• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.10
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• pp.118-132
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• 2010

The purpose of the research is to develop a systematic model to interpret makeup signs through a case analysis of makeup shown in Alexander McQueen's ready-to-wear collections from 2001 to 2010 and to prove an importance of makeup as a communication medium to deliver social and cultural values. This research employed Panofsky's Iconology theory to analyze data. This theory consists of three steps to interpret the meaning of a work: (1) pre-iconographical description, (2) iconographical analysis, and (3) iconological interpretation. Alexander McQueen's makeup was analyzed with the three steps in order. As a result of the pre-iconographical description step, makeup styles (icons) in his collections are identified which are Egyptian style, Gothic style, Androgynous style, Victorian style, Fantasia style, and Futuristic variant style. The iconographical analysis step identified that the elements used in his makeup are inspired by his identity and life. In the final step of iconological interpretation, the researcher concluded that Alexander McQueen's makeup expresses social, cultural, and aesthetical value of the time period when the collection was created. His makeup shows postmodernism that accepts a diversity of views (the pluralism) and humanism, romantic narcissism that is his personality trait, and avant-garde that pursues a new, creative aesthetics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.737-748
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• 1998

This study was carried out on 132 obese women who satisfied both of conditions for obesity: equal to or over 1.6 in Rohrer index and 90 in bust girth. The purpose of the study was to set up a sizing system using the loss function which would be a guide for obese women to select ready-to-wear of suitable size. The results were as follows. 1) In the sizing system for large size apparel industry, each company has 4 to 7 sizes that differ in their content and number. Producing only 5 sizes was trying to minimize the producti on expenses. 2) The sizing system according to the loss function was the follwings. The height was 3: 149, 154.5 and 161 cm. The bust girth was 5:96.5, 100.5, 104, 107.5, 112 cm. The hip girth was 5: 95, 99, 102.5, 105.5, 110 cm. 3) In comparing the cover ratio of the newly suggested sizing system for obese women's garment with that of the Korea Sizing system for women's garment, the former was founded to have the greater cover ratio.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.5
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• pp.19-40
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to grasp the world of Galliano works who lead Dior Couture and to make use of this knowledge to comprehension of general trend in Haute Couture and $pr{\hat{e}}t-{\acute{a}}$-porter in the future. The method of research is to search for the characteristic of Haute Couture and the general tendency of Galliano works, and to view the inclination of Dior Couture by Galliano. For sphere of research, 2000s is discussed with focus on Haute Couture, exclusive of ready-to-wear. As a result, Galliano's Couture works were distinguished into four specificities. First, the historicity including historical event, personage and epoch. Second, the orientalism. Third, the pictorial characteristic including synthetic art and public art. Forth, the quality of humor. These subjects bring about a result that break down each boundary, in the method of interpreting, as try out mixing between every elements. Galliano pursue a new domain through the fusion of East and West, past and present, classic and pop, artistry and commercialism, this induce more familiar Haute Couture to the public, breaking the strict form of Couture. It seems that this tendency will be advanced toward extrovert Couture producing the low-age phenomenon in Couture, the mixture of multi-culture and the vitality. This fusion suggest the popularity and the commerciality of Couture, which is predicted decrease the difference between Couture and $pr{\hat{e}}t-{\acute{a}}$-porter.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.6
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• pp.117-130
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to provide the basic data on the development of ready-to-wear clothing for the elderly women as the population of the elderly has been constantly increasing as well as the purchasing power of the aged. The body measurements of 318 elderly women were taken. whose ages were over 60 years and enrolled in colleges for the elderly. sports centers. or business sites in Seoul and the neighboring districts. A total of 39 features in the lower body were used for the anthropometric measurement and analysis. The results of the study are as follows: 1. Indices of height and weight were used for factor analysis. cluster analysis, and discriminant analysis in order to 'classify lower body somatotype according to shape, excluding size factors. From the results of the factor analysis. the 5 factors showed the cumulative sum of square at 75.63%. 2. Somatotype were classified into two types according to a cluster analysis using height and weight dices. Type 1 is the group is relatively tall and has somewhat fat lower limbs. Type 2 is considered fat and has obesity factors around waist and abdomen area. The hit rate for the classified two groups showed the result at 95.9%.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.61-71
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• 1997

In industrial designing of ready-to-wear shoes, one important factor to consider is that the population has diverse fooot shapes as well as foot length. The general shape of a foot could be represented by "foot ratio", i.e. the ratio of width to length. In this study, we measured several dey aspects of young Korean men's foot, and compared the results with their shoe sizes and general foot shapes. To this end, 172 male subjects were categorized according to their shoe size (small, medium, large) or foot ratio (wide, narrow, intermediate). The statistics of this survey indicated that the people with narrow foot shap have significantly greater foot length compared with the one having wide foot shape. Conversely, subjects having wide foot shape manifested significantly greater foot and ankle girth as well as significantly greater foot breadth. However, different foot shape groups showed no significant differences in heel width, heel ankle girth, instep height, and malleolus height. On the other hand, subjects wearing larger shoe size showed significantly larger foot measurements except instep and ankle heights, whereas subjects with shoe sizes 260 and below measured significantly more narrow heel and lateral metatarsal breadths. The deviation between foot length and dress shoe size(length) was greater in groups with wide foot shape and in groups wearing large shoe sizes. The results of this survey indicated that the subjects with wide foot shape apparently choose a size or two larger shoes for them as a compromise for a better breadth fit.eadth fit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.307-318
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• 2008

Recently, the environmental problems have surfaced as serious social issues. More people become aware of the environments and seek for new kinds of lifestyle Lohas. The purpose of this study was to investigate the expressional characteristics of Lohas fashion design in ready-to-wear collection from 2000 till 2005. In the study, green design which was the base of Lohas fashion, was first examined, which was followed by an analysis of Lohas styles to understand the green design-oriented characteristics of Lohas fashion in the current fashion trends. The findings were as follows: First, the lifestyle of Lohas values 'environment-friendliness', 'sustainability', 'importance of health' and 'sensitivity'. Second, the distinguishing features of Lohas lifestyle categorize the Lohas fashion into five different looks: 'Lohas Natural Look', 'Lohas Vintage Look', 'Lohas Redesign Look', 'Lohas Multi look', and 'Lohas Wellness Look'. This study set out to provide useful results to be used as the basic data in studying design and related areas where they would develop fashion products for the consumers with the latest tastes as well as to promote environment protection.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.24-37
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• 2019

This study focused on the fashion designer brand 'Alexander McQueen' to determine how butterflies are used in modern fashion through the sensibilities of certain designers. To this end, both a literature review and empirical research were conducted. First, we examined the origin of the word and appearance characteristics of butterflies based on prior research and a book, and also surveyed the tendencies used by the fashion designer brand Alexander McQueen. Second, out of 239 items announced by the fashion designer brand "Alexander McQueen" RTW (Ready to Wear) ranging from the S/S Collection in 2008 to the 2018-9 F/W collection, 73 pieces deemed to be fashion using butterfly images were collected through www.samsung.net and www.firstview.com, then analyzed based on timing and aesthetic characteristics. Results. The analysis by time period was divided into fantasy, handicraft, mix and match, and aesthetic characteristics shown in the order of compromise beauty, rhythmical beauty, and voluptuous beauty. The purpose of this study was to determine how butterflies are expressed in fashion based on the sensibility of a specific designer in modern fashion, the fashion designer brand 'Alexander McQueen'. Based on the results of this study, we hope that the information presented herein on fashion of natural images will serve as a basic material for similar research or design ideas as an example of designs based on butterfly images.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.83-94
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to analyze the reality of clothes-wearing among physically disabled women and propose trouser designs. As a research method, an in-depth interview method was adopted for 10 women in their 30s and 50s with lower limb disabilities who could wear trousers and use wheelchairs. The study results identified the following factors that should be considered in the design of trousers. First, a semi-casual design that could hide physical deficiencies, was not different from ready-made clothes and enabled various looks was desirable. Second, the proper material would have little transformation in the form, have remarkable durability and laundry fastness, two-directional stretch, and hide deficiencies with a sense of thickness and density. Third, an "L-frame" pattern in a sitting position, and a straight fit were desirable. Finally, pockets can impose pressure according to their form, size, position, and sewing method, highlighted the need for a sewing approach to minimize seams in the fabric. For adjustment, an elastic band would be a good choice in terms of type, length, position, and material as it could satisfy both the convenience of putting on and taking off and comfort in wearing at the same time. Decorative design details can also impose pressure according to a sense of thickness, which means that they should be avoided in parts that are close to the body or can impose pressure according to posture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.850-860
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• 2000

The purposes of this study was to provide the fundamental data for children's wear standardizing sizes of ready-made clothes by analyzing the elementary school girls’somatotype. The subjects for anthropometic measurements were 434 elementary school girls’by age groups < ‘(1st age(1ㆍ2 grade)’,‘2nd age(3ㆍ4 grade)’, and 3rd(5ㆍ6 grade)’ > living in Pusan. According to the analysis of upper bodies by the age groups 1. According to the analysis to draw somatometric factors by the age groups, sevenㆍseven and six actors in 1st . End and 3rd age groups are obtained from measurements of upper body. 2. The 1st & 2nd age groups: As the result of factor analysis for the factor, the first and second factors which explain more than 70% of the whole variance represent“horizontal size”and“vertical size”, which characterize more aspects of the body shape of girls at elementary school ages. 3. The 3rd age groups: As the result of factor analysis for the factor, 6 factor which explain 74.39% of variance were extracted form anthropometic data. The first factor represented the items of circumference, breadth and depth related to“sectional size the front length of the upper body”, The second factor described the items of "heights & the back length of the upper body”.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.4
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• pp.672-686
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• 2022

The study classifies and analyzes the lower-body-shape types of female adolescents aged 14 to 16 years to provide meaningful information for making ready-to-wear patterns that are suitable for various female adolescent body types. The body-size data of 830 females aged 14 to 16 years were analyzed from 6th Size Korea anthropometric study. A factor analysis of 27 measurement items related to the lower body extracted 3 factors: waist/upper legs, height of the lower body, and hip area. A cluster analysis classified the female adolescent lower-body types into four clusters: the skinny body type with the shortest lower-body length, the most obese body type with the largest girth, the normal body type with the longest hip length, and the slender body type with the longest lower-body length. The discriminant analysis determined that nine measurement items had the most influence on classifying lower-body-shape types, and discriminant functions were derived. These results are meaningful because they provide more precise information about lower-body-shape types.