• The Korean Journal of Quaternary Research
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 2001

The time-spatial distributional changes of fourteen warmth-tolerant plants have reconstructed by the use of the historical records of the Chosun Dynasty on the periods of 1454, 1531, 1660, 1760, 1842∼45, 1864, 1907 and 1931. Nine types of geographical distribution, and four types of temporal distribution are, respectively, recognised from fourteen warmth-tolerant plants. The most widely distributed species which occur at more than 100 counties was the persimmon. Species occurred more than 50 counties include the large bamboo, small bamboo and pomegranate. Tea plant and ramie are also commonly found species at more than 30 counties. Past geographical distribution of warmth-tolerant plants seems to be the result of both natural and anthropogenic environments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.107-125
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• 2020

Indigo [鴉靑] was used as a symbolic color in 15^th century diplomacy. This study reinforces the historical research for characteristic and shapes of indigo colored royal clothing gift in King Seongjong's reign with a focus on po [袍] and ieom [耳掩]. Clothing made of fur that was combined with satin damask, silk gossamer [綃] were frequent gift, and a sable coat was a symbol of high-ranking clothes. Another clothing's materials were satin damask, sheer fabric gauze [羅], cotton, tabby with silk and ramie [紵絲]. The indigo color of King Seongjong's reign was recommended not for luxury. Historical research factors for indigo clothing gift were extracted from noblemen's relics. Danryeong and jigryeong are shaped of narrow sleeves and trapezoid gusset pleated in and out. Sable coat can consist of satin damask outshell, sable lining, and double oblique collar. Heohyung are presumed types of short sleeved fur vests. Ieom can be reconstructed with an indigo fabric outshell and sufficient fur. Dapho has gusset pleated wide and narrow. As additional gifts, the shapes of yoseon-cheopri and cheopri were analyzed. We selected a commercial fabric similar to relics and an indigo powder dyeing method to remedy a lack of traditional material. The reconstructed data were presented as flat drawings and samples.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2009.05a
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• pp.223-226
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• 2009

최근 의생활에 있어서 가장 큰 변화는 쾌적성의 추구와 건강을 중심으로 한 기능성 소재에 대한 소비자들의 욕구가 증대된다는 것이다. 천연 섬유 중 모시는 통기성이 우수하고 감촉이 깔깔하여 고온 다습한 우리나라의 여름철 옷감으로 좋으므로 현대 의생활로의 도입이 요구되고 있다. 그동안 모시직물은 심미적인 욕구에도 잘 맞아 한국인의 정서에 좋은 이미지로 자리 잡고 있지만 수공예적 생산방식을 그대로 답습하고 있어 전통모시직물로는 많이 이용이 되어왔으나 현대 방적모시직물을 이용한 새로운 직물디자인 개발은 이루어지기 어려운 실정이었다. 그러나 최근 방적모시섬유에 대한 연구가 활발하게 진행되기 시작하면서 현대 방적모시직물의 생산이 가능하게 되었다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 원사의 특성과 제조공정 특성에 의해 미세한 감성촉감의 차이를 유발하기 좋은 폴리에스터를 경사로하고 방적모시와 라이오셀을 위사로 하여 현대 모시직물의 개발을 시도하였다. 모시의 소비를 증가시키고 현대인의 감성에 맞게 심미성을 향상시킬 수 있도록 직물문양을 디자인하였다. 직물의 복잡한 문양을 컴퓨터로 디자인하고 자동으로 제직이 가능하게 하는 시스템인 EAT 프로그램을 이용하여 자카드 직물 특유의 고급스러움을 살리며 공정과정에서의 실의 밀림 등을 고려하며 조직을 설계하였다. 설계된 직물은 제직 후 염색 가공하여 쿠션, 방석, 테이블 러너 등의 시제품으로 제작하여 고부가가치 모시제품의 개발가능성을 살펴보았다.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.46 no.10
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• pp.1-9
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to increase uv-cut ability of cotton, ramie, and rayon fabrics dyed with safflower red colorants. For this purpose, samples treated with uv-cut agent and tannic acid were compared with the untreated samples after ultraviolet(uv)-light exposure in terms of K/S value, color changes(${\Delta}E$), SEM, and tensile strength retention. K/S value rapidly decreased with increasing exposure time, but K/S value of the samples treated with both uv-cut agent and tannic acid decreased less than that of untreated samples. As increasing exposure time, $L^*$ and $b^*$ increased, $a^*$ decreased, and so ${\Delta}E$ increased, indicating less red character and more yellow character in color. This leads to change hue, value and chroma value. But color change of samples treated with both uv-cut agent and tannic acid was less than that of untreated samples. SEM pictures showed a severe degradation by uv exposure in all samples. Tensile strength slowly decreased for 21 days. And after this point, the decreased proceeded more rapidly. Tensile strength retention of the samples treated with uv-cut agent and tannic acid was higher than that of untreated samples.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.772-780
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• 1998

The purpose of this research was to investigate the fiber content of and the characteristics of non-fibrous matters within the textiles exhumed from Keumreung-Ri, Pajoo of Kyunggi-do. Various microscopic methods' and the IR spectroscopy were used for the identification of fibers. The KS K 0251 Test Method as well as the IR spectroscopy and the SEM were used for the analysis of econ-fibrous matters. Fiber identification showed that each of the Pajoo samples were composed either of silk, cotton, or ramie. The results of the analysis of non-fibrous matters were as follows. The amount of water-extracted compound exceeded that of chloroform-extracted compound in both Pajoo 2 and Pajoo 5 samples. In Pajoo 5 sample which have already been dry cleaned using the mixed solution of n-hexane and n-dacane, the amount of chloroform extracted compound was 0% of the total extracted matter. The enzyme and HCI disintegration steps further removed the soils those were nonsoluble in water or chloroform. The most extraction was achieved at the HCI extraction stage.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.134-147
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• 2014

The aim of this study is to create smart wear that brings out the perspective person's individuality and creativity wearing these garments through various interactions. It is intended to build a prototype for a "Shape-folding Dress", which is length-adjustable skirt that responses with the environment of the wearer. In this process, four basic physical properties can be identified with fabric samples selected which are relatively stiff, including fusible interlining, organdy, silk, and ramie. In addition, two types of folding pattern specimens, "Basic Pattern" and "Diamond Pattern", and heat-steam were used to make the specimens so that the correlation could be calculated by recovery rate among flexing, stiffness and tensile properties. As a result, compared to other fabrics, the silk showed low stress to repeat folding and unfolding process, and its recovery rate of elongation deformation was stable without being affected by the different folding types and twice repeated process. In this study, forming a circuit using an Arduino, illuminance sensor, motors, and pulley, the prototype was created with a silk fabric.

• Composites Research
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.32-38
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• 2007

Natural fibers can refer to all types of fibres only produced by nature. Their lengths vary from particles to long strands. Natural fibers are categorized roughly by six types, depending on the types of sources; base, leaf, seed, grasses, fruit and wood. Of these fibers, jute, flax, sisal and ramie are the most commonly used as reinforced materials in preparing polymer composites. In development and improvement of these composites, many studies have been implemented to overcome the drawbacks such as incompatibility, moisture problems and so on. The range of industry sectors of natural fiber-reinforced polymer composites becomes more extensive gradually and many of the companies all over the world are engaged in fabrications or applications. This paper mainly discussed the recent status of the domestic/overseas market and research issues of natural fiber-reinforced polymer composites. We made an exception of wood-polymer composites market which have played a great role because they had been often dealt with.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.10
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• pp.164-172
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• 2008

Soochonri tombs are assumed to be of the Baekje Kingdom in the early 5th century. We have examined 12 artifacts and 24 textiles in the four tombs. Along with hemp textiles, silk and embroidery threads were found In the Soochonri tombs. Within the hemp textiles both hemp and ramie were made using s-twist threads and the thread count distribution is calculated to be $8.5{\sim}15.5/cm^2$. Taffeta, one of the silk, can be categorized in to four types. First, the plain woven silk was made with warp and weft of the same thickness. The rates of thread count are also similar. Secondly the warp and weft are of the same thickness but has more spaces between threads. Third, the type of warp and weft is different in thickness, the thicker thread woven in the same direction. Lastly, a textile was woven with spaces the same as the width of the reed mark in every two warps. There were five compound weave found. Among them one was made with non-twisted thread for warp and s-twist thread for weft. One plain braiding with apparent spaces between threads were found. All three of the twining were made with wefts thicker than warps, barely showing the warps as a result. Textiles of the Soochonri tombs are the oldest of the Baekje Kingdom studied by far and therefore important artifacts of the Baekje Kingdom. These textiles are similar to those found in the King Muryeong's Tomb and tombs of Gaya and Shilla.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.128-145
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• 2010

Nowadays people are turning to have a more intimate environment-friendly lifestyles. In the clothing industry they are focusing on making products that are more human-friendly and not harmful to the environment. In the midst of the spread of consumption research is being done to develop manufacturing textiles that do not induce pollution. For instance, advantages of the natural textile fibers, cotton, silk, and ramie, have been newly recognized in terms of environment-friendliness, Together with these fibers, the natural high molecular materials, such as chitosan and hyaluronic acid, have found new roles in the application sectors of human-friendliness and environment-friendliness. Products using these substances and processing methods can make the products more wearable, have high sensitivity, make people feel aesthetic appreciation for the products, and make them appreciate the value of a more healthier environment. In a survey according to subjects in their 20s and 30s, their preferences towards their consciousness and awareness of the development of materials as well as their attitude towards environment-friendly products were determined as a conclusion. It was shown that consumers that are more conscious about the interest of the environment as well as the problems concerning the environment were more intent on buying products that were environmentally-friendly. Women have shown more active and positive attitudes towards the importance of the awareness of the environment in comparison with men. Generally, consumers in their 20s and 30s preferred the feel of materials that were less than 1% concentration process than those of materials that were 1% concentration process. To increase the "rustly" feeling of the materials, it was found that 1% concentration process was suitable for manufacturing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.9-15
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• 2002

Compared with synthetic dyes, natural dyes have inferior colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the material to any environment that may be encountered during the processing, testing, storage, display or use of the dyed materials. Especially, colors on fabrics fade excessively after washing. Therefore, it is problem to infer the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to colorfastness and color change during washing. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Launder-Ometer was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to repetitive washing from 1 to 20 washing cycles (KS K 0430). Color difference(ΔE) in the CIEL＊A＊B＊ color-order system were determined by spectrophotometer at 100 bserver. Washing caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the dye type used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to repetitive washing. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to color change in washing except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in color, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.