• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제35권5호
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• pp.336-346
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• 2021

The prediction of wave conditions is crucial in the field of marine and ocean engineering. Hence, this study aims to predict the significant wave height through machine learning (ML), a soft computing method. The adopted metocean data, collected from 2012 to 2020, were obtained from the Korea Institute of Ocean Science and Technology. We adopted the feedforward neural network (FNN) and long-short term memory (LSTM) models to predict significant wave height. Input parameters for the input layer were selected by Pearson correlation coefficients. To obtain the optimized hyperparameter, we conducted a sensitivity study on the window size, node, layer, and activation function. Finally, the significant wave height was predicted using the FNN and LSTM models, by varying the three input parameters and three window sizes. Accordingly, FNN (W48) (i.e., FNN with window size 48) and LSTM (W48) (i.e., LSTM with window size 48) were superior outcomes. The most suitable model for predicting the significant wave height was FNN(W48) owing to its accuracy and calculation time. If the metocean data were further accumulated, the accuracy of the ML model would have improved, and it will be beneficial to predict added resistance by waves when conducting a sea trial test.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.7-17
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• 2007

Based on the Boussinesq wave model, the wave distribution in the Chagui-Do sea area in Jeju was simulated by applying the directional irregular waves at an incident boundary. The time and spatial variations of monthly mean wave height and period were investigated, which aims to provide basic information on optimal sites for wave power generation. The grid size and time interval of the Boussinesq wave model were validated by examining wave distributions around a surface piercing wall, fixed at sea bottom with a constant slope. Except for the summer season, the significant wave height is dominated by wind waves and appears to be relatively high at the north sea of Chagui-Do, which is open to the ocean, while it is remarkably reduced at the rear sea of Chagui-Do because of its blocking effect on incident waves. In the summer, the significant wave height is higher at the south sea, and it is dominated by the swell waves, which is contributed by the strong south-west wind. The magnitude of significant wave height is the largest in the winter and the lowest in the spring. Annual average of the significant wave height is distinctively high at the west sea close to the Chagui-Do coast, due to a steep variation of water depth and corresponding wave focusing effect. The seasonal and spatial distribution of the wave period around Chagui-Do sea reveals very similar characteristics to the significant wave height. It is suggested that the west sea close to the Chagui-Do coast is the mast promising site for wave power generation.

• 수산해양교육연구
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• 제26권5호
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• pp.1013-1025
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• 2014

Marine meterological characteristics off the coast in the East Sea between 2006 and 2013 were investigated by comparing the high wind-wave alert and moored-measured significant wave high. Monthly and yearly variations of the high wind-wave alert duration off the coast in the central part of the East Sea are correlated with those of the significant wave height measurement with their minima in June and 2008 and maxima in December and 2012. Both the high wind-wave alert duration and significant wave height increase remarkably during 2010-2013 when compared with during 2006-2009. The remarkable increase, occurring dominantly in December, seems to be related with Arctic oscillation variability. However, the comparisons reveal that only about a half of high wind-wave alerts satisfy the criteria for issuing the high wind-wave alert. To issue the high wind-wave alert, the wind speed at the sea should exceed 14 m/s or the significant wave height should be higher than 3 m. The high wind-wave alerts unsatisfying the significant wave height criteria are issued mainly during spring and summer. These results imply that additional surface buoy moorings in the open basin of the East Sea are necessary for more accurate issue of the high wind-wave alert.

• 한국환경과학회지
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• 제32권11호
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• pp.841-852
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• 2023

In this study, the significant wave height and wave period of a specially designed observation system that connected two drifting buoys to an ocean data buoy was observed for 23 days from February 7 to 29, 2020, and the results were compared and analyzed. The results indicated that, in comparison to the ocean data buoy, the drifting buoy exhibited greater variability in significant wave height over shorter time intervals. The wave period of the ocean data buoy also appeared longer than that of the drifting buoy. The greater the observed significant wave height and wave period from both the ocean data and drifting buoys, the more pronounced the differences between the two observation instruments become. Moreover, the study revealed that the disparity in observation methods between the ocean data and drifting buoys did not significantly affect the significant wave height characteristics, as long as the period remained unchanged for up to half of the observation time.

• 대한원격탐사학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한원격탐사학회 2002년도 Proceedings of International Symposium on Remote Sensing
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• pp.337-340
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• 2002

Monitoring of wave height is important primarily to reduce storm risks at sea and along the coast. Wave heights in recent years have increased 50% for the last 40 years, thus requiring intensive monitoring. Satellite altimetry offers a powerful tool for regular and extensive monitoring of the wave height. We extracted significant wave height (SWH) using several altimeter missions from 1987-1995 over the Northwest Pacific and compared with ECMWF reanalysis (ERA) products. For large wave heights > 2.5 m, the ERA wave heights are smaller than the altimetric ones, while for small wave heights the ERA wave heights are larger. Comparison in SWH between altimetric derivations and ERA model products shows the discrepancy of 0.46-0.21$\times$SWH(m).

• 한국해양환경ㆍ에너지학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.63-69
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• 2014

제주도 북동부 연안에서 추 동계에 관측된 파랑자료를 주파수 분석을 통해 파랑의 특성을 검토하였다. 그리고 최대파고를 산정하기 위해 1차 회귀식을 이용하여 유의파고와 최대파고를 비를 계산하였다. 또한, JONSWAP 스펙트럼을 계산하기 위해 계산 된 유의파고와 첨두주파수를 이용하여 관측해역에 맞는 ${\gamma}$값을 추정하였다. 그 결과, 유의파고의 경우 1 m이하의 파랑이 가장 높은 빈도를 가지고 발생하였으며, 1차 관측 시 평균 0.523 m로 관측이 되었고, 2차 관측 시 평균 0.423 m로 관측이 되었다. 그 중 가장 높은 유의파고는 9월 15일부터 9월 17일까지 발생된 태풍으로 인해 4.8 m로 관측되었다. 첨두주파수의 경우 0.12~0.15 Hz(주기는 약 6.67~8.33초)가 가장 높은 빈도로 나타났으며, 유의파고와 첨두 주파수를 이용하여 계산 된 ${\gamma}$값은 평균 2.72를 나타내고 있다. 또한 직선 회귀 식을 이용해 계산 된 유의파고와 최대파고의 비는 $1.635H_s$로 계산되었다.

• 한국해양환경ㆍ에너지학회지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.61-67
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• 2009

이 논문에서는 freak wave가 포함된 시계열 파랑자료를 분석하였다. freak wave가 포함된 자료와 포함되지 않은 자료에 대하여 여러 가지 파랑 특성을 비교하였다. 파랑 자료는 Yura 해역에서 24시간 연속으로 측정된 자료를 분석하였고, 그 중에서 freak wave가 발생한 30분 동안 파랑과 인접한 30분간의 파랑자료를 집중적으로 분석하였다. 최대파의 파주기가 가장 긴 주기가 아닌 것을 볼 수 있다. 최대파의 파주기는 평균파주기보다 약간 길며, 유의파의 파주기보다는 짧은 것을 볼 수 있었다. 비록 해상 상태는 높지만, 레일리분포로 파고의 확률분포를 잘 표시할 수 있었다. Freak wave의 발생 전후의 파랑자료를 비교해 보면, 파랑스펙트럼의 특성은 큰 차이를 보이지 않으며, 발생한 경우에 비선형성이 증가한 것을 볼 수 있다. 그리고 freak wave 발생 직 후에 오히려 유의파고의 크기가 크게 나타났다. 따라서 유의 파고가 높은 것이 항상 freak wave의 발생확률을 높이지는 않는 것을 볼 수 있다.

• 한국연안방재학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.111-120
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• 2019

In coastal morphological modelling, there are a number of input factors: wave height, water depth, sand particle size, bed friction coefficients, coastal structures and so forth. Measurements or estimates of these input data may include uncertainties due to errors by the measurement or hind-casting methods. Therefore, it is necessary to consider the uncertainty of each input data and the range of the uncertainty during the evaluation of numerical results. In this study, three uncertainty factors are considered with regard to the prediction of coastal erosion in Ilsan beach located in Ilsan-dong, Ulsan metropolitan city. Those are wave diffraction effect of XBeach model, wave input scenario and the specification of the coastal structure. For this purpose, the values of mean wave direction, significant wave height and the height of the submerged breakwater were adjusted respectively and the followed numerical results of morphological changes are analyzed. There were erosion dominant patterns as the wave direction is perpendicular to Ilsan beach, the higher significant wave height, and the lower height of the submerged breakwater. Furthermore, the rate of uncertainty impacts among mean wave direction, significant wave height and the height of the submerged breakwater are compared. In the study area, the uncertainty influence by the wave input scenario was the largest, followed by the height of the submerged breakwater and the mean wave direction.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.178-189
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• 2004

본 논문에서는 장기간 측정된 파랑자료를 이용하여 신뢰성 있는 항만설계를 하기 위한 평상파 산정에 대한 방법론을 제시하였다. 제안된 방법론을 부산항 내 해경부두 설계에 적용하여, 부산항 입구 조도 전면해상에서 장기간 측정된 파랑자료를 이용하여 97.5% 평상파를 산정하였다. 1993년 2월부터 2002년 12월까지 측정된 파랑자료를 파향별로 유의파고와 유의파주기의 결합분포를 구한 후, 포물선형 완경사 방정식 파랑모델을 이용하여 해경부두에서의 평상파 조건을 산정하였다. 해경부두 위치에서의 항만설계를 위한 97.5% 평상파의 파고는 1.06 m 이며, 이는 부산항 항외에서 입사되는 파향 E, 유의파고 1.75 m, 유의파주기 7 sec에 의해 생성되는 것으로 분석되었다. 부산항 내 풍파에 의한 평상파에의 영향을 검토하였으나, 항내 풍파는 평상파 산정에 영향이 없으며 항외에서 항내로 진입하는 너울성 파고의 영향이 지배적임이 밝혀졌다. 따라서 항내의 풍파의 영향만을 고려하여 평상파를 추정하였을 경우 심각한 오류가 있음을 알 수 있었다.

• 대한원격탐사학회지
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• 제29권6호
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• pp.631-644
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• 2013

Significant Wave Height (SWH) data measured by satellite altimeters (Topex/Poseidon, Jason-1, Envisat, and Jason-2) were validated in the seas around Korea by comparison with wave height measurements from marine meteorological buoy stations of Korea Meteorological Administration (KMA). A total of 1,070 collocation matchups between Ku-band satellite altimeter data and buoy data were obtained for the periods of the four satellites from 1992 to the present. In the case of C-band and S-band observations, 1,086 matchups were obtained and used to assess the accuracy of satellite SWH. Root-Mean-Square (RMS) errors of satellite SWH measured with Ku-band were evaluated to roughly 0.2_2.1 m. Comparisons of the RMS errors and bias errors between different frequency bands revealed that SWH observed with Ku-band was much more accurate than other frequencies, such as C-band or S-band. The differences between satellite SWH and buoy wave height, satellite minus buoy, revealed some dependence on the magnitude of the wave height. Satellite SWH tended to be overestimated at a range of low wave height of less than 1 m, and underestimated for high wave height of greater than 2 m. Such regional characteristics imply that satellite SWH should be carefully used when employed for diverse purposes such as validating wave model results or data assimilation procedures. Thus, this study confirmed that satellite SWH products should be continuously validated for regional applications.