• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.1
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• pp.87-96
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• 2023

This study was conducted to discover substances that regulate skin surface acidification using human epidermal keratinocyte cell lines, and to investigate their effects on the moisturizing ability and skin barrier function of the stratum corneum. Prunella vulgaris (P. vulgaris) is an herb widely distributed in Northwest Africa and North America that has been studied for its anti-apoptotic, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory effects. However, research on the regulation of NHE1 expression and the restoration of skin barrier function has not been conducted. Analysis of P. vulgaris revealed the presence of rosmarinic acid and caffeic acid as active ingredients, which were tested for toxicity in human epidermal keratinocyte cell lines (HaCaT), and showed no toxic effects were observed at high concentarion (100 ㎍/mL or 100 µM). It is known that sodium-hydrogen ion exchange pumps (NHE1) decrease in expression in aging skin to maintain the acidic pH of the stratum corneum, and it is hypothesized that this decrease plays an important role in the impaired restoration of skin barrier function in aging skin. P. vulgaris extract and caffeic acid increased the expression of NHE1 in keratinocytes, increased the expression of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) precursor filaggrin and ceramide synthesis enzyme serine palmitoyl transferase (SPT). In addition, P. vulgaris and caffeic acid decreased the extracellular pH of keratinocytes, indicating a direct effect on skin pH regulation. Taken together, these results suggest that P. vulgaris and caffeic acid can regulate skin pH through NHE1 modulation, and may help to restore skin barrier function by increasing NMF and ceramide synthesis. These results show the possibility that honeysuckle and caffeic acid can have a positive effect on skin health, and can be the basis for the development of new skin protection products using them.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.2
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• pp.183-192
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• 2023

In this study, we investigated the antioxidant activity, anti-inflammatory activity, whitening, moisturizing, wound-healing, cell proliferation and cell protective effects of 70% EtOH and hot water extract from Scutellaria baicalensis. For the anti-oxidative test, the 70% EtOH and hot water extract showed DPPH radical scavenging activities. In the anti-inflammatory tests, 70% EtOH and hot water extract inhibited the production of NO, pro-inflammatory cytokine (IL-6) and prostaglandin (PGE₂). In addition, it was confirmed that the 70% EtOH and hot water extract inhibited the melanin production, and increased production of hyaluronic acid (HA), a moisturizing factor. As a result of cell migration and proliferation assay, 70% EtOH extract promoted the cell growth in HaCaT cell. Additionally, 70% EtOH and hot water extract showed cell protective effects against UVB, and 70% EtOH extract also showed cell protective effects agianst blue light. Based on these results, it is concluded that the 70% EtOH and hot water extract from Scutellaria baicalensis could be potentially applicable as anti-oxdiative, anti-inflammation, whitening, moisturizing, wound-healing, cell proliferation and cell protective effects in cosmetic natural materials.

• Journal of Physiology & Pathology in Korean Medicine
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.291-297
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• 2018

The purpose of pilot clinical trial is to evaluate the efiicacy and safety of Needle-Embedding acupuncture therapy on TEWL(Transepidermal Water Loss) and Skin hydration. A total of 24 human who visited Dongshin Oriental Medical Center from December 1st, 2016 to July 31st, 2017 were included in the pilot clinical trial. Needle-Embedding acupuncture therapy performed at Gokji(LI11). We observed change of TEWL(Transepidermal Water Loss), Skin hydration before and after Needle-Embedding acupuncture therapy. In the primary endpoint, index of TEWL showed a statistically insignificant decline ($8.5{\pm}2.12{\rightarrow}7.8{\pm}1.53g/h/m^2$). Index of skin hydration showed a statistically significant result ($38.2{\pm}6.77{\rightarrow}36.8{\pm}6.64$). To evaluate the safety, Adverse events and Vital sign check were conducted and there were no problem. And when the physical response, self-awareness, skin system, musculoskeletal pain, and other abnormal responses were assessed 60 minutes and 24 hours and 7 days after Needle-Embedding acupuncture therapy at Gokji(LI11) for stability assessment, Adverse events disappeared during a pilot clinical trial. According to the above pilot clinical trial, it is suggested Needle-Embedding acupuncture therapy were effective for Skin moisturizing and safe.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.10-18
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• 2002

In this study, it should be mentioned that Lipid-LCG can be prepared with the main compound of hydrogenated lecithin in oil-in water emulsion. The results of its physical property and stability are as follows. First, the best suitable compositions of Lipid-LCG are made from 4.0wt% of the hydrogenated lecithin, 4.0wt% of cetostearyl alcohol as emulsifier and gelling agent, 3.0wt% of butylene glycol and 2.0wt% glycerin as moisturizers, 3.0wt% of cyclomethicone, 3.0wt% of isononyl-isononanoate, 3.0wt% of capric/caprylic triglycerides, 3.0wt% of macadamia oil as emollients. Second, As the optimum conditions to form Lipid-LCG, which figured out 6.0 ${\pm}$ 1.0 for pH level, 32kg/mm, min for hardness to make a .essence to be formed the ternary phase of liquid crystal(multi-lamellar type). Third, as the analytical result of this system, it obtained that particle size is $1{\sim}8{\mu}m$ level, and is certified with it at 400 and 1,000 magnifications by microscope. The stability of Lipid-LCG is very stable on condition of a low temperature ($4^{\circ}C$), a room temperature ($25^{\circ}C$) and a high temperature ($40^{\circ}C$), which is not to be split in for a long time(for 3-month). We produced our own moisturizing essence, which has a good affinity to skin by means of this system.

• The Journal of Korean Medicine Ophthalmology and Otolaryngology and Dermatology
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.1-20
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• 2021

Objective : The object of this study was to assess the efficacy of hydrolysate from Phellinus igniarius(HPI) on anti-aging activities in vitro measurement and mini clinical study performed on 5 subjects. Methods : To evaluate skin anti-aging efficacy of HPI, 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl(DPPH) radical scavenging activity, type I collagen synthesis, inhibition of nitric oxide(NO) production, inhibiton of tyrosinase, hyaluronan synthase(HAS)2, 3 mRNA expression were measured in vitro. Also, mini clinical study of skin hydration was performed on 5 subjects using HPI in distilled water(DW) and 1,3-butylene glycol diluted solution(30% in DW). Results : 1. DPPH radical scavenging activity of HPI was increased in a dose-dependant. 2. Type I collagen synthesis was increased in 50, 100 and 500㎍/㎖ of HPI. 3. NO production was not inhibited in all concentrations of HPI. 4. Tyrosinase was inhibited in 500, 1000, 2500 and 5000㎍/㎖ of HPI. 5. HAS2 mRNA expression was increased in 50, 100, 150 and 200㎍/㎖ of HPI, HAS3 mRNA expression was increased in 100, 150, and 200㎍/㎖ of HPI. 6. In the mini clinical study of 5 subjects, there was a difference in skin hydration over time for each solutions, but it was not statistically siginificant. Conclusions : HPI increased DPPH radical scavenging activity, type I collagen synthesis, and HAS2, HAS3 mRNA expression. HPI also suppressed tyrosinase. The findings of this study suggest that HPI can be used as an skin anti-aging material.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.315-324
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• 2015

In this study, we prepared liquid crystal emulsion composed of amphiphilic substance $C_{14-22}$ alcohol, $C_{12-20}$ alkyl glucoside, behenyl alcohol and studied liquid crystal emulsion of properties and in vitro skin permeation. The results of formulation experiments, the clear liquid crystalline structure was observed in the ratio of $C_{14-22}$ alcohol 0.8%, $C_{12-20}$ alkyl glucoside 3.2%, behenyl alcohol 4% in the formulation. The results of physical property measurements, the viscosity of liquid crystal emulsion and O/W emulsion applied as a control group was respectively $1871.26{\sim}1.15Pa{\cdot}s$, $1768.69{\sim}1.14Pa{\cdot}s$ and the shear stress of O/W emulsion was 178.68 ~ 909.18 Pa, that of liquid crystal emulsion was 190.45 ~ 919.38 Pa. The storage modulus of O/W emulsion was 3428.53 ~ 9157.45 Pa, that of liquid crystal emulsion was 4487.82 ~ 8195.59 Pa. The tan (delta) value of O/W emulsion which means a ratio of viscosity to elasticity was 0.43 ~ 0.19, and that of liquid crystal emulsion was 0.23 ~ 0.25. The water content value on the skin for liquid crystal emulsion was significantly higher from 1 h to 6 h compared with that of O/W emulsion and the transepidermal water loss on the skin was significantly superior in skin moisture loss suppression from 30 min to 4 h compared with that of O/W emulsion. The results of skin permeation using glycyrrhizic acid, the result of skin permeation amount of liquid crystal emulsion for 24 h was $64.58{\mu}g/cm^2$, that of O/W emulsion was $37.07{\mu}g/cm^2$, that of butylene glycol solution was $41.05{\mu}g/cm^2$. Hourly permeability results, it is showed that skin penetration effect of the liquid crystal emulsion increases after 8 h. These results suggest that liquid crystal emulsions are effective for skin moisturizing effect and function as potential efficacy ingredient delivery system for the transdermal delivery.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.40 no.2
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• pp.195-201
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• 2014

Body fluid has been studied for diverse fields like Ringer's solutions, artificial joint fluids, cell growth culture media because it plays a crucial role in controlling body temperature and acts as a solvent for diverse metabolite processes in the body and delivery media of mineral, energy source, hormone, signal and drug from and to cell via blood or lymphatic vessel by osmotic pressure or active uptake. Stratum corneum containing extracellular lipids and NMF (natural moisturizing factor) absorbs atmospheric water residing outside of cells and utilize it to hydrate inside of their own. This process is related to skin barrier function. In this study, we conducted the cell viability test with Cell Bio Fluid $Sync^{TM}$, which mimicks body fluids including amino acids, peptides, and monosaccharides to strengthen skin barrier, and the clinical skin improvement test with cosmetics containing Cell Bio Fluid $Sync^{TM}$. In the cell viability test, HaCaT cell was treated with PBS for 3 hours, followed by the treatment of a cell culture medium (DMEM) and isotonic solution (PBS) and Cell Bio Fluid $Sync^{TM}$ for 3 hours each. Then, MTT assay and image analysis were conducted. In the clinical skin improvement test, twenty-one healthy women participated. Participants applied cosmetics containing Cell Bio Fluid $Sync^{TM}$ on their face for a week and evaluated the skin hydration, skin roughness, brightness and evenness. All measurements were conducted after they washed off their face and took a rest under the constant temperature ($22{\pm}2^{\circ}C$) and constant humidity conditions ($50{\pm}5%$) for 20 minutes. All the data were analyzed by SPSS (version 21) software program. Results showed that Cell Bio Fluid $Sync^{TM}$ improved both the cell viability and in vivo skin conditions such as skin hydration, roughness, brightness and evenness.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.33 no.11
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• pp.905-914
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• 2023

To evaluate the effectiveness of the skin barrier improvement of lactic acid (LA) and gluconolactone (GL), the expression of filaggrin, loricrin, hyaluronic acid (HA), hyaluronan syhthase-2 (HAS2), and aquaporine-3 (AQP3) in keratinocytes, and the moisture content and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by clinical trials were evaluated. The expression levels of filaggrin and locricrin, which are the main factors affecting the proper functioning of skin barrier function, and HA, HAS2, and AQP3, which are skin moisturizing-related proteins measured by quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction (qRT-PCR) and western blotting. The results showed that the expression levels of the factors that decreased by H2O2 treatment were significantly increased by LA, GL, and a mixture of LA and GL at the mRNA and protein levels (p<0.05). The nanoemulsion containing a mixture of LA and GL was prepared using the emulsion inversion method, and the average particle size was 299.9 ± 0.287 nm. After measuring the TEWL of nanoemulsion using Vapometer, it was found that TEWL significantly decreased by 15.53% and 26.73% after two weeks and four weeks of product use, respectively, compared to TEWL before product use (p<0.001). Similarly, the skin moisture content of the nanoemulsion significantly increased by 15.40% and 26.59% after two weeks and four weeks of product use, respectively, compared to skin moisture content before product use (p<0.001). Therefore, the skin barrier function and moisturizing effect of a mixture of LA and GL are shown by increasing the moisture content and decreasing the TEWL by increasing the expression of filaggrin, loricrin, HA, HAS2, and AQP3. This suggests the possibility for the development of functional cosmetic ingredients in the future.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.98-141
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• 2003

Lip chapping is a serious cosmetics problem, though remedies other than moisturizing have not been proposed. We investigated changes in the surface configurations of lip corneocytes and increased CD activity and improved chapping severity. Our results suggest that lip chapping can be activities of desquamation-regulating proteinases associated with lip chapping. Using scanning electron microscopy, villus-like projections were observed on the inner surfaces of most corneocytes from normal lips, whereas those with flatter surface were predominant in chapped lips. Further, cell surface area increased with the severity of lip chapping. Cathepsin D (CD)-like and chymotrypsin-like proteinase, which are also present in skin as desquamation-regulating proteinases, were detected in lip corneocytes, though only CD activity was found to decrease in severely chapped lips. Hydration was also lower in areas of lip chapping. Sequential topical application of apricot extract essence characterized as similar to senile xerosis rather than dry skin such as winter xerosis, as it shows a delayed transition of corneocytes through the stratum corneum, and the reduced CD activity may be one of the mechanisms that is further decreased by low hydration. We propose that an enhancement of both CD activity and lip moisture may be effective to improve lip chapping.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.417-430
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• 2003

A new method was developed to prepare microcapsules involving hydrophobic components. A totally new "silicone-resin-polypeptide" was used as the wall materials. The polypeptide was made by hydrolysis of collagen and silk protein and so on, and that was combined with silicone. This microcapsule was easily prepared from silicone-resin-polypeptide in water solution. The ratio of encapsulation in the microcapsule was not only high level as 90％, which had never been reached, but also the particle size could be controlled to obtain very small size (average particle size: 2${\mu}{\textrm}{m}$). Moreover, these microcapsules were resistant to high shearing forces and were stable over a long time period. This stable microcapsule was not crushed in pressure with finger spreading, so the core materials hardly touch the skin directly. Application in cosmetics by using microcapsule involving UV absorbents (2-ethylhexy1-4-methoxycinnamate (OMC) and 4-tert-butyl-4' -methoxydibenzoyl-methane (BMDBM)) was examined. It was possible to apply organic UV absorbents in water-rich formulations without any surfactant by using this microcapsule. This formulation demonstrated a good moisturizing and soft skin feel. Therefore, the microcapsule was applied to hair care products. As a result, the sunscreen hair lotion with microcapsule was able to prevent from damaging and decoloring of hair color by UV rays. As just, it was suggested that this microcapsules were be widely applied in cosmetics.cosmetics.