• Title/Summary/Keyword: Stitch

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A Study on the Shrinkage and Dimensional Characteristics of the Weft Knitted Fabrics with Polylactic acid(PLA) Yarn (Polylactic acid(PLA) 위편성물의 수축특성과 형태안정성에 관한 연구)

  • Choi, Jae-Woo;Jang, Bong-Sik;Lee, Eun-Woo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Industry Convergence
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    • v.16 no.2
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    • pp.47-52
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    • 2013
  • Aim of this study is to investigate the dimensional and shrinkage characteristics of the weft knitted fabrics with Polylactic acid(PLA) knitted yarn. This PLA knitted yarn was made of the biodegradability fiber. The structure of weft knitted fabrics that was utilized for this study is the plain stitch, which is the most basic structure among all weft knitted fabrics. As the stitch length is shorter, the stitch density, courses density, and wales density are more increasing. The stitch density increased as pre-treatment process and dyeing process progressed. On the contrary, the heat setting process made it decreasing. The MR(Machine Relaxation) and DR(Dry Relaxation) standard area shrinkage were increasing as wet process progressed and as the stitch lengths are long.

Sewing Construction of the 17th Century-Clothing Through the Excavated Costume - Based on Tombs in O chang - (출토복식을 통해본 17세기 봉제구성 -임경백.임계백 묘 중심-)

  • 장인우
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.51 no.1
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    • pp.33-48
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    • 2001
  • This study is on the sewing construction of the 17th century clothing through the Excavated Costumes in O-chang, ChungBuk in 1998. The followings are the results of this study. There are various sewing constructions in this excavates costume : a running stitch.a back stitch.a half back stitch.a french seam.a gobsol(korean traditional seam sewing). We can see that the sewing construction of the 17th century-clothing depends on construction styles : one layer, two layers, clothing padded with cotton(include quilt). We can see that sewing construction in the one taler clothing consisted of a running stitch, a french seam, a gobsol seam. In the two layer clothing the construction included a running stitch and half back stitch. a running switch and a decorated top stitch(3stitch) were used in the clothing padded with cotton. We can see that the sewing construction enhanced the function of keeping the shape of clothing and the raw edges. We can see that the shape of clothing is important in presentation of aesthetic of the clothing. Such a kind of sewing construction lasted from the early Chosen Dynasty through the 17th century.

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A Study on the Effect of Drape by the Construction Method of th eCircular Skirt (Circular Skirt의 구성방법에 따른 Drape효과에 관한 연구)

  • 홍정민
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.33
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    • pp.217-228
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    • 1997
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate influence of the construction method of the circular skirt on drapability and shape of static silhouette and length variation. In made 24 types of skirts giving the variations (six kinds of peach skin-like finished fabrics two types of cutting method two types of machine stitch method of hem), The results were as follows: 1. Analysis of drapability In the cutting method thre was similarity between warp direction and true bias direc-tion. In the machine stitch method of hem there was similarity between blind stitch and blind stitch machine. According to the fabrics analysis of drapability was excellent in the order N/P 80/20(fabric 1)>P 100(fabric 5)>P 100(fabric 6)>P 100 (fabric 2)>P 100 (fabric 4)>N/C 50/50(fabric 3). 2. Analysis of the characteristics values of static silhouette shape In the cutting method shape of static sil-houette became wide in the warp direction. In the machine stitch method of hem shape of static silhouette became wide in the blind stitch. According to the fabrics shape of static silhouette became most wide in the N/C 50/50(fabric 3) and shape of static sil-houette become most narrow in the P 100(fabric 2,5) 3. Analysis of the length variation In the cutting method the true bias direc-tion was longer than the warp direction. In the machine stitch method of hem there was simi-machine stitch method of hem there was simi-larity between blind stitch and blind stitch ma-chine. In fabrics the P 100(fabric 6) showed the longest the N/C 50/50(fabric 3) showed most slight. Interaction between the cutting and messure-ment part of skirt lengh. In the warp diretion parts that showed longest length variation were C. G, K, O in the true bias diretion parts that showed most slight length variation were A, E, M, I.

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Analysis of the Structure of Lockstitched Seam according to Sewing Thread Tension (봉사장력에 따른 본봉 Seam의 구조해석)

  • Suh, Jung-Kwon
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.3 no.1
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    • pp.25-30
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    • 2001
  • In order to investigate the influence of thread tension on the structure of lockstitch seam, stitch tightness and seam balance ratio are measured at various tensions of needle thread and bobbin thread. The structure of lockstitch was shown in terms of skeleton stitch models to obtain quantitative analysis of stitch tightness. The balanced seam formed to the rectangu1ar stitch model under low bobbin thread tension, but the fabric tightness produced by interlaced needle and bobbin thread under high bobbin thread tension. In this paper, new equation to obtain seam balance ratio was proposed for a lockstitch seam. By using the new equation, the seam balance ratio was not affected by the stitch density and fabric thickness. In order to form the balanced seam, the ratio on tension of needle thread and bobbin thread was about 6:1~7:1 in this experiment.

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A Study on the Hand-Knit Design (손뜨개 니트 디자인에 관(關)한 연구(硏究))

  • Kim, Eun-Jung;Yum, Hae-Jung
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.10 no.1
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    • pp.1-19
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the social and cultural background of hand-knitting things with handcraft feeling which is appeared conspicuously after 2000. And to analyze the types and characteristics of hand-knit design. The resorts of this study is as follows: First, it is found that the pattern of stitch in their forms and ornament technique of handcraft feeling are the remarkable factors to decide the specific designs in the most of hand-knit designs. The major forms are plain stitch, rib stitch, cable stitch, lace stitch, relief stitch and pile stitch and the ornament techniques such as patch work, fringe, embroidery and collage are being widely used. Second, after 2000, due to peoples' preference for handcraft feeling manufactures, pursuit trend of artless luxury by retouch appeared, it made feeling for recurrence of the past and the warm humanity. In addition, the pro-eco trend using pro-environment materials and capturing the nature as images are on its way to advance. Through the mix & match of materials, details and items, it becomes possible to express many kinds of images. Thanks to those characteristics, the hand-knit designs are now acknowledged as luxurious with the couture sense attached and are shaking off their previous image of recycling.

Seam Strength Depending on the Change of Stitch Density of Fine Cotton Fabrics (세번수 면직물의 땀수 변화에 따른 봉합강도)

  • Uh, Mi-Kyung
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.15 no.2
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    • pp.57-64
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    • 2013
  • As the clothing materials have been more functional and advanced, the cotton fabrics for dress shirts or blouses have been more qualified and the sewability for high degree of completion has been required. This study aims to identify the seam strength depending on the change of stitch density of fine cotton fabrics by fabric and thread and so the general seam performance of fine cotton fabrics by analyzing the seam efficiency and breaking mode of seams. For an experiment, 3 kinds of fine cotton fabrics and 2 kinds of threads were selected and the sample was made by changing the stitch density by four steps. Then, the seam strength was measured. Next, the seam efficiency and breaking mode of seams were analyzed on the basis of the results of seam strength measurement. The results are as follows: All fabrics showed the similar tendency in seam strength. The seam strength is related to the tensile strength and thread strength, it increased only to a certain stitch density. When the stitch density exceeded a certain level, fabrics were destroyed or threads were cut. Then, the seam strength didn't increase. Furthermore, the more the seam strength increased, the more the seam efficiency increased. For increasing the maximum stitch density, it was required to use the fabrics and threads which had similar properties, in other words, the high thread strength for the high tensile strength and the low thread strength for the high tensile strength.

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Study on Housed at Museum of Sun Am Temple (선암사 소장 <용문자수탁의(龍紋刺繡卓衣)> 연구)

  • Sim, Yeon-Ok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.67 no.2
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    • pp.88-100
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    • 2017
  • This study is for the textiles of at Sun Am Temple and characteristic of embroidery. Tak Ui was composed of orange body and green upper cover, and had no strings. The body plate was covered with embroidery, with Gauze base, and upper part was appliqued, by cutting dragon pattern, cloud pattern on satin damask. The thread for embroidery was silk floss, silk twisted thread, rapped gold thread, and rapped silk thread. For padding, it was used cotton thread in the part of dragon's scales. It was used satin stitch, outline stitch, split stitch, couching, and counted stitch, etc. as method of embroidery. In particular, it embroidered counted stitch of diamond shape consecutively on the whole of Tak Ui, it does so with counted stitch of same effect of weaving Brocade in the part of cloud. Besides, it is one of the characteristic for couching rapped silk thread. Such lead embroidery is the popular method in the Ming dynasty of China, in the 16~17 century. The design of Tak Ui is dragon, cloud, and wave in the theme. In the center, 'Seong-su-man-nyeon' was placed on the heads of dragon. This is similar to Dragon Robe of Four-petalled medallion patterns, period of Ming dynasty in China. Therefore, it confirmed that Tak Ui was remodeled the embroidered textiles, made for royal robe, originally, with Tak Ui at temple.

Easy and Fast Stitch out Method with a Traction Nylon in Pediatric Sutured Wound (당김줄을 이용한 소아 열상 환부의 쉽고 빠른 발사 방법)

  • Lee, Yoon-Jung;Lee, Kyung-Suk;Kim, Jun-Sik;Kim, Nam-Gyun
    • Archives of Plastic Surgery
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    • v.37 no.2
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    • pp.199-201
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    • 2010
  • Purpose: Except for continuous suture in skin layer, stitching out in facial laceration, we have to hold each knots up and cut the knots by No. 11 blade or small scissors. However, we often have difficulty in stitching out the knots on children who do not cooperate well. Therefore we introduce an easy and fast stitch out method of pediatric lacerations. Methods: From January to May 2009, we studied 15 pediatric patients (mean age 5.6 years old) who had facial laceration on face or underwent any surgery on operation room. For easy stitch out, we left the one string of the first knot long enough to extend at the opposite end of laceration site. And then the extended string was fixed to skin using Steri-strip. Next we do simple interrupted suture including the extended traction nylon string inside the knot. Through this method, we can stitch out all knots simply by lifting up the traction nylon needless to hold the each knot one by one. Results: Until stitching out, the traction nylon was just right position and there was no normal tissue injury during stitch out all knots. Patients were satisfied with the short stitch out time. Conclusion: By using the traction nylon on pediatric laceration suture, we can stitch out all the knots with no normal tissue injury in less time.

A Study on the Knit Pattern Considering the Characteristics of Rib Stitch(2) -Focused on $2{\times}1\;and\;2{\times}2$ Rib Stitches (리브조직의 특성을 고려한 니트 패턴 연구(2) -$2{\times}1$ rib 조직과 $2{\times}2$ rib 조직을 중심으로-)

  • Kim, Soo-Ah;Suh, Mi-A
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.13 no.1
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    • pp.47-59
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    • 2005
  • This study aims to measure stretch rate of standard weight in the $2{\times}1$ rib stitch and $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, and to apply features of rib stitch to the knit pattern. The reviewer examined the sample knit for test with 100% wool, $2/48's{\times}2$, 12 gauge, and then made knit patterns and sample clothes for test considering stretch rate of standard weight of 10gf, 15gf, 20gf, 25gf based on the results from the former test, and finally estimated the try-outs for sample clothes. This study came out with the following results: From the functional estimate of knit patterns made by standard stretch rate of each stitch, the 20gf weight sample clothes of $2{\times}1$ and $2{\times}2$ rib stitchs were in high estimate. For the bust, B/4~ -4.6cm knit pattern was made of $2{\times}1$ rib stitch, B/4~5.3cm of $2{\times}2$ rib stitch. In conclusion, because $2{\times}1$ and $2{\times}2$ rib stitchs has the much higher stretch rate in the direction of the course than $0{\times}0$ ad $1{\times}1$ rib stitchs, high stretch rate of standard weight should be applied to the case of making knit wear. It is expected that this will lead stable sizing and measurement system when used in making knit patterns, and satisfy knit wearers' various needs.

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