• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.40
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• pp.121-135
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• 1998

The purpose of this thesis is to study the social and cultural background and characteristic of neo-classicism which appered in the modern fashion of the pluralistic society of the latter half of 20th century to understand that the product of societh such as fashion mode reflects the situation of society and culture. For this purpose, documentary studies about the concept and background of neo-classicism, were preceded, and analyzed the occurrence background and characteristic of neo-classicism of the modern fashion after the 1980's, which showed up in post-modernism fashion. The characteristics of neo-classicism expressed in modern fashion is as follows; First, they are expressed in modern fashion in forms of simplicity by means of minimizing process of sewing or ornamenting and deletion of dart. Second, retro-style in terms of concerning of the past, is featured in various styles of Greco-roman drapery and expresed in forms of mixing clothing elements of modern and classic in modern times. Third, the trend of ecology in terms of interest of the nature and the thought that the spiritual world is more important than the material world. It is expressed by using natural elements adn natural materials, which wanted to get the nature and human into one and search for the losed nature of modern men. Fourth, the pursuit of the beauty of the human body, is expressed in forms of body-prioity style through using see-through or elastic materials, which is knit, lycra, spandex, etc. In conclusion, we can recognize that the social product reflects social and cultural situation. And the characteristic of neo-classicism has the meaning of harmonizing the human and nature and the returing the humanity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.7
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• pp.1038-1049
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• 2009

A hat is an important fashion accessory item for a total fashion coordination and the number of millineries is increasing in the current accessory market. This research provides basic information about the millinery in relation to consumer consumption behavior, preference, and satisfaction with hat products. A survey was conducted among 395 individuals age 20 and over who were quota sampled according to age and gender to investigate the differences between genders and different age groups. The collected data were statistically treated with the SPSS 12.0 program in terms of frequency, percentage, mean, standard error, cross tabulation, t-test, one-way ANOVA, and a Duncan-test. The results are as follows: 1. Respondents wear hats for ornamental purposes regardless of the season. They discard hats when they become out of style 2 to 3 years after the purchase. 2. In general, consumers prefer the baseball cap design among various hat product categories. Achromatic colors were the favorite color tone and the preferred material was woven cloth. 3. Consumers were most satisfied with colors and most dissatisfied with deformation after laundering. 4. There was a significant difference in preferences among the different age groups. Younger consumers were more concerned about individual image and style. Older consumers considered hats as a functional means such as protecting themselves from the sun. 5. There was a significant gender difference. Compared to males, female consumers were more concerned about the quality of sewing and colorfastness than male consumers.

• Archives of design research
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.401-410
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• 2003

With increase of internet users, usage frequency of e-mail card is growing up. In addition to advantage of delivering message in real-time, e-mail card contains words, animation and sound. So users can enjoy it's multiple characters. For these reasons, there is a shift in preference from traditional card to e-mail card especially in young age. In character portal sites sewing users with e-mail card it is regarded as useful media for character promotion. After bizarre rabbit 'Mashimaro' wins a great success as Flash animation, Flash card has been treated as an important media in character business. As the study on the aesthetic motive in Flash card, this thesis analyzes what is the meaning existing in characteristic expression of Flash card and proposes that the meaning is related to tension reduction from the viewpoint of entropy principle. We can summarize that contents of animation are based on striving toward simplicity and expressions of animation are based on catabolism. Both lead to pleasure of tension reduction. We can draw conclusion that pleasure of tension reduction becomes one of major factors of the aesthetic motive felt in Flash card.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.933-945
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• 1995

The purpose of this study is to examine the current foreign languages of clothing terms which have been misused, clarify the meanings and suggest the unified teams. The results are as follows. First, English and Japanese are great parts of the origins of the clothing terms in foreign languges which have been misused. And next, there were French, German, Portuguese and Spanish via English and Japanese. Especially, the misused foreign languages in styles, materials of clothing are also via English and Japanese. The compound words in Japanese are many parts of them and misused Japanese, Japanese via English, French, German, Dutch, Spanish, Poltuguese, and some terms can not be found their origin. (ex: 색채, 컬러, 카라) In case of the colors of clothing, the terms have the English marking rules and the Japanese pronounciation. And some unified terms are Korean, English, and Chinese letters. (ex: 빨강, 레드, 적색) There are lots of the misused foreign lagusges in sewing terms. On each case, the corresponding words in English and Japanese were suggested to understand easily. The most of the unified words were suggested in Korean. (ex: 하찌사시 $\rightarrow$ 하자시; padding stitch, 팔자뜨기) In clothing construction, there were lots of the misused terms in Japanese and the corrupted terms of Japanese. And so the explains and the unified terms were suggested. (ex: 구세토리, 몸새맞춤, 나찌, 가위집 (내기)) Finally, the origins of terms in western history of costume were clarified and analyzed the meanings : $\circled1$robe, $\circled2$ jacket, gipon, pourpoint, doublet, justaucorps, habit, flock(coat), cutaway, swallow tail coat, 배광, lounge suit, $\circled3$ coat Robe is the gown style garment which was used by men and women from the Middle ages, the jacket is a short, coat-like garment and coat is a long outer garment. Each origin is different, however the 'jacket' and the 'coat' were used confusely in the middle of 19th century.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.37-44
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• 2009

As the modern society has become highly industrialized and functionalized, the entry of women in public affairs has become brisk and extensive, and the studies of jackets which can satisfy the functions and designs for various activities have become important. Especially in the tailored collar which is the typical collar for female jackets, the studies such as scientific original form design, and design evaluation through analyzing functionality and sensitivity and others must be systematically carried out. In this study, therefore, the objective was placed in examining the actual state of the production of the tailored collar in the field of production first, and inquiring the general theories on the constituent elements of tailored-collar and production methods by analyzing it and comparing it with the educational tailored-collar production methods. First, in regard to the relation between the collar and the length of the backside neck of the bodice, in most cases, they were employing the method to enlarge the length of the backside neck of the bodice by shortening the length of the neck-base girth. That is, they were processing in order that the self collar band inside of the roll line and the fall of the collar can make a soft curved line. Second, when producing tailored-collar patterns, it is desirable to very the inclination according to the breath of the collar or thickness of the fabric because the stability of the inclination of the collar differs depending on the condition the collar is set, the girth of the collar edge. the broader the breath of the collar becomes, the thicker the fabric becomes, and the more the cloth is against the cold, it is necessary to make the inclination larger. Third, in the size relation between the upper collar and under collar, when sewing collars, it becomes thick and stabilized as it goes from the part in which extra pieces were put to the part in which extra pieces are not put. So you must make the upper collar larger by putting in extra pieces. The amount to be put in differs depending on characteristics of the materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.50-66
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• 2010

This Shanghai region study is a sample survey of female college students in their early 20s. This study collected and analyzed the information of shapes through a direct contact survey to understand the breast figures and the measurements of bodies to provide basic information to improve brassiere production for adult females in China. Data was analyzed through a SAS 9.0. The characteristic of the final brassiere pattern that had been corrected and complemented from the results of the $l^{st},\;2^{nd},\;3^{rd}$, and $4^{th}$ fitting tests is defined as a brassiere inserted with a round wire that has the 3/4cup to wrap the bust area by about 3/4. It consists of an upper and lower nonwoven fabric cup that has a flat-shaped wing of a circular dart. The drawing method of the pattern of this brassiere is applied with the conditions to cover the body naturally under the diverse and organic relations of the material factor of stretch material and wire, functional factor, and sewing factor. The final pattern is created as a bigger angle of wing pattern and a short inner side diameter because there are more Chinese women with a back of bending figure compared to Korean women.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.112-125
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• 2010

A Holter monitor is used for ECG monitoring of ambulatory daily life in hospital. However, the use of this apparatus causes skin allergies and discomfort in patients because of the attachment gel and tapes used to attach disposable electrodes to the skin. In this study, the development of tight-fitting clothing connected to a portable Holter monitor was proposed. In addition, the use of conductive fabrics as electrodes was proposed; this will enable the use of garments in u-health care for measuring ECG signals. The male subjects were university students in the ages of 20 to 24. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental garments were rated using seven Likert scales. A Likert type scale was used for the evaluation and a 7 point score indicates that it provided the best fit as a tight-fitting upper clothing. Clothing pressure was measured using an air-pack-type pressure sensor (model AMI 3037-2) at 4 locations (the conductive fabric electrode) As results, a male basic sloper for upper clothing was developed and that pattern was manipulated to the tight fit pattern by considering the reduction rate of the percentage stretch in the fabric. The developed tight-fitting garment was superior in terms of subjective sensation and 6t. The mean pressure of the garment with reduction rates of 40% in width and of 50% in length was 8.45gf/$cm^2$. A conductive fabric electrode was developed by considering the sewing method and the developed electrode was detected well. The ECG data were recorded for 13 hr 19 min 44 sec and the artifacts in the ECG signals were recorded for 9 hr 3 min 46 sec (total time: 22 hr 23 min 23 sec). The artifacts data were obtained during heavy activities.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.69-85
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• 1995

Recently Southeast Asia has developed, so the world concerns about these regions. Ethnic fashion in 90's is mostly the influence of these regions' folk costume. The purpose of this study is to review aes-thetic aspects of folk costume in Southeast Asia, to investigate the influence on modern fashion and to predict the possibility of Asia fashion's adaption to modern fashion and to help the cre-ation of fashion design. First of all, the folk costume in Southeast Asia is classified drapery style and sarong style. These non-west clothing appeal to modern fashion as the oriental tranditional beauty. Ethnic fashion appeared in 1990's is attempted to be more complex and variable than the pre-vious ethnic fashion. Asian ethnic fashion influenced from folk costume of Southeast Asia is-wholly or party-the style, color, motif from each country's folk costume. And each country's unique art became the motive of the creative design. Specially, Aosai and Quan in Vietnam and sar-ong style in most Southeast Asia are important motives expressing minority's nostalgia. These are expressed in variable ways. Which are harmonized with latest other fashion trend : retro style and naturalism, Layered look, hippie look, unfinished sewing technic and manual technic are used one image matched the folk costume of Southeast Asia which is natural. Another characterstic in Asian ethnic fashion is a multi-ethnic. This harmonizes the different culture between the Orient and the West beyond the age and culture, and combines each folk costume. It is involved that the fashion can develop indivisual country's costumes mixed with her own unique characteristics and the fashion break the traditional concept and disagree with a certain coordinate rule and it indicates that the fashion shows various style, mood, volume and room as well as space. Like this recent Asian ethnic fashion comes to us in a strange favor. The people who are tired of traditional western civilization's outcome will receive a great tastes from the Asian ethnic fashion.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.4
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• pp.21-45
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• 2004

The rapid development of science technology during the 20th century has greatly lowered the hours for labour, thus giving members of society extra time for leisure. With the increasement of leisure activities, sports casual wear has become one of the foremost leading items in the fashion industry, and among such sports casual, down wear has become the F/W season's most popular item. Because it generates high profits, many recognize it as a very important factor in lady's wear. Since the 1990's, down wear was widely applied to various sections of lady's, men's, and children's wear, and it has ceased to be limited to sports casual only. The purpose of this study was to fully understand the characteristics of down, and to develop crossover garments design desired not only in the F/W season but also the S/S season. It has been taken into consideration that many restrictions in sewing technique and material selection in manufacturing down as a fashion product exist when choosing a means of manufacture. That was why this study focused on the history and characteristics of down while analysing the works of domestic and foreign designers to concretely applicate them in fashion products. This study has divided the resulting down wear products according to consumer preference： vest, jacket, coat, one-piece, and skirt to applicate design manufacture of lady's wear in general, while designing and making artistically expressed down wear. There were 48 works developed as a result of this study, of which 41 were ready-to-wear, and the remaining 7 works were creative art wear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.2
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• pp.40-54
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• 2012

The significance of this research lies in the analysis of that appears in the comedy . It also aims to propose conceptual and analytical costume designs that emphasize the formal aspects of play by reflecting on the comical elements simultaneously. , the subject of this study, was played on November 12, 2009 at the Small Theater (Dalohreum Theater) in the National Theater as a celebration of the 40th anniversary of Suwon Women's College. The costumes were designed by this researcher and were produced in collaboration with the Creative Performances Research Institute (Suwon Women's College). The comic elements were categorized into deconstruction, deviation and unexpectedness according to previous studies on the humorous nature of comedy, and their aesthetic meanings were applied to the costumes. The designs that reflect the comic elements are as follows. The costume design reflecting deconstruction is a way that disassembles and recombines constructive aspects of clothing. It consists of seam margins outside or just left disassembled without sewing, dismantling the boundary of outerwear and underwear. The costume design reflects deviation because reformed shapes of collars, the variation of length and closure of skirts deviate from the traditional style. These are designed by distorting traditional designs with deviation and transcend of tradition. The costume designs the reflect unexpectedness integrates both tradition and the contemporary, and use materials of diversity and heterogeneity, and these are composed of external formats the result from incongruity. Because comic elements are metaphysical concepts that carry meanings that are difficult to define according to the country and period, it is required to analyze, organize and utilize their characteristics and meanings of each period. Since this study analyzed the comical elements of a play and applied them to costume design, it is hoped that a follow-up study of analytical costume design is be done, and that more diverse and more creative costume designs are in the next generation.