• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.146-149
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• 2000

This study has been investigated the comparison of the seam strength of hand sewing with machine sewing using two kinds of sewing thread. On machine sewing, thread is used for sale, on hand sewing, thread is used for every fabric weft yarn. Breaking strength, efficiency and breaking mode of seams were examined under various sewing conditions using three kinds of fabric and three kinds of stitch type. The results obtained are as follows: The seam strength is not affected by sewing mechanism, but affected by a breaking mode : The type of slipped mode has a higher seam strength of hand sewing than that of machine sewing. When fabrics and threads were broken by a higher seam strength of machine sewing than that of hand sewing. Fabrics having low density using plain seam slipped more easily, so seam strength was greatly lesser. Fabrics having higher density had higher to seam strength. We should choose appropriate seams based on production, economy and aesthetics.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Precision Engineering Conference
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• 1994.10a
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• pp.288-297
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• 1994

The sewing machine is one of the oldest machine that has ever used, which is related with clothes' life. Modern sewing machines are divided into three groups by the sititch character, which are the lock stitch sewing machine group, the over lock sewing machine group and the specical sewing machine group. The lock stitch sewing machine have being used more than any others, which is also good model to study. This work is part of the improvement of an industrial lock stitch(ILS) sewing machine's design. The research objectives are the kinematic analysis and evaluations of stitch performance. The feed dog and the needle extreme's motion, which are important two part's motion in the sewing machine, are characterized by the stitch process and the needle trace. The needle trace is formulated as the stitch spacing, the stitch spacing's ratio(the static characteristic), and the stitch's phase difference(the dynamic characteristic). The tested ILS sewing machine is evaluated as a good static characteristic and a bad dynamic characteristic. Namely, a stitch spacing's ratio is 0.01~0.063(mm/mm) and a stitch's phase difference ratio is 0.06~0.13(mm/mm).

• Journal of Industrial Technology
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• v.19
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• pp.179-187
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• 1999

The computer pattern sewing machine is an automatic sewing machine that is controlled by an input pattern. Even a novice can run this machine for various tasks fast and reliably such as sewing a button, a belt ring and an airbag, etc. The pattern processing software, which is the main software of this machine, is for editing and modifying pattern data by online teaching or off-line editing, setting up parameters, and calculate a moving distance of working area on the x-y axes. In this paper we propose an algorithm to generate pattern data for sewing by simplifying image data. The pattern data are composed of outline data like dot, line, circle, arc, curve, etc. We need converting this data into sewing data which involve sewing parameter, moving distance of working are an the x-y axes, thread, spindle speed.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Precision Engineering
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• v.15 no.12
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• pp.48-54
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• 1998

In sewing, fabrics is fed by an elliptic motion of the feed dog. The feeding control mechanism controls an elliptic motion of the feed dog, finally, controls stitch spacings and feeding directions of fabrics. This study discusses the feeding control mechanism of an industrial lock stitch sewing machine, which is a good example to study a machine kinematics. This study makes mathematical expressions of machine's motion in the feeding control mechanism. Thus, the motions of this mechanism are characterized, which will be used for kinematic analysis of the feed dog later. Also, the above mathematical expressions may be a basis for the new design of the feeding control mechanism and may be applied to development of the similar feeding control mechanism of other type sewing machine.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.7
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• pp.88-102
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• 2010

The research examines the characteristics of the sewing methods used for women's Jeogori in modern Korea. The results are following. In the 1920s sewing of shoulder parts was started, and in the 1930s sewing by hand had reduced by dissemination of sewing-machine, and in the 1940s the Som-jeogori declined by the matter of economic and sanitary issues. In the 1950s four-fold sewing emerged, and during the 1960s the gause-lined triple-layered Jeogori was in fashion, and in the 1970s the Ggaeggi-jeogori and much elaborated Jeogori became in vogue. The characteristics of the sewing methods are changed by following factors. First, the dissemination of sewing-machine in the 1930's enabled fast and precise sewing of Jeogori which reduced the rate of clothes mending and the production period. Second, by development of washing method, the dry cleaning became common, resulting cleaner washing and better preservation. Third, introduction of western clothes gave rise to modernized Han-bok which was changed into practical and simple one. Fourth, by the introduction of synthetic textile and industry development, Jeogori with no armhole line or right Seop line was made using wide selection of textiles. Fifth, in 1945~60s, women learned' good wife and wise mother' education and the use of sewing machine in school. The clothing lifestyle affected the sewing method's change, for example, clothes sewed strongly by sewing machine not to take clothes apart, and attaching button instead of Go-reum to save clothes.

• Journal of Industrial Technology
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• v.20 no.B
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• pp.189-194
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• 2000

In this paper, we present a BLDC Motor control for needle positioning and velocity control in the industrial sewing machine. In the industrial sewing machine, the fast acceleration control is needed, especially for a person who has a skill in operation of sewing machine for more products. And it is also needed to have a less noise and vibration. But the system which is made in a low price has no feedback system for a current control. Therefore we propose the method of velocity pattern that has an acceleration of velocity and Anti-windup algorithm. By the experiment, we confirmed that these manner have a good performance for low noise, low vibration and fast acceleration in the industrial sewing machine.

• 제어로봇시스템학회:학술대회논문집
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• 1990.10a
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• pp.281-285
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• 1990

Our N.C. sewing machine is a device that acts sewing automatically in reference to N.C. data made by data input device. Our N.C. sewing mechine is composed of induction motor that has electric clutch and brake, step motor that drives x-y table. Sewing area of our machine is 170 mm * 100 mm, maximum sewing speed is about 2000 spm, maximum stitch length 6.2 mm. In actual sewing, synchronization between motion of needle up-down and motion of x-y table is a critical factor. In this paper, technology about synchronization will be profoundly discussed.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.19-32
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• 2014

The sewing machine was the most widely-advertised item in mid-Victorian English periodicals. However, no historians have so far analyzed how English advertisers created the link between the domestic sewing machine and middle-class women, or what impact they may have had on gender relations. This paper treats sewing machines as a medium to enhance our view of gender and social history, consumer culture as well as material culture studies. Studying the advertisements of sewing machines reveals the traditional values and modern consumer culture of mid-nineteenth England, and also offers a sense for how advertisers expected people to react. Sewing machines could not only offer women aspiration and authority, but could also function as a timesaver through which a woman could attain a truly modern lifestyle. Buying a sewing machine for their wives symbolized their status as a breadwinner and a caring husband, as well as serving as an appreciation of their wives' domesticity. Sewing machines also provoked anxiety for both sexes because some believed that women would lose their morality and gender identity, whereas others believed that if relieved of domestic drudgery women would have time to educate themselves, which threatened to men and the gender hierarchy.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Precision Engineering
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• v.15 no.12
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• pp.37-47
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• 1998

This study discusses the feed dog feeding mechanism of an industrial lock stitch sewing machine, which is a good example to study a machine kinematics. The feed dog feeding mechanism makes the fabrics directly be fed by an elliptic motion of the feed dog that is moved by a rotation of the top shaft and controlled by the feeding control mechanism. This study makes mathematical expressions of machine's motion in the feed dog feeding mechanism. Thus, the motions of this mechanism are characterized, namely how an elliptic motion of the feed dog is affected by the feeding control mechanism. Therefore, the above mathematical expressions may be a basis for the new design of the feed dog feeding mechanism and may be adapted to analysis. Development of the similar feed dog feeding mechanism can be applied to other type sewing machine.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.7
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• pp.139-146
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• 2003

This study was aimed at analyzing a characteristics of the sewing machines and analyzing the effective sewing time in the garment manufacture process, therefore to obtain the basic data concerned with the sewing. operation standardization. The two methods were experimented. First, two garment factories established in Seoul and Geonggi province were randomly selected for the analyzing the sewing speed of the sewing operator for the optimized sewing speed using the equipment of Digital Tachometer HT4100. Second, five garment factories established in Seoul and Geonggi province were randomly selected to analyze the required time data to reach the fixed sewing speed using the lock stitch sewing machine which was used in the sewing factories. The results are divided into 3 categories as follows; 1) Survey results for the optimized sewing speed : The sewing operations of 10~20 cm range were most frequently selected in seam constructions in Korean sewing factories, and the sewing speed of 2,500 R.P.M was most used; 2) Required time to reach the fixed sewing speed using the lock stitch sewing machine : The mean of required time to the fixed sewing speed of 2.500 R.P.M was 3.5 second, and the mean of the real-sewing length during the 3.5 second was 43.8 cm ; 3) Analysis of the optimized sewing speed calculated using these results : The optimized sewing speed for the sewing manufacturers of the upward of 43.8 cm was 2,500 R.P.M. and for the sewing manufacturers of the below of 42.2 cm, the optimized sewing speed was 2.450 R.P.M.