• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09b
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• pp.286-293
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• 2003

In cosmetic formulations, texture plays a key role in ingredient choice and formulation optimization. But texture parameters are often measured by sensorial analysis in the last stages of formulation development. Rheology or texture analysis, used separately, has the benefit of characterizing the behavior of raw materials (e.g. polymers) and controlling and predicting the stability of formulations. SEPPIC has developed rheology and texture analysis protocols to obtain a better understanding of the influence of raw materials on the cosmetic texture of formulations. When used in combination, these two methodologies are complementary and provide useful data regarding the impact of raw material choice on all the development steps: manufacturing procedure, formulation stability, skin feeling.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09b
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• pp.149-162
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• 2003

Moisturizing the skin is one of the most important functions of skincare cosmetics, because water plays a significant role in keeping the skin healthy. There are various humectants including polyol (glycerin and 1,3-butylene glycol), water-soluble polymers, and botanical extracts. It is well known that the increased amount of polyol in lotion for obtaining high moisturizing effect gives a sticky feeling to the skin. Therefore, a few humectants that can give high moisturizing effect without a sticky feeling for lotion formula is available. On the other hand, oil-based lipstick is well known to have a difficulty to contain a large amount of hydrophilic humectants, because the humectants is unable to be mixed well into oil-based lipsticks and give the lips a peculiar taste. There are newly developed humectants, polyoxyethylene/polyoxypropylene dimethyl ether (EPDME) that can solve these problems describable above. EPDME is a random copolymer of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. EPDME gives a low sticky feeling with a high moisturizing effect when it is used in lotion. As a remarkable character, EPDME can show not only a preventing effect on rough and dry skin, but also a improving effect upon the use for 1-4 weeks. EPDME can show a synergistic effect with glycerin on preventing to rough and dry skin. Since EPDME can be dissolved in oil-based formulation and used as an ingredient of lipsticks, EPDME can give a moisturizing effect that allows lip to be healthy condition. EPDME can also give no peculiar taste even upon the use of a large amount. EPDME is a useful cosmetic ingredient that can show a good skin care effect in both water-based formula and oil-based formula. EPDME of which polarity can be controllable is expected to be used for various cosmetic applications in near future.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.153-157
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• 2007

Mockeoseuk(China fossil) contains the various kinds of minerals and radiates far infrared light. In order to apply mockeoseuk to the cosmetic formulation, hybridization technique was adapted and modified by selecting a spherical silicone powder as substrate. The resultant composite improved the physical properties such as skin feeling and apparent color and still sustained the efficacy of mockeoseuk. In a clinical test, the cosmetic formulation with 10 wt% mockeoseuk composite raised the temperature of facial skin through enhancement of skin blood flow.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.1478-1486
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• 2018

Liquid crystals offer plenty of useful activities as improving the stability of emulsion, increasing moisturizing power, drug release, improving skin feeling and visual effect for cosmetics fields. In order to prepare stable semi-transparent gel emulsion, liquid crystal emulsification method was used. The emulsion stabilities of systems containing glycerin, fatty alcohols, surfactants, water and oil were investigated at various temperatures as time passed. The stabilities of all emulsions were evaluated by means of a polarizing microscope, SEM, rheometer, colorimeter and DSC. Even though the samples stored at $50^{\circ}C$ thermostatic chamber were occurred the reduction of hardness, turbidity and ${\Delta}H$ and the peak shift, the semi-transparent gel emulsion was very stable without separation between water and oils phase in emulsion.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.339-347
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• 2015

This study is to evaluate moisturizing effect and durability of UV A/B blocking activity with multiple (W/O/W) emulsion system. Most of the sun protective products come to be hot issue having both high SPF and long-lasting activity as using special products when is going out, mountain climbing and sports. Also, many consumers prefer the products which have the excellent waterproofing activity of sun care cosmetics as well as the non-sticky feeling that carried out the study of the sensorial science and texture preference. Therefore, development of the specific formulation using this multiple (W/O/W) emulsion technology, it has O/W type hydro skin feel having soft and moist texture when it is treated on the skin. Finally, this formulation is instantly changed to W/O type feel after adsorbed into the skin. The purpose of this study is to get high SPF lasting effect having high water resistance tactivity with high functional multiple (W/O/W) emulsion cream. We used major ingredients, UV-B absorbers were selected with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl-p-methoxycinnamate, ethylhexylsalicylate, and octocrylene, UV-A absorbers were selected with butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxy phenyltriazine. SPF effect of O/W type cream was 34.1. SPF effect of W/O/W type cream was 40.6 (increased about 19%). Water resistance effect after 4 hours, SPF effect of O/W type cream was 3.6 (quickly drop down). SPF effect of W/O/W type cream having 81.0 % waterproofing effect was 32.7 (decreased about SPF 7.9). Moisturizing effect of O/W cream at first was superior comparing multiple emulsion. But after 3 hours quickly was drop-down. Moisturizing effect of multiple emulsion was high comparing O/W type and other sun block creams after 4 hours was constantly maintaining water-content.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.199-208
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• 2019

This study reports water-resistant oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion-based sunscreening formulations prepared using a poly(ethylene glycol)-poly(${\varepsilon}$-caprolactone)-poly(ethylene glycol) (PEG-PCL-PEG) triblock polymeric surfactant. As a result of a variety of outdoor recreational activities such as swimming and hiking, consumer needs for development of advanced water-resistant sunscreen formulations are increasing. Water-resistant sunscreens are mostly based on water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions, because they should not be wiped off by water or sweat. However, the W/O emulsion formulations have a disadvantage in that the feeling of use is oily and difficult to remove. On the other hand, the O/W emulsion formulations are excellent in achieving the better skin feel as well as the easier removal. However, it is difficult to provide the O/W emulsion formulations with the water-repelling performance, since re-emulsification likely occurs upon getting touch with water. To solve this problem, this study proposes a O/W emulsion-based sunscreen formulation, a triblock polymeric surfactant having relatively high interfacial tension HLB value (~ 10). This allows the sunscreen formulations to exhibit the improved water repellence function by preventing their re-emulsification. The sunscreen formation system prepared in this study would be useful for diversification of functional sunscreen products, taking advantages of its excellent emulsion stability, UV protection performance, long lasting water-resistant function and selective cleansing effect with only foam cleanser.