• Archives of design research
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.73-86
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• 1993

The development of Korean textile industry has continued for the early industrialization. But a change in situation of circumstances, textile industry undergoes hard times. To overcome the barrier, therefore, technical development and design innovation are needed to make high value added product. This paper try to put to practical use of the silk weighting process technique(WPT). First, we investigate the technical trend of WPT to summarize the theory, and examine the feasibility of technical development. Second, the application of Graft process to silk textile is examined to know whether it is possible as an practical use. Next, we present the practical way of WPT using MAA monomer through experiment. The results are as follow. 1) Considering the lack of silk yarn. Graft process is appropriate new technique to make the value added product, and fine quality. 2) Studing textile goods, it need inter-displlinary co-work not only fiber engineering scope because textile goods is closely related with fashion industry. 3) MAA monomer used in this paper is more excellent then other monomer because it has good weighting effect and does not harm to the nature of textile. 4) MAA WPT is good for silk textiles of ladies jacket and neck-tie.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.67-72
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• 2009

To investigate the strong and effective sericin fixing agents and conditions, raw silk fibers were treated with the mixtures of urea-formalin, thiourea-formalin and melamine-formalin as sericin fixing agents, respectively. And the treated raw silk fibers were degummed by the degumming liquors of alkaline detergent and sodium carbonate to confirm the hardness of sericin fixation. The weight of raw silk fibers was decreased in the process of sericin fixation treating at 80$^{\circ}C$ for 60min. The effective sericin fixation was obtained by treating at $60{\sim}80^{\circ}C$ for 15min with the mixture of melamine and formalin. The mixture of melamine and formalin showed an outstanding ability of sericin fixation because the three amino groups of melamine were able to cross-link the hydroxy amino acids of sericin such as serine with the assistance of formalin.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.10-18
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• 1997

In order to study the properties of safflower yellow colors, thermodynamic parameters and dyeing properties on the silk in several dyeing conditions were investigated. The uv-visible spectra of safflower yellow colors in several solvents show hypsochromic shift with the polarity of solvent but bathochromic shift with increasing acidity of solution. The apparent diffusion coefficients and standard affinities of dyeing increased with the increase of dyeing temperature. The standard heat of dyeing(${\Delta}H^0$), entropy change(${\Delta}S^0$) and activation energy($E_{act}$) were calculated to be - 1.144kcal/mol, -7.498(5$0^{\circ}C$)~-3.804(9$0^{\circ}C$)cal/molㆍdeg and 0.123kcal/mol, respectively. The concentration of safflower yellow colors in the silk fiber increased with dyeing temperature, time, concentration of colors and acidity of initial dyebath. Silk fabrics were dyed bright yellow by pre-mordanting with tin chloride. Lightfastness of silk fabrics pre-mordanted by tin chloride was not excellent.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.154-160
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• 1995

Dyeing behavior of Silk/Cationic dyeable polyester(CDP) mixed filament was investigated by using a cationic dye. The effect of pH, temperature and additives such as carrier, levelling agent and salt were examined for each silk and CDP component of mixed filament in order to find out the optimum dyeing condition. Based on these results, the dyeing behavior was investigated for Silk/CDP mixed filaments concering various dyeing parameters. The dye adsorption was significantly changed on the dyeing temperature, carrier addition and pH of the dyebath. Specially, the dye migration phynomena were observed for a mixed filament, showing that the dyes initially observed on the surface of silk fiber migrate to the CDP component during a dyeing process. The dyeing of Silk/CDP mixed filaments accompanied by dye migration and as a result, dye adsorption can be developed only for a CDP component. Therefore, the control of dyeing temperature is most important for a Silk/CDP mixed filament, in order that both silk and CDP component are able to be dyed by a cationic dye simultaneously in one bath/one dye system.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.81-88
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• 2013

Wet-spun silk fibers have attracted the attention of many researchers because of 1) the unique properties of silk as a biomaterial, including good biocompatibility and cyto-compatability and 2) the various methods available to control the structure and properties of the fiber. Cellulose nanofibrils (CNFs) have typically been used as a reinforcing material for natural and synthetic polymers. In this study, CNF-embedded silk fibroin (SF) nanocomposite fibers were prepared for the first time. The effects of CNF content on the rheology of the dope solution and the characteristics of wet-spun CNF/SF composite fibers were also examined. A 5% SF formic acid solution that contained no CNFs showed nearly Newtonian fluid behavior, with slight shear thinning. However, after the addition of 1% CNFs, the viscosity of the dope solution increased significantly, and apparent shear thinning was observed. The maximum draw ratio of the CNF/SF composite fibers decreased as the CNF content increased. Interestingly, the crystallinity index for the silk in the CNF/SF fibers was sequentially reduced as the CNF content was increased. This phenomenon may be due to the fact that the CNFs prevent ${\beta}$-sheet crystallization of the SF by elimination of formic acid from the dope solution during the coagulation process. The CNF/SF composite fibers displayed a relatively smooth surface with stripes, at low magnification (${\times}500$). However, a rugged nanoscale surface was observed at high magnification (${\times}10,000$), and the surface roughness increased with the CNF content.

• Current Research on Agriculture and Life Sciences
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• v.27
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• pp.13-19
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was the efficient use of the black rice bran for dyeing textiles. For this purpose, we investigated proper extracting conditions of black rice bran, dyeability and dyeing fastness of dyed silk fabrics. To find proper extracting condition of black rice bran, we extracted black rice bran with water at different temperatures($40^{\circ}C$, $60^{\circ}C$, $80^{\circ}C$), different extracting pH(pH3, pH4, pH5, pH6) and extracting time(20, 40, 60, 80, 100, 120, 140, 160, 180min.). Also we investigated the effect of dyeing time(1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6hr.), dyeing temperature($40^{\circ}C$, $60^{\circ}C$, $80^{\circ}C$) and mordanting method(non, pre, sim, post) to examine dyeability and dyeing fastness of dyed silk fabrics. As a result, when the extracting temperature and time were $80^{\circ}C$, 3hr., respectively, extracting was best. And the higher the extracting concentration, the more the extracting amount. As the dyeing temperature and time were higher and longer, the dyeability of silk fabrics was better. With mordant, the dyeability was improved and when using premordant method better, the K/S value was maximized. The laundering fastness of the silk fabrics dyed with black rice bran was estimated to have a good grade of 3~4, however, the light fastness was poor to have a grade of 1~2.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.180-185
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• 1996

Biosynthesis tracing of the silk fibroin in Bombyx mori silkworm was examined in vivo with isotopic [1-13C] Gly. labeling by nuclear magnetic resonance method. The [1-13C] Gly. labeled silk fibroin yielded very sharp 13C NMR signal in the posterior silk gland as well as in aqueous solution and the amound of [1-13C] Gly. labeled signal in the silkworm increased gradually and rapidly to 5-th day of fifth instar. However, the decomposition or decrease of the [1-13C] Gly. labeled signal occured from 5-th to 9-th day of fifth instar unexpectedly. These findings suggest that a relative amount of ${\alpha}$-helical portion or amorphous silk II portion was formed without any further signal from 6-th day of fifth instar to pupation. Through peak separation of orientation spectrum, between the fiber axis and the molecular bond direction, N-H bond in Bombyx mori silk fiber as well as the orientation distribution around the silk fibroin axis were determined and two kinds of peaks were also obtained from this orientation spectrum.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.59-65
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• 2000

In order to investigate psychoacoustic characteristics of fibers, and to compare them with sound physical parameters, each sound of 25 different fabrics consisted of a single fiber such as wool, cotton, silk, polyester, and nylon was recorded. Sounds of specimens were transformed into critical band diagram and psychoacoustic characteristics including loudness and sharpness for each sound were calculated based on Zwicker＇s models. Physical parameters such as the level pressure of total sound (LPT), level ranges (ΔL), frequency differences (Δf), AR coefficients (ARC, ARF, ARE) were obtained in fast fourier transform (FFT) spectrum. Nylon taffeta showed higher values for loudness than 2.5 sone corresponding to human low conversation, while most silk fibers generated less louder showing lower values for loudness than 1.0 sone. Wool fibers had higher loudness mean value than that of cotton, while the two fibers didn't differ in LPT. Loudness showed high positive correlation coefficients with both LPT and ARC. Sharpness values were higher for wool fiber group than other fibers. Sharpness was not concerned with loudness, LPT, and ARC, but the fabrics with higher values for sharpness tended to show higher ΔL.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.3
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• pp.1-11
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• 1963

This treatise is to set up a fundamental condition of checking silk lousiness and to set up a new improving method of cocoon bave lousiness after super refining treatment. It is also studied whether silk lousiness can be eliminated through the observation of the silk gland, or the lousiness can be able to improve through such a study. The conclusions obtained in this paper are as follows. 1. Silk lousiness is able to be observed most properly when the light direction and the fiber direction are parallel in plan view of the silk cloth and the greater the angle between them is, the less the lousiness is observed. When, however, the angle is greater than some specific angle(30$^{\circ}$), no more lousiness is observed. This specific angle is named by the author as Lousiness Horizontal Critical Angle. 2. Silk lousiness can be observed when the angle of light incidence against the silk cloth is six degrees, while the larger the angle is, the less the lousiness is observed. When, however, the angle is greater than same specific angle(45$^{\circ}$) the lousiness disappears. Such a specific angle is named by the author as Lousiness Vertical Critical Angle. 3. The best textile composition to decrease lousiness defect is plan weave, while twill and satin weave show more lousiness with the same silk fiber. 4. Lousiness was classified as Lousiness A, B, ana C of which A was the general lousiness, B was the group type, and C was the glucose type and the standard photographs for the lousiness grading of these types were prepared. 5. The proper soap-refining hours of silk for lousiness test was eight hours. 6. The greater the difference of fiber diameter between the cocoon single bave and the splitend was, the more lousiness was composed. The normal splitends were measured as 1/4-1/5 of the main fiber. 7. The lousiness was found at the cocoon shape ends more than other parts, and found at the middle cocoon layer than other layer which was imagined to be as a result of poor uniform bave spinning of silk worm. 8. Female cocoon had more lousiness than the male cocoon. 9. It was found that there was a great possibility to have the splitends through the observation of the anatomical silkgland, and the author reached a conclusion that the lousiness can be improved to a certain degree only by the elimination of abnormal silk gland from the breeding aspects. 10. The cocoon bave of the offspring after super refining lousiness test and selection showed more improved lousiness defect than that of the parents.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.27-39
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• 1976

In this study several kinds of spun silk yarn-synthetic filament compounded yarn was manufactured, and several fabrics woven from above mentioned silk compound yarn for evaluation of serviceability as clothing materials. The following results were obtained: 1. Degumming agents are in the order of sodium silicate, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbornate, soap and water. 2. When the concentration of sodium hydroxide is exceeded 3%, degradation of floss silk property is resulted because of excessive dissolving out of silk protein. 3. Degumming effect is much improved by concentration of degumming agent and less by its treating time. 4. Simultaneous application of more the 2 kinds of degumming agent is desirable for improvement of floss silk. 5. Application of natural organic acid brings very good results in keeping original scooping and color of the silk. 6. Load and elongation it increased by compound with synthetic filament yarn. 7. Even the evenness of compound yarn is largely dependent on the quality of floss silk and extent of degumming, the C.V.% of silk compound yarn in the experiment was 8-12%. 8. Single bath dyeing technique was impossible for their cloth, and dyeing was performed in 2 bath system separately for silk and synthetic fiber. 9. Shrinkage ratio due to the dyeing of fabric was 23% in case of polyester and spun silk fabric. 10. The final woven cloth can be applicable to (a) Blouse in care of thin cloth (compound silk fabric) (b) Korean costume for women in case of thick cloth. (compound hand spun silk fabric)