conclusions Therefore, this study suggests that appropriate absorbable core sutures can be used safely for flexor tendon repairs.

Development of Image Processing Program to Inspect Concrete Bridges (콘크리트 교량 외관조사용 이미지 처리 프로그램 개발)

  • Lee, Byeong-Ju;Shin, Jae-In;Park, Chang-Ho
    • Proceedings of the Korea Concrete Institute Conference
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    • 2008.04a
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    • pp.189-192
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    • 2008
  • Generally, the inspection is hard work and needs a lot of time. So, this work contains subjectivity of inspector owing to carry out the visual evaluations through naked eye. Thus, the result of inspection is not objective and reliable. The purpose of this study is to develop new inspection technique to solve above problems and to provide convenient inspection work. We make a new inspection system using digital image processing technology. This program can stitch each image and detect cracks of surface of concrete bridge. Also, It can extract an investigation drawing from the picture. Also, this program is a kind of management tools designed to have some functions such as converting the image data obtained from cameras to Data-Base format, searching and storing the data. At first, we try to make a automatic extracting program. But, changed by semiautomatic method because of various problems. Through field experiments, the application of this inspection system with specialty software has proven to be much faster, safer, and reliable than the inspections carried out by the naked eyes in managing safety of the bridges. The new inspection method may be able to make the inspection of bridge more efficient and reliable.

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