• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제19권1호
• /
• pp.95-105
• /
• 2015

This study investigated the color culture in the Japanese Medieval Age. The Japanese Medieval Age included the Kamakura period (1180-1333) and Muromachi period (1336-1573), and the leading group transitioned from the Kuge families to the Buke families. The taboos about colors from ancient times became nominal, and forbidden colors, such as purple, celadon, and red, became the colors of the samurai, leading to beautiful soldier gears that were unparalleled in history. In the Kamakura period, colors that conveyed a strong impression were created and preferred with the combination of a samurai's reasonable spirit and zen thoughts. The period was also called "the era of hari", and cross dyeing based on basic colors such as suou (red), ai (blue), and kuchinasi (yellow) was popular. In both the Kamakura and Muromachi periods, conspicuous and strong colors were sought for costumes, and embroidery was used with gold leaf, silver leaf, gold threads, silver threads, and background color. The colors of costume preferred by Buke men in the period included green, blue, and brown. In the characteristics of the kosode, the sugan and hitadare were used for men's formal dress, while kosode was used for the grooming of the working class. In these periods, additionally, the working class began to be socially engaged in actively wearing the one-layer kosode, which became popular, and the characteristics of the Japanese Medieval Age, during which functionality and practicality was valued, were also reflected in the dressing.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제20권4호
• /
• pp.573-585
• /
• 1996

This study of counter-culture - the cultural background of the Jean Fashion of which express the consciousness and youthfulness of young - shows the various social, cultural developments and the direction of growth for the Jean industry Until now, the fashion trends flowed from the elite, upper-class minority to the general public : however, in the case of the Jean Fashion, it has spread inversely to the upper-class from the young people who have adopted the life-styles of the lower, middle class, working people. With the emphasis on Jean Fashion's establishment through and within a counter- culture influences, the first chapter explores the counter-culture's background theory and how fashion has metamorphisized within the counter-culture. The second chapter explores the image of the jeans within the society of the youth and the general public. Finally in the fourth chapter, this study divides the images of Jean Fashion within the youth and the general population into classifications of Feminism, Eroticism, Dismantlementation. Thus, 1 came to the conclusion that the above stated theories have had great influence on the Jean Fashion Industry. The conclusion of this study are as follows: 1 Jeans are the representative article of clothing of unisex appeal which is the core characteristic of Feminism. Feminism, which surfaced coincidentally with the emergence of jeans in the 1850s, took charge of expressing the freedoms and the wills of women. 2. Jeans, being the representative article of Eroticism, have firmly entrenched its image in the young people's wardrobe through mass media such as movies, $\mu$ic, and commercials. 3. In the 90s the tendencies of Defacement and Dismantlementation of Jeans developed. In the Dismantlement tendencies of colors, the color blue foretells of the century's coming to an end, and blue also expresses the superiority of spirit and intelligence which transcends materialism.

• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제11권2호
• /
• pp.147-165
• /
• 1973

One of the characteristics of feudal society is the control of the dress and ornamentation which stand for various social classes and personal relationships. Throughout the Yi-Dynasty, certain forms of dress and ornamentation were controlled or prohibited by the government. For instance, there was a Ban on the use of gold and silver for ornaments and silks or satins for dresses, and the violator was subject to severe punishment according to the penal laws. This seems to have been done more for symbolism and the dignity of the various social ranks and powers than as an economic measure against foreign products. The use of yellow cloth, for instance, was once banned out of blind submission to the traditional practices in China, then the most powerful nation in Asia. The working classes were prohibited to use any silks of foreign production. This was done to discourage a spirit of wasteful luxury and the tendency to prefer the often higher quality foreign product. The government regulated the class of the traditional wedding ceremony, again as a means of both encouraging economy and reestablishing the distinctions between the classes. In spite of these attempts at control by the government a large trade in smuggled goods was still carried out. This had the effect of impeding the development of the clothing industry in the country.

• 국어문학
• /
• 제69권69호
• /
• pp.213-246
• /
• 2018

본 연구의 목적은 한국 근·현대 문학의 선각자로 활동해온 가람 이병기의문학의 근대적 측면을 밝혀서 그동안 널리 알려져 온 식민지 근대화론이 아닌, 한반도 내에서 이루어진 자생적 근대화론의 함의를 구체화하고 근·현대문단의 맥락들을 고려한 이병기 문학세계의 의의를 온전히 살피고자 하는 것이다. 이에 대한 가람 이병기의 근대의식을 첫째, 언어와 매체의 변화에 따른 근대 의식의 전환, 둘째 장르 변화에 대한 근대성의 인식, 셋째 향유주체의 변화에 따른 근대성의 개념과 인식에 따른 서민정신 순으로 고찰하고자 한다. 이로써 그동안 전통주의로만 인식되었던 가람의 문학과 학문세계, 사상에 대한 근대적 특징을 밝혀 식민지 근대화론을 극복한, 내재적 근대화론의 구체적 내용을 확보하여 한국근대문학의 출발기에 관한 교육내용을 새롭게 구성하고자 한다.

• 공연문화연구
• /
• 제39호
• /
• pp.69-96
• /
• 2019

북한은 혁명가극 이전의 가극을 선택적으로 보존했다. 이중 초기 고전 각색 가극은 1950년대 이후 남북한의 가극 장르 변화를 추적하는데 중요 단서를 제공한다. <금강산 팔선녀>, <춘향전>, <콩쥐팥쥐>, <온달>은 비현실적인 상황을 조정하고, 계급 문제를 제기하는 방향으로 각색되었다. 초기 고전 각색 가극에서 부각시킨 인민은 신분 격차와 상관없이 부지런히 일하고 애국심을 갖춘 이였다. 또한 부당한 착취에 대해 조직적인 투쟁을 함께하는 공동 구성원이기도 했다. 이는 노동과 개인 생활의 통일, 낡은 것의 파멸, 그 파멸을 촉진하는 투쟁을 지지하는 창작 독려의 성과였다. 선별 보존된 작품들은 극장에서 집중시킨 감각을 일상에서 유지시키는 일종의 모범 사례이기도 했다. 고전 각색 가극은 신분제도 반대, 국토 찬양, 긍정적인 근로 방향과 같은 국가 강령을 자연스레 관객에게 각인시킬 수 있었다. 하나의 작품이 무대화되면 소재, 주제, 음악, 운영방안 측면에서 평가를 거쳐 생존 여부가 판단되었다. 그 표징은 '김일성'의 관람 여부 및 방향성 제시였다. 김일성 일가의 수정 지시 사항을 받아들여 집단이 재창조하고, 해외 공연을 통해 선전하는 과정은 혁명가극의 극작 및 홍보 방식과 맞닿는다. 이렇게 선별된 가극은 인민, 여성, 문학 차원에서 스토리텔링화 되면서 모델이 되었다. 이렇게 북한 초기 고전 각색 가극은 공적인 교감과 음악정치 구축의 상관성을 보여주는 사례이다.