• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.43-59
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• 2010

In the first half of 20th century, there was an abrupt change in society and social values. Therefore, a demand for functional women's sportswear started to increase. This paper has attempted to investigate the impact of functionalism on women's sportswear in the first half of the 20th century. The following results were obtained: First, anti-tradition was observed. There was a tendency to be separated from the past and against tradition. It was tried to pursue freedom, getting away from corset and petticoat. Second, structural functions were targeted. In other words, precise and efficient shapes and simple silhouette and line were emphasized. Third, fitness of purpose was found. More liberal and comfortable design has been targeted. That's why a variety of functional pants have been designed instead of skirts. Fourth, utility and practicality were found. Elastic fabrics such as wool and jersey and sweater have commonly used in sportswear. A variety of new fabrics have been used and details such as flare, slit and pleats have been designed. Lastly, non-ornamentality was found. The beauty of simple shape was pursued by omitting details or eliminating unnecessary ornaments. Monochrome and dark color were preferred and a use of accessories has declined. The result of this paper could be used in establishing a theoretical framework on the impact on social change, values and art and helpful In modern women's sportswear design and marketing which have become more important.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.27-40
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• 2002

The purpose of this thesis is presenting desirable design of uniform which could reflect high school girls' demands with the researches on their consciousness of fashion and actual state of uniforms. Methods to accomplish this research include first, examinationson characteristics of high school girls and their consciousness of fashion with relevant articles, second, interviews with designers from major domestic uniform brands - ELITE, IVY, SMART - and third, analysis on related internet sites. Practical researches are followed by design analysis and proposal of improvement on high school girls' uniform, accompanied by collection of photographs from field studies, major uniform brands' shops and uniform related internet sites. Korean high school girls in the digital era are able to express themselves in each different fashion with own individuality, preference or intention, as they are particularly interested in clothes or their appearances. Their consciousness of fashion became visible in a shape of negative attitude and dissatisfaction with uniforms due to its out-of-date design, lack of features and inconvenience in action. Besides more than half of high school girls already experienced reforming it for better looks. As a result of current analysis on references of uniform designs, various levels of refinement were noticed even in uniform of similar details, design, fabric textile and color due to differences on size & length of jacket collar, dart, cutting line, size of details, decorative line, easiness in fit, length of clothes, and etc. To provide students of more refined and desired designs which reflect their demands, current uniforms are to begin acquiring delicate changes with present vogue and feature such as size of details, silhouette, cutting line, decorative line and etc. In addition newly designed uniforms are to present desirable design with image of refinement and neat as they actively comprehend students' needs within its symbolic, functional, economic and aesthetic characteristics by nature.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.9 s.109
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• pp.1-13
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to apply a concept of open structure to clothing design and to verify the characteristics found in the various types of clothing which has open structure. The literatures from various academic fields including philosophy, literature, social science, architecture, and fine arts are investigated to define the concept of openness and to analyze it from the perspectives both of the visual and of the moaning of openness. This paper is to identify the types and the characteristics of clothing by future intention, complexity, discontinuity of open structure. By closely examining fashion design after 1980s found in fashion collection publications and designer's websites, the results of this study are as follows: first, the concept of openness can be classified into two different levels, that is, visual and meaning, secondly, in clothing the concept of open structure is applied to the meaning side by future intention, by complexity and by discontinuity. Open structure through future Intention has new content and interpretation and must have the possibility of intelligence awakening, future guidance and basic contents. Open structure through complexity has secondary function exists concurrent with the shape key example is the smart clothes with the digital functions. It has functions of amusement, supplement and protective, and is future clothes which satisfies with health, welfare, desire of beauty. Open structure with discontinuity is clothes with dramatic changes in system, structures and states. Structure can be changed by silhouette, detail, or fabric, material, or dramatic and practical function as tools in terms of productions and environment. This study can help to formulate and to integrate the concept of open structure in clothing with various phases and enhance the value of clothes by showing an application of the concept of openness to the clothing in meaning level.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.363-377
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• 2012

Most of the wedding shops in the domestic market are more focusing on simply copying the designs of foreign wedding dress designers than making their own designs. Beyond the purpose of how to improve the wedding dress designs which is what other previous studies were aiming, this study goes deeper than that, concentrating on separate designing of dress for a wedding celebration and a rehearsal with photo shoots. Add to this, the study also differentiates itself from others in the past, investigating how to make a gown that hides a bride's physical shortcomings. For this study, the researcher studied the literature in terms of theoretical review, and conducted the empirical research through the photo analysis of 2,725 wedding dresses which brides really wore according to domestic brides' body shapes, their images, and situations. The researcher designed 8 wedding dresses for wedding ceremony and rehearsal shooting for brides with thick arms or wide shoulder under the concept of 'Romantic Story in Your Heart'. The wedding dress's image types for photo analysis were limited to the romantic type, the elegance type, the modern type, and the classic type. The researcher applied the empire-silhouette, the one-shoulder neckline, the raglan sleeves, the cap sleeves, and the shoulder accessories to the wedding dress designs judged as effectively making up defects in body shape and making nice images as well as other design factors seen from the analysis result.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.249-259
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• 2022

To analyze recent changes in designer-specific garment composition, detail, and design elements of jackets, we classified jackets from the Paris Haute Couture Collection from 2000 S/S to 2019 F/W according to their designers and examined their characteristics. Our analysis of the jackets by Armani, Chanel, Dior, Jean-Paul Gaultier, and Valentino shows that the hour-glass silhouette was most common in Armani, Chanel, Dior, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Valentino jackets; Chanel used more straight silhouettes compared to other designers. Most jackets, regardless of the designer, had midlength waist-to-bottom, tight sleeves fitted to the body, natural shoulder shape, and solid color. Moreover, woven fabric was the most common material. Jackets with no collar were the most common for Armani, tailored collars for Dior and Jean-Paul Gaultier, and standing collars for Chanel and Valentino. For the closure method, Armani used hook-and-eye, Chanel, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Valentino used button closures, and Dior used snap closures the most. New design attempts by designers are bringing details and design elements together. In an era characterized by an abundance of designs and frequent replacement of each brand's creative designers, it is important to create and maintain a brand's unique design identity and philosophy that can meet consumers' elevated standards, which tend to be biased towards new and stimulating designs due to the development of the IT industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.7
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• pp.14-30
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to come up with a perspective that can enhance the understanding about the mechanism of fashion change. The starting idea of this study is that fashion has changed according to the ideal body image of the specific society or individual. The theoretical framework about the ideal body image has been studied by the literatures on the subject and it is verified by the analysis of John Galliano & Martin Margiela's fashion works. The results are as follows. First, Galliano exposes the woman's body as a sexual symbol which is articulated by men's eyes. Margiela describes the woman's body as human being which doesn't highlight any sexual characteristics. Second, Galliano emphasizes the body conscious silhouette whereas Margiela perceives the body as a whole, rather than looks into each body part. Third, Galliano uses lots of decoration to make display luxurious. Margiela restrains himself from using decorations and tries to create images by interaction between the clothes and bodies. Forth, Galliano expresses the eroticism by accentuating eyes and lips with strong color cosmetics. Margiela's fashion is not dazzling with makeup. He even covers the face with fabrics. Aesthetics in all societies is articulated by their hidden social power groups, and then it has influence on taking shape of the ideal body image and the mainstream of fashion. But the innate characters of individuals offer challenges to the fashion majority. The tension between the social power and individual character makes and changes the fashion.

• Journal of Veterinary Clinics
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.187-191
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• 2008

A 7-year-old, intact female Yorkshire terrier dog was presented for coughing, anorexia, chest pain and dyspnea. Right lateral thoracic radiograph demonstrated a large mass shape on the heart base with decreased cardiac silhouette and severe right deviation of the trachea with the heart shifted to the left thoracic wall was observed on the ventrodorsal thoracic projection. Echocardiographic examination revealed a large rounded mass compressing left atrium around the heart base without signs of pericardial effusion. On computed tomographic (CT) findings, sagittal CT images depicted the possibility of cranial vena caval invasion and heart base involvement of the mass associated with biatrial compression. Dorsal CT image revealed the right deviation of trachea due to the heart base mass and markedly shrunk lung space was detected on the transverse CT image. Because the dog suddenly had died during the recovery from anesthesia after finishing CT scan, necropsy was performed. On gross findings, a large and lobulated mass was located at the base of the heart. A poorly-demarcated, infiltrative, multilobulated tumor composed of polyhedral cells in solid cellular sheets was confirmed based on histopathologic examination. This dog was diagnosed as a chemodectoma. This case report describes the clinical findings, diagnostic consistency of thoracic radiography, echocardiography and CT, and histopathologic confirmation in a spontaneously occurring chemodectoma with a Yorkshire terrier dog.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.515-527
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• 2014

This study is intended to develop the creative and high value-added products as well as the development of diversity for jump suit for the future by analyzing the trend and feature shown in jump suit in the modern fashion. In the research methodology, the analysis was carried out over a total of 351 work pieces on jump suit among those presented in the collection of Paris, Milan, New York and London from 2006S/S to 2013F/W as well as literature review. The aesthetic features on suit jump design introduced in the modern fashion could be characterized as the following. First, both upper and lower garments are composed with a simple array of items and the stress was put on modernity feature through minimal expression technique. The feature of solid simplicity was also given with achromatic color or neutral monochrome. Second, the feminity image was emphasized with adoption of such highlighting items as detailed add-ons, tops, camisoles and blouses that stress the organically curved streamline including silhouette, material itself, crease and drape that enable the direct and indirect exposition of human body and the expression of smooth curve in human body. Third, jump suit revealed the multipurpose feature as item available for the diverse wear such as working habiliment, sports wear, uniform, office wear and evening wear, depending on the terms and conditions. Fourth, the deconstructive characteristic appeared through integration with various items, destruction of formative structure, non-structural shape, and ambiguity in wearing method.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.169-183
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• 2004

This study attempts to understand women's underwear culture in the Later Chosun Dynasty, by investigating the kinds and constructions of them, which formed bulky and puffed silhouette of the lower half of the body. In the middle 17th century in Chosun, Confucianism settled down as fundamental idea of society, while whole country achieved considerable economic growth. As a result for upperclass women, female virtues was demanded more than any other period in Chosun. On the other hand, lower-class women including Kisaengs, had more freedom on their clothing behaviors. According to the literature on women's dress institutions and restrictions of the extravagance, the use of kinds of high-quality silk and false hair was criticized, compared to women's clothes in China. From this, one can see the luxury and affluence of women's clothes at that time, which also reflected in luxurious underclothes. Also, the movement of class, by economic development, led to changes in the costumes of middle-to-lower class women, relaxing restrictions on clothes. Underclothes included Bosomband(가슴띠; long sashes for bosom to wrap), Sokjucksam(속적삼), and Sokchogori(속저고리; Korean blouse, worn under the chogori) for upper garment, and Darisokkok(다리속곳; basic underwear like the panty), Soksokkot(속속곳; underwear paji to be wide of hem), Sokpaji(속바지;trouser front and back opening), Tansokkok(단속곳; large size underwear like Soksokkot), Noronpaji(너른바지; paji like the skirt or paji bulky than tansokkot,), Mujigi무지기; tiered skirt for underwear), and Daeshumchi'ma(대슘치마; Korean underskirt, shape hem as a pad into form) for lower clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.6
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• pp.47-64
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• 2014

A variety of traditional costumes have been developed in Asia due to different natural and cultural environments and they are still worn by people in many areas. Traditional costumes in Asia have been formed under the influence of various ideologies, as well as technology and social structure. Three Asian religions(Buddhism, Hinduism and Islam), which have undeniably strong influence on traditional Asian cultures, have great effects on the styles of traditional costume in each region of Asia. The purpose of this study is to compare the characteristics and aesthetic values of traditional Asian costumes. To do this, the author used images of traditional costumes, which were taken in person by the author, in each region of Asia as reference. Unlike the traditional costumes in the West, which expose the body shape, traditional Asian costumes have nonstructural features in construction, form and wearing rules. They are also decorated with religious symbols and other ornaments, which is different from functional and non-decorative modern clothes. Each traditional Asian costume has unique characteristics. The costume under the influence of Buddhism shows the beauty of concealment that features trans-spatiality and abundant silhouette. On the other hand, the Hindu costume shows the beauty of symbolization represented by very colorful and complex ornaments, while costume in the Islam regions shows the beauty of restraint with clothes that wrap up the body in accordance with its strict religious discipline. Asian religions also represent philosophy, culture as well as an ethnic group. They have influenced entire Asian cultures including the arts, aesthetics and social structure and decided the style of costumes.