• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권6호
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• pp.772-780
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• 1998

The purpose of this research was to investigate the fiber content of and the characteristics of non-fibrous matters within the textiles exhumed from Keumreung-Ri, Pajoo of Kyunggi-do. Various microscopic methods' and the IR spectroscopy were used for the identification of fibers. The KS K 0251 Test Method as well as the IR spectroscopy and the SEM were used for the analysis of econ-fibrous matters. Fiber identification showed that each of the Pajoo samples were composed either of silk, cotton, or ramie. The results of the analysis of non-fibrous matters were as follows. The amount of water-extracted compound exceeded that of chloroform-extracted compound in both Pajoo 2 and Pajoo 5 samples. In Pajoo 5 sample which have already been dry cleaned using the mixed solution of n-hexane and n-dacane, the amount of chloroform extracted compound was 0% of the total extracted matter. The enzyme and HCI disintegration steps further removed the soils those were nonsoluble in water or chloroform. The most extraction was achieved at the HCI extraction stage.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권1호
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• pp.161-171
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• 2022

Traditional tie-dyeing is widely implemented in the clothing handicraft culture in China, South Korea, and Japan. Since it was developed 2,000 years ago, it has become a popular method of fabric making in the world and is highly respected by fashion designers. Based on the existing traditional tie-dyeing methods, this study conducted specific research on the 3D printing technology of the SLS laser method and the micro tool design application method of the clamp-dyeing process. Through the experimental methods of this study, it proposes to use the "7000 Nylon" material, which is commonly used in 3D printing, to develop a new clamp-dyeing tool. This new tool can be widely used in the clamp-dyeing of fabrics, such as cotton, hemp, silk, and some chemical fibers. The applied method and principle can be consistent with the traditional clamp-dyeing method. Therefore, the innovation of tie-dyeing technology is the best protection measure for the development and inheritance of traditional fabric making. The continuation of artistic life needs originality, which is also the best response to market competition. At the same time, this new design of the clamp-dyeing tool has the characteristics of novelty, innovation, and rich changes, which aligns with the new fashion demands of current fabric design.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제29권3호
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• pp.197-207
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• 2013

이산화질소($NO_2$) 농도에 따른 전통직물의 손상특성을 정량적으로 확인하고자 가스 열화실험을 수행하였다. 견, 면, 모시, 삼베의 무염색직물 시편, 천연염색(적색, 황색, 청색, 흑색)직물 시편을 온도 $20^{\circ}C$, 습도 50%, 환기횟수 1/hr 조건의 가스부식시험기 챔버 내에서 $NO_2$ 0.01, 0.1, 1, 10, 100, 1000 ppm 농도로 각각 1일 노출한 후 광학적, 화학적, 물리적 측정방법으로 손상도를 평가하였다. 이 결과, 전통직물은 $NO_2$ 1 ppm/day에서 색차 증가, 변퇴색등급 저하가 나타났고, 10 ppm/day에서 질산이온($NO_3{^-}$) 농도 증가, pH 감소, 카르보닐기 및 C-$NO_2$ 작용기 증가가 나타났으며, 100 ppm/day에서 인장강도 감소가 나타났다. 또한 무염색직물에서는 견, 삼베의 색차 증가, 삼베의 $NO_3{^-}$ 증가 및 인장강도 감소가 크게 나타났고, 염색직물에서는 청색, 황색직물의 색차 증가, 황색직물의 $NO_3{^-}$ 증가, 삼베, 모시의 인장강도 감소가 크게 나타났다. 이를 통해 $NO_2$에 의한 전통직물의 광학적, 화학적, 물리적 손상농도는 각각 1 ppm/day, 10 ppm/day, 100 ppm/day임을 도출하였다.

• 한국환경과학회지
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• 제14권8호
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• pp.793-800
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• 2005

We isolated and identified microorganisms from the aerial environment of domestic museums. The fungi, Penicillium spp., Alternaria spp., and Cladosporium spp. were isolated in many museums. It seems that these fungi are related to biological degradation of textile remains. A total of 14 kinds of bacterial strains were isolated: Acinetobacter spp., Pseudomonas spp., Neisseria spp., Alcaligenes spp., Shigella spp., Klebsiella spp., Corynebacterium spp., Aerococcus spp., Bacillus spp., Micrococcus spp., Citrobacter spp., Erwinia spp., Salmonella spp., and Providencia spp. Acinetobacter spp., Pseudomonas spp., Neisseria spp., and Alcaligenes spp. were the predominate bacteria found in samples with a variety of bacteria. This suggests that there is a relationship between bacteria and the damage of textile remains. In the museum, we isolated Alternaria spp, Geotrichum spp., Penicillium spp. Acinetobacter spp., Pseudomonas spp., Alcaligenes spp. from the entrance, exhibit hall and storage, but they were found in smaller number and species in the exhibit cases and paulownia cases. We concluded that paulownia cases were not influenced by the microorganisms because of quality of care provided by the museum staff. Corynebacterium spp., and Bacillus spp. were not detected at the entrance and exhibit hall but were detected in paulownia cases. It is presumed that those bacteria did not flow in from outside, but resulted from contaminants in paulownia cases. In the distribution of microorganisms associated with textile remains, more fungi were detected than bacteria. Acinetobacter spp., Pseudomonas spp., and Neisseria spp., were isolated from silk items. Penicillium spp. and Cladosporium spp. were isolated in the silk and hump items. Aspergillus spp. and Penicillium spp. were isolated from the cotton items. On the other hands, there were no fungi strains in the wool items. Most of the isolated strains from textile remains were aerial microorganisms from the museum environment. These results suggest that textile remains were apt to contaminated by contact with the air.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.47-57
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• 2007

This study focused on the properties natural dyeing and natural material and on the development of functional material for well-being in apparel industry. Comus officinalis Siebold et Zuccarini is used as natural dyeing material which had been reported that have curable effect for unbalanced immunity, geriatric diseases like urinary tract system, diabetes, hypertension, arthritis, tinnitus, hyperhidrosis and women's diseases like hypermenorrhea. And this material also has anti-cancer effect so that can restraint cancer cells. 3 kinds tester of cotton, wool and silk are dyed by boiled with each dye (flower, fruits, bark of tree) as first dyeing and dried in the shade. These testers are done by post-mordanting method. Aluminium Potassium(Alk(SO4)2), Cuprie Sulfate($CuSO4{\cdot}5H2O$), Stannous Chloride($SnCl2{\cdot}2H2O$), Ferrous Sulfate($FeCl2{\cdot}4H2O$), Titanium Sulfate 24% aqueous solution(Ti(SO4)2) are used as mordants. Dyeing results of Comus officinalis Siebold et Zuccarini flower and bark are shown as yellow color series. And dyeing result of fruits is pink color series. Silk shows the best dyeing property. As the point of view for dyeing property, Ti, Sn, Fe would be the properchoice for mordant. Following results are extracted in this study. Yellow color is resulted in dyeing with Cornus officinalis flower as non-mordanting condition. Yellowish red color is come from dyeing with Comus officinalis fruit as non-mordanting condition. Grayish yellow tone is resulted in dyeing with bark as non-mordanting condition. Orange tone color with Ti-mordanting, green tone color with Sn-mordanting and gray tone color with Fe-mordanting is resulted respectively. However light-fastness of Comus officinalis(flower, fruit, bark) is very low as 1 or 2 level in non-mordanting condition, Comus officinalis flower dyeing is turned out 3 or 4 level and fruit dyeing is 4 or 5 level, bark dyeing is 2 or 3 level with Ti-mordanting respectively. Eventually Comus officinalis fruit has the best light-colorfastness property among all of dyes. dry cleaning colorfastness of Cornus officinalis(flower, fruit, bark) is good as 4 or 5 level in Ti-mordanting condition, perspiration-colorfastness of Cornus officinalis(flower, fruit, bark) is good as 4 or 5 level in Ti-mordanting condition, With these results, this study could conclude that dye-ability, colorfastness problem is getting better after mordanting process and practical usage would be possible.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제28권2호
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• pp.92-100
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• 2016

To chemically prepare polypyrrole(pPy) coated fabrics(silk, cotton and nylon fabrics), the fabrics were first soaked in 0.4M oxidant $FeCl_3$/0.06M dopant anthraquinone-2-sulfonic acid solution for 5min at room temperature, and subsequently soaked in a 0.4M monomer pyrrole aqueous solution for 5min at room temperature. The content(wt%) of coated pPy in the coated fabrics was controlled by the number of treatments(these two steps). This study examined the effect of the number of treatments/pPy content on the sheet resistance, mechanical/bending properties and color behaviors of pPy coated fabrics. The coated pPy content, sheet resistance(${\Omega}$/square) and color strength(K/S) of pPy coated fabrics increased sharply with increasing number of treatments up to 20 times, while the increase slowed down afterward. The tensile strength, elongation at break and lightness($L^*$) decreased with increasing number of treatments. The tensile modulus and bending rigidity of coated fabrics increased significantly with increasing number of treatments/coated pPy content. This indicated that the flexibility of coated fabrics decreased considerably.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.730-738
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• 2012

This study proposes a process to design and analyze stage costumes by design elements for the costumes of the Korean traditional music cantata 'I Will Rise'. This study states fundamental references to make costumes of similar performances in the future and develop costume designs based on the format of a play. The findings are as follows. First, the costume production process of 'I Will Rise' is conducted in the order of directing intentions and script analysis, costume design, miniature production, costume production, costume modification, run, and post-production. Second, an overall Korean silhouette is expressed through the creation of costumes based on the construction of Korean traditional clothing (hanbok); however, from a detail perspective, a modernistic sensitivity is expressed through the use of modern elements (wing shoulders attached to shoulders, narrow ribbons made in a string form, and wristlets and belts) not found in hanboks. Third, tie-dying is applied to the costume colors of each character to highlight the traditional and unique feeling of dye and symbolic colors that effectively represent each role used to communicate the storyline and character emotions to the audience. Fourth, materials for costumes are cotton and linen (frequently used to create the texture of a Hanbok) as the costume of each character is emphasized to the use of additional and detailed materials such as artificial leather, hemp, and silk.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.661-672
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• 2015

In this study, nine scarf designs expected to be effective for accent design for the fashion style of new senior women were suggested by reflecting purchase behavior and scarf preference after conducting surveys and an analysis by targeting 136 new senior women in order to propose scarf design-matching with the preferences of new seniors. As a result of the study on the scarf purchase features of new seniors, it was revealed that the purchase time for scarves was mainly autumn and winter, even though it is regardless of season, and in spring and summer, they seldom purchased scarves. The purchase frequency was four times a year, and what they first thought of at the time of purchase was represented in the order of color, design, and the material of the scarf. They most preferred department stores, mixed and achromatic colors, cotton and silk fabrics, natural and geometric patterns, and long scarves of a rectangular shape. In the case of the consumer attributes of scarves, it was revealed that $50^{th}$ desired more individuality-oriented, unique scarf designs than $60^{th}$, and $60^{th}$ desired scarf designs with convenient management considering others' attention compared with $50^{th}$. As concepts for scarf designs, the aspects of individuality, co-existence, and maturity were extracted by reflecting the features of new senior women, and a total of nine scarf designs were suggested by developing three sub-designs for each concept.

• 복식
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• 제65권6호
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• pp.112-132
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• 2015

Banya was a concubine slave of Shindon(辛旽) who was a powerful monk in late Goryeo Dynasty, as well as the mother of King Woo(禑王), a successor of King Gongmin(恭愍王). This study was undertaken to investigate the sources of costume for Banya. The study focused on the features of Buddhist service costume, street wear, and daywear for common women's costume during the prime age of the Buddhist culture. The study looked into Buddhist paintings, old documents, advanced research, and relics. There are three characteristics of historically investigated Buddhist service costume for Banya: Dallyeongpo(團領袍), long Jeogori made with black Ra(羅), and Jeogori with a long scarf. Skirt, under Jeogori, under skirt, Cho, Ra(羅), Neung (綾), Dan(緞), patterned ramie(紋紵), and Tapja(塔子) were included in all Buddhist service costume. And, street wear consisted of Women's Dapho(婦人搭忽), long Jeogori, skirt, underwear and black Ra beil(蒙首). Daywear consisted of Banbi(半臂), long Jeogori, and skirt, underwear made with cheap fabric, Ju(綢), ramie, and imported cotton. Plumper hair, silver comb and Biyeo, lining of light pink-colored thin silk(小紅薄絹), bronze openworked ornament that fixed the outerwear's opening, bronze needle case, Sutra box and heated gemstone could be matched for the Buddhist service costume. Bronze and heated gemstone could be used for ornaments of street wear and daywear. The investigation of ornaments was carried on by referring to presentation of overseas collections. Considering the limitation of the study on Goryeo costume due to the lack of research material, future studies including much more relics in oversea collections needs to be undertaken.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.79-93
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze designs of exhibition clothing in terms of the use of Korean image, to review objectively contents about the use of traditional image, understand external elements of works, and give directions and basic data for future works. This study selected the total 250 works as the subject of this study among the collected data. This study classified and examined the use of Korean image found in exhibition clothing according to period, item, line and form, material, technique of expression and accessary between 1996 and 2004. The results of analysis are as follows (1) The most artworks were comprised in adaptation were Choson costume. (2) Most of them were clothing works for female. The item of chima were the most preferred in use. (3) The straight lines are used more frequently than curved lines. Forms of skirts were applied to those of silhouettes, H and A form were common. (4) In terms of materials, traditional materials such as silk, linen and cotton were commonly used. (5) Geometric patterns and plant pattern were found more often than others. (6) In terms of techniques of expression, patchwork was most frequent, quilting, embroidery and pleating were ranked second, third and fourth. (7) In accessaries and other item, gorom were most common and norigae were ranked second. (8) As Korean image has been expressed by fine parts of traditional costumes, the traditional living item, and local symbols, the range of works are becoming wider.