• 한국해양환경ㆍ에너지학회지
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.207-215
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• 2004

최근 육지역에서 새로운 넓은 용지의 확보가 어려워짐에 따라, 이를 해역에서 찾으려 하는 경향이 나타나고 있으며, 이러한 개발은 개발이 예정된 주변 연안역에 광범위한 해빈변형문제를 야기할 위험이 있다. 따라서 인공섬 등과 같은 외해 구조물을 계획할 경우에는 구조물 건설이 인접 해역의 해빈변형에 미치는 영향을 사전에 적적히 예측할 필요가 있다. 본 연구는 연안역의 침식을 포함한 해빈변형예측모델의 개발을 목적으로, 3차원 이동상 실험을 수행하여 외해 구조물 배후의 표사이동 양상을 분석한 것이다. 실험을 통하여, 외해 구조물 배후의 해빈변형에서 해안선측과 수심역의 해빈변형 기구가 상호 독립되어 있음을 밝혔다. 구체적으로는 소상대를 포함하는 해안선측은 등심선에 대한 파의 입사방향에 대응하는 표사이동이 탁월하며, 수심역에서는 파의 왕복운동에 의한 소류 및 부유사가 해빈류에 지배되어 이동하고, 양자는 해빈에서 형성되는 부분 중복파와 연관된 특정 경계를 기준으로 서로 분리되어 이동함을 규명하였다. 이들 실험 결과는 해빈변형모델의 개발에서 중요한 열쇠를 제공하리라 사료되며, 또한 기 개발된 모델의 검정자료로써도 활용될 수 있으리라 기대된다.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.61-97
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• 2016

This is the second of two papers on the 3D numerical modeling of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics. In Part I, the focus was on surf and swash zone hydrodynamics in the cross-shore and longshore directions. Here, we consider nearshore processes with an emphasis on the effects of oceanic forcing and beach characteristics on sediment transport in the cross- and longshore directions, as well as on foreshore bathymetry changes. The Delft3D and XBeach models were used with four turbulence closures (viz., ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES) to solve the 3D Navier-Stokes equations for incompressible flow as well as the beach morphology. The sediment transport module simulates both bed load and suspended load transport of non-cohesive sediments. Twenty sets of numerical experiments combining nine control parameters under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were simulated. For each case, the general morphological response in shore-normal and shore-parallel directions was presented. Numerical results showed that the ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ and H-LES closure models yield similar results that are in better agreement with existing morphodynamic observations than the results of the other turbulence models. The simulations showed that wave forcing drives a sediment circulation pattern that results in bar and berm formation. However, together with wave forcing, tides modulate the predicted nearshore sediment dynamics. The combination of tides and wave action has a notable effect on longshore suspended sediment transport fluxes, relative to wave action alone. The model's ability to predict sediment transport under propagation of obliquely incident wave conditions underscores its potential for understanding the evolution of beach morphology at field scale. For example, the results of the model confirmed that the wave characteristics have a considerable effect on the cumulative erosion/deposition, cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport and transport rate across and along the beach face. In addition, for the same type of oceanic forcing, the beach morphology exhibits different erosive characteristics depending on grain size (e.g., foreshore profile evolution is erosive or accretive on fine or coarse sand beaches, respectively). Decreasing wave height increases the proportion of onshore to offshore fluxes, almost reaching a neutral net balance. The sediment movement increases with wave height, which is the dominant factor controlling the beach face shape.