• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.110-122
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• 2014

This study examined hwangbek dyeability for cotton, silk, and wool from different tree species and origin as well as their berberine and palmatine content. A total of 12 different hwangbek were examined, six purchased directly from different locations of China and six purchased from the Seoul Medicine Market. Hwangbek purchased from China were 3 Kwanhwangbek (Phellodendron amurense Rupr.) from Jilin, Liaoning, Heilongjiang and 3 Chunhwangbek (Phellodendron chinense Schneid.) from Sichuan, Yunnan, and Guangxi. Hwangbek purchased from the Seoul Medicine Market included 3 hwangbek that originated from Korea and 3 hwangbek imported from China. We extracted 2.5g of each hwangbek into 500mL of water for 60 min at $80^{\circ}C$. Dyeing was conducted using the IR dyeing machine for 30min at $55^{\circ}C$ using a 1:100 liquor ratio. Cotton was mordanted using tannic acid followed by potassium antimonyl tartrate trihydrate treatment before dyeing. Berberine and palmatine pigments in hwangbek were identified with the HPLC-DAD-MS instrument and the amount of pigment was quantified using an ion chromatogram. The results indicated that the K/S values of dyed fabrics were highly related to the amount of pigment in hwangbek used for dyeing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.58-70
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• 1998

The color difference value of fabrics dyed with browning extracts from mushroom were as follows. 1. Two hours of dyeing depending on pH at 95℃ exhibited colors of YR and Y. The color of wool and nylon was darkest brown at pH 4, but light brown or yellow as pH increased. The color of silk was darkest brown at pH 5 and pH changes resulted in the same tendency as in wool. 2. In wool the color was changed to darker brown as time prolonged, however, there was no further color change after 9hr and value and chroma of wool declined. 3. At pH 4, the increase in temperature turned colors of sil, wool and nylon into dark brown from light yellow. 4. As the result of repetitive dyeing, colors of silk, wool and nylon gradually turned into darker brown. The repetitive dyeing was more effective in dark color and high colorfastness compared to a prolonged dyeing. 5. The amount of mordant resulted in color changes between light yellow and dark brown without various color changed. 6. In color change according to methods of mordant, post-mordant with CuSO₄·5H₂O and with SnCl·2H₂O showed colors of green and light yellow, respectively.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.7-14
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• 2003

Fabrics dyed with artemisia extract have quite natural and elegant tones of color. This study purposed to find the best one for dyeing among artemisia collected in the four seasons in order to develop a more efficient method of dyeing with artemisia. As for the method of research, the researcher dyed wool fabric and silk fabric with artemisia, and measured dyeability according to the number of repeats of dyeing, coloration by post-mordant, color fastness to washing, color fastness to dry cleaning and color fastness to light. The results are as follows. 1. In dyeing with artemisia, dyeability was improved as the number of repeat of dying increased, and it was higher in wool fabric than in silk fabric. 2. Among artemisia collected in the four seasons, autumn artemisia had dyeability much inferior to that of artemisia from the other seasons, and winter artemisia had the best dyeability. 3. According to the result of treating fabric with post-mordant, the dyeability was improved significantly, and coloration was most remarkable when copper and iron mordant were used. 4. The color fastness to washing and color fastness to dry cleaning of fabric mordanted with artemisia were as high as grade 4-5 and grade 5 respectively. The color fastness to light was highest in winter artemisia as grade 4.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.140-146
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• 1999

Colorants in green tea were extracted freeze-dried and analyzed to investigate the possibility of using as a natural dye. Fractionation of the colorants was carried out by column chromatograpy. Colorants in green tea were eluted into five fractions. All the fractions except fraction F2 showed absorption peakat 280nm. Fraction f2 showed absorption peak at 270nm and broad peak at 350nm, From the IR analysis it is speculated that fractions F2-F5 having similar stucture but different molecular weight are catechis. Silk fabrics dyes with fractions F1-F4 showed yellowish red color while sample dyed with fraction F5 showed red color. The colorants from green tea infusion was applied to silk wool nylon cotton and rayon fabrices. It showed relatively good affinity to protein and polyamide fibers bur low affinity to cellulose and regenerated cellulose fibers.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.337-343
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• 2009

This study systematically investigated a method for extraction of safflower (Carthamus tinctorius Linnaeus) colorants by ultrasonic treatment. Compared to pigments productivity and cell wall structures of safflower after general and ultrasonic method, the ultrasonic method showed high extraction efficiency of safflower pigments due to destruction of safflower cell wall caused by high vibration energies. Microscopic analysis confirmed the hypothesis that the ultrasonic treatment of safflower caused its cell wall structure loosened and made efficient extraction of safflower pigments. And also, LC-MS/MS analysis revealed that productivities of the yellow and red safflower pigments by ultrasonic method were 21.9% and 14.6% higher, respectively, than those of pigments extracted by general method. The ultrasonic extracted yellow and red colorants could be used to dye not only natural fibers like cotton, silk and wool, but also synthetic fiber like nylon, and generally gave a better color tone than the general extracted colorants from safflower due to the affinities of red and yellow colorant on different fibers. As the yellow and red colorant were extracted by ultrasonic treatment in water, the K/S value on of 550/440nm of cotton and rayon was increased but in the case of silk and wool the change of this value was almost not detected. Finally, this technique might provide a solution to establish reproducibility and standardization for the extraction and dyeing methods on fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.667-675
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• 2013

After analyzing excavated $17-18^{th}$ century silk fibers through a scanning electron microscopy, we discovered seven different kinds of fracture morphology. Using Morton & Hearle fiber fracture morphology, we classified the findings into four different categories. Type I is tensile failure resulting from brittle fracture, granular fracture, and ductile fracture. Type II is fatigue failure caused by tensile fatigue, flex fatigue, and axial split (fibrillation). Type III is bacterial deterioration discovered only in excavated artifacts. Type IV is a combination of the three above. Humid underground conditions and the infiltration of bacteria caused the fibers to swell and weaken its interfibrillar cohesion. Fractures occur when drying and processing an excavated artifact that is already in a fragile condition. Therefore, one must minimize damage through a prompt cleaning process and make sure that the least possible force is exerted on the fabric during any treatment for repair and exhibition.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.60-70
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• 2003

Textile scientists have regarded the material appearance of natural fibers, especially that of silk or wool fibers, as the benchmark for reinventing the look and feel of the long term, friendly companion of mankind. The appearances or textures of the materials surrounding us in everyday life have long been interesting topics to many people.from scholars to painters. Even the simplest questions may require careful pondering. Why is the silk fabric so lustrous with subtlety? Recently, appearance models have become increasingly important in textile products. They are needed to model and simulate different models. In this study, the optical characteristics of filament yarns and knitted fabrics were investigated using images taken at various angles and illumination conditions. Then the images were analyzed using some image analysis techniques, such as thresholding and measuring luster blobs. The anisotropic nature of the filamentous specimens was studied based on the images acquired at different incident illumination and observing angles with several alignment positions of the fabric specimens. A few cylindrical models were generated using commercially available software, Rhinoceros, and then on the models, a ray-tracing algorithm based on a software, POV-Ray, was applied to simulate the appearance or lustrous images of the monofilament models.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.4 s.57
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• pp.576-588
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• 2005

The effect of chitosan pretreatment on the dyeing of cotton fiber and silk fiber was investigated. However, it has been difficult to evaluate the effect of the chitosan precisely, since the characterization of the molecular weight and effect of the degree of deacetylation were not elucidated for the application. The treatment effect may change diversely since the chitosan solution viscosity differs a lot based on the chitosan molecular weight. In this study, three chitosan specimens, varying in molecular weight, were applied for the fabric pretreatment in order to investigate the effect of chitosan molecular weight. Also, in order to maximize the efficacy of the chitosan, highly deacetylated chitosan specimens, meeting the deacetylation degree of $100\%$, were selected far the application. The air-permeability change according to the chitosan molecular weight change, influence on the mordanting, color change, and wash fastness change were investigated.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.87-96
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• 1995

Colorant concentrates are prepared by use of concentration method of colorants extracted from Sappan wood using met hanol. Dyeabilities and fastness properties of silk fabrics dyed with concentrate of Sappan wood are investigated.The results obtained are as follows; 1. The storage stability of colorant concentrate is poor as concentration is excess. 2. Because the colors of dyeings are different with mordants, aluminium acetate, copper acetate, chromium alum and tin chloride are used in order to obtain reddish color. 3. The optimum dyeing temperature and dyeing time are 6$0^{\circ}C$ and 60 min, respectively. 4. Dry cleaning fastness is very good, and light fastness and washing fastness are low. 5. The dyeing method is simple owing to usehess of colorant concentrate prepared without extraction of colorant every time.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.67-81
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• 2023

This study aims to examine the possibility of using dried Dondropanax morbiferus extract as a functional dye. The leaves and branches of were extracted with distilled water and 30% ethanol, and the dyeability and functionality of silk fabrics were examined according to the color characteristics of the extract and dyeing conditions. As a result of analyzing the ultraviolet and visible light absorption spectrum of the extract, it was possible to confirm the peak of flavonoid belonging to polyphenol, and the peak of riboflavin expressing yellow color was confirmed. Adsorption equilibrium was observed at 4% dyeing concentration and 60 minutes of dyeing time, and as the temperature increased, dyeing amount increased without color change of Y-series. Aluminum mordanting also increased the yellow color. The color fastness of washing and UV irradiation was low, but the color fastness of rubbing was evaluated as relatively good. The silk fabric dyed with the distilled water extract of the leaves showed a 99.9% bacteriostatic reduction against Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae, showing excellent antibacterial properties.