• Journal of the Korea Computer Graphics Society
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.15-24
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• 2020

We present a supervised learning method that estimates the simulation parameters required to simulate the fabric from the static drape shape of a given fabric sample. The static drape shape was inspired by Cusick's drape, which is used in the apparel industry to classify fabrics according to their mechanical properties. The input vector of the training model consists of the feature vector extracted from the static drape and the density value of a fabric specimen. The output vector consists of six simulation parameters that have a significant influence on deriving the corresponding drape result. To generate a plausible and unbiased training data set, we first collect simulation parameters for 400 knit fabrics and generate a Gaussian Mixed Model (GMM) generation model from them. Next, a large number of simulation parameters are randomly sampled from the GMM model, and cloth simulation is performed for each sampled simulation parameter to create a virtual static drape. The generated training data is fitted with a log-linear regression model. To evaluate our method, we check the accuracy of the training results with a test data set and compare the visual similarity of the simulated drapes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.28-41
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• 2015

Properties of textile fabrics influence the appearance, aesthetics, and performance of garment. Drape and related properties of fabrics affect profoundly the static and dynamic appearance during wearer's movement. The three dimensional shape of the folded structure often deforms with time or with subtle vibration around the fabric specimen during the drape measurement. Due to the uneven and complex nature of fabrics, the overall shape of the fabric specimen on the drape tester often becomes unstable. There is a need to understand the fundamental mechanisms of how draping may generate pleasing forms. Two drape test methods, conventional Cusick drape test, and in-built drape tester, based on a depth camera, are compared. Fabric specimens including cotton, linen, silk, wool, polyester, and rayon are investigated for the fabric drape and other physical/mechanical parameters. Drape coefficient values of fabric specimens are compared based on the final drape images, together with the intermediate 3D drape images of the specimens during elevation process of the drape tester equipped with a stepper motor system. The correlation coefficient between the data based on the two methods is reasonably high. Another advantage from the depth camera system is that it allows further analysis of three-dimensional information regarding the fabric drape shape, including the shape of nodes or crest and trough.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2004.11a
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• pp.40-40
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• 2004

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.103-114
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• 2011

During a wearer's movement, the apparel fabric layers collide each other in a highly complicated manner. The collision involves cloth-cloth, and cloth-body collision. The diversity of the textile fabrics, including silk, wool, cotton, and other synthetic fibers, together with the complex details of the apparel construction, makes the collision and other calculation procedure involved in the 3-dimensional clothing software system much more complicated. Therefore, there is a need to measure the behavior of the fabrics during the fabric collision cycles. In this study, as a first step, static measurements pertinent to the factors governing the appearance of the apparel fabrics were implemented. The drape profile, stiffness(Sd and Sf), tensile properties, thickness, and the air permeability were measured. The correlation between the parameters were calculated and reviewed. It is found that there is a high correlation of 0.97 between the actual fabric drape parameters and the 3D virtual fabric drape parameters. The measured drape coefficients of the fabrics show relatively good correlation with the measured fabric stiffness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.33
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• pp.217-228
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to investigate influence of the construction method of the circular skirt on drapability and shape of static silhouette and length variation. In made 24 types of skirts giving the variations (six kinds of peach skin-like finished fabrics two types of cutting method two types of machine stitch method of hem), The results were as follows: 1. Analysis of drapability In the cutting method thre was similarity between warp direction and true bias direc-tion. In the machine stitch method of hem there was similarity between blind stitch and blind stitch machine. According to the fabrics analysis of drapability was excellent in the order N/P 80/20(fabric 1)>P 100(fabric 5)>P 100(fabric 6)>P 100 (fabric 2)>P 100 (fabric 4)>N/C 50/50(fabric 3). 2. Analysis of the characteristics values of static silhouette shape In the cutting method shape of static sil-houette became wide in the warp direction. In the machine stitch method of hem shape of static silhouette became wide in the blind stitch. According to the fabrics shape of static silhouette became most wide in the N/C 50/50(fabric 3) and shape of static sil-houette become most narrow in the P 100(fabric 2,5) 3. Analysis of the length variation In the cutting method the true bias direc-tion was longer than the warp direction. In the machine stitch method of hem there was simi-machine stitch method of hem there was simi-larity between blind stitch and blind stitch ma-chine. In fabrics the P 100(fabric 6) showed the longest the N/C 50/50(fabric 3) showed most slight. Interaction between the cutting and messure-ment part of skirt lengh. In the warp diretion parts that showed longest length variation were C. G, K, O in the true bias diretion parts that showed most slight length variation were A, E, M, I.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.155-164
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• 2007

Viscose rayon has advantages such as vivid luster, good dyeability, low static electricity, good absorbance and good spinnability but also has flaws such as easy crease and decrease of physical properties when it gets wetting, and it requires dry cleaning. Therefore in order to synthesize the polymer to solve the problems of rayon while keeping the advantages of it, this study made the high specific gravity polyester for ultra drape property and high contraction polyester for rayon-like fiber having volume, soft and warm sense. The polyester with high specific gravity, 1.47 was made by adding 7 wt% of $BaSO_4$ as additive. High contraction polyester was made by copolymerization by using IPA 5 mole% to increase the amorphous region as comonomer and also using Newpol BPE-20(NPE) 1.5 wt% not to decrease the properties.

• Journal of KIISE:Software and Applications
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.181-191
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• 2005

This article describes a simplified mathematical model and the relevant numerical algorithm to simulate the draped cloth on virtual human body. The proposed algorithm incorporates an elliptical, or non-consecutive, method to simulate the cloth wrinkles on moving bodies without resorting to the result of the past time-steps of drape simulation. A global-local analysis technique was employed to decompose the drape of cloths into the global deformation and the local wrinkles that will be superposed linearly The global deformation is determined directly by the rotation and the translation of body parts to generate a wrinkle-free yet globally deformed shape of cloth. The local wrinkles are calculated by solving simple elliptical equations based on the orthogonality between conjugate harmonic functions representing the wrinkle amplitude and the direction of wrinkles. The proposed method requires no interpolative time frames even for discontinuous body postures. Standing away from the incremental approach of time integration in conventional methods, the proposed method yields a remarkable reduction of CPU time and an enhanced stability. Also, the transient motion of cloth could be achieved by interpolating between the deformations corresponding to each static posture.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.38-45
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• 2009

First of all, the properties imparted to PET fabrics are resistance to and recovery from creasing or wrinkling when wet or dry; high resistance to stretch in the filament yarns but not in the staple; high abrasion resistance; good texture and appearance; resistance to heat ageing; good chemical resistance and good resistance, behind glass, to sunlight. But, the low moisture regain of PET fabric conduces to static troubles in textile processing. Furthermore, garments made from PET may, during wear, develop electric charges which attract to the fabric particles of soil(dirt, swarf, dust) flying in the air, so that the cuffs of shirts, for example, become soiled quickly and are not easily laundered clean. The sericin constitutes 25$\sim$30％ of silk protein and surrounds the fibroin fiber with sticky layer that supports the formation of a cocoon. The useful biochemical properties of sericin protein are oxidation resistant, antibacterial, UV resistant, hydrophilic property, and good affinity with hydrophobic material. These properties can be used as an improving reagent or a coating agent for natural and synthetic fibers, fabrics, and other intermediate products. The sericin is also applied to cross-link, and can be blended with other materials. In this study, we modified the surface of PET fabric by mixture of sericin finishing agent; sericin, polyuretane binder and 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) cross-link agent. Also, we investigated the finshing effect; moisture regain, stiffness, handle, drape and electrostatic. The moisture regain of PET fabric treated with sericin finishing agent was higher than that of untreated PET fabric. As a result of evaluating influence about handle of PET fabrics treated with sericin finishing agent, it was confirmed that the sericin finishing agent could be use as a linen like finishing agent.