• Title/Summary/Keyword: Significant wave height

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Characteristic Features Observed in the East-Asian Cold Anomalies in January 2011 (2011년 1월의 동아시아 한랭 아노말리 특성)

  • Choi, Wookap;Jung, Jiyeon;Jhun, Jong-Ghap
    • Atmosphere
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    • v.23 no.4
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    • pp.401-412
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    • 2013
  • East Asia experienced extremely cold weather in January 2011, while the previous December and the following February had normal winter temperature. In this study National Centers for Environmental Prediction/National Center for Atmospheric Research (NCEP/NCAR) reanalysis data are used to investigate the characteristic features observed in the meteorological fields such as temperature, sea-level pressure, geopotential height, and wind during this winter period. In January the planetary-wave pattern is dominated by stationary-wave form in the mid-to-high latitude region, while transient waves are significant in the previous month. To understand the planetary-wave features quantitatively, harmonic analyses have been done for the 500-hPa geopotential height field. In the climatological-mean geopotential heights the wave numbers 1, 2, and 3 are dominant during the whole winter. In January 2011 the waves of number 1, 2, and 3 are dominant and stationary as in the climatological-mean field. In December 2010 and February 2011, however, the waves of number 4, 5, and 6 play a major role and show a transient pattern. In addition to the distinctive features in each month the planetary-wave patterns dependent on the latitude are also discussed.

Experiments of Wave Heights in front of a Perforated Wall under Obliquely Incident Waves:Monochromatic Wave Conditions (경사입사파 조건에서 유공벽 전면의 파고분포에 대한 실험:규칙파 조건)

  • Lee, Jong In;Kim, Young Taek
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.32 no.5B
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    • pp.301-312
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    • 2012
  • This study investigates the wave height distributions in front of a perforated wall generated by obliquely incident monochromatic waves through laboratory experiments conducted in a wave basin. Attention is paid to the difference or similarity between a plain wall and a perforated wall. And the investigation is focused on the chamber width and side wall effects of a perforated wall on the propagation characteristics of waves. The main results of this study show that the normalized wave height along a perforated wall is a significant difference compare to a plain wall cases. The side wall in the chamber suppresses the growth of the stem waves.

Wave Hindcasting on the Storm Waves at the Korean Straits of April, 2016 (2016년 4월 대한해협 폭풍파랑 후측모의 실험)

  • Chun, Hwusub;Ahn, Kyungmo
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.29 no.1
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    • pp.36-45
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    • 2017
  • In the present study, the storm waves at the Korean Straits of April, 2016 have been reproduced by the wave hindcasting, and then their characteristics were investigated. Before the wave hindcasting, the wave measurements at the Korean Straits were analyzed. The analysis showed that the waves at the Korean Straits were dominated by the Northeastern waves, same as those in the East Sea. Accordingly, the wave hindcasting was been carried out with the same condition in Ahn et al. (2016). In the numerical results, the maximum significant wave height at the Korean Straits was 5.06 m, and the corresponding significant wave period was 9.2 s. The computed significant wave heights and wave periods were overestimated by 4 cm and 0.8 s, respectively. After the wave hindcasting, the computed significant wave heights and peak periods were compared with the JONSWAP relationship. This comparison showed that the storm waves at the Korean Straits were close to wind waves, not swell.

Study of Nonlinear Wave Diffraction Using the 2-Dimensional Numerical Wave Tank (2차원 수치 파수조를 이용한 비선형파 산란의 연구)

  • 김용직
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.7 no.2
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    • pp.9-18
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    • 1993
  • Numerical wave tank is a robust tool by which the nonlinear interactions between the body and the free-surface can be treated in time-domain. In this paper, a two-dimensional numerical wave tank based on the Spectral/Boundary-Element Method is developed, and applied successfully to the study of nonlinear wave diffraction around a submerged circular cylinder. Particularly, it is shown that the high-order wave components of significant wave height are developed in the lee-side of the cylinder and that these waves result in a negative drift force on the circular cylider.

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Characteristics of the Differences between Significant Wave Height at Ieodo Ocean Research Station and Satellite Altimeter-measured Data over a Decade (2004~2016) (이어도 해양과학기지 관측 파고와 인공위성 관측 유의파고 차이의 특성 연구 (2004~2016))

  • WOO, HYE-JIN;PARK, KYUNG-AE;BYUN, DO-SEONG;LEE, JOOYOUNG;LEE, EUNIL
    • The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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    • v.23 no.1
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    • pp.1-19
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    • 2018
  • In order to compare significant wave height (SWH) data from multi-satellites (GFO, Jason-1, Envisat, Jason-2, Cryosat-2, SARAL) and SWH measurements from Ieodo Ocean Research Station (IORS), we constructed a 12 year matchup database between satellite and IORS measurements from December 2004 to May 2016. The satellite SWH showed a root mean square error (RMSE) of about 0.34 m and a positive bias of 0.17 m with respect to the IORS wave height. The satellite data and IORS wave height data did not show any specific seasonal variations or interannual variability, which confirmed the consistency of satellite data. The effect of the wind field on the difference of the SWH data between satellite and IORS was investigated. As a result, a similar result was observed in which a positive biases of about 0.17 m occurred on all satellites. In order to understand the effects of topography and the influence of the construction structures of IORS on the SWH differences, we investigated the directional dependency of differences of wave height, however, no statistically significant characteristics of the differences were revealed. As a result of analyzing the characteristics of the error as a function of the distance between the satellite and the IORS, the biases are almost constant about 0.14 m regardless of the distance. By contrast, the amplitude of the SWH differences, the maximum value minus the minimum value at a given distance range, was found to increase linearly as the distance was increased. On the other hand, as a result of the accuracy evaluation of the satellite SWH from the Donghae marine meteorological buoy of Korea Meteorological Administration, the satellite SWH presented a relatively small RMSE of about 0.27 m and no specific characteristics of bias such as the validation results at IORS. In this paper, we propose a conversion formula to correct the significant wave data of IORS with the satellite SWH data. In addition, this study emphasizes that the reliability of data should be prioritized to be extensively utilized and presents specific methods and strategies in order to upgrade the IORS as an international world-wide marine observation site.

Systematic Approach for Predicting Irregular Wave Transformation (불규칙파랑의 계통적 취급수법)

  • 권정곤
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.2 no.2
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    • pp.83-95
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    • 1990
  • It can be assumed that the ocean waves consist of many independent pure sinusoidal components which progress in arbitrary directions. To analyze irregular sea waves, both the spectrum method and the individual wave method have been used. The spectral approach is valid in the region where the water depth is deep and the linear property of velocity distribution is predominent, while the individual wave analysis method in the region where the water depth is shallow and the wave nonlinearity is significant. Therefore, to investigate the irregular wave transformation from the deep water to the shallow water region, it is necessary to relate the frequency spectrum which is estimated by the spectrum analysis method to the i oint probability distribution of wave height, period and direction affected by the boundary condition of the individual wave analysis method. It also becomes important to define the region where both methods can be applied. This study is a part of investigation to establish a systematic approach for analyzing the irregular wave transformation. The region where the spectral approach can be applied is discussed by earring out the experiments on the irregular wave transformation in the two-dimensional wave tank together with the numerical simulation. The applicability of the individual wave analysis method for predicting irregular wave transformation including wave shoaling and breaking and the relation between frequency spectrum and joint probability distribution of wave height and period are also investigated through the laboratory experiment and numerical simualtion.

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Macrotidal Beach Classifications Considering Beach Profiles and Changes: The Case of Beaches in Taean Region (2017-2018) (지형형태와 변화를 반영한 대조차 해빈 분류: 태안지역 해빈을 사례로(2017-2018))

  • Kim, Chan Woong
    • Journal of The Geomorphological Association of Korea
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    • v.26 no.4
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    • pp.47-65
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    • 2019
  • A case study was conducted in Taean region to seek a more detailed macrotidal beach classification than existing beach classification models (Masselink and Short, 1993). Seepage and ridge & runnel were used for classification. On 20 beaches, 68 transects were surveyed 5 times using VRS-GPS. Cross-section area from the transect profiles, mean grain size from sediment analysis, significant wave height from Swan-wave modeling and beach embaymentization from aerial photograph analysis were used to identify the characteristics of the individual types. The transects were classified into 5 types in Taean region; Type 1: low tidal terrace, Type 2: low tidal terrace & ridge, Type 3: dissipative, Type 4: seasonal ridge, and Type 5: ridge & runnel. Generally, seepage was related to coarse sediment size and ridge & runnel was related to high significant wave height. Each type has different characteristics and there was a tendency between the types. The low tidal terrace type had coarse sediments, because this type is excluded from the littoral cell. In this study, the ridge and runnel type could be applied to the classification because the study area is limited only to the macrotidal environment in Taean region.

Analysis of Interaction of Jet-like Current and Wave using Numerical Simulation (수치모의를 통한 유사제트-파랑의 상호작용 해석)

  • Choi, Jun-Woo;Bae, Jae-Seok;Roh, Min;Yoon, Sun-Bum
    • 한국전산유체공학회:학술대회논문집
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    • 2008.03b
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    • pp.675-678
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    • 2008
  • The effect of wave and current interactions on jet-like current flowing against waves was investigated based on numerical simulations. The numerical simulations are conducted by a combined model system of REF/DIF(a wave model) plus SHORECIRC(a current model) and a Boussinesq equation model, FUNWAVE. In the simulations, regular and irregular waves refracted due to the jet-like opposing current were focused along the core region of current, and the jet-like current was earlier spreaded when the waves had larger wave heights. The numerical results show that the rapid change of wave height distribution in transverse direction near current inlet plays a significant role to spread the jet-like current. In other words, the gradients of radiation stress forcing in transverse direction have a more significant effect on the jet-like current than its relatively small gradients forcing in flowing direction, which tend to accelerate the current, do. In conclusion, it is indispensible to take into account the interaction effect of wave transformation and current characteristics when waves meet the opposing jet-like current such as river mouth.

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Analysis of Wave Characteristics near Wangdeungdo through Southwest Sea Wave Hindcasting (서남해 파랑 후측모의 실험을 통한 왕등도 인근 파랑 특성 분석)

  • Young Ju Noh;Min Young Sun
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.36 no.2
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    • pp.61-69
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    • 2024
  • Wave conditions are crucial for offshore wind farm design, particularly in determining structural loads and layout. However, there is limited wave hindcasting research for the Wangdeungdo Island area, a potential offshore wind site. This study used the MIKE21 model for a year-long wave hindcast around Wangdeungdo in 2021. Validation showed high reproducibility for significant wave heights with RMSE values of 0.177 and 0.225 and Pearson correlations of 0.971 and 0.970 at Sangwangdeungdo and Buan buoys. Subsequent analysis of the wave characteristics near Wangdeungdo indicated significant seasonal variations and differences in maximum significant wave heights across locations, which are expected to significantly impact the design loads for offshore wind structures.

Effects of demi-hull separation ratios on motion responses of tidal current turbines-loaded catamaran

  • Junianto, Sony;Mukhtasor, Mukhtasor;Prastianto, Rudi Walujo;Jo, Chul Hee
    • Ocean Systems Engineering
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    • v.10 no.1
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    • pp.87-110
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    • 2020
  • Catamaran has recently been a choice to support a typical vertical axis turbine in floating tidal current energy conversion system. However, motion responses associated with the catamaran can reduce the turbines efficiency. The possibility to overcome this problem isto change the catamaran parameter by varying and simulating the demi-hull separations to have lower motion responses. This simulation was undertaken by Computational Fluid Dynamic (CFD) using potential flow analysis. Cases of demi-hull separation were considered, with ratios of demi-hull separation (S) to the breadth of demi-hull (B), S/B of 3.45, 4.95, 6.45, 7.2 and 7.95. In order to compare to the previous works in the literature, the regular wave was set with wave height of 0.8 m. Furthermore, the analysis was carried out by irregular waves with significant wave height, Hs, of about 0.09 to 1.5 m and the wave period, T, of about 1.5 to 6 s or corresponding to the wave frequency, ω, of about 1.1 to 4.2 rad/s. The wave spectrum was derived from the equation of the International Towing Tank Conference (ITTC). For the case of turbines-loaded catamaran under consideration, the new finding is that the least significant amplitude response can be satisfied at the ratio S/B of 7.2. This study indicates that selecting a right choice of demi-hull separation ratio could contribute in reducing motion responses of the tidal current turbines-loaded catamaran.