• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제17권2호
• /
• pp.287-294
• /
• 2015

This study investigates the physical properties of Murata Vortex Spinning (MVS) blended yarn with yarn count(20's, 30's, 40's) and blend ratio(Polyester 100, Polyester70:Cotton30, Polyester50:Cotton50, Polyester30:Cotton70, and Polyester50:Tencel40:Cotton10). This study evaluated tenacity, elongation, bending rigidity, bending hysteresis, hairiness coefficient, irregularity and twist number. The structure of MVS blended yarn influenced stress, strain, bending rigidity, bending hysteresis and the hairiness coefficient of MVS blended yarn decreased as the yarn count increased. MVS blended yarn consists of core and sheath. The core of MVS blended yarn is composed of a parallel fiber with a wrapping fiber that covers thecore fiber. This special structure of the MVS blended yarn effects the physical properties of the yarn; in addition, the mechanical properties of the component fibers influenced the stress, strain, bending rigidity, bending hysteresis and hairiness coefficient of MVS blended yarn with the blend ratio. Polyester decreases and cotton increases resulted in decreased physical properties. A similar polyester content increased the tencel and physical properties. Appropriate physical properties and a variety of touch expression can be realized through a correct blend ratio.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제30권2호
• /
• pp.255-265
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine the dyeing properties of four kinds of composite yams that were twisted in different processes. The composite yarns consist of acetate and functional polyester in ratio of 70 : 30. The composite yams were dyed at 100$^{circ}C$ and 125$^{circ}C$ using three types of dyes, disperse dyes for acetate fiber, PET fiber and PET-acetate blended fiber, in the three primary colors. The exhaustion($\%$) and K/S value were observed for each case. Also the effects of four different twisting processes to dyeing properties and physical properties were examined. Regardless of twisting methods, the composite yarns that were dyed at 125$^{circ}C$ had higher exhaustion($\%$) than those were dyed at 100$^{circ}C$ with all three types of dyes; However, tendency of the K/S value after reduction cleaning process was measured at 100$^{circ}C$ and the value measured 125$^{circ}C$ had a great difference with disperse dyes for acetate and dyes for PET. The difference of the K/S values of composite yarns, when dyed at 100$^{circ}C$ and 125$^{circ}C$ with disperse dyes for PET-acetate blended fiber, was almost negligible. According to twisting methods K/S values were in the following order: AP1 > AP3 > AP4> AP2. This means that AP1, treated at 220$^{circ}C$, had the highest K/S value and K/S value becomes higher as the yam is higher twisted and becomes lower as lower twisted. On the other hand, the dry shrinkage and wet shrinkage showed low shrinkage rate when the twist was high and steam setting temperature was high.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제18권4호
• /
• pp.443-451
• /
• 1994

The bending rigidity of yarn is derived in terms of physicil and mechanical characteristics of its constituent fibers and yarns structural parametrs. Theoretical analysis shows that the twist correcti on factor for the bending rigidity of yarn decreases with increase of the ratio of Young's m()dulus to the shear modulus of the constituent fibers. Also, the bending rigidity of yarn decreases as the surface helix angle of yarn increases.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제5권3호
• /
• pp.299-303
• /
• 2003

Some of historical textiles were analyzed to identify the imprinted textures on the metal remains of Haengyeup(a horse strap pendant) and Doja (a knife), which were excavated in the ruins of Hwangsung-dong, Kyungju city in the fifth century and textiles imprinted on the human bones that were excavated in the Pungnae 4th Area, Namyangju county in the sixteenth century. The results analyzed arc as follows ; It was confirmed that the imprinted textures of Haengyeup and Doja are white ramie since the structural characteristics of cellulosic bast fibers, partially projected long oval cross sections with large lumens and the imprinted textures of human bones are silk fabrics since the triangular cross sections of fibroin is showed. All of the textiles were designed in plain weaves. In the case of weaving yarns, the warp threads were thicker than the weft threads, that is, the imprinted textures of Haengyeup were measured by 1.35 mm for warp and 1.21 mm for weft, and the Doja by 1.16mm for warp and 1.11 mm for weft. In connection with the direction of the yarn twist, the Z-twist were observed in the imprinted textures of human bones, whereas it presented the S-twist in the case of Haengyeup and Doja. The warp yarns were mostly harder twisted than the weft yarns on the amounts of twist, that is, it was observed that the case of Haengyeup were amounted to 0.33 twists per centimeter for warp yarns and 0.25 twists per centimeter for weft yarns. Also it was showed 0.32 twists per centimeter for warp yarns and 0.26 twists per centimeter in the case of the textures of human bones. On the fabric counts, it was showed that the finer the yarns the higher the densities since it were $4.3{\times}5.1$ threads per sqaure centimeters and $7.6{\times}7.1$ threads per sqaure centimeters each in the case of Haengyeup and Doja, whereas it was $18.2{\times}33.7$ threads per sqaure centimeters in the case of the textures of human bones.

• 한국염색가공학회지
• /
• 제18권3호
• /
• pp.49-58
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine the effect of covering yarn's twist on mechanical properties of knitted fabrics of composite yarns with single covering process. Four yarns that were used in this study: two different composite yarns made from the four kinds of cotton and functional polyester-(Poly-A) with the ratio of 52:48, and the rest two yarns are the original cotton 100% yarn and the poly-A 100% yarn. The two kinds of composite yarns, CP1 and CP2, were processed on the single covering process. CP1 was applied on the single covering process with S-800 tpm, where Poly-A was used as covering yarn and cotton was used as core yarn. CP2 was applied on the same process as CP1 except that Poly-A had been applied on the two-for-one twisting process with S-400 tpm on the previous step. Sixteen mechanical properties of all the four knifed fabrics knitted under the same knitting conditions were measured by KES-FB system with the outer knit condition. And 3D CAD dressmaking simulations, which were driven by some of the mechanical properties, were presented. The results were as follows: CP2 had high RT values with twisting of covering yarn. CP2 also had high B, 2HB values because of higher linear density. SMD was affected rather by twisting of covering yarn than by fine hair of the cotton surface. Twisting of covering yarn made it decreasing T value and increasing W value. Dressmaking 3D CAD simulations showed that there are buckling effects on CP2 because of high bending rigidity and shear rigidity.

• 감성과학
• /
• 제11권4호
• /
• pp.449-460
• /
• 2008

중동지역은 PET 합섬직물이 이들의 평상복으로 많이 사용되고 있으며, 여성복은 차도르(Chador) 그리고 남성복은 토베(Thobe)라고 불려진다. 그리고 이들 PET 직물은 미세한 촉감특성에 따라서 수출가격의 큰 차이를 가져오며 원사의 특성과 제조공정 특성에 의해 미세한 감성촉감의 차이를 유발한다. 본 연구에서는 고가에 팔리고 있는 일본 데이진 제품과 비교하여 본 연구에서 개발된 중동 남성복 Thobe 제품의 감성특성을 분석하고 미세한 감성촉감의 원인을 규명하여 원사 및 최적 생산공정조건에 관한 연구를 수행하였다. 본 연구에서는 일본 데이진 직물 4가지를 목표품질시료로서 준비하였고, 개발을 위한 시생산제품으로 5가지 직물을 시생산하였다. 실의 굵기, 꼬임수 그리고 실의 세팅조건 및 직물의 밀도 등을 바꾸어 연축과 직축 그리고 가공축 등의 설계조건을 바꾸어 주었다. 본 연구수행의 결과 데이진 Thobe 제품의 감성특성을 원사 및 직물에서 분석하고 이들 감성특성 분석 자료를 바탕으로 사가공(絲加工)기술과 3차원 직물설계 시뮬레이션 기술을 바탕으로 감성 토베 직물의 설계기술을 확립하였다.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
• /
• 제51권4호
• /
• pp.84-107
• /
• 2018

첨모직은 표면에 짧은 파일이 나타나는 것으로 조선시대 후기에는 첨모직 깔개를 지칭하는 용어로 채담이 사용되었으며, 20세기 초에는 융전과 단통, 양탄자 등으로 불리었다. 조선 말기 이후의 여러 문헌이나 신문기사, 그리고 각종 사진자료를 통해 첨모직 깔개가 왕실뿐만 아니라 일반인도 사용하였고 당시 국내에서 제작하였다는 것이 확인되었다. 본 연구에서는 조선 말기 이후의 첨모직 깔개 6점을 실물 조사하였는데 5점은 페르시아매듭의 컷파일이며 1점은 루프파일의 기법으로 제작되었다. 컷파일의 깔개는 크기가 가로 72~98 ${\times}$ 세로 150~156cm의 직사각형이며, 나비, 사슴, 호랑이, 그리고 십장생 등의 주 무늬를 중앙에 배치하고 卍자를 가장자리에 배치하였다. 컷파일의 소재는 지경사는 모두 면사이며 지위사는 3점은 면사, 1점은 모사, 그리고 1점은 면사와 비스코스레이온의 혼섬사이다. 지위사는 4점이 S꼬임의 실 여러 올을 합쳐 Z방향으로 합사한 실을 사용했다. 파일위사는 4~6가지의 색이 사용되었는데 홍색을 제외하고 모두 염색을 하지 않은 자연색 그대로의 모섬유가 사용되었다. 그리고 S나 Z꼬임의 모사를 2올 이상 합하여 반대방향으로 꼬임을 주었는데 굵기에 맞춰 올수를 합하였다. 깔개의 위아래 가장자리는 위사를 6올 이상 넣고 남은 지경사는 몇 올씩을 한데 묶어서 정리하였으며, 좌우 가장자리는 3올 이상의 면사를 가운데 놓고 수평으로 감아 마치 둥근 막대처럼 만들며, 가장자리에서 2~3번째 지경사를 징거서 튼튼하게 고정하였다. 루프파일은 경사방향으로 고리를 만든 경첨모직이며 지경사와 지위사는 면사, 파일경사는 모사로 추정된다. 소재의 성분 분석이 가능했던 깔개는 3점으로 파일위사는 판단이 불명한 것을 제외하고 염소와 비미종 양으로 판명되어 첨모직 깔개에 다양한 종류의 동물털이 사용되었을 가능성이 있다고 본다. 본 연구에서 조사한 6점의 깔개는 1800년대 말부터 1900년대 초에 제작되었다고 추정된다. 깔개의 정확한 제작지는 확인할 수 없었으나 당시 국내에서 첨모직 깔개를 제작하고 있다는 문헌기록과 깔개의 문양의 조형성을 고려한다면 우리나라에서 제작된 것으로 본다.

• Fibers and Polymers
• /
• 제7권4호
• /
• pp.420-423
• /
• 2006

Spandex has been successfully applied on modified worsted spinning system to produce spandex core spun yam. However it's difficult to produce wool/spandex core-spun yam on woolen spinning system with the same modified device because the drafting device of the two systems is quite different. A new method is introduced to apply spandex on woolen spinning system in this paper. Core-spun yam produced in this way has good appearance and quality by comparing with normal yam. A series of experiments were carried out to study the influence of spandex drafting ratio and yam twist factor on tensile' properties and elasticity of core-spun yams. The results indicate that core-spun yam with spandex drawing ratio of 2.5 and twist factor of 13.63 has highest value of tenacity and breaking elongation.

• 전자공학회논문지S
• /
• 제34S권11호
• /
• pp.80-92
• /
• 1997

This research focuses onan efficient control method of temperature for multiple points using only one processor. For a yarn production system, the surface temperature control of heaters are very important for quality control. Therefore, we designed a temperature controller for a draw and twist machine and applied Fuzzy-PWM algorithm to the controller. If we use a processor for the temperature control of multiple points with the conventional ON/OFF control, the control performance of the system becomes poor. To overcome these problems, we developed a new Fuzzy-PWM algorithm for the adjustment of power rate to the heaters in the conventional ON/OFF control. It is shown that this algorithm has the same effects as the PID algorithm for the temperature control of each point. The proposed algorithm is robust against the production condition and environment such as the reference temperature and the thickness of yarn, since the power rate to the heater is adjusted by Fuzzy Rules derived from the values of the reference termperatureand the thickness of yarn. To obtain optimal Fuzzy rulees, the control simulations are perfodrmed through the modelling of the heater and simulation of Fuzzy rules. This algorithm is applied for the multiple pont temperature controller and showed satisfactory performance.

• Composites Research
• /
• 제15권6호
• /
• pp.30-37
• /
• 2002

꼰 섬유(twisted yarn)로 이루어진 복합재료의 탄성계수를 예측하기 위한 강성모델을 제시하였다. 이 모델은 단위 셀 구조를 바탕으로 하여 좌표변환과 구성 재료의 연성 상수를 체적 평균함으로써 복합재료의 탄성계수를 예측하는 방법이다. 해석적인 결과와 실험치와의 비교를 위하여 두 종류의 꼬임 각을 가지는 섬유로 구성된 복합재료에 대한 시험을 하였으며 인장, 압축, 전단 강도와 탄성계수를 구하였다. 이 시험편은 유리섬유 및 에폭시 수지를 사용한 RTM 성형법으로 제조하였다. 탄성계수에 대한 비교 곁과 예측치와 실험치는 비교적 잘 일치하였다. 이 모델에 의해 구해진 3차원적인 탄성계수 값은, 꼬인 섬유로 이루어진 직조형 복합재료 구조물의 구조해석을 위한 기본 물성치 입력값으로 사용될 수 있다.