• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2019.11a
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• pp.153-154
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• 2019

본 연구에서는 일본 기상청(JMA)에서 제공하는 JMA-MSM (Meso-Scale Model) 바람장을 SWAN 모델에 입력자료로 적용하여 파랑전파를 모의하였다. 영역은 심해역·중간역·연안역으로 설정하였다. 산출된 모델링의 결과는 관측자료와 비교·검증하여 모델 구축에 대한 신뢰성을 확보하였다. 그리고 연안역에서 SWAN모델의 파랑스펙트럼정보를 입력조건으로 하는 SWASH모델의 영역을 구축하여 두 모델간 파랑전파양상을 비교하였다. SWAN(phase-averaged) 모델과 SWASH(phase-resolving) 모델은 지배방정식의 차이에 따라 파랑의 위상처리 방식 등의 차이가 있다. 이로 인한 연안역에서의 파랑전파양상의 차이를 비교하였다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.57-65
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• 2007

Shallow water waves are hindcasted from sea wind fields, which include wave transformations such as shoaling, refraction, diffraction, reflection and wave breaking. In case of estimating sea wind field in shallow water, the sea wind revised from free wind obtained by the typhoon model is widely used. However, this method is not able to consider the effect of land topography on the wind field, which will be important factor for shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting. In this study, therefore, the effect of land topography on sea wind field in shallow water is investigated for shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting with high accuracy. The 3-D MASCON model is introduced to consider the influence of land topography on the wind field. And, for two areas divided by the topographical characteristics, i.e. shielded and opened coastal areas, sea wind field is examined by comparison between initial wind field by typhoon model and modified wind field by 3-D MASCON model. Finally, applying these sea wind fields to SWAN model, the results of shallow water wave calculated in shielded and opened coastal areas are compared, and, also, the effect of MASCON model on shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting is discussed.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.137-145
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• 2004

Long-term wave distribution at Jeju sea is investigated by a numerical simulation based on the thirdgeneration wave model SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore). The Jeju sea which retains relatively high wave energy density among Korean coastal regions is considered to be a suitable site for wave power generation and the efficiency of wave power generation is closely related to local wave characteristics. The monthly mean of a large-scale long-term wave data from 1979 to 2002, which is provided by Korea Ocean Research & Development Institute. is used as the boundary condition of SWAN model simulation with 1km grid. An analysis of wave distribution concentrates on the seasonal variation and spatial distribution of significant wave heights, mean wave directions and mean wave periods. Significant wave heights are higher in winter and summer and the west sea of Jeju appears relatively higher than east's. The highest significant wave height occurs at the northeast sea in winter and the second highest significant wave height appears at the southeast sea in summer, while the significant wave heights in spring and autumn are relatively low but homogeneous. The distribution of wave directions reveals that except the rear region influenced by wave refraction, the northwest wave direction is dominant in summer and the southeast in winter. Wave periods are longer in summer and winter and the west sea of Jeju appears relatively longer than east's. The longest wave period occurs at the west sea in winter, and in summer it appears relatively homogeneous with a little longer period at the south sea.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.26 no.7
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• pp.881-891
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• 2020

In recent years, large-scale development of coastal areas has caused the loss of many lives and extensive property damage in coastal areas, due to wave overtopping caused by high-wave invasion and strong typhoons. However, coastal inundation studies considering the characteristics of domestic coastal areas are insufficient. This study is a methodology study that aimed to reproduce inundation of surge and wave complex elements by applying the ADCSWAN (ADCIRC+SWAN) and FLOW-3D models. In this study, the boundary data (sea level, wave) of the FLOW-3D model was extracted using the ADCSWAN (ADCIRC+SWAN) model and applied as the input value of the FLOW-3D model and a reproduction was created of the Flooding due to surge and overtopping in Busan Marine City when the typhoon Chaba passed. In addition, the existing overtopping empirical equation and the overtopping calculated by the FLOW-3D model were compared, and for coastal inundation, a qualitative verification was performed using the Inundation Trace Map of Land and Geospatial Informatrix Corporation, and the effectiveness of this study was reviewed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.5
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• pp.223-233
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• 2018

The predictability of winter storm waves using KMA's operational wind forecasts has been studied to predict wind waves and swells in the East coast of Korea using SWAN. The nested model were employed along the East coast of Korea to simulate the wave transformation in the coastal area and wave dissipation term of whitecapping is optimized to improve swell prediction accuracy. In this study, KMA's operational meteorological models (RDAPS and LDAPS) are used as input wind fields. In order to evaluate model accuracy, we also simulate wind waves and swells using ECMWF reanalysis and KIOST WRF wind and they are compared with the KMA's operational wave model and the wave measurement data on the offshore and onshore stations. As a result, it has the lowest RMSE and the highest correlation coefficient in the onshore when the input wind fields are KMA's operational meteorological forecasts. In the offshore, all of the simulate results shows good agreements with similar error statistics. It means that it is very feasible to use SWAN model with the modified whitecapping factor and KMA's operational meteorological forecasts for predicting the wind waves and swells in the East coast of Korea.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.383-396
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• 2016

In this study, wave model was conducted on the presence or absence of water level changes and currents effects in coastal waters coexisting with waves and currents, then the results were compared. The flow field applied the results of the RIAMOM model and the wave model applied the SWAN model. Among ECMWF, NCEP and JMA, wind data applied JMA data sets which agreed well with the observed data comparatively. Numerical simulation was conducted for 8 months from January to August 2016. For each case, the deviation of wave height was calculated for the high wave of more than 2.5 m for comparison with observed data. As a result, the deviation of wave height was not significant both considering water level changes and currents effects or not at wave observation stations installed in deep waters. However, a significant deviation of wave height of 5~10% was obtained depending on water level changes and currents effects at the comparison point in shallow waters.

• Journal of Environmental Science International
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.409-431
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• 2014

In this study, the characteristics in the simulation of high-resolution coastal weather, i.e. sea surface wind (SSW) and significant wave height (SWH), were studied in a southeastern coastal region of Korea using the WRF and SWAN models. This analyses was performed based on the effects of various input factors in the WRF and SWAN model during M-Case (moderate days with average 1.8 m SWH and $8.4ms^{-1}$ SSW) and R-Case (rough days with average 3.4 m SWH and $13.0ms^{-1}$ SSW) according to the strength of SSW and SWH. The effects of topography (TP), land cover (LC), and sea surface temperature (SST) for the simulation of SSW with the WRF model were somewhat high on v-component winds along the coastline and the adjacent sea of a more detailed grid simulation (333 m) during R-Case. The LC effect was apparent in all grid simulations during both cases regardless of the strength of SSW, whereas the TP effect had shown a difference (decrease or increase) of wind speed according to the strength of SSW (M-Case or R-Case). In addition, the effects of monthly mean currents (CR) and deepwater design waves (DW) for the simulation of SWH with the SWAN model predicted good agreement with observed SWH during R-Case compared to the M-Case. For example, the effects of CR and DW contributed to the increase of SWH during R-Case regardless of grid resolution, whereas the differences (decrease or increase) of SWH occurred according to each effect (CR or DW) during M-Case.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.350-360
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• 2016

In order to investigate characteristics of waves and currents varying in space in the Haeundae coast in winter, numerical simulations by using a 2-D spectral wave model(SWAN) and 2-DH hydrodynamic model(Delft3D) were carried out in this study. The results of numerical simulations were validated with the field data collected at several different locations in the study area in February, 2014. From the numerical simulations, it was found that waves and currents were significantly influenced in terms of direction and magnitude by bottom topography characterized by straggling rock crops covered with sea grasses. The coupling of SWAN and Delft3D models also revealed that alongshore currents directing from the east to the west were developed in the nearshore, due to the influence of larger waves with the main incident direction from the east.

• Proceedings of KOSOMES biannual meeting
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• 2017.04a
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• pp.264-264
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• 2017

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.33-44
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• 2013

IIn this study, a wave-surge-tide coupling numerical model was developed to consider nonlinear interaction. Then, this model was applied and calculations were made for a storm surge on the southeast coast. The southeast coast was damaged by typhoon "Maemi" in 2003. In this study, we used a nearshore wind wave model called SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore). In addition, the Meyer model was used for the typhoon model, along with an ocean circulation model called POM (Princeton Ocean Model). The wave-surge-tide coupling numerical model could calculate exact parameters when each model was changed to consider the nonlinear interaction.