• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.95-105
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• 2015

This study investigated the color culture in the Japanese Medieval Age. The Japanese Medieval Age included the Kamakura period (1180-1333) and Muromachi period (1336-1573), and the leading group transitioned from the Kuge families to the Buke families. The taboos about colors from ancient times became nominal, and forbidden colors, such as purple, celadon, and red, became the colors of the samurai, leading to beautiful soldier gears that were unparalleled in history. In the Kamakura period, colors that conveyed a strong impression were created and preferred with the combination of a samurai's reasonable spirit and zen thoughts. The period was also called "the era of hari", and cross dyeing based on basic colors such as suou (red), ai (blue), and kuchinasi (yellow) was popular. In both the Kamakura and Muromachi periods, conspicuous and strong colors were sought for costumes, and embroidery was used with gold leaf, silver leaf, gold threads, silver threads, and background color. The colors of costume preferred by Buke men in the period included green, blue, and brown. In the characteristics of the kosode, the sugan and hitadare were used for men's formal dress, while kosode was used for the grooming of the working class. In these periods, additionally, the working class began to be socially engaged in actively wearing the one-layer kosode, which became popular, and the characteristics of the Japanese Medieval Age, during which functionality and practicality was valued, were also reflected in the dressing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.573-585
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• 1996

This study of counter-culture - the cultural background of the Jean Fashion of which express the consciousness and youthfulness of young - shows the various social, cultural developments and the direction of growth for the Jean industry Until now, the fashion trends flowed from the elite, upper-class minority to the general public : however, in the case of the Jean Fashion, it has spread inversely to the upper-class from the young people who have adopted the life-styles of the lower, middle class, working people. With the emphasis on Jean Fashion's establishment through and within a counter- culture influences, the first chapter explores the counter-culture's background theory and how fashion has metamorphisized within the counter-culture. The second chapter explores the image of the jeans within the society of the youth and the general public. Finally in the fourth chapter, this study divides the images of Jean Fashion within the youth and the general population into classifications of Feminism, Eroticism, Dismantlementation. Thus, 1 came to the conclusion that the above stated theories have had great influence on the Jean Fashion Industry. The conclusion of this study are as follows: 1 Jeans are the representative article of clothing of unisex appeal which is the core characteristic of Feminism. Feminism, which surfaced coincidentally with the emergence of jeans in the 1850s, took charge of expressing the freedoms and the wills of women. 2. Jeans, being the representative article of Eroticism, have firmly entrenched its image in the young people's wardrobe through mass media such as movies, $\mu$ic, and commercials. 3. In the 90s the tendencies of Defacement and Dismantlementation of Jeans developed. In the Dismantlement tendencies of colors, the color blue foretells of the century's coming to an end, and blue also expresses the superiority of spirit and intelligence which transcends materialism.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.147-165
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• 1973

One of the characteristics of feudal society is the control of the dress and ornamentation which stand for various social classes and personal relationships. Throughout the Yi-Dynasty, certain forms of dress and ornamentation were controlled or prohibited by the government. For instance, there was a Ban on the use of gold and silver for ornaments and silks or satins for dresses, and the violator was subject to severe punishment according to the penal laws. This seems to have been done more for symbolism and the dignity of the various social ranks and powers than as an economic measure against foreign products. The use of yellow cloth, for instance, was once banned out of blind submission to the traditional practices in China, then the most powerful nation in Asia. The working classes were prohibited to use any silks of foreign production. This was done to discourage a spirit of wasteful luxury and the tendency to prefer the often higher quality foreign product. The government regulated the class of the traditional wedding ceremony, again as a means of both encouraging economy and reestablishing the distinctions between the classes. In spite of these attempts at control by the government a large trade in smuggled goods was still carried out. This had the effect of impeding the development of the clothing industry in the country.

• Korean Language and Literature
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• v.69 no.69
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• pp.213-246
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• 2018

The subject of this study is the arrangement of the works for the publication of Garam Lee Byeong-gi's complete works and the direction for developing the study of Garam. The publication of Garam Lee Byeonggi's complete works is to investigate, collect, arrange, and publish all his works that he wrote during in his lifetime, that is, all his separated volumes and all materials that were published in newspapers and magazines. Garam Lee Byeong-gi's complete works will be published in October 2017. The volumes that will be published in Garam Lee Byeong-gi's complete works are two sijo collections, a volume of sijo theory, a volume of Korean literature history, a volume of an outline of Korean literature, eight annotated books, six translation books and the selections, 11 textbooks, two bibliography, one history book for children, the handwritten diaries (49 notebooks), and one notebook of archaic words. They are in total 35 kinds of books. Also, if about 850 writings published in over 118 newspapers, magazines, and scholarly journals and 47 school songs are added, all materials amount to about 930 pieces of writing. These vast and different works will be printed in compilation which will be made up

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.39
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• pp.69-96
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• 2019

North Korea has conserved operas in a selective manner. The subject matters of operas recorded in the history of North Korea can be divided into classical tales, translated foreign works, Korean War and war against Japan. Operas that adapted folk classics of the 1950s are considered valuable materials to verify the changes of genres posterior to division of regime between North and South Korea. The officially confirmed works include "Kumgangsan Palseonnyeo (Gyeonwoo Jiknyeo)," "Chunhyangjeon." "Kongjwi Patjwi (Kotsin)," "Ondal," and "Geumnaneui Dal." These works had gone through recreation in terms of realistic situation setting, abolition of class difference, adjustment of social rank and punishment of evil while the base lies in the original folk classics. People emphasized in adapted folk operas are described as those who are hard-working souls without giving importance of difference of social rank, content with the currently living space, devoted to their parents and full of patriotic spirit, and members of community who participate in organized fights against unfair exploitation. This was the fruit of encouragement of work creation supporting union between labor and individual life, destruction of old things and fight promoting this destruction. Folk operas of South and North Korea posterior to Korean War have similarities in that both deal with a love story transcending social ranks and the concomitant conflicts and they focus on the audience who enjoy the operas. Nonetheless, they are different in that this love in North Korea became a tool of educating people wished by the regime, while it became an object of securing the audience by adding the tragic element to love in South Korea. North Korean operas of the initial stage are characterized by playwriting method emphasizing difficult life and compensation of common people, realistic stage expression, accentuation of melody and agreement between notes and lyrics. This was efforts designed to continuously lead senses concentrated from the theater to everyday life of people. In effect, this is in line with the playwriting method of revolutionary operas. Adapted folk operas were subject matters ideal for easily approaching the audience and leaving them good memories at the same time. To realize socialist realism, they went through an experiment of reviewing "people" through the classic folk operas. The possibility of continuation of a work was determined by thorough evaluation after carrying out an experiment in terms of subject matters, theme, music and operation plans from the moment of which the work was on the stage. The sign consisted in the possibility of visit of "Kim Il-sung" to appreciate the work and presentation of directionality. By proposing the clear directionality of which hard-working people who deny social status system can be duly compensated, it encouraged the audience who saw the opera to voluntarily put this in practice. Thus, operas established the directionality through selective processes for creating public communion even before revolutionary operas.