• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.6
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• pp.40-55
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to find ways to increase sales and enhance of the competitiveness of the Korean fashion brands expanding into the Chinese market by conducting a survey of the Chinese female students in order to gather data regarding their preferences and features so that clothes that are more suitable for Chinese women can be designed. For this study, a survey was conducted to 305 students attending universities or language schools located in the metropolitan areas near Seoul who had exposure to Korean clothes. The study results can be summed up as follows: According to the analysis, the Chinese students preferred comfortable, practical, and casual styles. And the analysis shows that they prefer achromatic monotonous colors rather than vivid colors or splendid and complex patterns. The students felt that Korean clothes reflected the trends very well, and they also showed very high satisfaction with the design. The most common way of gathering information for their clothing purchase was through Internet search and magazine advertisements. The survey showed that the biggest strength of the Korean fashion brands was their ability to reflect the fast changing fashion trends in their designs, and they were very much satisfied with their diverse designs and colors. Among the domestic fashion brands, they prefer domestic SPA brands such as MIXXO, SPAO, and 8IGHT SECONDS.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.1-13
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• 2014

Hundertwasser's paintings have the characteristics in his works continue to emerge organical spirals, geometric pattern of squares, mysterious and gorgeous colors. This study by applying them, it has been purposed of expansion of representation outstanding artistic formative knitwear by using yarn of various textured fabrics and leather, felt, beads of the materials. The methods of this study are through the analysis of literature of Hundertwasser's paintings and art world and formative traits. It has been studied the literature of the theoretical background on general examination of knitwear and knit, felting, needle punching techniques. Conclusions from this study are as follows: The first, It could know the organic spirals and geometric square patterns and gorgeous colors of Hundertwasser's paintings are suitable as a decorative and rich motif of knitwear design. The second, It was possible unique and various texture expression of decorative patterns of Hundertwasser's paintings by expressing variety of materials of knit, felt and fabric, leather, beads. The third, It was expressed knitwear of unique texture to express Hundertwasser's image of the painting by using hand knitting, felting, needle punching, patchwork, beading of complex techniques. The forth, It was reflected well Hundertwasser's idea which was affected nature and art nouveau that all production processes are composed of handcraft techniques. It was suitable to express the naturalness of hand knit and not mechanical or artificial image. The fifth, It was analyzed lines and patterns of Hundertwasser's painting. The spiral is simultaneously constituted curve shape and area that square patterns also have devided area.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.25-44
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• 2008

Geisha's gorgeous kimonos and grotesque make-up was the object of envy to Japanese women. There is a line in the movie like "Kimonos to the Geisha is the same as colors to the painter." Likewise, splendid patterns and colorful kimonos were an indispensible method or symbol for showing their artistic accomplishments. The purpose of this study is to investigate concept and origin of Geisha and their dress and decoration, analyze the dress of the people which appear in the movie, , arrange the expression of Geisha's dress as a movie costume, compare the difference of the dress by the career of Geisha and look back the disappearing aesthetic sense of Geisha. First, since Geisha appeared for the first time in Kyoto in 1751, it has become the world-wide representative of Japanese woman's images so that its existence oneself has become the tradition. Second, Geisha created fashion of various clothes, adornments, and hair styles as a creator of the popularity. Third, the strict regulation without exception is applied in Geisha's clothing, make-up, and motion tuned Samisen, Japanese traditional strings, and there is some difference in their hair style and dress by age of Maiko. Fourth, it is famous for unique make-up that Geisha makes up their faces, necks, and shoulders white, newly paints eyes, nose, lip line like drawing a picture in a pure white paper. Geishas put a little make-up as they have a higher position. Fifth, a heroin, Chiyo, shows clothing as a maid, an apprentice Geisha-Maiko- and a formal Geisha according to time flow. The length of kimono, textures, and hair decorations are longer, more splendid, and are more various as time goes. On the other hand, her make-up is lighter.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.90-107
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• 2007

Modernization movement has affected classical operas. Today, classical operas are often re-interpreted from the modern perspective and played differently only with the storyline maintained. Also, operas are increasingly performed outside traditional theaters as the boundaries between stage and audience become less obvious. Accordingly, stage costumes are being differently designed than before. New attempts are being made to look costumes in a harmony with increasingly streamlined stage machinery. This helps increase public attention on operas, consequently promoting the opera industry. This study examines modernization of opera costumes. For this study, the author worked as one of costume design staff for "Faust," which was played in Sungnam Art Center from November 24, 2005 to November 27, 2005 in commemoration of the opening of the center. The following outcomes of the crowd are drawn from this study. A variety of splendid pink dresses, ribbons, dolls, hand mirror, and hair bands were used to express haughty girls with "Princess Syndrome." Fashion models, the envy of all woman, wore fashionable clothes including luxury dresses, fur-coats, high heels, purses, and hats, Models also had big shopping bags and gift boxes to symbolize shopping lovers in a modern society. Gay men wore tight leather trousers and vest and sleeves shirts with deeply cut neckline to express their preference for feminie style. their clothes were splendid colors that normally women liked such as gold, purple, light green, scarlet, and silver. Soldiers were in combat uniform representing their participation in the war. In particular, clothes stained with dirt, iron helmet, crutches, and canteens were used to vividly express soldiers coming back home from the war. Modern opera costumes now help reduce the time and space between stage and audience, improve economic efficiency, and meet the audience's needs for various style.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1019-1034
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to grasp creation background and social position of courtesan which is treated in social and cultural context and its effect on fashion and research representative courtesans from ancient hetaera to the 19th century and their costume characteristics. Its another purpose is to analyze the costume of Violetta, who is a heroine of opera and its costume characteristic as a courtesan. Most Courtesan clothing were made from bright color, silk and lace which were light, or transparent materials. Using silk and cashmere which were the symbols of class, she took the cutting edge fashion and struggled to break the social barriers. The clothing which the Courtesan wore always became a gossip among people and popular to the designers who could show their creativities because the Courtesan boldly wore the cloth like movie actresses or stars. The Courtesan who led the fashion not only showed the fashion as a simple expression of the beauty but also as a socio-cultural phenomenon which reflected their social awareness with arts, and changed according to the situations of the time and people. Violetta's party dress which was shown in the first and third acts of showed the shoulders and chest because of the deep and wide cut decollete, the waist was tightened with a corset as much as possible, and the opulent hips were inflated by the crinoline so when they walked it was swaying. Also it was decorated with splendid materials such as silk and lace, and sparkling jewels, fans, and neckless and even in case of the general clothing in the second act, it was decorated with braids and lace, frills and ribbons. In the third act, the weakness of the sick woman who was closing her life as the splendid Courtesan was emphasized by using colors of white and light purple and thin transparent materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.12
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• pp.1837-1847
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• 2008

The goal of this study is to express the image of chameleons-that change their colors by light, temperature and its mood-into the sexy styles of corresponding coquettish temperamental people in Wearable Art. The method used in this study was experimenting various production mediums, including creating the textured stretch fabric, in the process of expressing the conceptual characteristics of the chameleon in Wearable Art. The concept of the work was a concoction of 'tempting', 'splendid', 'brilliant', 'fascinating', etc. that highlighted the real disposition of the chameleon. The futuristic preference of the researcher was also implicated. "Comfortable" and "enjoyable" concepts via motions were improved with the its completeness. The point of the design and production is to express symbolically the chameleon in real life, analyzing its sleek body lines, conditional colors changing, outer skins and the cubic textures. The coquettish temperamental image, the conceptual image of the chameleon, was also expressed by implication into the whole work. The entire line of this work is body-conscious silhouette. It was symbolically selected to image the outline of the chameleon that has the slim and sleek body. The exposed back is intended to express symbolically the projected back bones of the chameleon. The hood of gentle triangle line expresses the smooth-lined head part. The irregular hemlines represent the elongated chameleon's tale. The chameleon with its colors of vivid tones is characterized the colors changing by its conditions. This point was importantly treated in the working process by trying the effects that the colors are seen slightly different according to the light and angles. The material was given the effect that its surface colors are seen different in lights and angles because of the wrinkles protruded lumpy-bumpy. The various stones of red and blue tones are very similar to the skin tones of the real chameleon, and their gradation makes the effect that the colors are visibly changed with each move. The textures of the chameleon were produced via the wrinkle effect of smoke-shape, which is the result of using the elastic threads on the basic mediums stitched with 50/50 chiffon and polyester along with velvet dot patterns. The stretching fabric by the impact of the elastic threads is as much suitable for making the body-conscious line. The stones are composed of acrylic cabochon and gemstone. They are symbolically expressed the lumpy and bumpy back skin of the chameleon and produced the effect of the colors visibly different. The primary technique used in this dress is the draping utilizing the biased grains. The front body piece is connected to the hood and joined to the back piece without any seam. For the irregular hemline flares, leaving the several rectangular pieces with bias grains, they were connected by interlocking. What defines the clothes is the person in action. Therefore, what decides the completeness of clothes might be its comfortable and enjoyable feeling by living and acting people. The chameleon dress could also reach its goal of comforting and pleasing Wearable Art in the process of studying the techniques and effects that visibly differentiate the colors. It is considered as a main point of the Wearable Art, which is a comfortable enjoyable clothing tempered with the artistic beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.6
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• pp.29-40
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• 2009

On April 28th of 2006, a set of Buddha's reliquary was excavated from the pagoda in n Nacsan Temple. According to the record, the relics were put in the pagoda in the 18th year of King SookJong in the Chosun Dynasty (1692). The present paper examines ten pieces of wrapping clothes covering reliquary found in the pagoda. They are especially precious data in the history of textiles because they were blocked off from outside and was preserved in good condition with vivid colors still remaining after more than 300 years. Of the ten pieces of wrapping cloth, five were double-layered and the other five were single-layered. They include 15 pieces of silk fabric but, excluding repeated use of the same silk fabric, the total of 11 pieces of silk fabric were examined. All 11 kinds of silk fabric were patterned, 9 of which were Satin and the other 2 were Twill. Of the 9 Satin pieces, 8 pieces were 5-end satin which had the ground of 5-end warp satin with the figure of 5-end weft satin. The remaining 1 Satin piece were more splendid with prominent figures by using warp and weft of different colors. The 2 Twill pieces used twill weave-the ground was 3-end warp twill and the figures were 5-end weft twill. Both of the Twill pieces were weaved with character patterns, partly using wrapped gold thread as supplementary weft. The patterns of 11 pieces of silk fabric include flower, dragon/phoenix, cloud, and geometric patterns. Five were flower patterns, three were dragon/phoenix patterns, two were geometric pattern, and one was cloud pattern. In addition, various treasure patterns, character patterns were utilized as supplementary patterns. The flower and phoenix patterns reflect characteristics of the textiles of the 17th century whereas check pattern and cloud pattern were very unique.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.862-873
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of the Military style in the 20th century and the images of the Military look shown in recent collections. The results of this study are as follows; 1) The aesthetic values of the Military style includes authority, functionality, resistibility and bisexuality. Authority is represented in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Functionality is represented in pants suits and skirts suits which are comfortable and simple. Resistibility is represented in wrinkled, dirty-old and torn military items. Bisexuality is shown on the military pants suits that a skirt or a mink coat is draped over. 2) The Military look in collections are expressed in classic, romantic, sexual, sporty, avant-garde and ethnic images. Classic images are appeared in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Romantic images are represented in the military items made of pastel-tone lace or splendid colored silk. Sexual images are appeared in designs to expose or to focus in women's body. Sporty images are represented in the military items made of new materials such as cotton-fleece, cotton-jersey and tencel. They have camouflage prints, melange-gray and fluorescent colors. Avant-garde images are appeared in the deformed suits and outer made of special materials with camouflage prints, khaki, gray and black. Ethnic images are represented in wearing military and ethnic items at the same time or military items made of ethnic colors, prints and handmade details.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.55-66
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• 2004

The objectives of this study were to examine how image evaluation and preference of women's clothing color vary according to perceiver's culture, gender, and clothing color; to investigate the differences of image evaluation according to body type and the clothing color; and to disclose what image affects to the clothing color preference of Korean and American. Subjects were 388 Korean and 363 American college men and women. The American evaluated the wearer more elegant, feminine, and neater than the Korean did. Clothing color gave significant influence on perception of all image variables. Koreans showed that red and blue color shirts were perceived to be individualistic. Koreans considered blue, indigo, purple, gray, and black were perceived to be less feminine. This means that they evaluated the colors of blue range and low chroma were masculine according to their traditional attitude. Women were more attracted by indigo and purple, while men tended to evaluate yellow as an appealing color. The evaluation of sociability varied depending on the perceiver's culture and clothing colors. The corpulent body type had negative evaluation rather than the ordinary one without the relation with the color of clothing for Koreans and Americans. The evaluation of sociability of Americans had an interaction effect by the body type and clothing color. Attractiveness gave the first significant influences on clothing color preference, and the next came individual(-) and splendid image for Korean men. The individual image gave Korean men to be negative effect. Attractiveness, elegance, and sociable image gave significant influences on clothing color preference in Korean women. For American men, elegance gave the first significant influences on clothing color preference, and the next came sociability and neatness, while elegance was the first and the next came sociability and attractiveness for American women.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.28-44
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to study the movie costume and color image through the movie "The Aviator". Firstly, looking at the costumes of main characters and their color images expressed in the movie, one extreme of Hughes' image to another was expressed in order to show his extreme inner world by using the light-dark contrast rather than specific colors as the base. The gold color used to express the image of Hepburn represented an image expressing her intellectual elegance. As for her dress silhouette, the taste of intellectual elegance was displayed by a dress whose back was exposed with a grownup-style feminine silhouette or one with drapes and pleats ornaments. To express Gardner's image; that is, her alluring charm and glow, a vivid red color was used. As for her costume, her splendid and fascinating image was expressed by the 40s' rectangular- shouldered tailored suit, exotic peasant blouse and showy accessories. Secondly, the color image expressed in the background in the movie as a special space for Hughes. The red color image of screening room was shown to be as a space for passion and desire and the green color image of men’s room as a space for stability and rest.