A new silkworm variety Golden silk for spring rearing season is $F_1$ hybrid between Jam311, a Japanese race bred from introduction breeding and Jam312, a Chinese race from introduction breeding. In the local adaptability test performed at 8 local areas in spring of 2006, "Golden silk" was showed 7 percent higher in hatchability than authorized silk-worm races laval. "Golden silk" was receded higher 1.7 percent, 2.2 percent in pupation rate, best cocoon rate respectively than Chunsujam. The larval period shortened for 1.12 day even though low record to the several items including productivity than Chunsujam. "Golden silk" was showed 1,031 m, 2.97 denier in length of cocoon filament, weight of cocoon filament respectively. The concentration of Deoxynojirimycin(DNJ) was measured 4.34 mg in "Golden silk", high then to "Chunsujam"(3.81 mg). In the Paecilomyces tenuipes production ability test, the pupal weight of "Golden silk" was 1.20g.
This thesis is a study on the kaftan styles iin Asia. The purpose of he study was to examine the origin o the kaftan concentrating on the history and cultural backgrounds of nomads in he Western Central and North Eastern Asia. Secondly for more thorough study and expla-nation on how these kaftans contributed to East-West trade along the silk road. wall paintings and miniature illuminations along Oasis roads persia and Saracen period were compared, Also real kaftans were compared and analyzed the characteristics of Western (Turkey palestine) Central(Kazakistan Uz-bekistan Tadzhistan Qyrgyztan Turkmenistan) and the North Eastern Asian(Mongol) area. Thirdly an attempt has been made to provide the North Eastern Asian(Mongol) area. Thirdly an attempt has been made to provide the style classifications according to their peculiarities of the various kaftans as well as how kaftan gave important influences on custumes of different religious sects. The kaftan is a long coat-like garment with front openings fastened with long sash having an extra long sleeves which were worn by middle and high class nomadics throughout the West Central and North Eastern Asia This type of kaftans were a basic clothing for nomadics since they were constantly moving fromone to another areas on their horse back riding. They also wore tight trousers with boots. Kaftans seem to be originated from nomads of Steppe around B.C. 800 On B. C 400 west asian areas such as Solokha Kul-oba Kulogan had pictures sculptues on vases showing kaftans of half coat type length with front opening tied with band. Also the materials used were the products of animals such as wool or felt with animal designs showing Scythian nomads. In the North Eastern Asia Hsiung-Nu were active in Kazakha North Altai and Mongol The Clothing and fabrics exfavated near Noin-ula Pazyrik showed many samples of kaftan with trousers with other interment be-longings with a corpse around B.C 300 to A. D 100 when trades along the silk roads were proven by many historians Kaftans excavated in this area wore red front opening silk materials which suggesting settling down of nomads. in he central Asia Dol-gull near Altai mountain area were mainly miners who later had many trades with Persia and Bizantine. After Dol-gull Bezeklik temple Samarkant Kizil cow Budda sculture wall paintings of Astana tomb showed typical kaftan of this re-gion. These were both hip covered length as well as long coat with narrow sleeves. Es-pecially they had different color band fron the main kaftan with grogeously and splendously designed silk. In perusia during A. D 1400 to 1600 minia-ture illumination showed kaftan as a high class symbol more than clothing purpose. They had best quality silk with extra long sleeves draping and had a layers of kaftans one on top of anther as a symbol of wealth These Kaftans with different colors and designs were even more beautiful with their effective combinations and contrast of colors. On the other hand the lower class common people and servants wore simple kaftan with the front part of the kaftan were slipped into the belt in order to be more active and con-venient to work, The real kaftans discovered at Topkapi Saray palace of Turkey from A. D 1300 to 1900 were also compared. These kaftans were very numerous in numbers as well as designs The materials and designs used were also vari-ous such as Chinese to Italian silk. The shaped and pattern itself were not much different from the previous nomad's Kaftans. The Palestian kaftans remained were from the beginning of 19th and 20th century. Since this area is hot and dry desert they used black and navy blue colors mostly in order to exclude the sun lights. The patterns used were similar to Nomads and Bedouin with cross stiches and patch work decorations. In the central Asia they had similar life style and natural environmental cnditions with Turkish tribe which resulted in similar kaftan styles as nomads. Mongols conserved basic patterns of kaftan since Cinggis Khan with deep folding in order to keep warm. At last the kaftans studided in this thesis were classified in to four such as half coat long coat jacket and vest style. A pattern used in the Central Asia were zigzag and ani-mal design whereas in the West Asia were floral plant arabesk and circle pattern. As I discussed previously kaftan styles of nomads in the Asia maintained its basic pat-tern throughout the history except slight changes in color gusset sleeve shapes. These slight changes were made according to the need to adapt the need of environmental natu-ral conditions, The reason for aboriginality of kaftan in Asia was its simplicity and con-venience Most interesting fact is that for all these years Mongols are still wearing kaftan in their life ensuring us that they art the preserves of old kaftan. Since this thesis dealt enormous Asian regions I had a limitation of not being able to cover the Far Esatern asian areas such as Korea China and Japan how these kaftans were influenced in their clothing history as well as Eastern and Western culture. This topic along with the studies on materials and designs of patterns of kaftan will be another research project in the future.
This study was carried out ill an attempt to investigate the properties and activities of sericin obtained from silk cocoon shells in silk reeling water through various instrumental analyses. In addition, the effects of the characteristics in sericin solubility on the reeling process and silk qualities were also studied on the basis of tile above conditions. The results obtained are as follows: I. The sericin properties and activities through various analytical instruments. 1. The water solubility of each amino acid such as serine, glycine. glutamic and aspartic acids against the pH modified water by using automatic amino acid analyzer, showed the lowest solubility at PH 5, but it increased according to drifting toward the alkalinity. 2. When the obtained sericin particles by water pH variation were observed with the electronic microscope, it was found for the sericin Particles to expand in the alkaline regions. 3. The IR spectrum results showed the differences among the pH modified sericin solutions at the range of 2,100cm-1 and 1.890cm-1 of wave number. 4. The existence of sericin with in silk fabrics made differences in the X-ray interference intencity, that is, the non-degummed fabrics had the interference peak at 2$\theta$=14$^{\circ}$, 17$^{\circ}$, 24$^{\circ}$, and the degummed ones had it at 2$\theta$=17$^{\circ}$, 18$^{\circ}$, 20$^{\circ}$, 23$^{\circ}$, 26$^{\circ}$. II. The results of sericin solubility for silk reeling process. 1. The sericin solubility and swelling had a tendency to increase up with high M-alkalinity and pH value of water. But in case of acidity. water hardness and concentration of ethylene glycol were high, the sericin solubility and swelling were decreased. 2. With the filature experiments, the best conditions of filature orator are summarized as fellows ; a. pH; 6.9${\pm}$0.2 d. acidity; below10ppm b. total hardness; 55:5ppm e. Fe ion; none c. M-alkalinity; 40${\pm}$10ppm
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.17
no.2
/
pp.301-306
/
1993
Since the underquilt has an important role of supporting the human body in sleeping, it needs to sustain ample degrees of hardness, elasticity, humidity absorption, and warmth retention property and also to have the two ergonimical requirements : It should not be too soft to allow human bodies to sink in, and that it should be comfortable for humans to tum over in sleeping. This study aims to investigate the effect of the thermal insulation of the variation in weight applied to the underquilt. For this purpose, six items were selected as filling materials for the underquilt : cotton, wool, silk, down, polyester, cotton/ployester. Various weights were applied to each of the underquilts to survey the reduction tendency of its thermal insulation effect. The results are as follow : 1. The Thermal insulation effect of each underquilt decreased in an exponetial function as the weight on the underquilt was increased. 2. The thermal reduction curves according to the load weight insrease were shown to be constant in shape regardless of the weight increase. 3. At the weight of more than $25kg/m^2$ the degree of the thermal insulation effect of each underquilt was found to be in order of down>cotton>silk>polyester>wool>cotton/ployester. 4. The variation in load weight applied to each underquilt was shown to be in reverse correlation with the thermal insulation effect. An estimated regression formula can be made on the data.
The results of this study were as follows: The quit has been used for warmth supporting materials protection religious uses decoration and giving stability of shapes. Quilt is developed from monk's robe of lags and the word 'nubi' is originated form 'nabeui' in both Korean and Japan. Korean quilt was used mainly for warmth: Japanese one was used for warmth and supporting materials. The techniques used for traditional Korean quit were parallel vertical hand stitches. On the other hand Japanese traditional quilt uses various motifs of sashiko which is similar to embroidery and named by region. Korean quilt can be divided into three types by the stitch intervals: Fin quit(Jan unbi) Medium quilt(Jung nubi) and Wide quilt(Demun nubi). Japanese quilt has been developed in east-north region and can be grouped into sashiko kogin and hishizashi by motifs of quit. Korean quilt costumes are stuffed with cotton between the outer fabrics and linings and stitched vertically on the fabrics Main fabrics used were silk and cotton. Japanese quilt costume uses cotton yarns for stitching on flax or cotton fabrics used were silk and cotton. fabrics and main uses of the quilot costumes were sorking clothes of working classes. Both Korean and Japanese quilt costumes contain of family's health happiness and longevity. In summary Korean quilts use two layers of fabrics and stuff them with cotton and stitch parallel vertical i\lines to provide warmth Japanese quilt are sashiko which is stitches of strand in various shapes using cotton yarns. differ by region and are made for warmth and supporting materials.
This study was carried out to determine the possibility of making fiberboard through the dry forming process, utilizing the tannin-like material of the Asplund pulp from the silk worm oak as a binder. The fiberboard was made through paraformaldehyde treatment, spray of NaOH solution and adjustment of mat moisture content, by hot-pressing at $220^{\circ}C$, and 50-6-50kg/$cm^2$ pressure with 6-min. (0.6-1.8-3.6) three-stage pressing cycle. The results are summarized as follows: 1. The modulus of rupture value of fiberboard treated with NaOH solution was greater than that of untreated. The value was increased in proportion to the paraformaldehyde content from I to 5%, but there was no increasing between 5 and 7% paraformaldehyde content. The value became higher along with the increase of mat moisture content from 15% to 25%. 2. The water adsorption of fiberboard treated with NaOH solution was lower than that of untreated. The value was de"creased in proportion to the paraformaldehyde content from 1 to 5%, but there was no decreasing between 5 and 7% paraformaldehyde content.. 3. A good quality fiberboard (modulus of rupture value of about 250kg/$cm^2$) was made through 5% paraformaidehyde treatment and 3% treatment of 10% NaOH solution, when the mat moisture content was 25%. was 25%.
This paper uses super-efficiency DEA model and Malmquist index to evaluate the carbon emission efficiency (CEE) values of the nine western provinces along the "Silk Road Economic Belt" for the period from 2000 to 2015, and analyses the influencing factors of the CEE. The major findings of this study are the following: (1) the overall CEE of the nine western provinces is not high, and there are significant inter-provincial differences in the CEE. Meanwhile, the provinces with higher levels of economic development generally have higher CEE. (2) The annual total factor productivity (TFP) of the nine western provinces, which is mainly determined by technological change, is greater than 1. Moreover, the total average growth rate of the TFP is 15.5%. (3) The CEE of the nine western provinces is not spatially dependent. In addition, the urbanization, openness, use of energy-saving technologies and research and development (R&D) investment have a significant positive impact on the CEE values, while the industrial structure, foreign direct investment, fixed asset investment, government expenditure levels and energy structure have a significant negative impact on the CEE. Among them, R&D investment is the primary factor in promoting the development of CEE, and the government expenditure has the greatest negative impact on the CEE.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.23
no.1
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pp.140-146
/
1999
Colorants in green tea were extracted freeze-dried and analyzed to investigate the possibility of using as a natural dye. Fractionation of the colorants was carried out by column chromatograpy. Colorants in green tea were eluted into five fractions. All the fractions except fraction F2 showed absorption peakat 280nm. Fraction f2 showed absorption peak at 270nm and broad peak at 350nm, From the IR analysis it is speculated that fractions F2-F5 having similar stucture but different molecular weight are catechis. Silk fabrics dyes with fractions F1-F4 showed yellowish red color while sample dyed with fraction F5 showed red color. The colorants from green tea infusion was applied to silk wool nylon cotton and rayon fabrices. It showed relatively good affinity to protein and polyamide fibers bur low affinity to cellulose and regenerated cellulose fibers.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.37
no.5
/
pp.667-675
/
2013
After analyzing excavated $17-18^{th}$ century silk fibers through a scanning electron microscopy, we discovered seven different kinds of fracture morphology. Using Morton & Hearle fiber fracture morphology, we classified the findings into four different categories. Type I is tensile failure resulting from brittle fracture, granular fracture, and ductile fracture. Type II is fatigue failure caused by tensile fatigue, flex fatigue, and axial split (fibrillation). Type III is bacterial deterioration discovered only in excavated artifacts. Type IV is a combination of the three above. Humid underground conditions and the infiltration of bacteria caused the fibers to swell and weaken its interfibrillar cohesion. Fractures occur when drying and processing an excavated artifact that is already in a fragile condition. Therefore, one must minimize damage through a prompt cleaning process and make sure that the least possible force is exerted on the fabric during any treatment for repair and exhibition.
Polyclonal antiserum against Manduca sexta allatotropin has been utilized to investigate the localization of allatotropin-immunoreactivity in the brain of the si1k moth Bombyx mori. Manduca sexta allatotropin-immunoreactive (Mas-AT-IR) neurons were found in all larval brains investigated, but not in prepupal, pupal and adult brains. In the larval stages, first appearance of Mas-AT-immunoreactivity w8s shown in the brain of first instar larvae, which contains four pairs of bilateral Mas-AT-IR cell bodies. Labeled neurons increased to six pairs in the second instar larval brain, including two pairs of median neurosecretory cells in the pars intercerebralis. In the third and fourth instar larvae, five pairs of labeled cell bodies were distributed throughout each brain. In the fifth instar, there were about ten pairs of bilateral cell bodies in the day-1 brain, about seven pairs in the day-3 brains, and five pairs in the day-5 brains, respectively. Mas-AT-labeling was observed in both axons within nervi corpora cavdiaci (NCC) 1+11 and corpora allata. This suggests that the Mas-AT produced from the brain neurons is transported via some axons of the NCC 1+11 and nervi corpora allati I to the corpora allata, which appears to be a main accumulation site for the Mas-AT neuropeptide in some brain neurons produced in B. mori.
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