• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.16
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• pp.221-229
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• 1991

This thesis aims at reviewing the wearing aspect and formation of Chosun ceremonial dresses for meal and finding out the thought reflected by them from the standpoint that dresses themselves should be taken as one of the phenomena in culture. That is men's ceremonial costumes and confucian costumes of the royal family and the gentry family in Chosun is reviewed focused on the formation and the wearing aspect of Po, Which is a kind of them. And in the context of the phase of the times. I also considered the thoughts reflected on the clothes such as confucianism, Ying & Yang Theory, and the symbol and the thoughts of patterns in relation to the clothes. Confucian influence was the main force for the Chosun prohibitions for clothes. The major reasons for the prohibitions for clothes were as follows. First, they reflected confucian Chung myoung chooui(the principle that everything should be where it belongs). That is the prohibitions for clothes were used in the means to maintain feudalistic social order. influenced by social rank system. Second, they reflected confucian ethics in the means to recover social disciplines with the maintenance of traditional customs. This shows well in the restriction of luxurious items in dressing included the prohibitions for clothes. Third, they reflected Chosun's toadysm toward China. With the influx of Chinese style of dressing then government even changed the style of uniforms for public officials into that of Chinese resulting in dual styles of dressing. Ying & Yan Theory greatly affected the colors of Korean clothes and reflected toadysm toward China. too. The theory was embodied by prohibition of such colors for clothes as white, gray, and jade green. I reviewed the twelve patterns on Myunpok, Ten-Longivity patterns and Four-Gracious plants patterns in order to analyze the symbolism and thoughts of patterns for clothes. Nansam, Dopo, and Shimui worn by confucian scholars ensures that those clothes bears confucianism and philosopical factors. As shimui was worn by many people it appears in Chosun scholars' studies and a Chinese book called "Yeki". I reviewed the origin, procession, and ornaments of four ceremonial clothes and tried to find out the confucianism in them. First, In Kwanrei (the coming-of-age ceremony) remained ancestor worship and respect for manners. The clothes for this ceremony granted the rights and responsibilities of and adult to the wearer. The royal Kwanreipok had different dresses for each rank. As Samgapok, the crown prince wore Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for the first ritual, Wonryukwan and Kangsapo for the second, and Myunrukwan and Konpok for the third. The rank of the King's grandson was lower than the crown prince's. This example shows that Chosun people respected manners and thought the basic confucianism "God and people are equal." at the Royal court. Second, as Honreipok(wedding gown), the crown prince wore Myunrukwan and Konpok for Daereipok, Wonyukwan and Kangsapo for Napjing and Tongwoo, and Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for Chekbinui. But common people were allowed to wear an official outfit only for wedding in the means of congratulation on the most important day of their life. Wedding gowns which reflected Ying and Yang Theory emphasized the thought that union of a man and a wife is the most important event in life. Third, Sangrei(funeral) was the last ritual of a human being to send off the deceased. The mourning dresses expressed lamentation of the people left behind. Five-Dress-System for each the relative degree of familarity showed the solemnity and formality, which represented the formality of confucianism and ancestor worship. I reviewed the mourning dresses by dividing them into royal, Yangban's, and commons. They were featured by the fact that there was only one style for every walk of life. It is construed that anyone in mourning can wear the same clothes since he feels the same way regardless of his social rank. Fourth, Chereipok(sacrificial rite dresses) had different styles for each social rank. The King wore Myunpok(Kuryumyun and Kujangpok) were recorded to be worn first in the fourth year of King Taecho's ruling. The crown prince wore Palryumyun and Chiljangpok for sacrificial rite dress which was finally settled when King Sejong was in power. Common people wore Dopo, Shimui for the rite dress in the beginning of the Chosun Era and wore Dopo after Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592. In conclusion, confucianism played the main role in ceremonial dress system of Chosun and that was because it emphasized the ethics of action in life, which was different from other religions. It is true that cause-oriented thoughts and Chung myoung chooui in confucianism drove all ceremonies to extreme manners, discriminating the people who belonged to the lower social rank, and resulting in extremly luxurious life style. However, they also created a unique trend and clothes culture in the Chosun Era. I wish that this thesis provieds important information and direction for furthur studies in the future.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.1
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• pp.90-119
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to investigate the significance of Buddhist stone art in the cultural zone of Mt. Bukhan. Mt. Bukhan witnessed the prevalence of Buddhist culture in and around it since the introduction of Korean Buddhism and served as the center of Buddhist culture in the nation, where new Buddhist temples continued to be built from the Three Kingdoms Period to the Joseon Period. Of the characteristics of its Buddhist culture, it is very noteworthy that the construction of military temples in and around it in the latter half of Joseon supported the function of Buddhist temples as basic places of worship. These military temples were closely related to the mountain's geopolitical location, traffic routes, and position in the national defense system-- its mountain fortress was an important defense facility. The stone art works of Mt. Bukhan can be categorized into various types, including stone stupas, stone pagodas, rock-carved Buddhas, stone Buddhas, towers and monuments (stone monuments), stone lanterns, flagpole supports, and rock-carved sarira pagodas. There are diverse types of stone art left on the mountain. As for its period characteristics, it is clear that the Buddhist art of Silla spread even to the Gyeonggi region, and that most of the works of stone art were created during the first half of Goryeo and the latter half of Joseon. Starting in Goryeo, the Buddhist temples of the mountain maintained close relations with the royal court by operating as the royal buddhist shrine for the royal family. In the latter part of Joseon, the construction of the Bukhan mountain fortress became the most important opportunity to produce stone art. As for the distribution of the stone artwork, it was usually created in the west part of the mountain from Unified Silla to the first half of Goryeo and in the southern and eastern parts of the mountain from the latter half of Goryeo to the latter half of Joseon. It is estimated that central Buddhist temples of the mountain changed due to Silla's military goal of advancing toward the west coast along the Han River in its early days and the construction of the Bukhan mountain fortress in the latter half of Joseon to protect the capital city. Finally, the stone art of Mt. Bukhan holds very high significance in art history because various types of stone art continued to be created on and around the mountain, the stone artwork of the mountain reflected representative styles for each period, and e rare and ofthe works produced on the mountain exemplified rare and unique styles.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.34
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• pp.133-172
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• 2017

Mansuseongjeol was originally a term that referred to the birthday of Chinese emperors. In October 1897, when Emperor Gojong ascended the throne, his birthday could be called mansuseongjeol. The celebratory events for mansuseongjeol took place throughout various levels of society and regions. Various places and classes including government officials, foreigners, students, religious people, journalists, merchants, civic groups, and nation-wide open ports celebrated the birth of Emperor Gojong, and the classes celebrating the day became stronger and wider. In other words, in the sense that the celebration had the nature of being universal, national, and global in terms of classes, regions, and races, the event was distinguished. Due to such nature, celebrating culture proceeded in various ways and the imperial family provided donation. Celebration on mansuseongjeol extended to respect toward the emperor and patriotism so it contributed to strengthening the emperor's power and solidifying the unity of the people. Also, such an event was reported around the world through diplomats and reporters living in Korea, raising the national status of Korea in the world. However, after the breakout of Russo-Japanese War, Japan controlled the finance of the royal family, reduced the power of the emperor, and the celebration of mansuseongjeol was also reduced. Due to the suspension of royal family's financial support, crackdown from Japan, and the dethronement of Emperor Gojong, events for mansuseongjeol disappeared and only inside the palace, did formal celebrations continue centering on pro-Japan officials and Japanese people. The abdication of Emperor Gojong came with the collapse of Korean Empire and along with that, celebration of mansuseongjeol came to an end. In the circumstances, the culture of court banquet disintegrated, and the best performers of Korean Empire degenerated into mere entertainers. Though mansuseongjeol, the medium of expressing respect toward the emperor and patriotism, lost its status, it is significant that the cultural achievements, which were created during the process established with the support of the financial power of the royal family, serve as internal power that drove Korea's modern and contemporary cultural history.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.196-221
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• 2011

The Royal Private Shrines or the Samyo(私廟), were dedicated to members of Choseon's royal family who could not be enshrined at the (official) Royal Ancestral Shrine, the Jongmyo(宗廟). The Samyo were constructed at the national level and were systematically managed as such. Because these private Shrines were dedicated to those who couldn't belong to the Jongmyo but were still very important, such as the ruling king's biological father or mother. The details of all royal constructions were included in the State Event Manuals, and with them, the two-dimensional layouts of the Samyo also. From the remaining "Hyunsa-gung Private Tomb Construction Layout Record(顯思宮別廟營建都監儀軌)" of 1824, which is the construction record of Gyeongwoo-gung Shrine(景祐宮) dedicated to Subin, the mother of King Sunjo(純祖), it became possible to investigate the so far unknown "The Painting of Gyeongwoo-gung Shrine", in terms of the year produced, materials used and other situational contexts. The investigation revealed that the "The Painting of Gyeongwoo-gung Shrine" is actually the "Hyunsa-gung Private Tomb Layout" produced by the Royal Construction Bureau. The bureau painted this to build Hyunsa-gung Private Shrine in a separately prepared site outside the court in 1824, according to the royal verdict to close down and move the temporary shrine inside the courtyard dedicated to Subin who had passed away in 1822. As the Construction Bureau must have also produced the Gyeongwoo-gung Shrine Layout, the painter(s) of this layout should exist among the official artists listed in the State Event Manual, but sadly, as their paintings have not survived to this day, we cannot compare their painting styles. The biggest stylistic character of the Painting of Gyeongwoo-gung Shrine is its perfect diagonal composition method and detailed and neat portrayalof the many palace buildings, just as seen in Donggwoldo(東闕圖, Painting of a panoramic view for Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung Palaces). A well-perceiving architectural painting employs a specific point of view chosen to fit the purpose of the painting, or it can opt to the multi-viewpoint. Korean traditional architectural paintings in early ages utilized the diagonal composition method, the bird-eye viewpoint, or the multi-viewpoint. By the 18th century, detailed but also artistic architectural paintings utilizing the diagonal method are observed. In the early 19th century, the peak of such techniques is exhibited in Donggwoldo(Painting of a panoramic view for Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung Palaces). From the perfect diagonal composition method employed and the details of the palace buildings numbering almost two hundreds, we can determine that the Painting of Gyeongwoo-gung Shrine also belongs to the same category of the highly technical architectural paintings as Donggwoldo(Painting of a panoramic view for Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung Palaces). We can also confirm this hypothesis by comparing the painting techniques employed in these two paintings in detailthe way trees and houses are depicted, and the way ground texture is expressed, etc. The unique characteristic of the Painting of Gyeongwoo-gung Shrine is, however, that the area surrounding the central shrine building(正堂), the most important area of the shrine, is drawn using not the diagonal method but the bird-eye viewpoint with the buildings lying flat on both the left and right sides, just as seen in the "Buildings Below the Central Shrine(正堂以下諸處)" in the State Event Manual's Painting Method section. The same viewpoint method is discovered in some other concurrent paintings of common residential buildings, so it is not certain that this particular viewpoint had been a distinctive feature for shrine paintings in general. On the other hand, when the diagonalmethod pointing to the left direction is chosen, the top-left and bottom-right sections of the painting become inevitably empty. This has been the case for the Painting of Gyeongwoo-gung Shrine, but in contrast, Donggwoldo shows perfect screen composition with these empty margins filled up with different types of trees and other objects. Such difference is consistent with the different situational contexts of these two paintings: the Painting of Gyeongwoo-gung Shrine is a simple single-sheet painting, while Donggwoldo is a perfected work of painting book given an official title. Therefore, if Donggwoldo was produced to fulfill the role of depiction and documentation as well as the aesthetic purpose, contrastingly, the Painting of Gyeongwoo-gung Shrine only served the purpose of copying the circumstances of the architecture and projecting them onto the painting.

• MISULJARYO - National Museum of Korea Art Journal
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• v.104
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• pp.10-39
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• 2023

Seongjusa Temple was founded in Boryeong in Chungcheongnam-do Province by Monk Muyeom (800-888), better known as Nanghye Hwasang. After returning from studying in China, Muyeom stayed in the Silla capital city of Gyeongju for a period. He later settled in a temple that was managed by the descendants of Kim In-mun (629-694). He then restored a burned-out temple and opened it in 847 as a Seon (Zen) temple named Seongjusa. It prospered and grew to become a large-scale temple with several halls within its domains. The influence of Seongjusa in the region can be seen in the Historical Record of Seongjusa Temple on Sungamsan Mountain, which relates that there were seventy-three rooms within the domains of the temple. What is most notable in the record is that the temple is referred to as "栴檀林九間," which means either "a structure with nine rooms built with Chinese juniper wood" or "a place that houses Chinese juniper wood and has nine rooms." Regardless of the interpretation, Seongjusa Temple had a large amount of juniper wood. Around this time, the term "juniper" referred to the olibanum tree (Boswellia sacra) native to the islands of Java and Sumatra in Southeast Asia. It is presumed that at some point after the death of Jang Bogo, the maritime forces that controlled the southwestern coast of Korea may have acquired a large amount of Southeast Asian olibanum wood and offered it to Seongjusa Temple. During the reign of King Munseong, Kim Yang (808-857) patronized Seongjusa Temple and its head monk Muyeom, who enjoyed a lofty reputation in the region. He sought to strengthen his own position as a member of the royal lineage of King Muyeol and create a bridge between the royal family and Seongjusan Buddhist sect. The court of King Wonseong designated Seongjusa Temple as a regional base for the support of royal authority in an area where anti-royal sentiment remained strong. Monk Muyeom is believed to have created an iron Buddha to protect the temple, enlighten the people, and promote regional stability. Given that the Seongjusa community had expanded to include more than 2,000 followers, the iron Buddha at Seongjusa Temple would have been perceived as an image that rallied the local residents. It is assumed that there were two iron Buddhas at Seongjusa Temple. The surviving parts of these Buddhas and the size of their pedestals suggest that they were respectively enshrined in the Geumdang Main Hall and the Samcheonbuljeon Hall of Three Thousand Buddhas. It is presumed that the first iron Buddha in Geumdang was a large statue over two meters in height and the second one was medium-sized with the height over one meter. The Historical Record of Seongjusa Temple on Sungamsan Mountain contains the phrase "改創選法堂五層重閣" which indicates that a multistoried Geumdang was newly built to enshrine a large Buddha sculpture like the first iron Buddha when Seongjusa Temple was founded. Also, according to the Stele of Seongjusa Temple and the surviving finger fragments, the first Buddha was making the fear-not and wish-granting (abhayavarada) mudras. The main Buddha of Seongjusa Temple is possibly Nosana Buddha, just like the main Buddhas at the contemporaneous temples Silsangsa, Borimsa, and Samhwasa. Given that Monk Muyeom studied Hwaeom teachings in his early years and received royal patronage upon his return, it is believed that the retro tendencies of the Hwaeom school, centered on the royal family of the Silla Dynasty, were reflected in Seongjusa temple.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.15
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• pp.66-77
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• 2014

A gujangbok is a king's silk ceremonial robe embroidered with nine symbols that represent the essential virtues that a king needs to govern his country. The National Museum of Korea currently own a gujangbok worn by King Gojong in the late Joseon Dynasty. The robe is painted with various colors, including red, yellow, blue, green, and gray. μ-XRF and analysis was conducted on the pigments, and it was found that the red color was made from cinnabar, the yellow color was gold and brass, the blue color was a blue organic pigment and white lead, the green color was a synthetic pigment composed of copper and arsenic, and the gray color pigment was silver. Also, the pigments were compared to those used to make the patterns of a queen's ceremonial robe and a front cloth panel, both made around the same time and also owned by the National Museum of Korea. The comparative analysis revealed clear differences and similarities between the various pigments. The resulting data expect to serve as a useful foundation research for future studying of the pigments used by the Joseon royal court in the late nineteenth century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.339-362
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• 1998

Food goods traded between Korea and Japan during the first term of the Cho Sun era included Omija (fruit of the Maximowiczia chinensis), Jat (pine nuts), Insam (Jinseng), rice, and beans as exports ; and pepper, sugar, and medicinal stuffs as imports. The trade between Korea and Japan was a result of Japanese envoies' visiting. The official number of Japanese envoies who had exchanges with Koreans were two thousand people a year. Once the Japanese entered Korea, they did not need to pay for their living expenses for the length of their visit because the Cho Sun government bore the whole expense. The Cho Sun government gave formal receptions to them, which included daily meals as well as banquet style meals. The daily meals included Jo-ban (breakfast), Jo-seok-ban (breakfast and dinner), and Ju-jeom-sim (lunch). Meals were served four times a day. The banquet style meals included Sam-po-yeon (a banquet that was held in Sam-po), Kyong-joong-young-jeon-yeon (a farewell banquet, and a welcome banquet that was held in Seoul), Jyu-bong-bae (to offer a guest a drink by day), No-yeon (a banquet that was held on the street), Kwol-nae-yeon (a banquet that was held within the Royal Court). It also included Ye-jo-yeon (a banquet that was held in Ye-jo), and Myong-il-yeon (a banquet that was held on a national holiday). The banquet style meals were composed of Ceon-tack (to set a table for dinner), Sang-hwa (a flower that was put on the food), Kwan-hwa (to offer a flower when a banquet was held), Ju-5-jan (the fifth wine glass), Dae-seon (meat), and music.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.4
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• pp.162-175
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• 2014

This study focuses on Korea's traditional-style soryebok, in terms of its foundation, progression, and structural features. The research methods employed here include literature analyses of relevant laws and an official daily gazette, and practical analyses of artifacts and photographic documents. Especially, the artifacts of heukdannyeong(black uniform for officials with a round neck) in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) were examined, which was regulated as soryebok in Eulmiuijegaehyeok. The term "soryebok" firstly appeared in "使和記略"(Sahwagiryak) written by Park Yeong-hyo, a foreign envoy to Japan, in 1882. Emperor's invitation written in the book asked him to wear daeryebok at the ritual and soryebok to the banquet. Soryebok was not adopted in Gapshinuijegaehyeok in 1884. However, several illustrated documents of the modern banquets at that time reveal that sabok, which was included in the 1884 reform, was used as soryebok. According to the Gapouijegaehyeok in December 1894, courtiers were required to wear heukdannyeong as daeryebok, and add juui(topcoat) and dapho(sleeveless coat) as tongsangyebok when they visited the royal palace. In Joseon's first daeryebok system, the term "tongsangyebok" that had been used in Japan was employed before soryebok was used. According to Eulmiuijegaehyeok in August 1895, the term "soryebok" originated from a costume ritual for courtiers of the Joseon Dynasty. Soryebok featured heokbannyeong chaksupo, samo (winged hat for officials), sokdae(belt), and hwaja (shoes for officials). There are around 24 artifact pieces of heukdannyeong in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) in the following locations: garments of Prince Heungwangun and Wansungun, the court artifacts, Korea University Museum, Yun Ung-ryeol's family housed at Yonsei University, and Kyungwoon Museum. Artifacts have mu(godet) pulled back and a topcoat-like triangular mu. In conclusion, heukdannyeong, traditional-style soryebok has significance in the history of modern dress because streamlined traditional clothes and newly introduced Western dress system were able to be combined.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.155-169
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• 1997

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in $\ulcorner$Genjimonokatary (원씨물어)$\lrcorner$. This book is a novel written by a Japanese sextant worked in the Royal Court around the year 1010. In this book, about 110 different kinds of Garments, Ornaments, Colors and Materials were mentioned. The results of this paper were as follows. 1. About the Garments 8f Ornaments ; All the Clothing and Textiles in $\ulcorner$Genjimonkatary$\lrcorner$ were reflections of the reality of that time. In the Clothing, Color, Textile and even Hair style, the Symbol of Buddism appeared. Many technical methods were developed in the garment shaping, dyeng and wearing methods. 2. About the Colors Sf Dyes; There were many kinds of Color SE Dyes described in $\ulcorner$Genjimonokatary$\lrcorner$. This means color was developed more than other elements in that period. Among them, gray and black colors were mentioned, this means Buddist Color was fashioned in that period. $\ulcorner$Kasaneno-irome (강색목)$\lrcorner$ was changed from Ungan (운간) that had been origined of China and Korea. But it became one of the Japanese Costume. That have some reasons, for instance, high materials could not be imported from other countris and many people were controlled by the Taboo of clothing (금제) so they wanted the better method, such as Kasaneno-irome. Many kinds of colors'name was origined from flowers and plants. It also represented the seasons. Yurusi-iro (청색) was meaning the permitable color to the popular people. Without the head word, Deep Color' and 'Pale Color' meant those things of the purple and red. 3. About the Materials IE Patterns : The materials imported from other country, China and Korea, were good in quality, but those produced in Japan were not good. There were many kinds of dyeing method, especially Srijome (신염) was very special and nice method in that period.

• The Journal of Korean Medical History
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.149-160
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• 2013

King Sunjong was the 27th King and the last King in the Joseon Dynasty. He lived an unhappy life as the prince and the King of perishing country. At the age of 22, He witness the death of his mother Queen Myeongseong by Japanese assassin. He has a weak constitution and have many diseases. He get varicella(水痘) in infancy, and suffered from smallpox(紅疫) at 6, and catched the measles(天然痘) at 12. At the age of 25, Having drunk the coffee that contained opium(阿片), he had bloody excrement(血便) and lose the 18 teeth. The Symptoms that appeared frequently at adult age are indigestion(滯症), diarrhea(泄瀉), trophedema(足部浮腫), odontopathy(齒科疾患) etc. This indigestion(滯症) and diarrhea(泄瀉) are occurred by gastroenteropathy(胃腸病). This odontopathy(齒科疾患) is the aftereffect from having 18 false teeth. We assume that this trophedema(足部浮腫) is occurred by cardiac disease(心臟病) and renal disease(腎臟病). The chronic diseases of King Sunjong are gastroenteropathy(胃腸病), renal disease(腎臟病), cardiac disease(心臟病), rheumatism. We assume that the immediate cause of his death is the aggravation of the renal disease(腎臟病) and cardiac disease(心臟病). The medical treatments for him are hardly included in "Formal Records of the Joseon Dynasty(朝鮮王朝實錄)" which is the prime governmental document. Many royal doctors in court used the traditional Korean medicine, but western doctors from Japan often treated him by medical techniques such as injection(注射), consperg(散藥), liquid medicine(水藥).