• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.5
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• pp.113-140
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• 1981

"Jung Ri Eui Kwae" is the book, illustrated and recorded with court coutesy and manners during the King, Jung Jo's honoured coming to his own father's royal tomb "Hyun Ryung Won" of Sa Do Seh Ja(The Crown Prince to be mourned) with his own mother Hae Kyung Koong Mrs. Hong. According to this book, we can see the costumes and its ornaments of the civil and military officials and also of Yu Ryung(the maden court musician) and Dong Ki (a young Kisaeng girl) during serving at Bong Soo Dang bangquet celebrating his own mother's 60th birthday anniversary. It is interesting to review once more the royal ceremonies representing the portion of the costumes and its ornaments in the 18th century of the Yi Dynasty, Yung-Jung Jo era that is to be thought the reform period in almost every field of social system.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.173-184
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• 1998

The results of this theis are as follows. As regards the chronological transformation of the royal court dancing which is characterized by the variousness and colorfulness of the old-fashioned dancing suit, in the pre-dynasty of triple alliance among Shinla, Bakjae, and Goguryeo, the traditional ritual stood on ceremony through the ceremonial dancing in support of a religional rite. But while the Shinla, Bakjae, and GoGuRyeo dynasty began to excercise the systematic royal control over people, each royal court employed the professional ritual dancers; and it encouraged them to dance on the variety of ceremony on behalf of a rite and celebration. Of course, except for that of Shinla dynasty, it is not so easy to find out the historical record for the evidence which can back up these facts. As representatives of a ritual dancing, the religional ceremony of Shinla dynasty brought about the orientation of GumGee-Mu, MooAe-Mu, Saseon-Mu, Seonyu-Ak, and Cheoyong-Mu.

• (The)Study of the Eastern Classic
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• no.69
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• pp.83-114
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• 2017

The purpose of this article is to analyze the standings of working-level officials belonging to Jongbusi (Court of the Royal Clan) holding the rank of "jeong" and below between the 18th and mid-19th Century. Jongbusi, which was headed by a Grade-3 official, was in charge of the compilation of royal genealogy and supervision of royal relatives. During the late Joseon Period, its officials were composed of its chief, jeong, jubu (Grade-6 official), and jikjang (Grade-7 official). By 1864, it was incorporated into Jongchinbu (Office of the Royal Relatives). Jongbusi nangcheong seonsaengan (Register of Staff Officials at the Court of the Royal Clan), which is preserved at the Jangseogak Archives of the Academy of Korean Studies, lists the officials who served at the office between 1794 and its incorporation into Jongchinbu in 1864. The register also includes the officials' ranks, names, DOBs, family clans, their ranks in the offices they were transferred from, their ranks in the office they were transferred to, etc. Those interested view it as a precious relic that provides valuable information on the officialdom of the dynasty. A majority of the officials who served at Jongbusi were those who passed the higher civil service examination. Many of them at the level of jikjang were those who passed the licentiate examination. Their designation as an official was part of the "muneum" system, which granted official posts to descendants of those who accomplished a distinguished service for the country or served as a high-ranking official. They were those transferred from equal or lower positions in another office. Many of jubu-level officials of Jongbusi were those transferred from honorable and important posts of other offices or local administrative offices. Many of jikjang-level officials of Jongbusi were those who previously served as dosa (assistant officials) at Uigeumbu (Bureau of Crime Investigation) headed by a Grade-1 official. The officials' transfer to an office with a lower position like Jongbusi appears to have been for the provision of placing them in working-level positions rather than letting them remain in positions only carrying an honorary title. As for the transfer of officials of Jongbusi to other offices, many of those with the rank of jeong were transferred to lower positions. Supposedly it was because not many Grade-3 positions were vacant. Many of them were transferred to honorable and important posts. Some of them were also transferred to positions at local government offices, supposedly to avoid an excess of personnel at the central government. Those at the level of jubu or jikjang of Jongbusi were transferred to equal or higher posts in other offices. Particularly, most of those holding the position of jikjang (Grade-7) were transferred to higher posts. The family clan that produced the largest number (10%) of Jongbusi officials was the Jeonju Yi Clan, which produced the largest number of those who passed the higher civil service examination. It was also found that the top 20 family clans produced about half of the entirety of Jongbusi officials. According to the aforesaid Jongbusi nangcheong seonsaengan, about 90% of the cases of promotion of Jongbusi officials occurred after the revision of Seonwon boryak (Royal Genealogy of the Joseon Dynasty). It is speculated that the supervision of royal family members, one of the two leading functions assigned to Jongbusi, was suspended in the late Joseon Period. The relevant function does not appear even in chronicles pertaining to the Joseon Dynasty. The reason being had something to do with the sharp decrease in the number of royal family members during the reign of King Injo (r. 1623-1649). Their number was decreased to the extent that royal ceremonies could not be adequately carried out. Naturally, the meaning of supervising royal family members faded. Witnessing such a sorry state of the royal family, Heungseon Daewongun, King Gojong's father who served as the regent, incorporated Jongbusi into Jongchinbu in an effort to enhance the status and authority of the royal family.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.89-100
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• 2018

The stylobate for expanding the external stage area was the most frequently installed installment out of the installments installed for royal court ceremonies. The stylobate was installed for various ceremonies such as funeral rites, ancestral rites, customary formalities, state examination, feasts for celebrating a honored guest of the court, queen's silkworm cultivating ceremony, heir appointment, the presentation of honorary titles for the king or queen in honor of their merits, and entertainment of foreign dignitaries. The exact period stylobates came to be used for the play stage. The stylobate consists of the 紅座板, 屯太木, 竹欄間, 足木, and the 層橋. Depending on the 足木, the substructure of the stylobate, the stylobate could be divided into the 長足木, 中足木, 短足木, 平足木 type. The detail structure of the stylobate changed in form from the jokmok and duntaemok that appeared until the time of King Seonjo, into the 長屯太木, 短屯太木, and the 短短屯太木 during the time of King Heonjong. With the introduction of the 中足木, materials began to become more segmented and the structure stronger. According to existing records, while the height of the stylobate was not significantly high prior to King Seonjo's reign, the 十四層雲橋 and the 十三層層橋 introduced during the time of Emperor Gojong was designed to reflect his rank in external ceremonies while the eight story step bridge was exhibited in internal ceremonies to reflect the rank of Queen Mother Sinjeong. From here, we can deduce that the fourteen and thirteen story cloud bridges representing the king was of a higher grade than the eight story step bridge which represented the queen mother. Finishing by adding boards to the lower part of the stylobates began to appear in the time of King Seonjo. During King Heonjong's reign, the lower finish became gentrified with a thin board called 修粧板, and yeomupan 廉隅板 for decorating the edges of the stylobates were installed. Such style of finishing the lower part of the stylobate with boards mostly appeared in elaborate feasts 進饌 and celebrations 進宴 within the royal court 內宴. The stylobates appeared to have served not only practical purposes such as expanding the stage area, but also as installments which realize the authority and prestige of the royal crown. They were installed according to the purpose of the ceremony and the rank of the participant. In short, stylobates became established during King Seonjo's reign, became segmented and gentrified during King Heonjong's reign, and began to take height variations during Emperor Gojong's reign to reflect the rank and authority of the king and queen mother. As such, it can be considered another characteristic of Joseon Dynasty architecture.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.80-95
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• 2012

This study covers the literature of theoretical backgrounds of royal ceremonial hair styles during Chosun Dynasty and demonstrates reproduction works of those hair styles reinterpreted in modern methods. As for the Chosun royal hair styles for ceremonies, there are Daesoo, Gudoomi, and Euyoumi for a royal queen, royal concubines, and royal lady attendants of Nae Myung Boo, department of general affairs of the royal court. These hair styles represents well that Chosun Dynasty kept its own class symbols through hair styles, which is valuable cultural resources of Korean traditional beauties. This study compares the new reproduction works of Daesoo, Gudoomi, and Euyoumi with existing literature pieces and related photos for clear understanding of these traditional hair styles. This study aims to activate the relevant researches into Korean traditonal hair styles, their reproduction methods and applicable usages in Modern Korea as well as useful data for them.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.382-393
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• 2018

This study investigated Balgis (the record of the court)in the Joseon Dynasty pertaining to table settings for Sangsik (the meals for the dead). Sangsik are the records of daily meals for kings and key figures. In this study,14 pieces of Sangsikbalgi from 1890 to 1920, including two pieces from an unspecified period, were investigated to determine the composition and types of daily meals in the court. Meals consisted of a minimum of 10 dishes to a maximum 21 dishes, which basically included rice and soup. 'Jochi' was the term to refer to jjigae (stew) in the court. In Sangsikbalgi Bokgi, Gamjang, Jochi, Jjim, Suk, and Cho were all considered Jochi, which were recorded before Jeok or Jeon, where the side dishes were listed after rice and soup. This corresponded with the record of the royal tables in Wonhaeng-Ulmyo-Jeongri-Uigwe (圓行乙卯整理儀軌), in which Jochi included Jabjangjeon, Bokgi, Jabjang, and Cho. Whitebait and fruit, which are used as ingredients for Tang (soup) and Jeon, showed seasonal characteristics however, no other observed dishes showed seasonal variability. Additionally, beef and internal organs of animals were frequently used,regardless of seasons. When dishes in Sangsik were classified into basic dishes and additional cheop dishes (side dishes) based on Siuijeonseo (are recipe book of unknown authorship written in the late Joseon Dynasty), from five to nine Cheop dishes were set on the table, with seven being most common. Further comprehensive study needs to be conducted through undisclosed documents and private collections. Moreover, additional study of Judarye (anestral rites during the day for the royal) and cooking methods that were not investigated in detail in this study are needed.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.29-44
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• 2019

A major performance stage carpenter, Jang Insang led performance stages from the 1719 Sukjong Royal Banquet and was confirmed by historical records to be the first craftsman. Lee Wandeuk led the Hwaseong Fortress performance stages of the Jeongjo period and Gichuk Jinchan performance stages of the Sunjo period. The carpenter techniques he used during the Jeongjo period were succeeded to the Sunjo period. Ahn Sungil was the head craftsman who led the performance stages of Jagyeongjeon Jinjak, Muja Jinjak, and Gichuk Jinchan of the Sujo period, under which the foundation for court palace performances was laid. The progression of major carpenters includes Jang Insang of the Sukjong period, Jeon Yoochu of the Yeongjo period, Ahn Sugil of the Sunjo period, Yoon Seoksin of the Heonjong period, Kim Yoonsik of the Gojong period, Lee Jongyoon, Kim Soongil, Seo Sangmook, and Han Sujoon. In addition, the Major Repair of Injeongjeon Hall (1857) of the Cheoljong period was the most important palace construction project for transferring the carpenters' skills. Through this project, Ahn Sungil of the Sunjo period, Kim Myeonggap, Yoon Seoksin of the Heonjong period, Kwon Deuknyang, and Kim Sungil of the Gojong period were able to interact with each other. That is, this major repair project of Injeongjeon Hall reflected the major carpenters' best techniques through performance stage construction, showing the progression of Ahn Sungil, Yoon Seokshin, and Kim Sungil, who led the constructions of Gichuk Jinchan of the Sunjo period (1829), Mushin Jinchan of the Heonjong period (1848), and Jeonghae Jinchan of the Gojong period (1887), the most impressive performance stages of the late Joseon period. The carpenters of the court performance stages participated in important construction projects of the royal palace, reflecting the superior technical skills of the carpenters in the construction of court palace performance stages. The carpenters who played a leading role in the construction of performance stages were able to interact with one another and transfer their excellent technical skills, providing the driving force that allowed court performance stages to blossom into splendid and high-quality court stages in the late Joseon Dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.4
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• pp.73-87
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• 2000

The court dancing suit, so-called "JeongJae(呈才) suit," has been worn by court dancers on the occasion of the royal court′s feasts or festivals such as auspicious events of a country, court banquets, and parties or receptions for national quests from foreign countries. There are 53 kinds of court dancing suits, ranging from the age of the ancient Three Kingdoms to the period of Chosun Dynasty. The court dancing suits are divided into two styles : DangAk-JeongJae(唐樂呈才) style and HyangAk-feongjae(鄕樂呈才) style, depending on dancing styles. Since the court dancing suits in the age of the ancient Three Kingdoms and Koryo Dynasty have already been studied previously, this study discussed the change of dancing suit styles created in the latter period of Chosun Dynasty, such as YukHwaDae(六花隊), MuSanHyang(舞山香) and ChoonAengJeon(春鶯), and the thought of Yin-Yang and five elements(陰陽五行思想) that the colors of the court dancing suits imply. The purpose of this study is to understand the thoughts contained in the ancient suits as well as their styles in order to inherit and uphold our traditional culture properly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.29
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• pp.171-182
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• 1996

This thesis is concerned with the study of the court attire the typical attire of the ju-dicial world in a point of time that more than 100 years have passed since the introduction of the modern judical system. In recognition of the fact that compiled data of the official uni-form or attire in Korea are insufficient this study placed its signification on the provision of information with focus on attire. As a result of studying court attire in Korea the conclusion was made as follows: Firstly Official attires in Yi Dynasty were divided by wearing embroidered insignia on the breast and the back of an official robe ac-cordint to court rank as well as by wearing Sa-mo in wadded clothes of Dan-ryeong and attaching all sorts of appurtenances including bands and shoes The Minister of Justice was equipped with Ho-pyo Dae-sa-heon equipped with Hae-chi the mayor of Seoul equipped with Un-an In the era of the Kng Young-jo the minister of Justice had no change in its of-ficial robe but the mayer(Pan-yun) of Seoul (Han-sung-bu) had Un-an(wild geese in clouds) changed into Un-hak In the King Ko-jog era the minister of Justice had Ho-pyo changed into Ssang-ho and the mayor of Seoul had Un-hak changed into Ssng-hak on embroideved insignia on the breast and back of an official robe. Laws and regulations concerning court attire began with the In-judgement Full-dress Uni-form Requlation for official-level Clerical Staff below the ordinary staff the Issue No. 14 of the Royal Ordinance in 1906 provided as $\ulcorner$the matter cincerning the Dress Regulation of the Tribunal staff of the Cho-sun Government-General$\lrcorner$the Issue No. 222 of the Royal Ordi-nance in 1911 and changed into$\ulcorner$the Regu-lation on the Dress of Judge Prosecutor At-torney and Law Count Clerk$\lrcorner$the Issue No. 12 of the Supreme Court Rule in 1953 affter the establishment of Korean Government since emancipation from the Japanese rule and into $\ulcorner$the Regulation concerning the Court Attire of Judge and law Court Clerical Staff$\lrcorner$the Issue No. 516 of the Supreme Court Rule in 1966. The judicial system in Korea is the system introduced from the foreign country rather than autogenously developed. And it came to pass through the Japanese colonial period it the beginning that it took root in Korea n was not stabilized in harmony with our native tradition. Accordingly the attare regulation in the judicial system took root in our society by accepting the Japanese attire regulation as it was and judical officials have come to wear the count attire similar to that of the Japanese imperialist era due to its influence though Korean independent goverment was established together with liberation form the Japanese rule. The more regrettable thing is that the current court attire has maintained the form greatly influenced by the U. S. court attire. Fortunately as the judicial circles have recently raised their voices for change in the court attire it has been told that the forma-tion of a meeting for a new court attire has been under way. The birth of the court attire into Which our tradition is sublimated is expected. This study end up with thinking that the must Korean thing is the most global thing in this era that people in the world are clamoring for globalization.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.41
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• pp.63-93
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• 1998

This thesis focuses on how the dancing suit frequently used in the Korean royal court has been chronologically changed to that of the modern times. It also aims at how the implicit symbols shown in the royal court dancing suit are related to the traditional concepts and thoughts on Lunar-Solar-Five-Natural-Elements(Eum-Yang-Oh-Haeng). The results of this thesis are as follows. In the historical period of Koryo dynasty, the Buddhists religional ceremonies of YeonDueng-Hoi and PalGwan-Hoi favoured a ritual dancing of DangAakJeongJae originated from the old ancient China, and at the same time it also employed HyangAakJeongJae of Sin-la dynasty. Especially, the DangAakJeongJae contained the kinds of SooSeon-Dyo, Soo-YeonJang, PoTae-Aak, OhYa-ng-Seon, and YeonHwaDae-Mu; and the Hyang-AakJeongJae dealt with Moo-Go and Aa-Bak.