• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.212-222
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• 2000

This study intends to observe how the essential elements of art have changed Human's sense of beauty extending over the whole lives as well as fashion through the investigation of Light and Rays which have played a important role in giving birthe to the new trend of art within the upheaval age of various cultures. The peculiarities of which Futurism of Italy and Rayonism of Russia including Impressionism have a great role in giving birth to a new trend of art by means of the development of science technology are like these. Impressionists looked for the origin of the subtle harmony in nature within changes of sun-rays. The special feature of Impressionism paintings was to express the line of vision diversely according to changes of light rather than to focus on the line of vision with clear outlines. Henceforth, Neo-Impressionism which developed Impressionism more systematically leaded changes of Light and Rays more systematically and scientifically and maintained Divisionnisme techniques which extends to lead towards color and light through dividing and juxtaposing color. In the early 20th century Futurists tried to express dynamism through the interpenetration of light and revive color and light through the division techniques of color and persist an artificial light like eletricity rather than a natural light. Rayonism of Russia which was ifluenced from Impressionism and Futurism maintained intersection of reflecting rays which emerges from an object of things more deeply. This pursuit of light and rays also light and rays also appears as it is in modern fashion. First, it is the fashion which applied sun-rays persisted by Impressionists and expressed colors which show differently according to direction of light. Second, it is the fashion design which re-analyzed what Futurists expressed artificial light and rays. Third, it is the design which expressed Divisionnisme theory persisted by Impressionists and Futurists into fashion as it is and was made of being divided the form of glittering light into small dots. Fourth, it is the fashion design which applied Rayonists'work which applied intersection of reflected rays. Like this, it is aproved that the pursuit of light and rays expresses as it is in modern fashion of the 21st.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.1-17
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to discover the source of the force that has continously pertained it through the years. Following the flow of the times, the Chanel Style has transformed and developed through the styles of the sporty look, the russian look, the gar onne look, the romantic look, and the classic look. Not only has Chanel created classic designs that transcend time, but she has created clothing that is very feminine and full of wit in the evening wear. She has also innovated the fields of textile, garment cutting, details, and accessories. The Chanel Style was expressed by simplicity, funtionality, sensuality, and amusement. Simplicity to Chanel was an important element that expresses both youth and casual characteristics and the use of jersy and the color black has resulted in a functional simplicity. For the active, new woman, not only a funtional beauty but also a subtle, moderate, and a unobtrusive sauve sensibility is expressed in the Chanel Style. Also pleasure can be observed in the costume jewelry that gives one enjoyment.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.152-166
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• 2009

By virtue of the development of mass media, the cinema, the composite space art taking the visual and auditory elements together, exhibits the actual life of the realities, thereby having a mutually close relationship to social, cultural and economic fields and continuing to generate the fashion code as well as reflecting the image of the times. Especially, fashion style in movies delivers their image and atmosphere and becomes the means for containing the personality, spiritual world and inner thinking of the characters in the movie and inducing its plot. Therefore, this study was intended to make clear that fashion fuses and shares with a diversity of genres such as movies and the like, becomes the cultural model that proceeds to create a new culture in relation to daily life and induces and presents the trend of contemporary fashion. For this purpose, this study attempted to analyze fashion style in the movie. Lolita is the fiction published by the Russian?American writer Vladimir Nabokov($1899{\sim}1977$) in 1954. It is the fiction that portrays the unethical love between Humbert, a middleaged man, and Lolita, a girl in her 10s. It was cinematized by the director Stanley Kubrick for the first time in 1962 and revived by the movie director Adrian Lyne in 1997. The character of Lolita has a younger look like a girl and looks immature in the movie directed by the movie director Stanley Kubrick and the movie director Adrian Lyne. But the character of Lolita has the commonality that she showed an incomplete female image of having a sexually freewheeling thinking. Thereby, this study sought to prove that the created fashion style of the character in the film not only became the clue to enable us to know the time and space background in the film but also helped the film develop effectively by performing a role of portraying the character in the movie. And it attempted to present that it becomes both the foundation for leading the fashion trend shown in contemporary fashion and the code of mass culture. Fashion style of Lolita in the movie appears to be reflected diversely in mass culture as well as fashion style in the contemporary times.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.7
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• pp.195-218
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• 2000

This study investigates the characteristics of European knitted works from a historical perspective. Specifically, this study deals with the following research topics: 1) the origin and development of knitting. 2) the characteristics of knitting industry according to the change of times, 3) the comparison of local knitting patterns and cultures. 4) 7he symbolic meaning of the designs in the knitted works and theire functions. This research is barred on the survey of the relevant literature and photographs. The results of the study are summarized as follows. 1) The introduction of knitted works was closely connected with the climatic and socio-economic conditions of the places of the origin. Knitted work developed mostly in Northern Europe, a cold area, and the barren, mountainous coastal areas where people frequently used woolen materials for clothes. 2) In ancient times, abstract and geometric patterns have developed in Europe under the influence of Arabian knitted work. Middle Ages saw the flourishing of Arabian knitted works representing the authority of the church. In early modern times, the knitted work assumed the wealth of the royal families and the nobles. But afterward it was gradually Popularized among the middle classes. Knitting was then regarded as one of the women's major cultural activities. However, recently in the interwar periods. the knitting industry did not flourish and the knitted works came to serve merely as comfort goods by political urge. Knitted works were introduced in Korea around 1870 (the 7th or 8th year of king Kojong era) by Catholic missionaries and they started to be made by machine in 1917. 3) As for the propagation of the knitted work into Europe, there are three routes estimated. The traditional knitting patterns of local areas and their characteristics are summed up as follows : (1) England Guernseys are thick dark blue wool, whereas Jerseys are thinner and of various colors. The knitted shawls of Shetland are world-famous for their fine, lace-like texture that they can be through a wedding-ring. The knitted work of Fair Isle shows several distinctive features, such as the use of no more than two colors, patterns with diagonal lines. symmetry within the patterns, the prominent OXO patterns, and horizontal bands of patterning. The representative knitted work of Aran is Aran sweater made for fishermen to developed from guernseys of Scotland. (2) Scandinavian countries are distinguished from other countries by their conservative but creative cultural tradition. Their knitting patterns are characterized by small geometric figures such as dots, triangles, squares, rhombuses, and crosses used often with stars and roses. Scandinavian knitting is also salient for its vertical stripes and simple motifs repeating at short intervals. (3) Baltic area : The Latvian and Lithuania stockings have very ornate patterns. Many of the Estonian knit stockings and mittens share designs. Komi was well-known for its symmetric diamond pattern. Komi patterns include colored stripes, borders of pattern and all-over designs of complex diagonals. (4) Balkan area : In Yugoslavia, the patterns of roses, leaves and flowers were used for stockings, gloves and leggings. Greek knitting resembled southern Russian knitting, which utilized light colored patterns with dark colors for a background. Turkish patterns are symmetric vertically or horizontally. 4) The traditional knitting patterns net only carried symbolic meanings but also served as means of communication. First of all, patterns had incantatory meanings. Patterns also represented Power or authenticity Patterns were symbolic of one's social standing, too. The colors, motifs and their arrangements were very important features symbolizing one's social position or family line. People often communicated by certain pieces of knitted work or patterns.