• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.149-160
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• 2002

Symbolism found in a certain object inherits characteristics from the culture that contains the objects. The purpose of this study was investigate the formative beauty of Korean trousers twisted the pieces together based on the way of Korean thinks and the Topology. The shape is formed by cutting from the fabric. From the perspective of semiology, the fabric and the pattern shape correspond to ground and figure. Ground and figure are identical with the principle of the whole and the part, which is the same in Korea, China, and the West. But In Korea, the 3-dimensional garment is made by adding a twist. This is very important and defines the difference in the way of thinking and topology. Korean trousers consist of three parts : Hury, Marupok, and Sapok. The small Sapok can be made by removing the Marupok and large Sapok (figure) from the fabric (ground) when making Korean trousers. A Mobius strip is made when the large Sapok is adjoined with the small Sapok by reversing the small Sapok, making a 180$^{\circ}$twist and then stitching together. The theory of Mobius strip can be applied in Joining Bajiburi. thus when the trousers are completed the Klein's bottle is seen because of the 2 existing Mobius strop. The theory of Mobius strip can be applied in Joining Bajiburi, thus when the trousers are completed the Klein's bottle is seen because of the 2 existing Mobius strip. Hury is cylinder while the small and large Sapok make up the Mobius strip. As a result, Mobius strip, Kleins'bottle, protective plan can be applied in cutting Hanbok used in the countryside, so I have come to see that the traditional Korean way of thinking is closely related to the theory of topological.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.7
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• pp.45-55
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• 2002

This study aimed at proving the fact that Men also wear SOKGOT similar to women's pants in early Chosun era unlike the general opinion that the men's pants is SAPOK-BAJI. From what SAPOK-BAJI didn't show up in the contemporary remains and the fact that men also wear GAE-DANG-GO (the pants opened low parts). which is one of SOKGOT types in ancient time of China, the assumption above can be guessed. Since the clothes style in Chosun era centered on PO. and the pants were designed not to show out. it can be considered there are any troubles for men to wear the SOKGOT style pants. But through Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592 and Chinese invasion of Korea in 1636. changes happened. Due to reflection and awaking about wide and burdensome clothes. the change seemed to be happened from wide SOKGOT style to narrow SAPOK style. The SOKGOT style pants seemed to settle down for women's only as men's pants become SAPOK-BAJI.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.7 s.144
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• pp.909-917
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• 2005

Based on the theory that formation of Korean Men's Traditional Trousers is related to Mobius strip, this study researches correlation between distinctive construction of Korean Men's Traditional Trousers and historical background based on old documents and restoration. Distinctive construction of Korean Men's Traditional Trousers are as follows. First, Korean Men's Traditional Trousers is manufactured just like Principle of Mobius strip that the square is twisted once, considering its materials' conditions. Second, Korean Men's Traditional Trousers, manufactured larger, feature cubic effect and twisted formative beauty because its waist and ankle parts are tightened with bands. Third, Korean Men's Traditional Trousers, composed of big Sapok and small Sapok in oblique, are suitable for active play due to its high functionality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.15
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• pp.21-45
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• 1990

The purpose of this thesis is to study the method of the reasonable pattern design. The studying method is based on the original principle of the trousers' cutting and I have a hypothesis about the trousers pattern which should be proved. When I selected the practical method, I made use of the international measuring rule, graph paper and tracing paper, in order to prove the new pattern design. The reasonable pattern design should be the one of the suitable original principles to be suited in the design through any measurement. Therefore, I have discussed the above mentioned design. I find out the conclusion to prove the hypothesis of pattern design with the experimental measure after showing the above mentiond design. The characteristics is as follows. First : To be convinient when walking, because of little degree as folding of the front part of trousers with the under-angle. Second : To be suitable in proportion to the length of trousers and the under-angle. Third ; When folding the center line of the Sapok (a name of one of the trousers parts), the length of the Sapoks is same and harmonized with the Sapoks because of the same angle of both Sapoks in any case of the measurement. Fourth : No correction of the lines when dressing, for the same points of the large Sapok and the small one. Fifth : To be easiness of the pattern design through the concrete measurement. I could find out a little extent errors of pattern showings, an easiness of dressing, scientification of formation in Korean trousers and standard of the practical measurement in the program to be presented as the result of studying.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.197-205
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• 2001

It is possible to examine the costume of Chosun era that tombs excavated in chonnam area, have contained various kinds of clothes. There are six tombs in which costumes have been excavated in Chonnam provinces. One(Go un) is tomb of the early years of Chosun Dynasty and the other tombs is those of the middle years of Chosun Dynasty(16∼17 century). There were many kinds of Po which was called Jickryung, Danryung, Chullik, Dappo, Jangui, So-changui etc, and contained chechori, skirts, under-trousers in tombs. But there are not see Kuui, Dopo that excavated in other area. Chullik showed the features of winkle, sleeves and the ratio of length. Dappo was only to be seen in a Go uns grave. Mens chechori collar(kit) was called Mokpankit in all, and womans chechori collar was called Kalkit or Tangkokit. The length of chechori was different according to the times. Most trousers are types of underwear and also there are Sapok tousers, open trousers. The characterstics of excavated costumes are not regional feature but trend of the times. The costumes excavated in Chonnam area are similiar to those excavated in other area at the same times.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.347-354
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• 2014

'Heongbu and Nolbu 1' is a series of the on-line game 'Tales Runner.' It is based on a traditional Korean fairy tale. However, the game characters in Heongbu and Nolbu 1 wear casual clothes even though the game is set in the Joseon Dynasty. Therefore, this paper presents proposed game characters clothes based on traditional Korean costumes from the Joseon Dynasty. This work should help inspire gamers and game designers with the beauty of Korean traditional costumes and familiarize them with an aspect of Korean people's identity. A literature review of online games and game characters was carried out, and game characters' clothes were analyzed. The design motifs of historical relics of the Joseon era were evaluated. Three styles, one traditional and two "fusion" styles integrating traditional and modern elements were proposed for each of the 4 characters: Chowon, Ruff, Bada and Abell. The chulrik and jurip were used as design motifs for Chowon. A traditional chulrik, short chulriks and pants are suggested. Second, the dongari and jeonrip were used as design motifs for Ruff. A traditional dongdari, sapok pants, deck pants and a vest are suggested. Third, the jeogori and chima were used as design motifs for Bada. A traditional female hanbok, arm warmers, short-sleeved jeogori and dress are suggested. Fourth, the dang-ui and daeran-chima were used as design motifs for Abell. A traditional dang-ui and daeran-chima, blouse, skirt, jumper and tight Bermuda shorts are suggested. The length, shape and color were converted into new styles, but some traditional elements such as the git and goreum were retained.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.367-374
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• 2003

When analyzing forms in the human body and clothes, we conceptualize each part into a cone, sphere, and cylinder, and the esthetic characteristics of our fashion culture and esthetic fashion characteristics of Koreans are composed by expressing with universal images such as circle, square, and triangle when forms are expressed in a plane. To determine how the structural principle of shapes that are the shapes of all things and basic to geometry, i.e., circle, square, and triangle, applies to clothes that cloth our body called the small cosmos, we discussed the symbolic meaning hidden inside the structure of Korean clothes based on the basic pattern drafting method of Korean men’s traditional trousers. We drew the conclusion that Korean men's trousers composed of circles, triangles, and squares express the five elements diagram through their plane structure, are designed in circles with cones and pyramids, and are made to well express the principle of the small cosmos of our body. Moreover, when the basic pattern of Korean men’s trousers explained with the antipathy diagram is viewed to create all things while maintaining opposite and complementary relationship with Sangsang (mutually benefitting factor), it would be correct to say that the principle of the top verse the bottom is viewed as conflicting. From the structural point of view, since the philosophy of the Samsu principle (the principle of 1, 2 and 3 in which 1 represents the heaven, 2 represents the earth, and 3 represents the people) is hidden in Korean men's trousers in which Hurimalgi (the part of trousers corresponding to the waist band of Western pants) is the circle representing the heaven, Marupok is the square representing the earth, and Sapok is the triangle representing the people, we could look at deep meaning of our ancestors expressed in our clothes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.68-91
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to create modern patterns based on considering the types and design elements of Joseon hwapo patterns containing Korean identity, and to develop costume designs by applying design elements of traditional Korean dress, Hanbok. These designs combine traditional costumes with modern sensibility using the attribute listing method, and present them using a 3D virtual clothing program. Through this, it is meaningful as it organizes data on Joseon hwapo patterns, which were rarely dealt with in the traditional Korean costume research, and it is also of research value as it is a work that utilizes Joseon hwapo patterns as a new source of fashion design development. As a research method, literature research was conducted based on the documents, 'Nabeshima-sarasa hidensho', 'Nabeshima-sarasa mihoncho', and 'Zoho kafu benran', which are related to Joseon hwapo remaining in Japan. Based on the literature research, research was performed by creating pattern design and costume design using the attribute listing method, and 3D virtual clothing. Traditional Korean costumes used in design development in this study were saekdong-jeogori, dolddi-jeogori, magoja, hongjangsam, durumagi, jungdan, gollyongpo, jeogui, breast band, mujigi-chima, chima, and baji. Further, accessories used in each costume, such as pyeseul, daedae, hapi, and jeonhaeng-utchima, and features of configurations, such as yongbo, chest ribbons, band hem, gusset, collar and dongjung, heorimalgi, neckline, and sapok line, were used for design development.