• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.388-405
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• 2021

This study classifies the compositional methods of power shoulder jackets from 1980 to the present. It analyzes the relevance of jacket details according to how the power shoulder changes and its compositional methods by era. The research subdivides shoulder compositional techniques into seven, based on shoulder variation, sleeve variation, and the body and sleeve combination. The researcher investigates the frequency and trends of composing shoulders and analyzes details pertaining to the silhouette, jacket length, collar shape, and front closure. The most common method of shoulder composition is an angular shoulder variation. The others are a rounded shoulder variation, puffed sleeve, sleeve variation using pattern incision, raglan and kimono sleeves, and a shoulder variation that expanded the angle and width. The frequency differs slightly for each era. The relationship between shoulder compositional methods and details of power shoulder jackets is statistically significant, showing period-related differences. The homogeneity analysis results reveal that the shoulder composition of power shoulder jackets, the times, and details fall into distinct groups. This analysis shows that the silhouette, length, collar, and front closure of the power shoulder jacket differ depending on the power shoulder's compositional methods. Moreover, the shape of the power shoulder jacket is distinctly different. One can use this data to help develop the power shoulder jacket design by reflecting the details of shoulder compositional methods and changing trends over time.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.28-41
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• 1986

In the history of costume, coat can be traced up to ancient Persia but it was generalized as today's style around 14th an d15th century in Euro[pe. World wars, revolutions and rapid social changes of the last 80 years have produced more changes in the way people dress than any comparable period in history. Thewse changes enabled emergence of more modernized woman's garments and through it, dress and coat ensemble became public's main fashion. In 1920's after world war I, boyish style in woman's garment was in vogue. Woman's coat was also in the same style with length sortened up to the knee level and silhoutte was straighter and semi-fitted than previous period. Length of the coat was longer in late 1930's but shortened again in 1940's. And the most popular silhouette of both 30's and 40's was shape of the hourglass which was commonly called the "X-shape". Also double=breasted coat with fitted waistline, belt and flare skirt was in vogue. In 1950's and 60's, with the variety of lines in woman's garments, silhouette of the coat also appeared in many different forms. Along with the various shapes, color of the coat changed throughout the decades : dark colors in 20's, bright colors in 30's, mixed colors of 20's and 30's in 40's and in 50's, color had changed to archromatic. In fabric, wool was most popular in all periods. However, such gabrics as tweed, cotton, gaberdine, linen were added to give variety. It is very interesting to see collars trimmed with expensive furs were very popular in 20's and 30's but it almost disappeared in 40's and fur trimming reappeared in late 50's. In addtion to silhouette changes in design, details such as buttons, epaulettes, pockets and fur trimming of hemline were emphasizing points of varieties in design. This study has set time limits world war I which was the period coat became major fashion of woman's clothing, to 1960's.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.826-835
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to compare the similarity between actual and virtual pants using a virtual 3D CLO program. A subject corresponding to the average size of a women in her twenties was selected and an avatar with the same specifications was produced. Silhouettes of the pants were classified into trousers, slacks, and wide pants and images of actual and virtual pants were evaluated from the front, side, and back. The results were as follows: Overall, the resemblance of the trousers was evaluated higher than that of other pants. The average similarity of trousers was 4.20 at the front, 3.98 at the side, and 4.17 at the back, which was much like the actual clothing. In contrast, that of the slacks was 3.62, 3.73, and 3.79 and of the wide pants was 3.81, 3.53, and 3.97. The similarity between the actual and virtual clothing was relatively well reproduced when the shape of the pants was like the silhouette of the human body. However, if the pants were tight or loose, virtual fits failed to display the wrinkles caused by the tightness or the excessive slack. The virtual fit showed fewer wrinkles and did not depict the location and the shape of hemlines as accurately as the actual fit, although virtual fits adequately displayed the baseline and dart on the pants.

• International Journal of CAD/CAM
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.18-26
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• 2011

This paper proposes a new solid-shape modeling system based on a lusterware-image illustration. The proposed method reconstructs a three dimensional solid shape from a set of rough sketches that are typically drawn in the early stages of the design process. The sketches do not have to be strictly accurate, and this tolerance to the roughness of the input sketches is one of the major advantages of the proposed method. The proposed system creates an initial shape based on the silhouette of the input lusterware-images. Then the user can edit the initial shape with intuitive cutting and dishing-up operations, which are based on sketching user interface. To achieve the goal, the system retains the geometric model with two representations: a point-set data and a volume data. This dual data structure allows the program to create an initial shape from the input images with little computational cost, and the user can apply cutting and dishing-up operations without substantially increasing computational and memory requirements. In this research, we have tested the proposed system by reconstructing solid models of some mechanical parts from rough sketches. The experimental results indicate that the proposed method is useful for the prototyping of a solid shape.

• Journal of Intelligence and Information Systems
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.95-105
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• 2006

This paper proposes a novel approach to represent the image by using shape descriptor having an information of area. The proposed descriptor is a set of vectors, consists of radius, area and direction parameters in the concentrated center point. Due to the area parameter, we know our descriptor can obtain the information of area. Also, we give an extended shape descriptor to get more detailed representation. To do this, we move the center point of our vision to that point for region of interest. By doing so about all of region of interest, we can get our descriptor for detailed information of the image. From more detailed descriptor, it's natural that it's more efficient fur representation, retrievals and so on. We make it the normalized pattern and expand to improve its quality. The proposed method is invariant to scale, position and rotation. The results show that it can be used efficiently for image representation as we can see in retrievals of silhouette images.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1205-1220
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to verify the change of body posture by putting on the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice or waistcoat. This study analyzed the female somatotype which puts on upper garments of Victorian era with using 3D body scan technology. Two sets of $19^{th}$ century women's bodice and waistcoat patterns were developed with the $19^{th}$ century model size and those patterns were used for making the experimental garments. The fit of experimental garments was evaluated by the degree of change with posture and waist measurements. Three women with the same waist girth measurements with the model size were participated to the fitting test. The postural change was measured from cross-sectional body diagrams. The result of this study showed that the waist measurement of the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice and waistcoat pattern was smaller than the waist girth measurement. These garments compressed the midriff of the body and it made women's distinct body silhouette. The waist girth measurement of 1876 bodice pattern was 9.2cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 5.0~6.1cm after wearing the 1876 bodice garment. The waist girth measurement of 1880 waistcoat pattern was 7.1cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 2.7~3.7cm after wearing the 1880 waistcoat garment. The back side parts of their waist were compressed and their postures were changed. The neck and shoulders were moved forward after wearing the experimental garments. These results showed that body posture could be changed to "S" shape silhouette as wearing the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice or waistcoat.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.31-43
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the changes of modern Korean men's fashion from the 1960s to the 1990s by reviewing fashion magazine advertisements and pictorials. For theoretical study, the characteristics and the importance of apparel advertisements and the changes of modern Korean men's fashion trend were reviewed. On the basis of the theoretical investigation, this study analyzed 932 pictorials from Joongang Magazine, Shin Dong-A, Bokjangwolbo, Meot, Men's Life, WWD, and S.F.F.A's photograph album, published from 1962 to 1998. Content analysis method was used to analyze the content of magazines and pictorials. The 932 samples are classified into apparel types, silhouette, pattern, color, type of breasts, shape of collar, number of button, type of inner wear. Frequency and $x^2$-test were conducted using a SAS statistics package to analyse the data. The results were as follows. The two-piece style prevailed in men's wear during the 60s, 70s, and 90s, while separate style prevailed during the 80s. H silhouette was the most popular during the 60s, 70s and 90s, however, X silhouette dominated the 70s. For patterns, solids were most frequently used throughout the whole 4 decades. In colors, gray was most frequently used during the 60s, and multi color was most frequently used during the 70s, 80s, and 90s. Throughout the whole decades, single breast, tailored collar, two buttons, and dress shirts were the most prevalent styles.

• Journal of the Korea Computer Graphics Society
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.1-8
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• 2012

We present improved deformation energy to enhance the visual quality of a shape deformation technique, where we preserve the local structure of an input planar shape. The deformation energy, in general, consists of several constraints such as Laplacian coordinate constraint to preserve the quality of deformed silhouette edges, mean value coordinates and edge length constraints to preserve the quality of deformed internal shape, and user-specified position constraints to control the shape deformation. When the positions of user-specified vertices change, shape deformation techniques compute the positions of the other vertices by means of nonlinear least squares optimization to minimize the deformation energy. When a user-specified vertex changes its position rapidly, it is frequently observed that the visual quality of the deformed shape decrease rapidly, which is mainly caused by unnecessary enlargement of the Laplacian vectors and unnecessary change of the edge directions along the boundary of the shape. In this paper, we propose improved deformation energy by prohibiting the Laplacian and edge length constraints from changing unnecessarily. The proposed deformation energy incorporated with well-known optimization technique can enhance the visual quality of shape deformation along the silhouette and within the interior of the planar shape while sacrificing only a little execution time.

• Proceedings of the IEEK Conference
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• 2001.06d
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• pp.57-60
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• 2001

In this paper, we propose a new 3D object retrieval system using the shape information of 2D silhouette images. 2D images at different view points are derived from a 3D model and linked to the model. Shape feature of 2D image is extracted by a region-based descriptor. In the experiment, we compare the results of the proposed system with those of the system using curvature scale space(CSS) to show the efficiency of our system.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Precision Engineering Conference
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• 2005.06a
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• pp.177-180
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• 2005

Three dimensional shaded images are standard visualization method for CAD models on the computer screen. Therefore, much of the effort in the visualization of CAD models has been focused on how conveniently and realistically CAD models can be displayed on the screen. However, shaded 3D CAD data images captured from the screen may not be suitable for some application areas. Technical document, either in the paper or electronic form, can more clearly describe the shape and annotate parts of the model by using projected 2D line drawing format viewed from a user defined view direction. This paper describes an efficient method for generating such a 2D line drawing data in the vector format. The algorithm is composed of silhouette line detection, hidden line removal and cleaning processes.