• Journal of Wetlands Research
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.423-430
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• 2013

An algorithm to allow shoreline movement during numerical experiment on sediment transport, deposition or resuspension for general coastal morphology is proposed here. The bed slope near shoreline, i.e. mean sea level, is influenced by bed material, tidal current, waves, and wave-induced current, but has been reported to remain within a stable range. Its annual variation is not large, either. The algorithm is adjusting the bathymetry, if the largest bed slope within shoreline band exceeds a given bed slope due to continuous erosion at zones below the shoreline. This algorithm automatically describes retreat of shoreline caused by erosion, when used within a numerical system. The algorithm was tested to a situation which includes a continuous dredging at a point, and showed satisfactory development of concentric circle contours. Next, the algorithm was tested to another situation which includes sinking of eroded part of bed plate, and produced satisfactory results, too. Finally, the algorithm was tested to a movable-bed laboratory experimental conditions. The shoreline movement behind detached breakwater was reasonably reproduced with this algorithm.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.320-333
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• 2019

In this study, a physics-based 3D morphology model for the estimation of an erosion rate of nourished beach is newly proposed. As a hydrodynamic module, IHFOAM toolbox having its roots on the OpenFoam is used. On the other hand, the morphology model comprised a transport equation for suspended sediment, and Exner type equation derived from the viewpoint of sediment budget with the bed load being taken to accounted. In doing so, the incipient motion of sediment is determined based on the Shields Diagram, while the bottom suspended sediment concentration, the bed load transport rate is figured out using the bottom shearing stress directly calculated from the numerically simulated flow field rather than the conventional quadratic law and frictional coefficient. In order to verify the proposed morphology model, we numerically simulate the nonlinear shoaling, breaking over the uniform beach of 1/m slope, and its ensuing morphology change. Numerical results show that the partially skewed, and asymmetric bottom shearing stresses can be successfully simulated. It was shown that sediments suspended and eroded at the foreshore by wave breaking are gradually drifted toward a shore and accumulated in the process of up-rush, which eventually leads to the formation of swash bar. It is also worth mentioning that the breaker bar formed by the sediments dragged by the back-wash flow which commences at the pinnacle of up-rush as the back-wash flow gets weakened due to the increased depth was successfully duplicated in the numerical simulation.

• Korean Journal of Environment and Ecology
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.215-230
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• 2005

To analyze physical and ecological characteristics of sand streams, Cheongmi, Yanghwa and Bokha streams on the similar environment were Lnvestigated and estimated. According to the estimation results of physical structures, ecological properties of the Cheogmi and Yanghwa streams were classified as 'fair to good', and the Bokha stream was classified as 'fair'; commonly, the representing streams were comparatively active on meandering and accumulation; on the other hand, erosion was less active. As a result of the study for flora on this 3 streams, $Phaiaris\;arundinacfa\rightarrowPhragmites\;japonica\rightarrowPhragmites\;communis\rightarrowSalix\;koreensis\rightarrowFraxinus\;rhynchophylla\rightarrowRobinia\;pseudo-acacia-Acer$ ginnala communities were developed in order of being closest to the water shore. In case of benthic macroinvertebrates, Ephemera striga ta Eaton and Cajopteryx atrata Selys, usually inhabited in the uncontaminated water, were investigated as common species. Besides, Limnodrilus gotoi Hatai and Family Chironomidae sp. 1 were the common dominant benthic macroinvertebrates.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.584-596
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• 2005

Morphology, surface sediments, sedimentation rates and sea-cliff erosion have been monitored, for one year to investigate the shoreline changes and tidal beach characteristics in Cheonsu Bay along the west coast of Korea. The seacliff of the bay consists of intensively weathered sedimentary rocks and soft soil, showing an erosion range of $-58.9\~73.3cm/yr$ by a weak wave forcing. Active sea-cliff erosions are recognized by peculiar geomorphic features, including saw teeth-shaped coastline, gravels, relict weathered basement-rock and 'Island Stack' exposed on the high-tide beach surface. The beach sediments show low compositional maturity at the south and north headlands and gradually high towards the central part. This observation seems to be caused by the fact that beach sediments are to originate from the both headlands in the study area and then transported by long-shore current associated with a wave action.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.493-500
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• 2019

In this study, sensitivity analysis of sediment transport scaling factors in Delft3D-Morphology was performed to examine the effect those parameters on simulation results of cross-shore profile changes. For numerical experiments, one-year wave time series data which were observed in 2018 on the Maengbang coast in Gangwon prefecture were applied as external force. Bathymetric data observed in January and October of the same year were used as initial bathymetric data and annual bathymetric change data, respectively. The simulation performance of the model was evaluated based on the Brier Skill Score index for each part by dividing an arbitrary cross section within the calculation domain into the onshore and offshore parts. As a result, it was found thet the f_BED variable has a slight effect on the simulation results. The f_BEDW and f_SUSW variables show good simulation performance in onshore part when the value less than 0.5 is applied and vice versa. Among the experimental conditions, the optimal combinations of variables are f_BED = 1.0, f_BEDW = 1.0, f_SUSW = 0.1 for the onshore region and f_BED = 1.0, f_BEDW = 1.0, f_SUSW = 0.5 for the offshore region. However, since these combinations were derived based on the observation data on Maengbang beach in 2018, users should be careful when applying those results to other areas.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.44-51
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• 2008

The planning and design of coastal structures against wave attack is required to accurately predict wave transformation, wave run-up, and fluid. particlevelocities an a slope. On tire other hand, in tire swash and surf zones of a natural beach, where coastal erosion and accretion occur at tire land-sea boundary, hydrodynamic analysis is essential. In this study, a RBREAK2 numerical model was created based on the nonlinear shallow water equation and laboratory measurements were carried out in terms of tire free surface elevations and velocities for tire cases of regular and irregular waves on 1 : 10 and 1 : 5 impermeable slopes. The data were used to evaluate tire applicability and limitations of tire RBREAK2 numerical model. The numerical mode1 could predict tire cross-shore variation of the wave profile reasonably well, but showed more accurate results for slopes that were steeper than 1 : 10. Except near tire wave crest, tire computed depth averaged velocities could represent tire measured profile below tire trough level fairly well.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.116-122
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• 2018

Dean's equilibrium beach profile formula was used to investigate the correlation between the static shoreline position and the incident wave energy. The effect of the longshore sediment transport was neglected, and the results showed the reasonable agreement compared with the field observations of Yates et al.(2009), which were conducted for almost 5 years on southern California beaches, USA. The shoreline response varies with the scale factor of Dean's equilibrium beach profile. This implies that the shoreline response could be simply estimated using the sampled grain size without laborious long-term field work. Therefore, the present study results are expected to be practically used for the layout design of submerged or exposed detached breakwaters although the further work is required for performance verification. In addition, after laborous mathematical reviews, the linear relation between incident energy and shoreline response, which was obtained from Yates's field study, yielded a clear mathematical equation showing how the beach slope is related to the grain size.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.289-304
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• 1995

Time series of the relative sea levels at the selected tide-gauge stations in the North Pacific and historical aerial photographs in the Hawaiian Islands are analyzed. Long-term rising trend of sea level ranges from +1 to +5 mm/yr at most of the stations, which is primarily due to global warming and tectonic motion of the plates. The annual and interannual fluctuations of sea level result from the thermal expansion/contraction of sea-surface layer due to the annual change of the solar radiation and possibly from a coupled ocean-atmosphere phenomenon associated with an ENSO event, respectively. Sea-level changes in three different time-scales (linear trend. annual oscillation, and interannual fluctuation) and their quantitative contribution to the shoreline changes as a result of long-term cross-shore sediment transport arc hypothesized.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.506-515
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• 2020

Surfing is a sport sensitive to changes in the natural environment, using naturally occurring waves. In other words, factors such as the construction of coastal structures, coastal erosion, and sediment transportation could cause the wave to change into a direction inappropriate for surfing at the shore where surfable waves were reaching. In this study, we call the characteristics of the coastal environment that affect the formation of surfable waves as surfing resources, which is subsequently analyzed by coastal engineering methodologies. Also, using Delft3D-WAVE module (SWAN model), a way to evaluate sustainability of surfable wave is suggested through analysis of surfing resources at Jukdo, Yangyang, Gangwon Province, Republic of Korea.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.19-30
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• 2020

To understand the impact of typhoons on Gamji gravel beach Taejongdae in Busan, we carried out beach profiling using a VRS-GPS system and a Drone photogrammetry for the typhoons 'Kong-rey' invaded in October 2018 and 'Danas' in July 2019. In addition, grain sizes are analyzed to investigate the overall distribution pattern of gravels on the beach, and the beach topography is surveyed periodically to confirm the recovery rate of the beach. Grain-size analysis reveals that mean gravel sizes, in general, become finer from -6.2Φ to -5.4Φ towards the east in the seashore line direction. Variation in mean sizes is obviously observed in the cross-shore direction. Gravels in the swash zone are relatively fine about -4.5Φ in size and equant in shape, whereas the coarse and oblate gravels ranged from -5Φ to -6Φ are found in the berm. Gamji gravel beach particularly has two lines of berms: a lower berm situated facing beach and an upper berm about 10 m landward. After the typhoon Kong-rey passed by, about 1.4 m of severe erosion in upper berm occurred, and the berm eventually disappeared. On the backshore of the upper berm about 50 cm of erosion took place so that the elevation became lower. However, tangible erosion was not observed in the lower berm. When typhoon Danas hit, rated as mild storm, both upper and lower berm were eroded out. However, about 50 cm of deposition occurred only in the backshore. Only three days later, the new lower berm was formed, meaning that sedimentation rate must be high. This result indicates that Gamji gravel beach is recovered very fast from erosion caused by the typhoons when it is under the fair-weather condition even though beach morphology changes dramatically in a short period of time. Gravel beach is estimated to be or evaluated very resilient to typhoon erosion.