• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.451-457
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• 2006

Hole 1124 of ODP Leg 181 was located in the Rekohu sediment drift off eastern New Zealand in the southwest Pacific Ocean. Mean gain sizes of sortable silt were measured in two drilled cores (1124A and l124B). Chronostratigraphy of core 1124 was correlated with the well-dated nearby core S931, resulting that the age of core 1124 covers the late Pleistocene spanning about MIS (Marine Isotope Stage) 5. Mean grain size of sortable silt seemed to be relatively large during the glacial period, whereas that of the interglacial period was smaller, although several tephra layers contain some coarse-grained pyroclatic particles. The variation in mean grain size of sortable silt in Rekohu sediment drift during the late Pleistocene indicates that the intensity of Deep Western Boundary Current (DWBC) might have been enhanced during the glacial period as a result of increased production of Antarctic Bottom Water (AABW).

• Journal of Environmental Science International
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.589-594
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• 1997

A total of 24 surface sediment samples collected from coastal region and fronting of sea cliff on Cape Cod In southeastern Massachusetts, were analyzed to Investigate the sediment transport mechanism. According to the result of grainsize analysis, the overall trend of g.k size decreases from the north(Wood End Beach) to the south(Nauset Light Beachy. The coarser materials tend to be deposited at the foreshore than at the backshore. Especially gavel content(%) Is very high in northern beaches. The lavel fraction tended to concentrate at the toe of the beach. In addition to gravel. the beach and nearshore bar also tended to be deposite of very coarse sand and the Inner fraction accumulate in the offshore bar, Grainsize analyses of sediment Indicates that the coarsest sands Including gravel accumulate In the beach and nearshore bar, the finer fraction winnowed out by wave action to be deposited In the offshore bar. The beach and nearshore bar sands and gavel are subsequently transported laterally by the wave-driven longshore drift, and finally they come to rest in the distal end of Provincetown Hook. The faller offshore sands are trnasported laterally to the south by net southward-directed longshore current.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.28-39
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• 2019

In the design process of counter measures against the beach erosion, information like the main sediment transport mode and yearly net amount of longshore and cross shore transport is of great engineering value. In this rationale, we numerically analyzed the yearly sediment budget of the Mang-Bang beach which is suffering from erosion problem. For the case of cross sediment transport, Bailard's model (1981) having its roots on the Bagnold's energy model (1963) is utilized. In doing so, longshore sediment transport rate is estimated based on the assumption that longshore transport rate is determined by the available wave energy influx toward the beach. Velocity moments required for the application of Bailard's model (1981) is deduced from numerical simulation of the nonlinear shoaling process over the Mang-Bang beach of the 71 wave conditions carefully chosen from the wave records. As a wave driver, we used the consistent frequency Boussinesq Eq. by Frelich and Guza (1984). Numerical results show that contrary to the Bailard's study (1981), Irribaren NO. has non negligible influence on the velocity moments. We also proceeds to numerically simulate the yearly sediment budget of Mang-Bang beach. Numerical results show that for ${\beta}=41.6^{\circ}$, the mean orientation of Mang-Bang beach, north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing over the south-eastwardly moving sediment, the yearly amount of which is simulated to reach its maxima at $125,000m^3/m$. And the null pint where north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is balanced by the south-eastwardly moving longshore sediment is located at ${\beta}=47^{\circ}$. For the case of cross shore sediment, the sediment is gradually moving toward the shore from the April to mid October, whereas these trends are reversed by sporadically occurring energetic wind waves at the end of October and March. We also complete the littoral drift rose of the Mang-Bang beach, which shows that even though the shore line is temporarily retreated, and as a result, the orientation of Mang-Bang beach is larger than the orientation of null pont, south-eastwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing. In a case that the orientation of Mang-Bang beach is smaller than the orientation of null pont, north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing. And these trend imply that the Mang-Bang beach is stable one, which has the self restoring capability once exposed to erosion.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.18-34
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• 2001

Statistical analysis oflong-tenn wave data resulted from HYPA(HYbrid PArametric wave model) for the eastern coast of Korea was performed. Subsequently a simple approach for predicting the global annual and seasonal littoral drifts has been derived to estimate littoral sediment budget.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 1983

The wave and hydrologic climate at a beach location are everchanging and coastal engineers have always been interested in the deformation of the natural beach caused by wave action over short or long interval of time. The drift of sand on a beach particulary manifests itself when blocked construction of seawalls, jetties, breakerwaters and groins etc.${\cdots}$ For this reason, the understanding and evaluation of littoral drift has been especially important to the coastal engineers. The resulting of the sand drift movement, such as the type of beach profile, width of beach, storage volume of the littoral sand over the profile are rapid everchange. We have studied the geological changes due to the littoral drift on a beach with field investigation and model tests in laboratory. But, it is impossible to make quantative correct analysis because of the factors are everchange and complicate. And then, most of study are incline to qualitative analysis. In this paper, authors studied mainly on the transition of beach profile and sediment storage on the profile using statistical field data as qualitative analytical method. The used theoretical beach transition model by Sonu and Beek have developed to obtain the change of HAEUNDAE beach backed with seawall. Results of this study indicate that the transition model are useful in the analysis of beach profile changement and the littoral drift movement on the beach. Qualitative analysises for HAEUNDAE beach are as follows. 1) Transition sequence of profile has 4 major transition for one cycle. 2) Storage sediment model of beach profile by Sonu and Beek well coincided with HAEUNDAE beach. 3) Seasonal cycle has ill-balanced process for the 5-yr. investigation.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2002.05a
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• pp.257-262
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• 2002

Numerical model introduced in this study combines wave refraction-diffraction, breaking, bottom friction, lateral mixing, and critical shear stress and three sub-models for simulating waves, currents, and bottom change were briefly discussed. Simulations of beach processes and harbor sedimentation were also described at the coast neighboring Bangpo Harbor, Anmyundo, Chungnam, where the area has suffered from accumulation of drifting sand in a small fishing harbor with a wide tidal range. We also made model test for the case of a narrow tidal range at Nakdong river's estuary area to understand the effect of water level variation on the littoral drift. Simulations are conducted in terms of incident wave direction and tidal level. Characteristics of wave transformation, nearshore current, sediment transport, and bottom change are shown and analyzed. We found from the simulation that the tidal level impact to the sediment transport is very important and we should apply the numerical model with different water level to analyze sediment transport mechanism correctly. Although the model study gave reasonable description of beach processes and harbor sedimentation mechanism, it is necessary to collect lots of field observation data, including waves, tides and bottom materials, etc. for better prediction.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.308-320
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• 2021

An integrated sediment management approach that includes the recovery of the amount of declined sediment supply is effective as a fundamental solution to coastal erosion. During planning, it is essential to analyze the transfer mechanism of the sediments generated from estuaries (the junction between a river and sea) to assess the amount and rate of sediment discharge (from the river to sea) supplied back to the coast. Although numerical models that interpret the tidal sand bar flushing process during flooding have been studied, thus far, there has been no study focusing on the formation and development processes of tidal sand bars. Therefore, this study aims to construct wave deformation, flow regime calculation, and topographic change analysis models to assess the amount of recovered sediment discharge and reproduce the tidal sand bar formation process through numerical analysis for integrated littoral drift management. The tidal sand bar formation process was simulated, and the wave energy and duration of action concepts were implemented to predict the long-term littoral movement. The river flux and wave conditions during winter when tidal sand bars dominantly develop were considered as the external force conditions required for calculation. The initial condition of the topographic data directly after the Maeupcheon tidal sand bar flushing during flooding was set as the initial topography. Consequently, the tidal sand bar formation and development due to nearshore currents dependent on the incident wave direction were reproduced. Approximately 66 h after the initial topography, a sand bar formation was observed at the Maengbang estuary.

• Journal of Wetlands Research
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.67-77
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• 2006

Sedimentological investigations on surface and suspended sediments were performed in Masan Bay of the South Sea in order to reveal recent changes in depositional environments concerning anthropogenic influence. Surface sediments had been classified as 3 sediment facies: mud, slightly gravelly mud, and gravelly mud. In general, mud facies with more than 60% of silt is predominant and slightly gravelly mud facies occurs at the watercourse of bay's central area. The silt-dominant mud faices appears to be predominant before and after dredging. Temperature and salinity changes during one tidal cycle for each season suggest that water columns were stratified without vertical mixing regardless of the season due to weak intensity of tide from the effect of geographical features. The effect of freshwater discharge from the land seems to be insignificant. The strongest current was observed during ebb tide in spring and autumn while observed during flood tide in summer and winter. Net sediment flux (fs) and net suspended sediment transport (Qs) for suspended sediment were determined by remaining drift developed here. Net suspended sediment transport loads were seaward with $62.02{\times}10^3kgm^{-1}$, $31.84{\times}10^3kgm^{-1}$ in spring and fall, respectively, and landward with $18.23{\times}10^3kgm^{-1}$, $3.22{\times}10^3kgm^{-1}$ in summer and winter, respectively.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2014.06a
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• pp.241-243
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• 2014

Recently, as the coastal erosion impacts greats to both social and economical aspects, each local government is trying to setup its countermeasures. However, it is necessary to survey the change of sediment movement characteristics and investigate the continuous environment change by long-term monitoring after building prevention constructions. In this study, predictions on wave deformation and sediment movement deduced through the numerical modeling are made, based on the ordinary and extraordinary wave through seasonal superiority wave direction, height, period and long-term wave characteristics on the eroded beach of central West sea.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.265-275
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• 2011

The Hamo and Hyeopjae beaches in the western part of Jeju Island were studied in terms of seasonal variations of surface sediment and beach profile. Seasonal drift direction of the beach sands also was investigated. The Hamo beach of $7.3^{\circ}-10.8^{\circ}$ steep is composed of medium sand containing volcanic clasts and shell fragments. The Hyeopjae beach of $2.8^{\circ}-6.5^{\circ}$ steep is composed of coarse shelly sand. Hamo beach deformation is probably caused by the jetties constructed in the western part of the beach. In the Hyeopjae beach, surface sands were drifted into the dune side by the northwestern stormy wind during winter season.