• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.55-65
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• 2009

Metal complex dyes are usually used to dye amide fiber such as wool, silk and nylon to achieve high concentrated color and excellent color fastness. However, metal complex dyes that contain various heavy metal components cause not only serious environmental problem but also human health. In this study the ordinary 1:2 metal acid dyes and the modified 1:2 metal dyes, which are environmental friendly, are compared and analyzed in existing dyes investigated the trends in the evaluation system of their harmfulness, containing heavy metals and examined exhaustion rates and dyeing characteristics.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.205-208
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• 2012

Antheraea pernyi silkworm is a well known wild silkworm to produce a valuable silk fiber. A. pernyi silkworm was reared in Korean oak field and examined the cocoon characteristics, such as cocoon weight, cocoon shell weight, and percentage of cocoon shell weight. Degumming loss was also measured after alkali degumming process. A. pernyi silkworm spins tawny color cocoon in oval shape. Cocoon shell weight of A. pernyi silkworm, 0.78 g, was heavier than that of B. mori silkworm, 0.51 to 0.63 g. Cocoon shell percentage of A. pernyi silkworm, 32.8%, was higher than that of B. mori silkworm, 23.4 to 25.2%. Degumming loss percentage of A. pernyi silkworm, 17.1%, was lower than that of B. mori silkworm, 25.0%. SEM showed that the surface of the cocoon filament was coarse and oriented with longitudinal direction.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.8-14
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• 2003

This paper considers the potential impact of biological approaches such as bio-copying (biomimetics) and biomanipulating (e.g. genetic engineering) on future developments in the field of textiles and, in particular, fibres. If analytical tools for studying biological systems combined with those of materials science are further developed, and higher efficiency and reproducibility of genetic engineering technology can be achieved, the potential for the copying and manipulation of nature for textile innovations will be immense. The present state for both fields is described with examples such as touch and close fastener, structurally coloured fibres, the Lotus of lect (for bio-copying), as well as herbicide tolerant cotton, insecticide resistant cotton (Bt cotton), cotton polyester bicomponent fibres, genetically engineered silkworm and silk protein, and spider fibres. (for genetic engineering).

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.551-561
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• 2003

The regulations for costume were set to improve people's moral fiber and cultural standards. In the 17th and 18th century, the main aim of this regulation was to prohibit luxury. But being the turning point to a modem state, with breaking social status and development of commerce, industry, and the mind of imitation, regulation for luxury wasn't enforced, but rather it brought many revolutionary changes in costume. Restraining human impulse to express beauty was no longer subject to regulation. Therefore, people started to recognize the human figure with shorter Jegory(저고리) and strengthened ceremonial capacity by broadening po's(포) sleeves. The silk fabrics were the most popular fabric during this era, special patterns were added for decoration and also for blessings. Complementary colors were used for contrast on the collar (깃), cuffs (끝동), Gyotrnagi (곁마기), and sash (고름). This color composition gave a younger and more active look. And with red stripes on the sleeves, it emphasized the beauty of the color arrangements as well as providing protection from the devil.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.169-173
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• 2002

Fabric touch was evaluated psychophysically in order to determine the relationship between mechanical properties and subjective sensation. For subjective touch sensation, eight aspects such as hardness, smoothness, coarseness, coolness, pliability, crispness, heaviness and thickness were evaluated using free modulus magnitude estimation (FEME) technique. KES-FB was used to measure the mechanical properties of fabrics. Woolen fabric with the highest values of WC and weight was evaluated as the coarsest, heaviest and thickest. While silk crepe do chine with the lowest LT, G, 2HG, thickness and weight was rated as smoother and more pliable than any other fabrics. And flax with the highest values of LT and SMD was evaluated as hard, cool and crisp. Fabric touch and satisfaction were predicted well from the mechanical properties, especially from SMD, by regression analysis. Satisfaction for touch increased as smoothness increased.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.757-763
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• 1999

The burn-out technique is used to result in the velvet cloth being patterned in open and solid areas by carbonize the cellulose fiber. It is examined how to burn out the cellulose part of the velvet without damage of the other part. The print paste indalca solution is mixed with sodium hydrogensulfate and lycerine and then screen-printed on the back side of the velvet. The effects of process conditions such as concentration of sodium hydrogensulfate dry heat fixation temperature and time pull no. and glycerine contents on the properties of ground farics were investigated. The yellowness index and the breaking load of silk ground fabrics afected by the process conditions especially concentration of sodium hydrogensulfate dry heat fixation temperature.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Sericultural Science Conference
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• 2002.10a
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• pp.91-91
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• 2002

No Abstract, See Full Text

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.10 no.1 s.13
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• pp.1-9
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• 2001

The objective of this study is to examine the characteristics of historical papers and cloths found at Neunggasa temple, Goheunggun, Chonnam Province, Korea, using light microscopy, image analysis and SEM-EDS for fiber morphology and trace metal composition. All papers were made from paper mulberry. Transparent membrane, which was separated from bast fiber, was unique in these fibers. The papers found on the wall of Daewungjun were most highly degraded and those of the books, which were excavated under Cheungwangmun, were relatively well preserved. The cloths found under the statue 'Dong-bangjiguk' were silk, very narrow fiber without any marks. In the analysis of SEM-EDS, high content of silica was detected. Also small content of calcium was taken into consideration. Content of iron and chlorine were discussed from the viewpoint of potentially harmful elements for the conservation of paper. The composition of trace elements could not be used to determine the origins of papers.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.71-76
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• 2010

In this study the optimum dyeing conditions and blocking effect of UV deodorization efficiency of Ligustrum japonicum Thunb were investigated. Colorants were water-extracted from Ligustrum japonicum Thunb fruit and freeze-drided to obtain colorants powder. The effects of dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and the number of dipping count were studied. Fastness to dry cleaning, rubbing, perspiration, and light were measured according to KS K 0644, KS K 0650, KS K 0715 and KS K 0700, respectively. In order to examine the dyeability according to dyeing conditions, reflectance of fabrics were measured by using UV/VIS spectrophotometer. The bath ratio was 1:20. Dyeing concentration was 100, 200, 300, 400 and 500% on the weight of fiber. Dyeing time was 20, 40, 60, and 80 minutes. Dyeing temperature was 20, 40, 60, 80, and $100^{\circ}C$. The infrared high pressure dying machine was used. As dyeing concentration increased, dye adsorption increased up to 400% and it slowed down. Dye uptake was increased with raising themperature up to $80^{\circ}C$ and it slowed down. Dye adsorption occurred rapidly at first 20 minutes and then it slowed down and reached almost maximum dye uptake at 60 min. Dye uptake increased by repeated dyeing. Therefore, it is considered that optimum dyeing condition is 400%(o.w.f.), $80^{\circ}C$, 60 min. And repeated dyeing improves dye uptake. Color fastness to dry cleaning and rubbing was good, but light fastness and perspiration fastness was not good. Blocking effect of ultraviolet radiation and deodorization efficiency was good.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.38-45
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• 2009

First of all, the properties imparted to PET fabrics are resistance to and recovery from creasing or wrinkling when wet or dry; high resistance to stretch in the filament yarns but not in the staple; high abrasion resistance; good texture and appearance; resistance to heat ageing; good chemical resistance and good resistance, behind glass, to sunlight. But, the low moisture regain of PET fabric conduces to static troubles in textile processing. Furthermore, garments made from PET may, during wear, develop electric charges which attract to the fabric particles of soil(dirt, swarf, dust) flying in the air, so that the cuffs of shirts, for example, become soiled quickly and are not easily laundered clean. The sericin constitutes 25$\sim$30％ of silk protein and surrounds the fibroin fiber with sticky layer that supports the formation of a cocoon. The useful biochemical properties of sericin protein are oxidation resistant, antibacterial, UV resistant, hydrophilic property, and good affinity with hydrophobic material. These properties can be used as an improving reagent or a coating agent for natural and synthetic fibers, fabrics, and other intermediate products. The sericin is also applied to cross-link, and can be blended with other materials. In this study, we modified the surface of PET fabric by mixture of sericin finishing agent; sericin, polyuretane binder and 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) cross-link agent. Also, we investigated the finshing effect; moisture regain, stiffness, handle, drape and electrostatic. The moisture regain of PET fabric treated with sericin finishing agent was higher than that of untreated PET fabric. As a result of evaluating influence about handle of PET fabrics treated with sericin finishing agent, it was confirmed that the sericin finishing agent could be use as a linen like finishing agent.