• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.21 no.5
• /
• pp.597-605
• /
• 2019

This paper examined the garment formability and appearance of perspiration absorption, fast dry, and breathable fabrics. The mechanical properties and seam pucker properties of these fabrics were measured and regression analysis was conducted between fabric structural parameters and their mechanical and seam pucker properties. The superior total appearance value (TAV) of fast dry knitted fabrics for sports-wear was achieved in fabrics with high extensibility and bending rigidity; consequently, it increased with increasing stitch density and tightness factor. The formability of the fast dry knitted fabric also improved with an increasing stitch density and tightness factor. The seam pucker was influenced by bending rigidity and a good seam pucker was exhibited in the fast dry knitted fabrics with low stitch density and tightness factor. However, the formability (F) of the breathable fabric improved by increasing extensibility and bending rigidity that decreased with an increasing cover factor and the thickness of the breathable fabric. In addition, seam pucker deteriorated with an increasing cover factor and the thickness of the breathable fabric, which was similar to the results of the formability predicted in fabric mechanical properties. A superior seam pucker was achieved in fabrics with high extensibility and low bending rigidity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.45 no.1
• /
• pp.46-55
• /
• 2021

Seam puckering and the seam strength of conductive threads used to produce smart clothing were analyzed according to stitching methods and fabrics. Samples were prepared in a lock stitch and zigzag stitch on plain woven and jersey knit fabric, using one type of polyester sewing thread and three types of commercial conductive threads that consisted of two types of stainless-steel conductive threads (TST and MST) and one type of silver conductive thread (SSV). Seam pucker percentages, shapes, and seam strength were measured. On plain woven fabric as well as jersey knit fabric, three-ply TST and MST showed a higher SP percentage compared to a polyester sewing thread. Meanwhile, single-ply SSV showed the lowest SP percentage. In addition, the SP percentage of the zigzag stitch decreased along the weft and course directions of the fabric, and decreased significantly as the number of fabric layers increased. Moreover, there was a marked tendency for a higher SP percentage in jersey knit fabric compared to plain woven fabric, and the two-dimensional cross-section waveforms of stitches obtained using three-dimensional data that showed increased irregular waveforms and peaks in the zigzag stitch. There were no correlations between seam strength and tensile strength.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.46 no.1
• /
• pp.147-164
• /
• 2022

The aim of this study was to reproduce the ordinary attire of Yi Seung-hyu, a civil official and writer of the late Goryeo, which will be used to make a his portrait. The reproduced costume consists of a single-layered pyoui (表衣) and jungdan (中單), lined jeogori and baji, and geon (巾), created with reference to historical documents, materials, and portraits. The pyoui was made with samcheokbe, with an H-shaped neck-shoulder band, an oblique single collar, and rectangular gussets. Two skirts were attached on the inside at the back, similarly to dopo. The jungdan also has an oblique single collar, but has an I-shaped neck-shoulder band and triangular gussets. A flat felled seam stitch, whip stitch, and French seam stitch were used in the hemlines and seams of the pyoui and jungdan. The jeogori and baji were made with toju (土紬), and small ties were attached to stabilize them. The geon is a long, oblique hat, which has folded side lines, and was made with flexible black hangra and using a French seam stitch and backstitch. The results include the elements of "restoration, historical research, and portrait costume", and will be maintained as the cultural heritage of Samcheok City.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.14 no.1
• /
• pp.111-121
• /
• 2012

This study focused on the plane and side drape coefficients of weft knitted fabrics as a function of knit structure, stitch density, and stiffness. Fifteen weft knitted fabrics are produced with five different structures (interlock, single pique, royal interlock, cross miss interlock, and mock royal interlock) and three different gauges (7G, 10G, and 12G). Five knit structures were the application of knit, tuck, and miss stitch on the basis of interlock of the double knit fabric For this purpose, three-dimensional shapes of the draped sample were obtained by using a drapability tester which can record the contour line coordinates of a projected plane drape. Then, projected shapes of the plane and side drape were derived from those three-dimensional ones to review the relationship between plane drape coefficients and side ones. It was found that the theoretical values of plane and side drape coefficients depending on the change of deflection angles fit to their experimental ones. A5 a result of a regression analysis of the relationship between plane and side drape coefficients, the relationship could be expressed as $y=0.5838x-0.0065x^2+9.03{\times}10^{-5}x^3$. In case of mean of drape coefficient, it was increased according to the rule of that the more tuck and miss stitch overlap. A high degree of correlation was found between stiffness and drape coefficient. The regression equation of drape coefficient($y$) can be represented by $y=y=\sqrt[3]{Stiffness}-10.72$.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.13 no.3
• /
• pp.467-475
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study was to examine the sewing construction of a double robe, the difference between the single and double robe, and the size and construction method of the double robe through a close analysis of a replica to facilitate a better understanding of the robe making in late Chosun dynasty. The results were as follows: 1. There was no significant difference in the design and sewing method between the girl's robe and an adult's even though the girl's robe was much smaller. 2. The girl's robe differed from its modern counterparts in some respects: unlike modem robes, Chungyun's robe consisted of two-layers in which the four layers were sewn together and it could be seen most clearly in the way the collar was stitched only onto the outer layer. The two layers seemed to be put on successively since they were not sewn together. The inner collars of the two robes were sewn together when the maker put on a coat string to the outer robe, and the two robes were put together with hemming and blind stitch at the top of the outer collars to make the robe formally stable, which clearly distinguished the princess' robe from a single, for example, four-layered robe. The robe was constructed using traditional sewing methods including broad stitch, back stitch, hemming, and blind stitch, and each stitch was only about 1 mm wide. 3. The maker of the robe managed to construct a formally stable and aesthetically satisfactory robe with the least amount of fabric and proper sewing methods.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.12 no.5
• /
• pp.676-682
• /
• 2010

Superior hydrophilic properties will allow varieties of polyester(PET) fiber materials, fabrics and industrial materials a broader scope of use. The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of water-absorbent softener treatment on the end-use properties and the hand of polyester knitted fabrics. Two different fabrics were knitted for the summer ladies' outwear; PET jersey and PET mesh. Variables were softner treatment and stitch type(jersey and mesh). Mechanical properties of the fabric samples were measured by KES-FB system. From these, primary hand values(HV) were evaluated by the conversion equation (KW-403-KTU) and the total hand value(T.H.V.) was calculated according to the KN-304 Summer. Both water-absorbent softner treatment and stitch types affected mechanical properties and hand values of PET fabrics. Mesh were thicker than single jersey stitch. As they became thicker, tensile, shear, and compressional energy increased. It appeared that coefficient of friction of mesh stitch was larger than that of single jersey stitch. The coefficient of friction and the mean deviation of surface roughness were decreased by softener treatment. After softner treatment KOSHI and SHARI of the both PET jersey and PET mesh decreased. However, FUKURAMI values of PET jersey increased and that of PET mesh decreased. The T.H.V. of the treated PET jersey was lower than that of the untreated one, while the T.H.V. of the treated PET mesh was higher than that of the untreated one. Overall T.H.V. of the single jersey was better than that of the mesh before and after softner treatment.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.12 no.1
• /
• pp.10-20
• /
• 2010

In this research, by yearly subdividing and analyzing the characteristic of the embroidery design according to the garment item with a season the high value added is raised for a differencing and high performance conversion of the high fashion design and there is an object. In 2004, when the total 474 chapter was selected in S/S season till F/W season in 2008 and the embroidery design characteristic according to the kind of an item the analyzing method and statistical method was used. As to the first, and the embroidery design in which it follows of the garment item showed the stylized, and the plant motive of the geometric pattern by an edge and composite arrangement in an one-piece and blouse with the satin stitch and cut work technique. A monotone and the bright tone were used. The second, and the season different difference, the out line stitch, an applique, and the cut work technique S/S season were a feature. A plant, and the animal motive were expressed as the front arrangement and the monotone of the achromatic color appeared. As to F/W season, the long short stitch and satin stitch techniques were with the characteristic profit. The abstract motive showed up as the edge alignment and composite arrangement. And the plain tone and the monotone of the chromatics combination color are used. In the third, and the chronological difference, an applique the embroidery technique showed up in the out line stitch, and 2007 years in 2004 years and 2006 years. And the sentence motive of the animal, and the abstract motive the embroidery motive are embossed in 2005 years and 2006 years in 2008 years.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.21 no.2
• /
• pp.203-208
• /
• 2019

This paper considers the moisture permeability and fashion in the upper fabrics of cotton fabric shoes woven into various tissues and properties measured to examine the use as upper fabrics. We measured the tissues of the manufactured upper fabric are 1/3 twill, $4{\times}4$ weft rib, Maya, Triple, Deformed twill design (DTD), Diamond tissues and tear strength, tensile strength, breaking elongation, stretching under load at 100N, stitch tear resistance, and fastness. In the case of $4{\times}4$ weft rib, the tear strength and tensile strength were excellent; however, the elongation and stitch tear resistance at 100N load were less than the standard value. DTD fabrics are characterized by physical properties in the warp direction that are superior to those in the weft direction; however, the tear strength and tensile strength in the weft direction are less than the standard value. The 1/3 twill fabrics showed high tensile strength value and stitch tear resistance value in the warp direction; however, toughness, the main property of the shoe upper, was below the standard value. Triple and diamond fabrics, which have a significant effect on the performance of the shoe upper fabric, also had less than the standard value of tear strength. Maya upper fabric for shoes has better properties than other upper fabrics except for the elongation at break, and the stitch tear resistance has a value of 178% in the warp direction and 214% in the weft direction compared to the standard value. Therefore, the Maya fabric showed the possibility of being used as an upper textile for shoes.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Precision Engineering
• /
• v.15 no.12
• /
• pp.48-54
• /
• 1998

In sewing, fabrics is fed by an elliptic motion of the feed dog. The feeding control mechanism controls an elliptic motion of the feed dog, finally, controls stitch spacings and feeding directions of fabrics. This study discusses the feeding control mechanism of an industrial lock stitch sewing machine, which is a good example to study a machine kinematics. This study makes mathematical expressions of machine's motion in the feeding control mechanism. Thus, the motions of this mechanism are characterized, which will be used for kinematic analysis of the feed dog later. Also, the above mathematical expressions may be a basis for the new design of the feeding control mechanism and may be applied to development of the similar feeding control mechanism of other type sewing machine.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society For Composite Materials Conference
• /
• 2004.10a
• /
• pp.216-219
• /
• 2004

The stitching process has been widely utilized for the improvement of through-thickness property of the conventional laminated composites. This paper rep0l1s the effects of stitching on the flexural and interlaminar shear properties of multiaxial warp knitted composites in order to examine the performance improvements. Considered parameters are as follows: the stacking regularity of the multiaxial warp knits, the stitch spacings, the stitching types, the stitching location, and the location of compression fixture nose. These parameters have little effect on the flexural and interlaminar shear properties, except for the case of stitching location. Stitching on the $0^{\circ}$ fibers showed the lowest flexural strength and modulus ($12\%$reduction for both properties). The stitch spacing of 5mm resulted 8% reduction in interlaminar strength compared with 10mm spacing.