This study examine closely conditions of costume between the Modernized period and Liberation with newspaper materials. Because newspaper generally appear society conditions in those days on rapid and across-the boad basis. The Modernized period is extremely change among history of costum (ordinance prohibiting top knots, allowance of foreign clothes putting on). Because this change have been spontaneously not by internal desired but Western input by the strong nation of imperialism to enclose Chosun, they was accepted by the general public later under the rule of Japaneses Imperialism. Consequently, study of costume play an important part periods between the Japanese annexation of Korea and Liberation. This study apply to newspaper characteric for costume, and closely examine an important costum condition of those days next time, and present costume material in those days that composed the account catalog appeared periods between the first publication(1920) of the Dong A II Bo, and in the year 1945, it is as follows. 1. Foreign clothes of men generally accept the general public on look at from form change, in the 1920's had come short Jackets and narrow throusers into fashion, in the 1930's had come trousers of generous waist band with broads shoulder and long Jackets. Catalog of Major clothes is as follows; Spring coat, Jacket, Vest, Shirt, etc. While pants had come trousers into fashion 2. Functional characteric of Foreign clothes was the possible acceptance of women's foreign clothes. It relate with much discussion to improve Korean development in those days and substitute foreign clothes for Korean clothes because of institence in those days to improve functional clothes life. 3. An improvement women's Korean clothes generally take aim at women's nipple liberation, substitute vest waist for skirt waist, appear seamless one-piece skirt of shade length, and long dress length of Jacket. 4. Children's clothes give an account of functional and sanitary conditions, handling method, washing method. 5. Clothes materials give account of foreign clothes material, artificial silk, furs, cotton fabrics, and etc. 6. Clothes management give an account of washing, keeping method, washing method of foreign clothes, and keeping of furs. 7. The hair generaly had come short hair into fashion in men's case, while accounts on long hair fashion of foreign nation effect in case of women. 8. Describing on beauty care manage primary beauty care, reform, plastic operation, and shade beauty care. Ideal beauty care deal with natural and dignified buauty care. 9. Accesaries (hat, handbag, handkerchief, gloves) change with fashion of clothes, it rapid more than clothes fashion. 10. On encouragement of abolition of white clothes and putting on dyeing clothes, because of economic defect of white clothes, psychology and beauty consequently, white clothes is on the rise abolition. In national level almost substitute dyeing clothes for control and improvement of people of all social standings consequently, dress and its ornaments conditions in those days analyzed account of Dong-A II Bo accept the foreign clothes that introduced internal country of the whole century, and substitute dyeing for white clothes. Costume condition in those days appear the mixed conditions of Korean clothes and Foreign clothes. In the 1920's is the first consideration dress and its ornaments form of Korean clothes. As later goes on foreign is given much weight in the whole clothes life. Account of foreign clothes managemental ways appear in the 1920's, while those facts prove the point that appeared the account that always dealed with concrete content of foreign fashion in the 1930's.
On the purpose to suggest an advanced scheme in assessing the domestic wheat quality, this paper reviewed the inspection systems of wheat in major wheat producing countries as well as the quality criteria which are being used in wheat grading and classification. Most wheat producing countries are adopting both classifications of class and grade to provide an objective evaluation and an official certification to their wheat. There are two main purposes in the wheat classification. The first objectives of classification is to match the wheat with market requirements to maximize market opportunities and returns to growers. The second is to ensure that payments to glowers aye made on the basis of the quality and condition of the grain delivered. Wheat classes has been assigned based on the combination of cultivation area, seed-coat color, kernel and varietal characteristics that are distinctive. Most reputable wheat marketers also employ a similar approach, whereby varieties of a particular type are grouped together, designed by seed coat colour, grain hardness, physical dough properties, and sometimes more precise specification such as starch quality, all of which are genetically inherited characteristics. This classification in simplistic terms is the categorization of a wheat variety into a commercial type or style of wheat that is recognizable for its end use capabilities. All varieties registered in a class are required to have a similar end-use performance that the shipment be consistent in processing quality, cargo to cargo and year to year, Grain inspectors have historically determined wheat classes according to visual kernel characteristics associated with traditional wheat varieties. As well, any new wheat variety must not conflict with the visual distinguishability rule that is used to separate wheats of different classes. Some varieties may possess characteristics of two or more classes. Therefore, knowledge of distinct varietal characteristics is necessary in making class determinations. The grading system sets maximum tolerance levels for a range of characteristics that ensure functionality and freedom from deleterious factors. Tests for the grading of wheat include such factors as plumpness, soundness, cleanliness, purity of type and general condition. Plumpness is measured by test weight. Soundness is indicated by the absence or presence of musty, sour or commercially objectionable foreign odors and by the percentage of damaged kernels that ave present in the wheat. Cleanliness is measured by determining the presence of foreign material after dockage has been removed. Purity of class is measured by classification of wheats in the test sample and by limitation for admixtures of different classes of wheat. Moisture does not influence the numerical grade. However, it is determined on all shipments and reported on the official certificate. U.S. wheat is divided into eight classes based on color, kernel Hardness and varietal characteristics. The classes are Durum, Hard Red Spring, Hard Red Winter, Soft Red Winter, Hard White, soft White, Unclassed and Mixed. Among them, Hard Red Spring wheat, Durum wheat, and Soft White wheat are further divided into three subclasses, respectively. Each class or subclass is divided into five U.S. numerical grades and U.S. Sample grade. Special grades are provided to emphasize special qualities or conditions affecting the value of wheat and are added to and made a part of the grade designation. Canadian wheat is also divided into fourteen classes based on cultivation area, color, kernel hardness and varietal characteristics. The classes have 2-5 numerical grades, a feed grade and sample grades depending on class and grading tolerance. The Canadian grading system is based mainly on visual evaluation, and it works based on the kernel visual distinguishability concept. The Australian wheat is classified based on geographical and quality differentiation. The wheat grown in Australia is predominantly white grained. There are commonly up to 20 different segregations of wheat in a given season. Each variety grown is assigned a category and a growing areas. The state governments in Australia, in cooperation with the Australian Wheat Board(AWB), issue receival standards and dockage schedules annually that list grade specifications and tolerances for Australian wheat. AWB is managing "Golden Rewards" which is designed to provide pricing accuracy and market signals for Australia's grain growers. Continuous payment scales for protein content from 6 to 16% and screenings levels from 0 to 10% based on varietal classification are presented by the Golden Rewards, and the active payment scales and prices can change with market movements.movements.
If we are to define that the traditional costume is a comprehensive expression of the culture, thoughts, and arts of a country, it is needless to say that the traditional costume would have always reflected the social and cultural aspects of the times. In order words, the cultural contemplation of a certain people at some point the history is only possible when we observe the distintive features of the costume worn by the people of respective times. Although the Korean people had the native costume of its own from the times of the Ancient Choson to the Three Kingdoms of Koguryo, Paekche, and Silla, the Chinese influence on Korean traditional costume became somewhat pronounced ever since the Silla strenghtened the political ties with the T'ang dynasty in China, and it came to a climax when the dual structure in Korean native costume, being compounded with the Chinese touch, continued to be prevailed from the era of the Unified Silla to the Koryo and throughout the succeeding Yi dynasty, thereby copying the typical aspects of Chinese pattern in clothing and dresses worn by the ruling classes, namely the goverment officials including the Kings. Therefore, it is our aim to study the pattern of Chinese influence on our traditional costume, as well as social and cultural aspects by way of contrasting and comparing our official outfit system, which had been developing in dualism since the era of the Unified Silla, with that of China, and to trace in part the Korean traditional costume. In comparing our traditional official outfit system with that of China, we have basically concentrated on the comparison of the official outfit systems during the periods of the Three Kingdoms, the Koryo, and The Yi dynasty with that of corresponding era of Chinese history, namely the dynasties of T'ang, Sung, and Ming, and followed the documentary records for the comparison. Koreans had fallen into the practice of worshipping the powerful in China and begun to adopt the culture and institutions of the T'ang dynasty since the founding of the Unified Silla. From this time forth, Korean people started to wear the clothes in Chinese style. The style of clothing during the period of the Koryo Kingdom was deeply influenced by that of the T'ang and Sung dynasties in China, and it was also under the influenced of the Yuan dynasty(dynasty established by the Mongols) at one time, because of the Koryo's subordinative position to the Yuan. At the close of the Koryo dynasty, the King Kongmin ordered the stoppage on the use of 'Ji-Joung', the name of an era for the Yuan dynasty, in May of the eighteenth year of his rule in order to have the royal authority recognized by a newly rising power dominating the Chinese continent, the Mind. Kind Kongmin presented a memorial, repaying a kindness to the Emperor T'aejo of the Ming dynasty in celebration of his enthronement and requested that the emperor choose an official outfit, thereby the Chinese influence being converted to that of the Ming. As a matter of course, the Chinese influence deepened all the more during the era of the Yi dynasty coupled with the forces of the toadyic ideology of worshipping the China, dominant current of the times, and the entire costume, from the imperial crown and robe to the official outfit system of government officials, such as official uniforms, ordinary clothes, sacrificial robes, and court dresses followed the Chinese style in their design. Koreans did not have the opportunity of developing the official outfit system on its own and they just wore the official outfit designated on separate occasions by the emperors of China, whenever the changes in dynasty occurred in the continent. Especially, the Chinese influence had greatly affected in leading our consciousness on the traditional costume to the consciousness of the class and authority. Judging from the results, Koreans had been attaching weight to the formulation of the traditional outfit system for the ruling classes in all respective times of the history and the formulation of the system was nothing more than the simple following of the Chinese system.