• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.241-260
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• 1998

1. Both the festival held in Confucian temple to honor Confucius or a religious ceremony in Korean traditional lecture-hall are the sacrificial rituals which is the mark of the respect for prescholars and these rituals has been followed the rules written in the book,'Yaegi' 2. For the Food formal display for the festival in Confusian temple of Chinese Gukjagam, Pebak(clothes), Mohyul(hair and blood), and the ritual food dishes, such as Byun 10, Doo 10, Gang 3 (Deung 1, Hyung 2), Bo 2, Cue 2, Jo 3 (Taeraeu as beef dish 1, Soraeu as sheep and pork dishes 2), Joo(alcohol) 3 were displayed, while in Juhyunhak, Byun 8, Doo 8 were displayed. In Taesangji edited around in 1873 in Korea, for the Confucian shrine Pebak, Mohyul, Byun 10, Doo 10, Deung 3, Hyung 3, Bo 2, Cue 2, Jo 6 (raw 3, cooked 3), Joo 3 were displayed. In pedantry Confucian temple, Pebak, Byun 8, Doo 8, Bo 2, Cue 2, Jo 2 (raw sheep and pork), Joo 3 were displayed while Mohyul was omitted, which this type of display was almost identical through the nationwide survery for the Confucian food display. Some of the Confucian food display, most of the display for Bo and Cue have been changed to Bo 1 and Cue 1, and one fifth of the Confucian display for Byun and Doo also has been changed in the numbers and food varieties. 3. In most of the sacrificial ritual food display in the Korean traditional lecture-hall, Pebak (some not applicable), Byun 4, Doo 4, Bo 1, Cue 1, Jo 1 (raw), Joo 1 were displayed. In these days, the number of the Confucian temple where the sacrificial rituals is not held, has been increased. 4. For the names of food for the Byun and Doo dishes, mostly the old names are used, however, minor changes in materials and cooking method have been found.

• 복식
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• 제61권4호
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• pp.52-62
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• 2011

This study is about the history of costumes depicted on the book Goryosa(高麗史) Ye-Ji(禮志). Researches about the costumes of Goryo dynasty are very rare and are mostly based on Goryodogyung(高麗圖經) and Goryosa Yebok-Ji(與服志). However, records about suitable costumes for a special scene of a rite can also be found in Ye-Ji besides Yebok-Ji. Therefore, this study analyzes Ye-Ji and categorizes the results into character and situation. Characters that can be found are king, officials, crown prince, aristocrat, commoner and envoy. Situations that can be found, according to the original text, are Gilrye(吉禮), Hyoongrye(凶禮), Goonrye(軍禮) and Garye(嘉禮). The results of the study are as follows; $\blacktriangleright$ The king had to change clothes in order to suit the situation according to the precise sequence of rituals. Therefore the king had to wear different clothes in the same rite, optionally, depending on the situation. This also applies to the case of officials. $\blacktriangleright$ The crown prince and aristocrats generally wore the same clothes as officials. $\blacktriangleright$ In the important ritual of Garye(嘉禮), many cases can be found where officials wore Jobok(朝服) and hands-on worker wore Gongbok(公服). $\blacktriangleright$ It is remarkable that on the New Year's day, the winter solstice and Sungsoojul(聖壽節; the emperor's birthday) the envoy of Ming Sangbok(常服); whereas the king and the officials of Goryo wore the Myunbok(冕服) or Jobok(朝服).

• 복식
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• 제64권4호
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• pp.162-175
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• 2014

This study focuses on Korea's traditional-style soryebok, in terms of its foundation, progression, and structural features. The research methods employed here include literature analyses of relevant laws and an official daily gazette, and practical analyses of artifacts and photographic documents. Especially, the artifacts of heukdannyeong(black uniform for officials with a round neck) in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) were examined, which was regulated as soryebok in Eulmiuijegaehyeok. The term "soryebok" firstly appeared in "使和記略"(Sahwagiryak) written by Park Yeong-hyo, a foreign envoy to Japan, in 1882. Emperor's invitation written in the book asked him to wear daeryebok at the ritual and soryebok to the banquet. Soryebok was not adopted in Gapshinuijegaehyeok in 1884. However, several illustrated documents of the modern banquets at that time reveal that sabok, which was included in the 1884 reform, was used as soryebok. According to the Gapouijegaehyeok in December 1894, courtiers were required to wear heukdannyeong as daeryebok, and add juui(topcoat) and dapho(sleeveless coat) as tongsangyebok when they visited the royal palace. In Joseon's first daeryebok system, the term "tongsangyebok" that had been used in Japan was employed before soryebok was used. According to Eulmiuijegaehyeok in August 1895, the term "soryebok" originated from a costume ritual for courtiers of the Joseon Dynasty. Soryebok featured heokbannyeong chaksupo, samo (winged hat for officials), sokdae(belt), and hwaja (shoes for officials). There are around 24 artifact pieces of heukdannyeong in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) in the following locations: garments of Prince Heungwangun and Wansungun, the court artifacts, Korea University Museum, Yun Ung-ryeol's family housed at Yonsei University, and Kyungwoon Museum. Artifacts have mu(godet) pulled back and a topcoat-like triangular mu. In conclusion, heukdannyeong, traditional-style soryebok has significance in the history of modern dress because streamlined traditional clothes and newly introduced Western dress system were able to be combined.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권2호
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• pp.233-252
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• 2021

The Gwan ceremony (冠禮) is a coming-of-age ceremony that takes place through traditional Gwan (冠: the hat) and clothes in the traditional era. The rite is performed by wearing hats and clothes three consecutive times (三加禮). It was an important rite which meant that underage children were formally recognized as members of society. This study examined costumes of people who participated in various coming-of-age ceremony rites in the Ming dynasty imperial court of China. For the research data, this study mainly used authentic chronicles (正史), codes of law and books on Ming dynasty rituals. This study examined the costumes used in the coming-of-age ceremony for the emperor, Prince Imperial, Emperor's eldest grandson, and emperor's sons. The results of this study were divided into an analysis of the document structure, institutional changes by time, characteristics of costumes, and characteristics of the rite. Of particular note in their ceremony, the emperor is presupposed to be a 'human already full-equipped with virtue', which means that the costume is worn only once. It is a case in which the emperor's absolute identity is revealed through the rite and costume.

• 복식
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• 제48권
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• pp.151-168
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• 1999

A Study on a Woman's Shrouds in Middle of the 16 Century based on the excavation of the Mrs. Moon's grave in Andong is reported in this paper. As a result of the study the followings are obtained: 1. From the architecture and costume in the Mrs. Moon's grave we can conclude that Confucian funeral rites were already established in Andong region of the 16th century. 2. The articles used for funeral rites can be classified as Bujangpum(副葬品) Chikwanjeku(治棺諸具) Bokongpoom(補空品), and Yumsupku(斂솝具) and costumes for the death wrapping can be especially classified as Yumsupeui(斂섭衣) 3. Total 63 remains were excavated from the Mrs. Moon's grave. Among them 3 Chikwanjeku 19 Daeryumku(大斂具) 12 Soryumku(小斂具) and 29 Supku(섭具) Yumsup procedure was performed with great care Shrouds were the casual cloths and only Sangbok were made for the ritual Several Sooeui were found. 4. Pricedyak characteristics of Yumsup include unusual direction of wrap the meaning of Boolryu and unusual Chingsoo of used clothes. 5. There were 41 costumes in : Coats were Sangbok and Jangot upper cloths were long jacket and short jacket Danjukori Jeoksam and Hansam Each of the trousers and the skirts were two different kinds by the form The pair of Hangjeon socks shoes and a cap found in this grave were also studied.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.37-55
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• 1987

Pasul (Herein after referred to Korean-styled Pasul) to cover up the secrets, which has originated from Bool-an original mode of clothes is to put around a belt with a kind of towel. With the development of culture, it has been handed down the parts of ornamental and symbolic functions, losted its particular and original one. In general, we cannot exactly show when the Pasul has been used as a ritual dress, but, dare to maintain in this thesis, which has been used in Koguryu era. This thesis is summarized as follows: 1. The Bool, which is the first dress of all has its origin in the prehistory, and gradually has developed to a ceremonial dress with the help of man's intelligence. 2. Korean-styled Pasul has continuously been handed down from generation to generation (to adding up, from Koguryu era to Yi dynasty). Today, the color of the Pasul is known as a pink one, but I, herein, would like to refer that king Kojong in Yi dynasty had on a yellow-colored Pasul. 3. With becoming to be a form of ceremonial dress, the Bool has become to be complicated in style. For example, in the Koguryu era, the style is in the form of 'U,' and in Koryu era, it is the echelon formation tinting a pink color and weaving a mountain and flare shaped designs, and its dimension, the upper is one ja (a ja means a unit of length, 0.33 M), the lower, two ja, its length three ja. The Bool of Yi dynasty tints a pink color, and weaves a seaweeds, rices, axes and shaped designs. The Pasul which King Kojong in Yi dynasty put in, was a yellow-colored one weaving dragons and fire shaped design. 4. The Pasul is a ceremonial dress used a ritual or court dress. The purposes of wearing it are to distinguish the upper from the lower classes, to make them abide by regulations, and to respect courtesy. Accordingly, the Pasul. as the dress for special occassions does make us review the old and learn the new. 5. The reason that Pasul has been handed down are: 1) richness and fecundity. 2) symbol mark to represent classicalism. 3) to symbolize the authority by putting on it, for it is necessary to distinguish the upper from the lower classes along with the class consciousness in society. 6. On the basis of the study, the Pasul transition is to be handed down the function of the ornament and symbol. after losted its original functions, with the development of culture.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.56-72
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to provide a philosophical basis for a rational, meaningful and systematic development of contemporary Korean fashion and culture industry. The study will begin by comparing traditional aesthetics of Japan and Korea and their respective influences in contemporary fashion design. Japanese aesthetic consciousness can be understood in terms of decorative beauty and undecorated beauty where traditional Korean aesthetic consciousness consists of aesthetic naturalism, beauty of mysticism and beauty of humor. Japanese aesthetic consciousness is generally inclined toward article fanciness, on the other hand, Korean aesthetic consciousness is inclined toward natural beauty. Both Japan and Korea reflect their traditional aesthetic consciousness in their contemporary fashion design. In Japan's case, traditional patterns have been applied to obi(帶, おび). And aesthetic naturalism can be seen in holes, tears and patches present, as well as rough and coarse texture used, in contemporary fashion design. In case of Korea, aesthetic naturalism can be seen in elegant naturally flowing curves and use of plain colored fabric used in fashion design. Beauty of mysticism can be seen in splendid primary colors from shaman ritual costumes, and fortune-telling hexagram patterns. Beauty of humor can be seen in outrageously exaggerated and distorted fit of clothes. The above comparative analysis, with respect to their formative elements, show that both Korean and Japanese contemporary fashion trends reflect and embody their respective traditional aesthetic consciousness. Japan is creating high-grade fashion design of temporal universality and contemporary appeal. Japan has done so by studying their aesthetic tradition from the point of view of philosophy and utilizing its formative elements. Korea, however, is in the middle of transition: Korea is caught between directly grafting traditional aesthetic designs onto contemporary fashion design and integrating the two according to their common internal spirit.

• 고려인삼학회:학술대회논문집
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• 고려인삼학회 2002년도 학술대회지
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• pp.456-466
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• 2002

Wild ginseng production is increasing due to forest recovery for last 30 years. Total number of Symmani (traditional mountain ginseng digger) was 558 in 2001. Provincial distribution of Symmani in 2001 was highest in Kangwon $(32\%),$ next in Choongbook $(21\%)$ and least in Jeonnam $(0.7\%)$ and Kyoungnam $(0.9\%).$ Age distribution of Symmani was $33\%\;for\;fourties,\;32\%$ for fifties and $20\%$ for sixties. There were 8 persons in eighties. Symmanies are still keeping traditional ritual for mountain god serving clothes of colored ribbons and foods. Increased production induced open market system from underground dealing of mountain ginseng. Korea Mountain Ginseng Association established mountain ginseng assessment committee with professional Symmanies in 2001. From September to November in 2001, 987 roots were requested for quality assessment to the committee and 476 roots $(48\%)$ were passed and graded and others were rejected. Highest frequency of rejection was foreign origin. Pass rate was highest $(74\%)$ in Choongnam suggesting best place for quality. Number of collected roots in each province was positively correlated (p=0.05) with number of Symmanies. There are 3 quality groups of mountain ginseng, Heaven (pure natural), Earth (from seeding of wild ginseng) and Man (from seeding or seedling of wild ginseng with slight environmental modification). The relationship between price and age was polynomial in high quality root, Heaven, Earth and seed long head of Man group, and linear in low quality group, seedling long head of Man. The best one in 2001 was 26 g, 124 years old and sold with 109 million won. Quality criteria are age, shape, weight, color and healthy outlook. Fine roots are criteria for health status of roots and taproot is criteria for efficacy and called as medicine barrel. The implication is that ginsenosides have rarely been experienced for efficacy. The quality criteria of cultivated ginseng were originated from those of mountain ginseng. It is unique for mountain ginseng that only fresh one can be on market. Since quality criteria of mountain ginseng must be based on the efficacy experience it is well expected that present criteria might almost be established at the age of Shinnong Materia Medica.

• 한국철학논집
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• 제52호
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• pp.131-155
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• 2017

이 글에서는 간재가 문경지역에 거주할 때의 강학활동을 살펴봄으로써 40대 중반 왕성하게 학문 활동을 하면서 자신의 사상을 정립해가던 젊은 간재의 모습을 추적해 보고자 한다. 문경의 심원사에서 강학활동을 하면서 간재는 "강규"를 세워, 선생과 제자 사이의 예를 엄격히 하였고, 부부 사이에는 반드시 서로 공경히 대할 것을 가르쳤다. 이를 통해서 자신의 학단 안에서라도 옛 예를 회복할 것을 기대하였다. 1884년에는 청화산 시동에서 강학활동을 하였는데, "시동서사의"를 지어, 뜻을 크게 세울 것, "소학"을 행동준칙으로 삼을 것, 공부하는 과정에서 성(性)을 위주로 삼을 것을 주장하였다. 성(性)을 위주로 삼을 것을 주장한 것은 성사심제설의 단초를 보여주는 것이다. 문경 지역에서 간재는 송병화와 서신을 주고받으며 학문을 논하기도 하였고, 문경 지역과 관련 있는 학자들과 교류하기도 하였다. 송병화와 예를 논하면서 간재는 할아버지 상중에 아버지가 돌아가셨을 때, 아버지를 대신하여 할아버지의 삼년상을 마치는 것이 인정상 맞는 것이라고 보았다. 또한 송병화가 심이 체용을 갖추고 있다는 설을 주장한 것에 대해 그것을 반대하지 않으면서도, 그것이 심의 주재성을 지나치게 강조하는 것으로 오해할 소지가 있다고 보고, 성체심용(性體心用)이라고 하여 어디까지 성을 앞세워야 하는 것이라고 주장하였다. 간재는 문경 지역에 거주하면서 문경 지역과 관련이 있는 학자들과도 교류하였는데, 의당 박세화와 지암 김재경이 대표적인 사람들이다. 박세화는 홍직필의 재전제자라는 점에서 간재와 공통점이 있었다. 박세화는 문경에서 의병활동을 도모하다가 체포되어 옥살이를 하였고, 1910년 경술국치를 당하여 단식으로 순국하였다. 간재와 의당은 당시 기울어져가던 나라의 운명, 중화와 이적, 거의(擧義)와 자정(自靖)에 대해 논의하였다. 김재경은 의성 사람으로 간재가 문경에 머물 때 교류한 것으로 보이는데, 이후에도 상호 방문하고 서신을 교류하는 등 관계를 지속하였다. 간재가 문경에 머무르던 시기에 국가적으로 큰 사건들도 몇 가지 있었다. 간재가 심원사에서 강학을 시작하기 1년 전인 1882년에는 임오군란이 있었고, 1884년에는 의복제도를 좁은 소매로 바꾼다는 조정의 명령이 있었다. 간재는 이러한 조정의 명령에 따르지 않고, 옛 제도를 고수하도록 제자들에게 지시하였다. 조정의 명령을 따르지 않아도 되느냐는 의문에 대해서 간재는 의리상 불가한 것은 임금의 명령이라도 따르지 않을 수 있다고 대답하였다. 1884년에는 또한 갑신정변이 있었는데, 간재는 외세를 배격하고 예를 지킴으로써 나라를 지킬 수 있는 것이라고 보았다. 이상으로 볼 때, 간재가 문경에서 강학하던 시기는 개인적으로는 간재의 핵심적인 사상인 성사심제설을 정립할 단초를 마련하던 시기였다고 할 수 있다. 국가적으로는 외세의 틈바구니에서 어떻게 나라를 지킬 것이냐가 문제가 되었던 시기였다고 할 수 있는데, 간재는 이에 대해서 문화의 표지인 예를 굳건히 지킴으로써 나라도 지킬 수 있다는 신념을 지니고 있었고, 그에 따라 행동한 것으로 보인다.

• 역사민속학
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• 제45호
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• pp.7-50
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• 2014

본 연구는 조선 초기 흉례(凶禮)의 정비 과정이라는 연속선상에서 원경왕후 국상을 하나의 기점으로 파악하고 그 특징을 상제(喪制)의 변화 및 의식 절차의 분석을 통해 제시하는데 목적이 있다. 세종 2년 발생한 태종 비(妃) 원경왕후의 국상은 조선에서 국왕이 상주(喪主)가 되어 진행하는 삼년상(三年喪)의 의식 절차가 정비되어, 그 의주가 실록에 기재된 최초의 사례였다. 국상 복제 논의에서는 기존에 행해오던 역월제를 탈피하여 졸곡의 의미가 강조되었다. 기존의 도감 운영 체계를 정리하여 빈전 국장 산릉 3도감만을 운영하게 되었으며, 불교 관련 의례는 대폭 축소 규제되게 되었다. 삼년상 기간 동안 국왕의 친행을 고려한 의식 절차도 새롭게 정비되었다. 의식의 기본 패턴은 배례(拜禮) 곡(哭)-행례(行禮)-배례(拜禮) 곡(哭)로 이루어졌는데 우제(虞祭)를 기점으로 전(奠)과 제(祭)로 구분되었다. 이는 태종대 길례 의식의 정비가 이루어진 바탕에서 고제(古制)에 기반한 '전(奠)'과 제(祭)'의 이해가 반영된 결과였다. 그리고 이러한 패턴을 기준으로 개별 의식 절차의 분석을 행하였다. 이를 통해 원경왕후 국상에서 국왕이 친행하는 실질적인 삼년상 실행을 위한 상장 제도 및 의식 절차의 제정과, 그 바탕이 된 고제의 이해 수용 수준을 확인할 수 있었다.