• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.4
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• pp.1-13
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to examine the types of and figurative characteristics of in women's embroidered handicrafts of Korea. It also aims to revive Korean traditional beauty, to examine the applicability of Korean traditional design that has both modern beauty and practicality, and to develop Korean women's embroidered handicrafts. The types of women's embroidered of Korea include Jumoni (pouches), Bojagi (wrapping cloths), and other accessories made by sewing. Jumoni consisting of 55.51% of them was the most frequently used handicraft followed by Bojagi (8.66%), and other accessories (35.83%). In terms of the patterns used, animal pattern and plant pattern were used the most frequently. In addition, complex patterns using two or three patterns together(70.49) were more frequent than singular patterns (29.53%). Pictorial type of pattern arrangement (58.24%) was used the most frequently and dense type (39.76%) and sparse type (2.00%) were followed. In terms of the materials on which embroidery was used, Dahn (85.82%) was used the most frequently followed by wool (5.67%), cotton (4.26%), silk (3.55%), and Sa (0.70%). Various techniques of stitches were used such as outline stitch (40.56%), satin and running stitch (29.32%), French nut stitch (28.11%), long and short stitch (21.28%), double leaf stitch (20.88%), and so on. Among them, satin stitch (63.05%) was the most popular type of stitch techniques. Strings (23.56%), maedeup (Korean traditional knots, 8.62%), or tassels (9.77%) were also attached for the purpose of both practicality and of decoration. There were some cases that added cloissone or red-pepper shaped decorations.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2015

The concern for living a healthier and more active life has increased and the target market for the leisure-sportswear will broaden. This study suggests ideas and directions to develop horse-riding pants that consider fit satisfaction, demand performance and design requirements. A total of 203 riders were surveyed in Busan, Jeju, and Gwacheon horse racing tracks from November to December 2011 and from September to October 2012. Frequency analysis, ANOVA, t-test, and ${\chi}^2$-test were performed for the statistical analysis of the data using SPSS Win 21.0 program. The results of this study are as follows. The satisfaction of riding pants showed differences according to gender, riding career, BMI, age, and riding level. Females showed lower satisfaction of pant length than males. Riders with 1-4 years riding career showed more satisfaction of the front waist circumference. The group between 10 and 20 years more strongly preferred a rubber band waist than the group over 30 years. Those underweight preferred no pocket on the back. The intermediate-high riding level showed more fit satisfaction than those at the high level. Beginners put more importance on hip cushion, while riders over an intermediate level put more importance to sewing durability. Basic pants with beige and/or black full patch attached to the velcro hem were preferred by most riders. In conclusion, it is confirmed that design strategies in segmented riding pants market are necessary.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.472-477
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• 2011

In the tide of globalization, culture products play pivotal role in effectively introducing our tradition and culture to the world. This research is about developing culture products using our traditional lady's art craft work to attain the purpose of modern application through recreation of tradition along with modern technology. First, the types of traditional lady's art craft work include pouches, wrapping clothes and other accessories made by sewing except costumes. The materials used were cotton, silk, ramie, hemp and decorating techniques involved were embroidery, patchwork, quilting, knot. Second, the purpose of this study is developing culture products with traditional images which also satisfy modern sense. Therefore, items that could be used readily in daily life were selected. Such items include bags, mufflers, name card cases, brooches. In addition, the Korean traditional Patchwork images which have both western-style and modern sense were selected out of the many kinds of traditional lady's art craft works. Third, cultural products (bags, mufflers, name card cases, brooches) were created by DTP in silk with sacdong and free-styled division Korean traditional Patchwork images and quilting technique. The significance of this study lies in examining the possibility of developing modern culture products using traditional lady's art craft work. A way to further develop this study would be to shed new light on traditional crafts and local cultural resources and actively carry on the study of cultural product development to provide the foundation for developing cultural products with modern applications.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.453-459
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to provide the basic knowledge to determine the proper seam finish according to the design of sewing products. Four seam finishes(no seam finishes, over-edged seam finishes, turned-and-stitched seam finishes, and bias-bound seam finishes) were constructed with seams in warp, weft and bias directions of the fabric. Using a drape measurement system involving two 18cm diameter supporting disks and a digital camera, the images of draped specimens were captured and processed. Drape behavior was evaluated in terms of drape coefficient, node number, and drape profile. Drape coefficients of the fabrics increased with seam formation and varied by the seam finishes, however no significant differences in drape coefficients by the seam finishes were observed on the heavier fabric. Node numbers of heavier fabric were more deeply affected by the seam finishes than those of lighter fabric. The specimens with turned-and-stitched seam finishes and bias-bound seam finishes showed significantly smaller node numbers compared to the specimens with no seam finishes and over-edged seam finishes on heavier fabric. The length of the seamed part showed positive correlation with the weight of the specimens and negative correlation with the number of nodes in each seam direction. The maximum length of all draped specimens was found in the same direction as the seam direction. In the case of the lighter fabric, the seam and the seam finish had a great influence on the shape of the draped profile.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.347-353
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• 2014

The purpose of this research was to present the possibility of an alternative production base for clothing business of South Korea through the analysis about textile/clothing industry production activities in the Gaeseong industrial complex. It is necessary for the Gaeseong industrial complex to cope with the issue about FTA and country of origin, manpower supply and demand, paying wages and labor productivity, the exclusive industrial complex of clothing. The Country of Origin on imports and exports tells the country of manufacture or production, where the product comes from. Rules of Origin are the special regulations to determine the country of origin of a product and exist in the forms of international law, legislation, precedent and administrative decisions. But the economy in the North and the Gaeseong industrial complex is a comparative advantage combined with elements of North-South interdependence as a South-North economic cooperation business and can contribute significantly to the stabilization of the North-South relations. Among the models using criteria of the determination of origin, it has directly provided the models of general regulation for offshore products, of limited offshore products. These models are to help Korean exporters in understanding and utilizing the Rules of Origin for their manufacturing. In addition, the development of the Gaeseong industrial complex will contribute to establish peace on the Korean peninsula as well as in Northeast Asia. Also economic cooperation between South and North Koreas is essential for peace and prosperity of the Korean people.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.294-301
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• 2013

Sustainable fashion & textile is more than eco fashion & textile with the concepts for the next generation's happiness, prosumer value, and community responsibility. This study considers methods to enhance fashion and textile industry sustainability in accordance to clothing types (material, product life and washing properties) and to investigate company strategies. Company strategies are of redesign with stock, volunteering & measuring trash amount, participation by evaluation stores, clerk environment education, hiring QC specialist and reinforcing partnerships. For the case of daily innerwear, throwing away and recycling is more efficient for the environment than laundering in the consumer use stage; subsequently, we recommend the use of polypropylene fiber (a cheap and an eco-friendly material) for this item that can be recycled and reformed after use. For the case of single layer clothing (such as sportswear, blouse or pants) we recommend the use of thermoplastic materials with welding or fuse assembling technology instead of a sewing method of seams as well as the recycle design that is simply melted and reformed into new clothing without an after use dissembling process. Secondhand use or resale is suitable for denim/jean items if the clothing has a storytelling or private history tag. Lastly, module-type jacket or coat shows the variety of styles with one clothing worn w/o collar or sleeve details and changed into vest/coat; in addition, it is possible to add or partly tear off some jacket/coat fibers of the felt material to reform it into a new design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.385-399
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• 2017

This study will broaden the application of doll costume product with historical characteristics and the image of unlined cheollik in the $17^{th}$ century period of transition during the Joseon Dynasty. Historical design sources were extracted from old documents and precedent studies. Unlined cheollik of Shin Gyeong-yu, meritorious retainer, were selected as main reference-relic because of various fabric, preserved conditions and definite shape. 'Baby doll' was selected as main model because of consumer preferences and awareness. Design sources from unlined cheollik in the early $17^{th}$ century were about a 1:2 ratio of upper and under parts, removable separated doori-somae, knife-shaped collar (outside), projected square collar (inside), long pleats line, side slit, traditional flat fell seam sewing. Trapezoidal side line, round waistline, and thin fabric were applied in designs because of toddler-body of doll model. Three designs were produced in step 1: Cheollik A focusing on the historical remake (traditional type), Cheollik B with belt and side slit (crossover type), and Cheollik C with back- opening (modern type). In step 2, interview with fashion major student was conducted to increase the utility of designs. As a result, modern trend sources (frill, velcro, round armhole line, slope of sleeves, and floral pattern) were reflected in Cheollik B, C. Finally, three doll cheollik and cheollik-styled doll apron sample were produced. Various versions must be suggested in the study of doll costume products with traditional sources that balance historical characteristics and practicality to improve customer satisfaction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.292-305
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• 2013

This study reported present state of clothing technical designers' work duties and working conditions, so as to suggest effective ways to develop professional training methods for them. Technical designers working for vendors and agents were surveyed as they represent the majority of technical designers in Korean clothing industries. Survey participants were 62 technical designers working for 6 clothing vendors and 2 clothing agents, and the survey closely inspected their work qualifications, duties and responsibilities, working conditions and training conditions. Survey was conducted from June $27^{th}$ to July $17^{th}$, 2012. The questionnaire examined frequency analysis and multiple response analysis using SPSS 19.0 Windows after investigating documents and work fields through personal experiences and interviews from technical designers for data collection and analysis. A chi-square test analyzed the preferred type of fitting for technical designers of vendors and agents. The results showed that 32.3% of those surveyed have more than 7 years of work experience and the highest level of education is predominantly a bachelor's degree (57 people, 91.9%). Among the work responsibilities, respondents did sample measuring more than four times a day. Also, the results showed that technical designers needed to qualify: first 'Fitting Technic', second 'Pattern Correction Capability', and third 'English Skills to Communicate with Buyers'; subsequently, education on several technics (such as measuring, grading, and fitting) were required for the job. Current technical designers answered that they need more various work-related education. However, the analyzed results showed that pre work-related training was insufficient. The data shows that technical designers require re-education in 'Pattern Correction Method' (61.3%) and 'Sewing Education' (64.5%).

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.167-179
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• 2005

Skirts hold an important position in dress culture among various dress forms, being worn by more than half of mu. In this study, Chima is defined as garment for lower part of the body without crotch sewing, contrasting with trousers. The authors classify and compare the formation of the skirts of minority races in Yunnan area, based on Korean Chima, understanding the forms of skirts and examining the composition, color, pattern and material. For the study, the authors investigated 57 pieces of skirts among 341 pieces of minority races dresses from Yunn Nationality Museum collection exhibited at Korea Folk Village in May 2003, and referred to customs materials and photos in various literatures. Skirts in Yunnan area are divided into 6 areas, that is, seamless one-piece skirt area, wrapskirt area and mixed type skirt area. Skirt formation factors from the effect of environment such as climate, lifestyle and means of production were studied, and characteristics, differences and similarities were reviewed. Figure of skirts are studied by compostion, color, material, and technique. By composition, they can be classified based on the similarity to Hanbok (traditional Korean dress). By color, worshipped color and preferred color vary by races and by area. Materials vary in kinds and thickness by area with various climate. By technique, national characteristic patterns are inherited through national traditional dyeing and embroidery. It is not easy to conclude based on single item of skirt, but we suggest that national dresses have been settled through the mutual supplements between the effect of social and cultural exchange such as historical inheritance, geological environment, religion and production activity and the various forms of skirts from changes in shape, color, material and wearing form of dresses.

• Korean journal of food and cookery science
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.367-374
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the microbiological quality of, and to assure the hygienic safety of, the kimbap production in the university foodservice facilities in accordance with the HACCP (Hazard Analysis Critical Control Point) Program. The time-temperature relationship and the microbiological quality (specifically, total plate count and coliform bacteria count) were assessed to find the critical control point (CCP) during each of the production phases. The average of the daily longest duration time of the kimbap at the facilities was 23.4 hours in summer, while 29.6 hours in winter. In the purchasing phase of the raw materials, the microbiological quality of laver, fish paste, carrot and cucumber in summer was not at an acceptable level according to the standard set by the Natick research center, especially the number of TPC and the coliform level of laver was higher than the threshold level. In the refrigerator storage phase, the temperature of the carrot was 7.4$^{\circ}C$. This temperature is far exceeding the standard so that the microbiological counts was increased by the 2 log cycle during the average storage time of 17 hours or more. In the preparation phase, the temperature of the blanching is too low compared to the standard. In the holding phase before serving, its time-temperature relationship was out of the FDA food code standard both in winter and summer. In the sewing phase, the number of microbiological count was higher than the threshold level in summer while that in winter was up to standard. According to the Harrigan and McCance standard, the number of microbiological count of the utensils was higher than the threshold level in summer while that in winter was up to standard.