• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.32-37
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• 2001

Silk fabric was sputter-treated with Au, Cu, SUS, and Ti using poly(vinyl alcohol) (PVA) as a binder, and its changes in color, antielectrostatic property, airpermearbility, and rubbing fastness were investigated. Sputter-treated silk fabric had a natural color of metal target, which was deepened by treatment of PVA solution. The rubbing fastness of thin metal layer formed by sputtering was improved by PVA treatment. Au had highest rubbing fastness among the metal targets. In addition, PVA treatment posterior to sputtering resulted In higher rubbing fastness than the other treatment method. However, a reverse trend was found in antielectrostatic property. Air permeability of the sputter-treated silk fabric was improved by PVA treatment, which was highest when sputtering was conducted prior to PVA treatment.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.215-219
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• 2000

Dyeability and antimicrobial activity of Saururus chinensis on to silk and cotton fabrics has been studied. The dyestuff was extracted with distilled water. Silk fabric showed higher K/S value than cotton fabric at the same condition. And with the simmordanting by Fe, Cu gave good improvements of the K/S values. Surface color of dyed fabrics was various according to the used mordants: Cr mordanted fabric was to be cleared, Fe mordanted fabric was the greatest color difference. The fastness was significantly improved in mordanting. The Fe, Cu mordanted silk fabrics was the greatest antimicrobial activity.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.52-60
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• 1986

This study was carried out to compare the handle of silk fabrics degummed with Alkalase, Protease produced by bacteria, with of silkfabrics degummed with the soap-soda. 1. In twill habutae, the stiffiness of silk fabric degummed with Alkalase was lower than that of silkfabirc degummed with soap-soda. The soft feeling value which is meaning the total Mandle value of medium fabirc for lady, as well as the Smothness, were more improved in enzymatic degumming than in the soap-soda degumming. 2. In case of Crep De Chine representing thin fabric for lady, the stiffness and Anti-Drape stiffness of the fabric degummed with Alkalase were lower than those of fabric degummed with the soap-soda, but the fullness and the Flexibilit with smooth feeling which is meaning the Total Handle value were higher.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.122-130
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• 1992

To improve the physical properties and the dyeing properties of silk, the silk fabric was treated with urea resin and reactive dyeing. The effects of urea resin concentration, pH of padding bath and curing condition were investigated in order to find optimum condition and the following results are obtained The optimum condition for the crease recovery of silk fabric was urea resin concentration of 80 g/ι, pH of 7, the curings temperature of about 135$^{\circ}C$, and the curing time of 3 minutes. The crease recovery and the thermal insulation ratio of silk fabric were increased by the above treatment. K/S increased as the adding amount of Na$_2$SO$_4$ increased, K/S, however was not affected by the adding amount of Na$_2$CO$_3$. Co1or fastness of the dyed fabrics treated with urea resin were improved slightly compared with untreated ones.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.361-370
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• 2014

The fabric, 100% Silk, was dyed with Atractylodes japonica extract solution. The effects of concentration of extracts (colorant), temperature of dyeing, time of dyeing and pH of dye bath were studied. As the concentration of extracts increased, color strength (K/S value) increased progressively. The K/S values increased with raising temperature, time and proper conditions were $80^{\circ}C$ and 80 minutes. Maximum K/S value was obtained at pH 3. The K/S values of mordanted fabrics were increased with increasing mordant concentration up to specific values. Surface color of dyed and mordanted fabrics were yellowish. Light color fastness of fabric with mordanting was fairly good 3/4 rating. The mordanted silk fabrics showed excellent antibacterial activity. The silk fabric dyed with Atractylodes japonica extract showed a superior UV protective property.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.113-129
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• 2003

This study examined textiles used for the ancient costumes that are excavated from tombs of the Chosun dynasty, focusing especially on Po(overcoat). The result of the study is that silk occupies 79.8% of all the textiles used for Po, and cotton and linen follow. The weaving method of silk was primarily plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo dynasty, are considerably decreased in Chosun dynasty. Danlyeong(단령) and Cheollik(첩리) had been made of various textile fabrics like cotton, linen, silk and blended fabric before Imjinwaeran(임진왜란). After the war, they were simplified in gauze weaved silk or satin weaved silk, And also patterned fabric were widely used for them than other Po. Simple fabrics like cotton, linen and plain weaved silk had been used for Aekjureum(액주름) and Jiklyeong(직령) before Imjinwaeran. After the war, Jiklyeong was used as underwears of Danlyeong, so it was made of high quality patterned silk. Dopo(도포) and Changuiryu(창의류) were mainly excavated from tombs after the war, high quality plain weaved silk are used than gorgeous Patterned silk. For the Dopho(답호) and Bansuui(반수의), before the war, they were made with various textiles such as plain weaved silk, twill weaved silk, satin weaved silk, cotton, linen, and blended fabric. But after the war plain weave was mainly used. In Jangui(장의), since it was mostly for women, many kinds of women's patterned silk were used in than any other Po. There were only a few excavation of Simui(심의) and most of them were made of ramie and were hemmed in black satin without pattern.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.10-18
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• 2009

Dyeing process of the natural indigo powder onto ramie and silk fabrics was investigated by using glucose and calcium hydroxide as a reducing system. Effect of reduction and dyeing conditions such as temperature and time of reduction/dyeing, and concentrations of glucose and calcium hydroxide on the dyeing process were explored. Indigo powder was obtained by drying the conventional niram paste in an oven at $50^{\circ}C$. Color strength of the dyed fabrics was evaluated by K/S value measured at the wavelength of maximum absorption(${\lamda}$max). Munsell color coordinates(H V/C) were used to compare fabric colors of ramie and silk. Ramie fabric showed purple-blue color for all the temperature and time. On the contrary, silk fabric showed wide range of color including brown, brown-green, green at the different temperature. With the increase of K/S value, the coordinate of value(lightness) decreased for both of ramie and silk fabrics. The coordinate of hue(shade) changed drastically with the increase of K/S value for silk fabric, compared with that of ramie fabric which showed nearly constant value at the whole range of K/S value. Optimum concentrations of calcium hydroxide were for 6 g/L for ramie and 4 g/L for silk at $60^{\circ}C$ and 50 min. K/S value increased with the indigo concentration. Maximum K/S value was shown at $10{\sim}12$ g/L of glucose concentration. For both of ramie and silk fabrics, the colorfastness of washing and light was lower than that of rubbing. All the colorfastness values were improved with the increase of color strength.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.118-122
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• 2000

Dyeing properties of silk fabric with loess were studied by investigating the effect of dyeing conditions, such as concentration of loess, dyeing temperature and time, on dye uptakes. And also the effects of mordant and mordanting methods on color change and dye uptakes were inverstigated. For the practical use, the various color fastness of dyed fabric were evaluated. The dye uptakes of dyed fabric were increased gradually with increasing concentration of loess, dyeing time and temperature. The K/S value of dyed fabric most efficient for the premordanting method. The color fastness was improved when mordants were added.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.42-47
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• 2002

Antimicrobial activity of silk and cotton fabrics dyed with gromwell colorants was examined by shake flask method. The effects of bacterial reduction rate on dye uptake and mordanting were explored. The silk(K/S value 8) and cotton fabric (K/S value 4) dyed with gromwell colorants showed high bacterial reduction rate of 99 % and 88 %, respectively. Post-mordanted silk fabric increased at K/S value, also showed higher bacterial reduction rate than unmordanted. But the effects of antimicrobial activity on mordants showed respectively different results. Pre-mordanted cotton fabric except Sn mordant increased at K/S value, but it was not significant. Pre-mordanted cotton fabric showed significantly higher bacterial reduction rate than unmordanted. Therefore, it was considered that dye uptake of cotton fabric dyed with gromwell colorants and mordants were involved in the bacterial reduction rate. It was concluded that gromwell colorants had antimicrobial activity.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.183-191
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• 2000

The dyeing of silk fabric with chinese scholar tree extract was investigated. The colorant was extracted with distilled water, and concentrated under reduced pressure, and, finally spray-dried. The optimum temperature and dyeing time for the dyeing of silk with the scholar tree extract was $60^\circ{C}$ and 60 minutes respectively. In mordant dyeing, pre-mordanting method was most effective for color yield, and 1~2 % of mordant concentration was acceptable. Fastness of the dyed silk fabric to laundering and rubbing was shown to be good, but fastness to light, dry cleaning, and perspiration were varied with used mordants.