• 복식
• /
• 제26권
• /
• pp.175-206
• /
• 1995

The costume culture of China is as old and varied as her long history. As China is a multiracial nation and consists of fifty-six min-ority races including Han race, there are not only fifty-six different costumes in China but each races' costume habit is very different. Therefore, Chinese penninsula can be considered an enor-mous exhibition center of the costumes. This study undertook on the assumption that the costumes' mainstream of Korea and east-northern Asia as well as that of China could be examined by investigating the minority races' costumes in the east-and west-northern areas of China. The process of evolution of the costume of a particular people, country or area is subject not only to constraints related to geography such as climate, topography or local products but is also affected by numorous environmental influences including cultural, economic, social and even pol-itical ones in terms of the selection of material, styling, color and standard of tailoring. In other words, things like philosophy of life, religious be-lief, aesthetic outlook, moral code, class system, degree of affluence, and cultural exchange will all be reflected directly or indirectly by features of a people's or country's style costume. Of course, there are several factors affecting to the style of costume of the minority people in China. However, the only three factors-geo-graphical and environmental, production method, and religious belef-will be touched in this study. First of all, the geograghical and eenviron-mental factor would be the decisive one because the costume should be designed to overcome the constraints of climate and geographical environ-ments. Accordingly, each race has an unique style of costume. The costume of the minority races in the northern parts are loose and wide, and made of warm furs. For instance, Mongolian robe has the quality of anti-wind, anti-cold and warmness, and the width of a sleeve is narrow and long. Secondly, the costume style can be said to be limited by the production pattern, when the geo-graphical environment was affected to decide the costume style, the production pattern was together affected to it . In case of Mongolian robe, they should satisfy the dual condition as the practical function. One is the condition that they should be fitted to the climate, and the other is the condition that they should be suit-able to the nomadic life. Mongolian robes are suitable to the nomadic peoples because they are designed for not only overcoming the cold wind and weather but being used as the bedquit at night. The costumes of Hoche people was made of the skin of the fish and wild animals because of their main means of living being fishing and hunting. Accordingly, their costumes are dur-able, warm and water-proof. Finally, the style of the costume is affected by the religious belief. In other words, the pattern in fashion is closely related with the religious be-lief or ancestor worship and nature worship. Ac-cordingly, the symbols of these worship are often emerged in the decoration of the costume. The design of costume of the people in the northern areas of China is very simple. It is related with their monotheism. On the other hand, the costumes of twen쇼 minority races in the east-northern parts of China can be devided into three racial groups such as the long robes of Man people and Mongols, Tunics of the peoples in the west-northern areas, and the pants and jackets of Hoche people. The minorority races all has not only the unique costume habit but their costumes are also related with their living style and production means.

• 복식
• /
• 제35권
• /
• pp.45-66
• /
• 1997

This thesis is a study on the kaftan styles iin Asia. The purpose of he study was to examine the origin o the kaftan concentrating on the history and cultural backgrounds of nomads in he Western Central and North Eastern Asia. Secondly for more thorough study and expla-nation on how these kaftans contributed to East-West trade along the silk road. wall paintings and miniature illuminations along Oasis roads persia and Saracen period were compared, Also real kaftans were compared and analyzed the characteristics of Western (Turkey palestine) Central(Kazakistan Uz-bekistan Tadzhistan Qyrgyztan Turkmenistan) and the North Eastern Asian(Mongol) area. Thirdly an attempt has been made to provide the North Eastern Asian(Mongol) area. Thirdly an attempt has been made to provide the style classifications according to their peculiarities of the various kaftans as well as how kaftan gave important influences on custumes of different religious sects. The kaftan is a long coat-like garment with front openings fastened with long sash having an extra long sleeves which were worn by middle and high class nomadics throughout the West Central and North Eastern Asia This type of kaftans were a basic clothing for nomadics since they were constantly moving fromone to another areas on their horse back riding. They also wore tight trousers with boots. Kaftans seem to be originated from nomads of Steppe around B.C. 800 On B. C 400 west asian areas such as Solokha Kul-oba Kulogan had pictures sculptues on vases showing kaftans of half coat type length with front opening tied with band. Also the materials used were the products of animals such as wool or felt with animal designs showing Scythian nomads. In the North Eastern Asia Hsiung-Nu were active in Kazakha North Altai and Mongol The Clothing and fabrics exfavated near Noin-ula Pazyrik showed many samples of kaftan with trousers with other interment be-longings with a corpse around B.C 300 to A. D 100 when trades along the silk roads were proven by many historians Kaftans excavated in this area wore red front opening silk materials which suggesting settling down of nomads. in he central Asia Dol-gull near Altai mountain area were mainly miners who later had many trades with Persia and Bizantine. After Dol-gull Bezeklik temple Samarkant Kizil cow Budda sculture wall paintings of Astana tomb showed typical kaftan of this re-gion. These were both hip covered length as well as long coat with narrow sleeves. Es-pecially they had different color band fron the main kaftan with grogeously and splendously designed silk. In perusia during A. D 1400 to 1600 minia-ture illumination showed kaftan as a high class symbol more than clothing purpose. They had best quality silk with extra long sleeves draping and had a layers of kaftans one on top of anther as a symbol of wealth These Kaftans with different colors and designs were even more beautiful with their effective combinations and contrast of colors. On the other hand the lower class common people and servants wore simple kaftan with the front part of the kaftan were slipped into the belt in order to be more active and con-venient to work, The real kaftans discovered at Topkapi Saray palace of Turkey from A. D 1300 to 1900 were also compared. These kaftans were very numerous in numbers as well as designs The materials and designs used were also vari-ous such as Chinese to Italian silk. The shaped and pattern itself were not much different from the previous nomad's Kaftans. The Palestian kaftans remained were from the beginning of 19th and 20th century. Since this area is hot and dry desert they used black and navy blue colors mostly in order to exclude the sun lights. The patterns used were similar to Nomads and Bedouin with cross stiches and patch work decorations. In the central Asia they had similar life style and natural environmental cnditions with Turkish tribe which resulted in similar kaftan styles as nomads. Mongols conserved basic patterns of kaftan since Cinggis Khan with deep folding in order to keep warm. At last the kaftans studided in this thesis were classified in to four such as half coat long coat jacket and vest style. A pattern used in the Central Asia were zigzag and ani-mal design whereas in the West Asia were floral plant arabesk and circle pattern. As I discussed previously kaftan styles of nomads in the Asia maintained its basic pat-tern throughout the history except slight changes in color gusset sleeve shapes. These slight changes were made according to the need to adapt the need of environmental natu-ral conditions, The reason for aboriginality of kaftan in Asia was its simplicity and con-venience Most interesting fact is that for all these years Mongols are still wearing kaftan in their life ensuring us that they art the preserves of old kaftan. Since this thesis dealt enormous Asian regions I had a limitation of not being able to cover the Far Esatern asian areas such as Korea China and Japan how these kaftans were influenced in their clothing history as well as Eastern and Western culture. This topic along with the studies on materials and designs of patterns of kaftan will be another research project in the future.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제1권2호
• /
• pp.46-54
• /
• 1997

The purpose of this study is to understand women's wear manufacturing industries. First, the study was to investigate the present production systems and how much the automatic facility are by comparing them. This study enhanced more efficient, stable, and suitable work line. This intern will direct the way in which automatic facilities will be created. Second, through this study on the general character of the inspectors, the ratio of impaired goods, and the reasons for unsatisfactory goods, I intended to find out a way to decrease the impaired goods and to produce competitive and high quality goods. The results of the survey can be summarized as follows; 1. The result of the research on the automatic industrial facilities shows that the majority of the factories (77.4%) are 40% below the automatic facility rate. The reasons for this according to order are that was a deficit in money, no reason for expensive machines, and lack of the technique and the number of workers required to handle the machines. 2. At this time, the most required equipments are shown according to its importance; automatic sewing machine, automatic cutting machine, automatic spreading machine, and finishing & pressing machine. So in the women's wear manufacturing industries, they think that they need more automatic cutting machine, automatic spreading machine in the cutting field rather than high price automatic machine in the sewing field such as pattern former, pocket welting, automatic sleeve connecting machine and automatic label connecting machine. 3. The result of the research in the goods quality shows that the average impaired rate is 12.7% at the first inspection. In addition the average rate for complete impaired rate is 1.52%. The line system shows that it has a impaired rate that is double the rate of the pair system. Because of this, the industries plan to combine the line system and pair system to create an improved and suitable production system which can boost the quality and productivity of the goods. 4. The fabric is the main point of the impaired goods. The factors of the impaired goods in manufacturing are the lack of mental abilities of the worker, impaired fabrics and a lack of cooperation in the working system. Furthermore, there is a lack of technique for new material. 5. To prohibit impaired goods in manufacturing, there need to be a way to educate the workers and to enhance the workers' mind on the productive goods. Also there need to increase in the investments of automatic production machines. Finally there need to be a standardized working line. Therefore, there need to be an improvement on the management of the production of goods, the development of technique and an increase in the education for the workers, with this there will be a decrease in impaired goods, and an increase in better quality of goods to enforce the domestic apparel industries.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제2권4호
• /
• pp.93-101
• /
• 1998

Knit products which had been limited only to underwear, recently became popularized, fashionized and highly classified covering even outer garments such as sportswear like golfwear, woman's dress, and man' s suit. As fashion cycle is getting shorter and the more a nation advanced prefers knit to woven fabrics knit industry has a very bright prospect, particularly woman's knit which is sensitive to fashion can be said as a fashion product with high value added. This study is to grasp the physical properties of stitch which are fundamental to the development of knit products. For this purpose, 2/20s of 100% wool were woven by the author of this study to basic plain stitch, rib stitch, varied transfer stitch, and float stitch on a SEMASEIKI cross knitter 7G to test the physical properties, and the result was as follows; 1. As for the relation between knit stitch and rate of extension recovery, rate of extension recovery was higher in the course direction than in the wale direction of three stitches except transfer stitch; rib stitch showed the highest rate of extension recovery in the course direction while float stitch showed the highest rate of extension recovery in the wale direction. 2. As for the relation between knit stitch and bursting strength elastic rib stitch showed higher bursting strength to indicate elasticity is an important factor of bursting strength and float stitch showed higher bursting strength too to indicate that the floating yarn on the surface plays a role of support. 3. As for the relation between knit stitch and air permeability perforated transfer stitch showed the lowest air permeability to prove that the size of perforation affects on the air permeability a great deal. 4. As for the relation between knit stitch and warmth retaining rib stitch through two lined needle bar showed the highest degree. The reason the warmth of perforated transfer stitch didn't decrease much was because the perforation wasn't big enough and content of air increased from the unevenness of the perforated parts through stitch variation. Based upon this result, each stitch can be characteristically summarized as follows; plain stitch showed a stable condition of knit cloth in four kinds of physical property test. And rib stitch is proper to tighten the edge of sleeve or clothe making use of its excellent extension recovery and to make socks for the highest bursting strength and warmth retaining. In the case of transfer stitch, seasonable designs can be taken by controlling the size of loop. Considering the pleasantness, underwear should be made of stitches with good air permeability float stitch was revealed to have color and pattern effects and a great bursting strength. This study has limitations in the aspect that it dealed with a small part of various knit stitches and the items of physical property test were not enough. The author of this study hopes that further studies would make deeper understandings about knit stitch based on more varied stitches and physical property tests ultimately to contribute to the development of fashionable designs proper to maximize the usage, function and originality.

• Journal of Chest Surgery
• /
• 제41권1호
• /
• pp.68-73
• /
• 2008

배경: 원발성 비소세포성 폐암에서 종격동 림프절 전이는 중요한 예후인자 중의 하나이다. 이 연구는 원발성 비소세포성 폐암으로 수술 받은 환자에서 폐엽에 따른 종격동 림프절 전이 양상을 파악하여 적극적인 종격동 림프절 절제술을 시행하고 그로 말미암아 병기 결정에 도움이 되고자 시행하였다. 대상 및 방법: 1998년 1월부터 2005년 12월까지 원발성 폐암으로 완전한 종격동 림프절 절제술과 함께 근치적 폐 절제술을 시행받았던 293명의 환자를 대상으로 의무기록을 토대로 후향적 연구를 시행하였다. 환자의 평균나이는 $63.0{\pm}8.3$세($37{\sim}88$세)였으며 남자가 220명(75.1%)이었다. 원발성 종양과 림프절의 분류는 Mountain등이 발표한 TNM 병기를 근거로 하였으며 조직학적 분류는 WHO 분류를 기초로 하였다. 통계 처리는 Fisher's exact test와 chi-square test를 사용하였고 p 값이 0.05 미만일 경우 의의 있는 결과로 받아들였다. 결과: 전체 환자 중에서 폐엽절제술은 180명, 폐이엽절제술은 50명, 소매폐엽절제슬은 10명, 전폐절제술은 53명에서 시행되었다. 수술 후 폐종양의 병리학적 진단은 선암(adenocarcinoma)이 124명, 편평세포암(squamous cell carcinema)이 138명, 선편평세포암(adenos-quamous cell carcinoma)이 14명이었으며 카르시노이드종양(carcinoid tumor) 1명, 대세포암(large cell carcinoma) 8명, 암육종(carcinosarcoma) 1명, 점액표피양암(mucoepiderrnoid carcinoma) 2명, 미분류된 암이 5명이었다. 술 후 TNM 병기는 IA가 51명, IB가 98명, IIA가 9명, IIB가 41명, IIIA가 71명, IIIB가 16명, IV가 6명이었다. 전체 환자 중 N2 이상의 병기를 보인 환자는 25.9%(76명)이었고 그 중 우상엽의 병변인 경우 4번 림프절로의 전이가 가장 많았으며 좌상엽의 병변인 경우 4번과 5번, 나머지 폐엽에서는 7번 림프절로의 전이가 가장 많았으나 통계적 의의는 없었고 도약 전이가 전체 환자 중12.3% (36명)에서 발견되었다. 결론: 원발성 비소세포성 폐암의 폐엽에 따른 종격동 림프절 전이 양상은 뚜렷한 규칙이 없으며 도약 전이도 12.3%에서 발생되었으므로 완전한 종격동 림프절 절제술만이 정확한 병기를 결정하는데 도움이 되고 환자의 예후를 결정하는데 중요한 역할을 한다고 생각한다.