• Title/Summary/Keyword: Seam Line

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A Study on the Basic Pattern Drafting Method Development of Men's J$\breve{o}$-go-ri -Collar Construction (2)- (남자저고리 원형제도법 개발을 위한 연구(2) -깃구성을 중심으로-)

  • 정옥임
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.37 no.7
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    • pp.17-27
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    • 1999
  • According to the design method for constructing the Korean Men's Jo-go-ri(the traditional Korean jacket)collar, there are differences in form after its completion. In the construction design of the midsection of the gusset as in that of the basic pattern Jo-go-ri, not only was the positioning of the two sides of the collar not smooth, but also, when the collar strip(Dongjung) was attached, there would be an imbalance on one side or the other so that it was difficult to achieve symmetry. Therefore in this project, by applying the pattern design of the gusset midsection to that of the collar midsection, not only did attaching the collar(Kit) and the collar strip create a visual effect by equalizing the lengths of the two sides, but the construction was also easy. This method of construction introduces the three-dimensional aspect of the human form in its conic, spherical and cylindrical aspects, so that, through schematizing the scientific character of Korea's clothing, its appropriateness is verified. As a matter of fact, since there is no standardization of pattern whether for educational use or for mass-produced clothing, so that even the patterns used in computer-assisted design are executed according to the designer's personal skill, the reality is that after completion of construction the quality has not been uniform. For this schematization, inverse calculation of measurements pertaining to the calculation formula and of teaching materials has been referenced. In particular, the partial regulation of the calculation formula pertaining to the basic pattern construction, the method of making the collar midsection, and the construction method of the extreme and mean ratio adjustment, can be adjusted for all measurements, thereby providing the establishment of a design criterion and the possibility of the standardization of construction methods. The production method for the basic pattern design is as follows: 1) The conic angle for the Jo-go-ri's girth, length end neck width is fixed at 70(72) degree. 2) The radius of the cone is sleeve length. 3) The bust girth calculation formula is B/4 + 2.5 cm. 4) The armhole formula is B/4 + 2.5cm. 5) The neck width formula is B/10. 6) The ratio of the collar junction{width of collar(Kit) + width of collar strip(Dongjung) to the gusset length is 5:8. 7) The length of the side seam is a length intersecting the armhole line and the conic radius of sleeve length, that is an arc that exceeds the length of the Jo-go-ri's midsection.

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A Study About Topolgic Construction In Korean Clothes (한복에 나타난 위상기하학적 구성에 관한 연구)

  • 임영자
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.30
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    • pp.69-84
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    • 1996
  • The main current of ancient Korean thought is based on Yuk(易) : which solves the principle of creation of universe letter(文字) which is the principle of geometry and three elements thought of circle square . It's related to the creation principle of the universe and regarded as a sign that demons-trates shows the way to read the mathematical principle. The original form of Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) is represents the structure of hu-man body which reflects a small universe. So a good structure and meaning of the human body is well read in the formation of Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) and that is a good symbolization of the clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) as the space of small universe. The good formation of Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) could be shown by cutting out straight bending twisting and turning each straitly cutting piece is applied to its trans-tormation. Geametical formation with obvious sym-metric dividing of front-back left-right and top-bottom is well shown in Korean clothes by twisting Yuk(易) or m bius strips. So we can find out whole formation by representing only either 'front and back' or 'left and right' and also sa-pok(사폭) of man's trousers seop(섶) of jeo-go-ri(short jacket 저고리) kyut-ma-gi(곁마기) of Sam-hwai-jang jeo-go-ri (삼회장 저고리), mu(무) of jig-ryung(straight collar and long and wide sleeved robe, 直領) trouser wide and ga-rae-ba-dae(가래바대) of dan-cok-kok(woman's under trousers). The formation line of Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) is based on theprinciple of unlimited m bius strips by twisting of turning direction from universal principle and original basic form is not changd even by turning in-side out. Unity of the whole and part in Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) could be found in nonorientable thought(非始原思想) which represents the unity and dependence kil(길) of jeo-go-ri(short jacket, 저고리) and po(long and wide sleeved robe, 袍). Selva-gewise(식서방향) of sleeves and seam of out-side of kil(길) and outside of seop(섶) are directed to outside of seop(섶) inside of seop(섶) is to kil and direction of inseam of kheut-dong(끝동) and kyut-ma-gi(곁마기) is directed to sleeves. Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) is usually made by cutting fabric for several parts and sewing them and the way to make Korean clothes is deeply related to the theory of chon-pu-kyung jong-il and il-seok -sam-geuk. As the development of men's consciousness is pro-gressed from total separation to separation and superseparation. Sewing process of korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) can be make single dimension to double or triple dimension of korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) silhoutte bacause it can be include principle of topology as noneuclity.

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Microbial Desulfurization of a Bituminous Coal by Iron-Oxidizing Bacteria Thiobacillus ferooxidans (철산화 박테리아 Thiobacillus ferrooxidans에 의한 역청탄의 생물학적 탈황)

  • 류희욱
    • KSBB Journal
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    • v.11 no.2
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    • pp.238-245
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    • 1996
  • Microbial desulfurization characterlstics of a bituminous coal have been determined by using Thiobacillus ferrooxidans. The effects of process variables (such as coal pulp density, particle size and addition of surfactants) on pyrite removal have been investigated in both shake and airlift-bioreactor culture experiments. In shake experiments, pyrite could be removed over 78% for pulp densifies below 20% (w/v) and removed below 40% for pulp densities over 30% (w/v) in 8 days. Pyrite removal decreased with increasing pulp densities, and it also decreased sharply with increasing particle sizes. In airlift bioreactor experiments, pyrite at 50% (w/v) pulp density could be removed about 50%. Its value is much higher than 15% at the same pulp density in a shake experiment. With addition of surfactants, pyrite removal was enhanced in shake experiments significantly, whereas it was slightly decreased in an airlift bioreactor experiment.

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Generation of the KOMPSAT-2 Ortho Mosaic Imagery on the Korean Peninsula (아리랑위성 2호 한반도 정사모자이크영상 제작)

  • Lee, Kwang-Jae;Yyn, Hee-Cheon;Kim, Youn-Soo
    • Journal of the Korean Association of Geographic Information Studies
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    • v.16 no.3
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    • pp.103-114
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    • 2013
  • In this study, we established the ortho mosaic imagery on the Korean Peninsula using KOMPSAT-2 images and conducted an accuracy assessment. Rational Polynomial Coefficient(RPC) modeling results were mostly less than 2 pixels except for mountainous regions which was difficult to select a Ground Control Point(GCP). Digital Elevation Model(DEM) which was made using the digital topographic map on the scale of 1:5,000 was used for generating an ortho image. In the case of inaccessible area, the Shuttle Radar Topography Mission(SRTM) DEM was used. Meanwhile, the ortho mosaic image of the Korean Peninsula was produced by each ortho image aggregation and color adjustment. An accuracy analysis for the mosaic image was conducted about a 1m color fusion image. In order to verify a geolocation accuracy, 813 check points which were acquired by field survey in South Korea were used. We found that the maximum error was not to exceed 5m(Root Mean Square Error : RMSE). On the other hand, in the case of inaccessible area, the extracted check points from a reference image were used for accuracy analysis. Approximately 69% of the image has a positional accuracy of less than 3m(RMSE). We found that the seam-line accuracy among neighboring image was very high through visual inspection. However, there were a discrepancy with 1 to 2 pixels at some mountainous regions.

A Seamline Extraction Technique Considering the Characteristic of NDVI for High Resolution Satellite Image Mosaics (고해상도 위성영상 모자이크를 위한 NDVI 특성을 이용한 접합선 추출 기법)

  • Kim, Jiyoung;Chae, Taebyeong;Byun, Younggi
    • Korean Journal of Remote Sensing
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    • v.31 no.5
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    • pp.395-408
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    • 2015
  • High-resolution satellite image mosaics are becoming increasingly important in the field of remote sensing image analysis as an essential image processing to create a large image constructed from several smaller images. In this paper, we present an automatic seamline extraction technique and the procedure to generate a mosaic image by this technique. For more effective seamline extraction in the overlap region of adjacent images, an NDVI-based seamline extraction technique is developed, which takes advantage of the computational time and memory. The Normalized Difference Vegetation Index(NDVI) is an index of plant "greeness" or photosynthetic activity that is employed to extract the initial seamline. The NDVI can divide into manmade region and natural region. The cost image is obtained by the canny edge detector and the buffering technique is used to extract the ranging cost image. The seamline is extracted by applying the Dijkstra algorithm to a cost image generated through the labeling process of the extracted edge information. Histogram matching is also conducted to alleviate radiometric distortion between adjacent images acquired at different time. In the experimental results using the KOMPSAT-2/3 satellite imagery, it is confirmed that the proposed method greatly reduces the visual discontinuity caused by geometric difference of adjacent images and the computation time.

Sewing Method of Inner Collar of Women's Jeogori in Modern Korea (근대이후 저고리 안감깃 봉제방법 소고)

  • Kim, Jin-Hong;Cho, Woo-Hyun
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.10 no.2
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    • pp.139-147
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    • 2008
  • This study aims to investigate and analyze sewing methods according to the shape of the inner collar among women's jeogories in order to understand such sewing techniques, which has emerged during modern Korea, and has utilized diversly for the shape of the jeogori's inner collar and as part of the inner collar. The study was conducted on relics possessed between 1900 to 1990, or 515 pieces of jeogories. Jeogories were classified into single-layered and double-layered jeogories according to the shape of their composition. Inner collar shapes of jeogories have also been categorized. It was found that single-layered jeogories comprise 49 inner collars with shapes identical to those of the outer collars. Double-layered jeogories comprise of the following three types: 43 pieces of godae close, 18 pieces in which the inner collar of the outer bodice are cut without a connecting line and the inner collar of the godae and inner bodice are suspended, and 405 pieces in which the share of the inner collar is identical to that of the outer collar. From the shapes of inner collars mentioned above, the following sewing methods have been derived: 1. To sew the inner collar of single-layered jeogories, a seaming technique had been used. 2. Among the inner collars of a double-layered jeogori, godae close was sewn with only a short part of the godae by using a lining, and then finished with overage and blind stitches. Godae close was a covenient way to attach inner collars, and also saved much time. 3. Inner collars with shapes identical to the outer collar are divided into two groups: those with outer collars cut out fellowing the cloth without seam and shifted towards the linings and used as an inner collar, and those with outer collars made of outer linings and inner collar of inner linings. To sew the collar, paste and needlework had been employed, where the methods of needlework were divided into blind stitch, overage stitch, and catch stitch. In sewing with paste, only godae was blind stitched or overage stitched, and the remainder had been painted with paste or the collar had been finished with heated soldering iron after the entire inner collar was painted with paste.

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Wearable Art-Chameleon Dress (웨어러블 아트-카멜레온 드레스)

  • Cho, Kyoung-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.32 no.12
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    • pp.1837-1847
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    • 2008
  • The goal of this study is to express the image of chameleons-that change their colors by light, temperature and its mood-into the sexy styles of corresponding coquettish temperamental people in Wearable Art. The method used in this study was experimenting various production mediums, including creating the textured stretch fabric, in the process of expressing the conceptual characteristics of the chameleon in Wearable Art. The concept of the work was a concoction of 'tempting', 'splendid', 'brilliant', 'fascinating', etc. that highlighted the real disposition of the chameleon. The futuristic preference of the researcher was also implicated. "Comfortable" and "enjoyable" concepts via motions were improved with the its completeness. The point of the design and production is to express symbolically the chameleon in real life, analyzing its sleek body lines, conditional colors changing, outer skins and the cubic textures. The coquettish temperamental image, the conceptual image of the chameleon, was also expressed by implication into the whole work. The entire line of this work is body-conscious silhouette. It was symbolically selected to image the outline of the chameleon that has the slim and sleek body. The exposed back is intended to express symbolically the projected back bones of the chameleon. The hood of gentle triangle line expresses the smooth-lined head part. The irregular hemlines represent the elongated chameleon's tale. The chameleon with its colors of vivid tones is characterized the colors changing by its conditions. This point was importantly treated in the working process by trying the effects that the colors are seen slightly different according to the light and angles. The material was given the effect that its surface colors are seen different in lights and angles because of the wrinkles protruded lumpy-bumpy. The various stones of red and blue tones are very similar to the skin tones of the real chameleon, and their gradation makes the effect that the colors are visibly changed with each move. The textures of the chameleon were produced via the wrinkle effect of smoke-shape, which is the result of using the elastic threads on the basic mediums stitched with 50/50 chiffon and polyester along with velvet dot patterns. The stretching fabric by the impact of the elastic threads is as much suitable for making the body-conscious line. The stones are composed of acrylic cabochon and gemstone. They are symbolically expressed the lumpy and bumpy back skin of the chameleon and produced the effect of the colors visibly different. The primary technique used in this dress is the draping utilizing the biased grains. The front body piece is connected to the hood and joined to the back piece without any seam. For the irregular hemline flares, leaving the several rectangular pieces with bias grains, they were connected by interlocking. What defines the clothes is the person in action. Therefore, what decides the completeness of clothes might be its comfortable and enjoyable feeling by living and acting people. The chameleon dress could also reach its goal of comforting and pleasing Wearable Art in the process of studying the techniques and effects that visibly differentiate the colors. It is considered as a main point of the Wearable Art, which is a comfortable enjoyable clothing tempered with the artistic beauty.

A Study of the Gwanbok (1st period) of Meritorious Vassals' Portraits in the Joseon Dynasty (조선시대 공신초상(功臣肖像)의 관복(제1기) 고찰)

  • Kim, Migyung;Lee, Eunjoo
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.53 no.2
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    • pp.180-203
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    • 2020
  • In this study, the period before the Gwanbok of meritorious vassals' portraits was expressed in the acheongsaek-Heuk-Danryung was defined as the first period, and the costumes worn in portraits of meritorious vassals from Gaeguk (1392) in the early Joseon Dynasty to Jwali (1471) during the era of King Seongjong were reviewed. The portraits(1476) of Jeokgae meritorious vassals (1467) depicted as the Gwanbok of acheongsaek Heuk-Danryung were excluded. Among the copies that are currently considered to be portraits of meritorious vassals belonging to the first period, the portraits of Lee-je, Lee Cheon-woo, Ma Cheon-mok, Shin Suk-ju, Seol Gye-jo, and Lee Sung-won were selected, and the formative characteristics of Gwanbok components were examined. The Samo of Sam-Gongsin in the early Joseon Dynasty had a low height, a rounded end, and the side wings were narrow and short. However, since King Danjong, Jeongnan·Jwali meritorious vassals retained a higher form, and the side wings were twice as long. It was also confirmed that the pattern was not expressed in the side wings. The Danryung was expressed in light-colored Danryung without specific colors at the beginning of the country. After King Sejong, the Heuk-Danryung system for Yebok began, but it was not reflected in the Gwanbok of meritorious vassals' portraits, and was expressed as damhongsaek-Danryung after King Danjong. The pattern was not expressed on the exterior of the Danryung, and inner-wrinkled Mu was expressed on the side line. The Dapho and Cheolrik, the undergarments of the Danryung, were also confirmed as being blue (the Dapho) and green (the Cheolrik) after the Jeongnan meritorious vassals. The early Sam-Gongsin's Pumgye was expressed by rank belt, but as the system of rank badge was established after King Danjong, it began to express the Pumgye by rank badge and rank belt. Among the portraits of meritorious vassals, the rank badge was expressed only in the portrait of Sin Suk-ju, a Jeongnan meritorious vassal. As Hwaja worn on the Danryung, Heuk-hwa were confirmed in the Sam-Gongsin portraits of the early Joseon Dynasty. However, in the portraits of Jeongnan and Jwali meritorious vassals after King Danjong, the Baek-hwa was confirmed. In addition, in the seam parts of the Heuk-hwa and Baek-hwa identified in some portraits of meritorious vassals, Hwi decorated with yeongeumsa were identified, and it was found that the Hwaja decorated with Hwi were the Hyeopgeum-hwa worn by the 3rd rank and above.