Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology (한국응용과학기술학회지)

The Korean Society of Applied Science and Technology (한국응용과학기술학회)
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Moisturizing Effect and Durability of Sun Protection Factor (UVA/B) Activity with Multiple Emulsion (W/O/W) System

멀티플 에멀전(W/O/W) 시스템을 이용한 자외선차단성능(UVA/B)의 내수성과 보습효과

  • 이명희 (대전보건대학교 화장품과학과) ;
  • 김인영 ((주)바이오뷰텍 기술연구소)
  • Received : 2015.05.31
  • Accepted : 2015.06.21
  • Published : 2015.06.30
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Abstract

This study is to evaluate moisturizing effect and durability of UV A/B blocking activity with multiple (W/O/W) emulsion system. Most of the sun protective products come to be hot issue having both high SPF and long-lasting activity as using special products when is going out, mountain climbing and sports. Also, many consumers prefer the products which have the excellent waterproofing activity of sun care cosmetics as well as the non-sticky feeling that carried out the study of the sensorial science and texture preference. Therefore, development of the specific formulation using this multiple (W/O/W) emulsion technology, it has O/W type hydro skin feel having soft and moist texture when it is treated on the skin. Finally, this formulation is instantly changed to W/O type feel after adsorbed into the skin. The purpose of this study is to get high SPF lasting effect having high water resistance tactivity with high functional multiple (W/O/W) emulsion cream. We used major ingredients, UV-B absorbers were selected with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl-p-methoxycinnamate, ethylhexylsalicylate, and octocrylene, UV-A absorbers were selected with butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxy phenyltriazine. SPF effect of O/W type cream was 34.1. SPF effect of W/O/W type cream was 40.6 (increased about 19%). Water resistance effect after 4 hours, SPF effect of O/W type cream was 3.6 (quickly drop down). SPF effect of W/O/W type cream having 81.0 % waterproofing effect was 32.7 (decreased about SPF 7.9). Moisturizing effect of O/W cream at first was superior comparing multiple emulsion. But after 3 hours quickly was drop-down. Moisturizing effect of multiple emulsion was high comparing O/W type and other sun block creams after 4 hours was constantly maintaining water-content.

본 연구는 멀티플 에멀젼(W/O/W) 시스템을 이용하여 개발한 자외선차단 제품의 자외선차단성능의 지속성과 보습효과에 관한 연구이다. 자외선차단용 화장품은 장시간의 외출, 등산, 레포츠 활동을 할 때 필수적으로 사용하는 제품으로 높은 자외선차단효과와 지속성이 요구되고 있다. 또한, 소비자들은 감성공학적인 측면에서 끈적이지 않으며, 내수성이 우수한 제품을 선호하고 있다. 친수성 (O/W타입) 자외선차단제품의 경우, 사용감은 우수하나, 땀이나, 물에 쉽게 지워지기 때문에 완벽한 자외선차단 효과를 기대할 수 없으며, 내수성이 우수한 친유형 (W/O타입) 제품의 경우, 내수성은 우수하나, 끈적임이 심하고, 보습효과가 낮다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 멀티플에멀젼(W/O/W)시스템의 퍼뮬레이션을 개발하여 친수성크림의 부드럽고 촉촉한 사용감을 부여하고 흡수 후에는 내수성이 우수한 W/O 제형으로 변화하여, 우수한 내수성과 자외선차단효과의 지속성을 가지는 고기능성 다중에멀젼의 자외선차단크림을 개발하는 것이 목적이다. 자외선차단크림에 사용된 성분으로 UV-B를 차단하는 원료 에칠헥실메톡시 신나메이트, 이소아밀-p-메톡시신나메이트, 에틸헥실살리실레이트, 옥토크릴렌을 사용하였으며, UV-A차단제로 부틸메톡시디벤조일메탄과 비스에칠헥실옥시페놀 메톡시페닐트리아진을 사용하였다. O/W형 크림의 자외선차단효과를 나타내는 SPF 수치가 34.1, W/O/W형 크림에서는 SPF 수치가 40.6으로, O/W형 크림보다는 19%정도 자외선 차단효과가 상승하는 것으로 나타났다. 4시간 경과 후의 내수성시험에서는 O/W형 크림의 경우 자외선차단효과가 3.6정도로 30.5이상 하락하였으나, 다중에멀젼 시스템에서는 자외선차단효과가 32.7로, 7.9정도 하락하여 81%의 내수성이 있는 것으로 나타났다. 사용 30분 후의 보습효과는 친수성크림이 우수하였으나, 3시간 이후의 보습력은 멀티플에멀젼에서 더욱 높은 보습효과를 보였다.

Keywords

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