• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.371-381
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• 2010

The pine needles can be used for four seasons in normal living and it can be taken friendly everywhere as it is distributed over 50% in Korea. The pine needles consist of vitamins, protein, minerals, essential oil and enzyme related to antimicrobial activity. It has effect like high blood pressure, neuralgia and hanged over by terpene, glucokinin, rutin, apigenic acid and tannin. Also the extract of them can be used for dyeing of fabrics. However, the extract components and effects of them are not well known yet. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to investigate the volatile components of the pine needles extract and functionality. The pine needles extract was dyed into various fabrics(nylon, silk, wool and soybean) and mordanted with Al, Cu, Cr, Fe and Sn. The extracted aroma compounds were compared by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. The major volatile compounds of pine needles verified by using SPME were alpha-pinene, beta-pinene, beta-phellandrene, caryophyllene, ethanon, benzen. A total of 15 compounds were identified by using the SPME fibers. In the UV-visible spectra, the maximum absorption of wavelength of the pine needles ethanol extract appeared at 460, 630nm for chlorophyll component and at 237, 281nm for tannin component with the pine needles distilled water extract. Most of sample showed high antibacterial effect in none mordant but wool fabric showed high antibacterial effect in mordants. The result of UV block test showed a superior ability of blocking ultraviolet ray infiltration in all sample.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.85-95
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• 2022

This study aimed to clarify relationships between the westernization of military uniform systems and changes in the textile import industry during the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation. For the goal, the study investigated the content and features of that had been enacted under the Eulmi reforms. It also examined the status of the textile import industry at the time, especially in relation to outer garments such as jackets or Eui, trousers or Go, and overcoats. Moreover, this study inspected how the above westernization changed the textile import industry. More specifically, the research analyzed the content of based on articles from the then state newsletter or 『Gwanbo』, and the then cabinet meeting or Euijeongbu's proceedings or 『Euiju』. Concerning the textile import industry, this study looked into relevant descriptions and trade statistics from 『KOPEИ(Hankukji)』, and analyzed changes in that industry in connection with the introduction of Western military uniform systems. As a result, this study found that increased imports of cotton fabrics during the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation was correlated with surging demand for shirt or lining materials and increase in the use of Myeonyung following military uniform westernization. Similarly, an increase in silk fabric imports was an outcome of increased demand for lining materials. Also, the import growth of woolen fabrics was seemingly attributed to the use of Heuknasa and Heukyung as basic materials of military uniforms. Thus, military uniforms began to be made of fabrics, which hadn't been used before in the wake of westernization. This development brought changes in the textile import industry, which is supported by textile import statistics of the time. In conclusion, the westernization of military uniform systems under the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation was a significant factor that changed the industry.

• Journal of Internet of Things and Convergence
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.33-38
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• 2020

It was reported that a mobile application was designed to easily provide natural dyeing information such as natural dye related resources, colors and dyed fabrics in 2007. Since studies on the linkage, application, etc. between natural dye dyeing and IoT are still lacking, diversity of information on the change of dyeing pattern by natural dye dyeing is required. In this study, it was to construct dyeing information by natural dyes, e.g., Lithospermum erythrorhizon, on silk, which has been traditionally used as many fibers in Korea. The extraction of the dye from L. erythrorhizon was carried out under pH4. The dried root of L. erythrorhizon showed dark brownish purple. Silk fabric by a without a mordant typically showed a purple dyed pattern. In the staining by sodium tartrate plus citric acid, silk fabric was stained clear brown. Interestingly, the mordant of iron (II) sulfate, the silk fabric was dyed in a light gray color rather than black. When the mordant of aluminum potassium sulfate was treated with L. erythrorhizon-extracted dye, the results were almost the same as when the mordant was not treated. When the degree of dyeing was evaluated numerically, the treatment of the mordant of potassium dichromate was about 50% darker, and the dyeing by iron (II) sulfate was about 75% darker. These results will be helpful in the study of applying various dye colors using L. erythrorhizon, and it will provide information on dyeing controller and database system construction by dyeing parameters such as dyeing degree, pH concentration, and chromaticity change.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.3-14
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• 2016

This study is aimed to measure the physical colorimetric property according to three conditions, natural dyestuffs (Gardenia, Sappan wood, Lac, Gardenia blue, Mugwort, and Indigo), fabric types (cotton, silk), and presence of mordant (without, with), and then to evaluate the psychological sensibility. Also, to perform analysis of variance (ANOVA) to find out the differences of physical properties according to the three natural dyeing conditions, and to analyze the relationship between physical property and psychological property by Pearson's correlation analysis and then suggest the prediction model by regression analysis using SPSS program (ver. 21.0). Finally, to propose a certain sensibility image map of naturally dyed fabrics, MDS (Multidimensional Scaling) was used, and as a result, Gardenia dyed fabrics having the color sensibilities such as 'hard' and 'heavy' were suggested to evoke masculine image, and to evoke feminine image, Sappan wood and Lac having 'bright', 'transparent', 'soft' and 'light' sensibilities were suggested. Natural image might be induced by using 'subdued' Mugwort dyed fabrics, and active image might be induced by using 'showy' Indigo dyed fabric.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.11
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• pp.61-72
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• 2010

This is the analysis of material dyed with Korean yellow dyes such as tumeric, amur cork tree, goldthread, gardenia, and the flowers of sophora japonica using nondestructive ultraviolet-visible and fluorescence spectrophotometry. In order to find out whether type of fabric or mordant influences analysis results, test fabrics were made using two types of fabric(silk and cotton) and dyed using three different mordants(no mordant, alum, iron). After analysis with UV-Vis reflectance spectrum on the dyed fabric, when the fabric was dyed with tumeric, amur cork tree and goldthread, the results were similar with no mordant and alum mordant, whereas there was a difference with an iron mordant. Also when the fabric was dyed using gardenia, different fabrics brought different results but there was no difference in results with mordants. On the other hand, when the fabric was dyed using the flowers of sophora japonica, there was no difference with fabrics but with mordants. After analysis with 3D-fluorescence spectrum, fabrics dyed with tumeric, amur cork tree and goldthread showed their own fluorescent spectrum with no regard to fabric and mordant; but with gardenia, there were differences with different fabrics whereas with the flowers of sophora japonica, there were differences with mordants.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.968-973
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• 2009

To get a variety of colors on silk fabrics with natural dyes, mordanting and combination dyeing were carried out. Gromwell, sappan wood, safflower were used as the three primary colors for combination dyeing. Metal compounds containing alum and iron were used as mordanting agents. In combination dyeing of safflower and sappan wood, safflower and gromwell, gromwell and sappan wood, various colors were obtained according to the content of dyes used. Safflower/sappan wood dyeing showed different colors between yellow red and red purple of Munsell color circle such a YR, R and RP. And safflower/gromwell dyeing showed R, RP, P and PB Munsell color circle and then gromwell/sappan wood showed R, RP and P. As the result of these experiments, wide range of colors (YR-R-RP-P-PB-B) were obtained according to various mixing portion of safflower, gromwell, sappan wood, dyebath pH and repetition dyeing.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.26-43
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• 1973

This study was carried out on the Sewbility of Urethane Foam usually used as coldproof lining. The Sewability was estimated with the Puckering Grade and Seam Efficiency according to the thicknes of urethane foam, fineness and material of sewing thread, and the sort of covering fabric. The result shows the following ; 1. The thick foam proportinally shows the low Puckering Grade. 2. Effect on the sewability is small in fineness of sewing thread but large in material. Especially silk thread shows the greatest sewability in foam sewing. When the material of covering fabric is same as that of sewing thread (for example ; p/c fabric and p/c thread) the sewability is excellent in special. 3. Taffeta in covering foam is not suitable to foam sewing, satin and twill show superior sewability without reagrd to the thickness of foam. 4. In case of sewing foam covered with tricot, optimum thickness of foam and fineness of sewing thread through pretest must determine. 5. The thicker foam is the better seam efficiency tends, and Seam Efficiency largely effects to the strength of the sewing thread itself. 6. The seam Efficiency can heighten with the strength of sewing thread in proportion to that of covering fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.29
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• pp.85-98
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• 1996

WE SELECTED 30 SORTS OF PLANT-DYES WHICH WE CAN GET EASILY AROUND US DYED TEXTILE FABRICS THROUGH EXPERIMENTAL STUDIES AND GOT SEVERAL GOOD COLORS AS FOLLOWS WITH HISTORICAL REVIEW-ING ABOUT THE TRADITIONL NATU-RAL DYEING. 1. We got the colors of brown most com-monly yellow the nest black green and red in order of frequency 2. It is dyed more rapidly beautifully and deeply to the silk than to the cotton. 3. Salt worked the colors deeply K2CO3 more light FeSo47H2O more darkly and Alum the most beautifully and brightly as a mor-dant. 4. natural plant dyes contains various sorts of colors and we could confirm the possibility to create the composed implicit and secondary and tertiary colors through dual method of dyeing which couldnt's be got in the field of modern chemical dyes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.2
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• pp.101-110
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• 2009

This is a study regarding the development of cultural products with applied traditional Saekdong-image. The objective of this study is to develop unique cultural products which combine traditional korean images with modern feel by utilizing traditional Saekdong-image. Saekdong has been an object of deep attachment and regarded as a tool for expressing korean images from ancient times to the present. Chosun dynasty shows a wonderful growth of fashion not only in dress but also in such accessories as patchwork wrapping-cloth and Saekdong, which imply a lot on formation or color arrangement. Approximately 24 pieces of cultural products that can be used in daily life were created using Saekdong, including traffic or credit card cases, name card cases, pouches, coin purses, bags, Vest, teapot wrapping-cloth, brooch. After design plans were made for each works, natural dyes were used to dye(dip dyeing) the fabrics(cotton, silk, linen) by theme. In addition, the increased quality of the products will be a competitive edge in the world market where products compete with no national bounds.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.8
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• pp.971-977
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• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of nautral dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Rhusjara ica was studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Rhusjara ica were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The most absorbance of Rhusjara ica solution was 299 nm. The color of Rhusjara ica solution was affected by pH 8~9. The optimum temperature to extract Rhusjara ica was 6$0^{\circ}C$ and dyeing solution for 1 hour. Effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was 80~10$0^{\circ}C$, and its time was 30 min. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordanting treatment, specially Fe, Al, Cu. K/S value of pre-mordanting was higher than post-mordanting. In the case of Rhusjara ica fastness was increased by mordanting treatment.