• Water for future
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.101-117
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• 1977

The statatistical characteristics and spectra of sea waves at Mookho were analysed by several statistical methods. As the results, the following conclusions are obtained: 1. Values of surface elevation of sea wave are better fitted to Gram Charlier distribution than Gaussian distribution. This proves that sea waves have not only characters of irregularity but also non-linearity. 2. Distribution of maxima of surface elevation practically follows the distribution of Cartwright and Longuet-Higgins, also spectral width parameter is found to be increased with the increase of root mean square of surface elevation. 3. Sea wave may have spectrum of broad frequency band, however distributions of wave heights and periods follow the Rayleigh distribution which is derived from the assumption of narrow frequency band. 4. Ratios among mean wave heights from observed data show good agreements with theoretical values from Rayleigh distribution. 5. Spectral density and spectral width parameter increase with increase of wind velocity. And wave period at optimum band gas higher value than significant wave period by about 10 percent.

• Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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• v.47 no.2
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• pp.168-173
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• 2014

The effect of critical minimum depth in the coastal region on storm surges was examined using a three-dimensional primitive equation model (POM). Case studies using numerical experiments in a small coastal bay in the southern sea of Korea (Hanam Bay) have examined the 'critical depth' (CD) that stabilizes the numerical calculations. Dependence of the CD of typhoon tracks and tidal components such as M2, S2, O1, and K1 were examined. The model results clearly demonstrated that the numerically unstable state of the calculation was caused by the coarse resolution of sea surface elevation.

• International Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology Speciallssue:Selected Papers
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.10-21
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• 2001

A new method of laser remote sensing is proposed, based on sensing the sea surface by a narrow laser beam (2-3cm) and analyzing statistically specular reflections. Construction of the angular dependency of the average density of specks versus the aircraft flight horizontal azimuth allows calculation of both intensity and azimuthal properties of the sea surface spectrum. The paper contains the experimental setup and technique, the field measurement data taken onboard an aircraft and the examples of calculated main statistical parameters of sea waves. Their energy-carrying component velocity is found by the mean velocity of an ensemble of specular points at the random sea surface. The surface wave nonlinearity is shown to affect substantially the statistical characteristics measured: mean numbers of specular areas with th given elevation and given slope, arranged along the line of crossing the sea surface by the scanning laser beam. Experimental measurement of a variance in the number of these areas yields a principal possibility to calculate the correlation function of the sea surface without its preliminary modeling.

• Journal of Ecology and Environment
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• v.47 no.2
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• pp.49-62
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• 2023

Background: Over the past three decades, gradual eustatic sea-level rise has been considered a primary exogenous factor in the increased frequency of flooding and biological changes in several salt marshes. Under this paradigm, the potential importance of short-term events, such as ocean storminess, in coastal hydrology and ecology is underrepresented in the literature. In this study, a simulation was developed to evaluate the influence of wind waves driven by atmospheric oscillations on sedimentary and vegetation dynamics at the Skallingen salt marsh in southwestern Denmark. The model was built based on long-term data of mean sea level, sediment accretion, and plant species composition collected at the Skallingen salt marsh from 1933-2006. In the model, the submergence frequency (number yr^-1) was estimated as a combined function of wind-driven high water level (HWL) events (> 80 cm Danish Ordnance Datum) affected by the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) and changes in surface elevation (cm yr^-1). Vegetation dynamics were represented as transitions between successional stages controlled by flooding effects. Two types of simulations were performed: (1) baseline modeling, which assumed no effect of wind-driven sea-level change, and (2) experimental modeling, which considered both normal tidal activity and wind-driven sea-level change. Results: Experimental modeling successfully represented the patterns of vegetation change observed in the field. It realistically simulated a retarded or retrogressive successional state dominated by early- to mid-successional species, despite a continuous increase in surface elevation at Skallingen. This situation is believed to be caused by an increase in extreme HWL events that cannot occur without meteorological ocean storms. In contrast, baseline modeling showed progressive succession towards the predominance of late-successional species, which was not the then-current state in the marsh. Conclusions: These findings support the hypothesis that variations in the NAO index toward its positive phase have increased storminess and wind tides on the North Sea surface (especially since the 1980s). This led to an increased frequency and duration of submergence and delayed ecological succession. Researchers should therefore employ a multitemporal perspective, recognizing the importance of short-term sea-level changes nested within long-term gradual trends.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.422-432
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• 2013

A System Identification method to develop parametric models linking free surface elevation and wave pressure is presented and two models are built allowing for either wave pressure or free surface elevation simulation. Linear, time invariant model structures with static nonlinearities are assumed and solutions are sought in a form of autoregressive model with extra input (ARX). An arbitrary chosen free-surface elevation and wave pressure dataset is used for estimation of the models, which are subsequently verified against datasets with similar pressure gauge depth but different free-surface elevation spectra due to different meteorological conditions. It is shown that free-surface simulation using System Identification methods can perform better than traditional linear transfer function derived from linear wave theory (LTF), while wave pressure simulation quality using presented methods is generally similar to that obtained with corrected LTF.

• 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2008.02a
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• pp.199-202
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• 2008

It is well-known fact that tidal difference between the ebb and flow in Yellow Sea is about 9 m so that it has largest value in the world. This wide range of tide level enables Yellow Sea water to intrude into main stream of Han River. However, the study of the tidal reach of Han River has not been carried out thoroughly since North and South Koreas share this region so that topography data and physical measurement are lacking. In this study, to examine the reverse flow and dispersion behavior by tidal effect at the tidal reach of Han River, 2-D river analysis models were applied. RMA-2 was applied to calculate the horizontal velocities and water surface elevation. With the results of velocities and water depth, RAM4, which is 2-D advection-dispersion model based on FEM was simulated to analyze the horizontal transport behavior of BOD.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1995.10a
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• pp.1-4
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• 1995

Storm surges are defined as abnormal changes of sea surface elevation whose periods range from several hours to days. The generation mechanism is separated into two. One is sea water suction due to atmospheric depression and the other is wind-driven sea water circulation. The former is a forced long-wave motion which is accompanied by a typhoon. (omitted)

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2006.11a
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• pp.121-126
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• 2006

Modern Ocean wave forecasting systems predict the mean sea state, as characterized by the wave spectrum, in a box of size ${\Delta}x{\Delta}y$ surrounding a grid point at location x. It is shown that this approach also allows the determination of deviations from the mean sea state, i.e. the probability distribution function of the surface elevation. Hence, ocean wave forecasting may provide valuable information on extreme sea states.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.252-258
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• 2019

In this paper, the time history of the surface elevation measured at the Draupner platform in the North Sea in 1995 is used to examine the statistical characteristics of the wave data. The wave statistics for 48 surface measurements, which contain three freak wave occurrences, are summarized. The quartiles, boxplots, correlations, and pair plots of 15 variables, along with the abnormality index, are presented. The kurtosis and skewness of the surface elevation are two variables that are highly correlated with the abnormality index, which defines freak waves. Principal coordinate analysis showed that the direction of the changes in the abnormality index agreed with the changes in the kurtosis and skewness. In addition, various wave heights, except the maximum wave height, showed a similar direction for the height changes, and various wave periods showed a similar direction for the period changes. Based on the correlations and PCA analysis, the kurtosis and skewness of the surface profiles are the two most important variables to predict the abnormality index.

• Proceedings of the Korea Electromagnetic Engineering Society Conference
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• 2005.11a
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• pp.143-148
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• 2005

The objective of this study is to estimate RF signal strength over sea and land surfaces. For this work we calculated scattering by land with DEM(Digital Elevation Model) and sea surface with RMS surface height. and we selected two area inland and sea shore as RX point. And for each area, we get VV-pol and HH-pol characteristic of scattering at 2.2GHz.