• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.573-585
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• 2023

Comprehending the prevailing ideals of the body within a specific era requires grasping the intricate interplay between social phenomena and the evolution of clothing. Accordingly, this study investigates the distinctive facets of the perception of the Neo-Confucian body as reflected in men's dress during the Joseon Dynasty. We examine a comprehensive body of scholarship, literature, and historical records concerning the body and dress. Additionally, we also employ a framework developed by M. Y. Kim, which categorizes the Neo-Confucian body in three ways: as the natural body, the cultural body, and the body as a fully-realized moral subject. Our findings unveil three crucial insights: firstly, guided by Neo-Confucian discourse positing appearance as a manifestation of innate energy (氣), men's dress was deliberately designed to demarcate stylistic distinctions in women's dress; secondly, the Chinese gwan (冠) was employed as a tool of self-cultivation (修身) to symbolize the legitimacy of Joseon's Neo-Confucian governance; and thirdly, sim-ui (深衣), a philosophical emblem of Confucianism extensively represented across through an intensified exploration of historical sources, served as a means to consolidate the political standing of the Neo-Confucian faction. As a consequence of these factors, the attire of noble men conferred upon them both sexual and moral ascendancy as political entities; men's dress became a visual manifestation of the legitimacy of their power, thus embodying Neo-Confucian ideals. This study carries significance by applying a discourse analysis approach to Korean dress research and elucidating the factors underlying the development of men's dress during the Joseon Dynasty.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.70-85
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• 2024

This study aimed to examine the recent Hanbok school uniform design directions to contribute to the distribution of Hanbok school uniforms and the accumulation of Hanbok-inspired fashion design sources. We reviewed 16 academic papers published on Hanbok school uniform designs from 1998 to 2023 and summarized the design features proposed therein. We also analyzed 172 items of Hanbok school uniform designs developed under the Hanbok school uniform promotion project hosted by the Hanbok Advancement Center between 2019 and 2022. We found that the recent Hanbok school uniform design characteristics conformed to the design directions proposed in previous studies in terms of line, color, fabric, and textile pattern. Conforming design characteristics include the following. Overall, silhouettes were straight and moderately fitting to the body. Detailed straight and curved lines from Hanbok were applied. Designs showed traditional Hanbok colors, including white, black, and navy. Machine washable cotton and various blended fabrics were used. Modernized traditional patterns such as Saekdong, cloud, and Gwae were applied to textile designs. In contrast, some characteristics of recent designs deviated from the proposed design directions. Barrel silhouettes were found in casual styles of uniform items, including sweatshirts, hoodies, and jumpers. A wider range of materials, including fleece, quilted fabric, brocade, and Jinju silk, were used. Uniforms had looser silhouettes and were made with modern washable materials to meet students' preference for casual uniforms.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.108-123
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• 2024

This study aimed to explore sustainable fashion design plans and directions by analyzing Marine Serre's collection. Previous research was reviewed to derive classifications of the aesthetic characteristics of sustainable fashion design. This classification was then used to analyze the characteristics of the Marine Serre collection. Design analysis was conducted on Marine Serre's 2018 FW to 2023 SS collections. Marine Serre's sustainability characteristics are functionality, surprise, handicraft, and inclusion. The results are as follows. First, functionality is the highest among the four characteristics and includes the functionality of movement, the functionality of form, and futurism. This characteristic was observed in the use of all-in-one body suits, pockets, and workwear, showing the will and values of designers who value daily activity. Second, surprise includes the scarcity of materials and the unexpectedness of composition. The value of the clothing is enhanced by the use of scarce materials not typically used in clothing. In addition, Marine Serre is highly regarded for expanding clothing into life by incorporating material upcycling into the theme of the collection. Third, handcrafted features include exaggerated decorations, logo, retro designs, and natural properties, and intentional utilization is differentiated. Marine Serre's signature pattern suggests a suitable expression for the fabric to use the crescent moon for the season. Fourth, the collection expresses themes of inclusivity and cultural diversity. The results indicate that Marine Serre wants to contribute to a better future characterized by global coexistence.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.164-180
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• 2024

In the context of a globalized society where diversity, equity, and inclusion (DE&I) have emerged as pivotal values, the fashion industry is undergoing scrutiny for its practices related to body DE&I. This study examines the nature of the discourse surrounding body DE&I within the fashion industry, focusing on how such discussions are shaped, disseminated, and manifested in both the industry and broader society. Critical discourse analysis is applied by utilizing, content from the New York Times and leveraging Fairclough's analytical framework encompassing textual, discursive, and social practices. The findings indicate that the New York Times emphasizes diversity, with a significant focus on the shapes and sizes of women's bodies, developing a narrative centered around women's bodies through visible and representative domains. The analysis suggests conflicted discourse, with prevailing critiques against the fashion industry's standardization of beauty and superficial inclusivity efforts. Moreover, the industry's adaptation to social demands for body DE&I is observed as sporadic, often leveraging non-normative bodies as a marketing strategy rather than genuinely embracing diversity. This study highlights the importance of continuous, in-depth discourse and social practices regarding DE&I within the fashion industry, as well as the need for systemic changes and policies that genuinely reflect societal demands for inclusivity. The findings provide a foundation for future investigations into the multifaceted relationship between fashion discourse, DE&I, and social practices, advocating for a more inclusive and critically aware fashion industry.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.215-231
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• 2024

The changing media landscape has diversified how and what is discussed about fashion. This study aims to examine expert discussions about fashion shows on social media from the perspective of fashion criticism. To achieve this goal objectively, a text mining program, Leximancer, was used. In total, 58 videos were collected from the panel discussion section of Showstudio from S/S 21 to S/S 24, and the results of text mining on 24,080 collected texts after refinement are detailed here. First, the researchers examined the frequency of keywords by season. This revealed that in 2021-2022, digital transformation, diversity, and fashion films are now commonly used to promote fashion collections, often replacing traditional catwalk shows. From 2023, sustainability and virtuality appeared more frequently, and fashion brands focused on storytelling to communicate seasonal concepts. In S/S 2024, the rise of luxury brand keywords and an increased focus on consumption has been evident. This suggests that it is influenced by social and cultural phenomena. Second, the overall keywords were analyzed and categorized into five concepts: formal descriptions and explanations of the collection's outfits, sociocultural evaluations of fashion shows and designers, assessments of the commerciality and sustainability of the current fashion industry, interpretations of fashion presentations, and discussions of the role of fashion shows in the future. The significance of this study lies in its identification of the specificity of contemporary fashion criticism and its objective approach to critical research.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.199-214
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• 2024

Until now, research on consumers' purchasing behavior has primarily focused on psychological aspects or depended on consumer surveys. However, there may be a gap between consumers' self-reported perceptions and their observable actions. In response, this study aimed to investigate consumer purchasing behavior utilizing a big data approach. To this end, this study investigated the purchasing patterns of fashion items, both online and in retail stores, from a data-driven perspective. We also investigated whether individual consumers switched between online websites and retail establishments for making purchases. Data on 516,474 purchases were obtained from fashion companies. We used association rule analysis and K-means clustering to identify purchase patterns that were influenced by customer loyalty. Furthermore, sequential pattern analysis was applied to investigate the usage patterns of online and offline channels by consumers. The results showed that high-loyalty consumers mainly purchased infrequently bought items in the brand line, as well as high-priced items, and that these purchase patterns were similar both online and in stores. In contrast, the low-loyalty group showed different purchasing behaviors for online versus in-store purchases. In physical environments, the low-loyalty consumers tended to purchase less popular or more expensive items from the brand line, whereas in online environments, their purchases centered around items with relatively high sales volumes. Finally, we found that both high and low loyalty groups exclusively used a single preferred channel, either online or in-store. The findings help companies better understand consumer purchase patterns and build future marketing strategies around items with high brand centrality.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.232-246
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• 2024

This study examines options to revitalize a B2B textile trading platform, exploring user satisfaction and perceptions of the importance of several website features. Between June 8 and June 21, 2023, fashion studies majors and domestic fashion brand product planners were asked to use the website of an open B2B textile platform for 30 minutes and then evaluate its features by responding to a survey. The final sample for analysis wad comprised of 150 questionnaires. To analyze the key textile website features, a paired t-test, Importance-Performance Analysis (IPA), and multiple regression analysis were utilized. The analysis classified the key textile website features related to user importance and satisfaction into the following categories: convenience, appearance, product information, and uniqueness. An analysis investigation of the differences in importance and satisfaction for each website evaluation attribute found significant differences in 12 attributes. The IPA analysis revealed that attributes such as product reliability, quality, a convenient search function, and convenient page movement are highly important to users and garner high user satisfaction; these findings demonstrate the importance of maintaining these elements. Images on the main screen, the latest trend information, and product prominence attributes also garner high importance ratings, but result in low user satisfaction, which signifies extensive revision is required. Finally, user evaluation of the convenience, appearance, and product information of the website was found to affect user recommendation intention.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.260-286
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• 2024

This study investigates consumer experiences and word-of-mouth (WOM) intentions in luxury brand pop-up stores, including standalone and department store setups. Grounded in experience economy theory, this study examines the experiential elements based on the types of pop-up stores and the relationships among consumer experience, pop-up store image, and WOM intentions for each type. Data were collected from 300 visitors to luxury brand pop-up stores between January and July 2023 and analyzed using Smart PLS 4.0. The findings reveal several key insights. First, standalone pop-up stores offer educational and escapist experiences, while pop-ups within department stores have a single identified factor of consumer experience. Second, regardless of the store type, luxury pop-up store experiences significantly influence pop-up image perceptions. Third, luxury pop-up store image drives WOM intentions for both standalone and department store pop-ups. Notably, the unique image significantly impacts solely department store pop-ups and does not influence standalone pop-ups. Moreover, image perceptions in both pop-up store types do not significantly affect brand WOM intentions. Finally, WOM intentions for pop-up stores significantly influence WOM intentions for brands. This study contributes to the theoretical understanding of consumer experiences in luxury pop-up stores, providing practical insights for stakeholders in the luxury brand industry to enhance pop-up store image perceptions and WOM intentions.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.247-259
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• 2024

This study assessed the effectiveness of brand image communication on consumer perceptions of cruelty-free fashion brands. Brand messaging data were gathered from postings on the official Instagram accounts of three cruelty-free fashion brands and consumer perception data were gathered from Tweets containing keywords related to each brand. Web crawling and natural language processing were performed using Python and sentiment analysis was conducted using the BERT model. By analyzing Instagram content from Stella McCartney, Patagonia, and Freitag from their inception until 2021, this study found these brands all emphasize environmental aspects but with differing focuses: Stella McCartney on ecological conservation, Patagonia on an active outdoor image, and Freitag on upcycled products. Keyword analysis further indicated consumers perceive these brands in line with their brand messaging: Stella McCartney as high-end and eco-friendly, Patagonia as active and environmentally conscious, and Freitag as centered on recycling. Results based on the assessment of the alignment between brand-driven images and consumer-perceived images and the sentiment evaluation of the brand confirmed the outcomes of brand communication performance. The study revealed a correlation between brand image and positive consumer evaluations, indicating that higher alignment of ethical values leads to more positive consumer assessments. Given that consumers tend to prioritize search keywords over brand concepts, it's important for brands to focus on using visual imagery and promotions to effectively convey brand communication information. These findings highlight the importance of brand communication by emphasizing the connection between ethical brand images and consumer perceptions.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.287-298
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• 2024

Clothing is intimately intertwined with daily lives as every individual relies on it. The pervasive issue of plagiarism in the fashion industry has led to an increased demand to protect intellectual property rights. Currently, studies on the protection of fashion design intellectual property rights in China remain in the exploratory stage and warrant further investigation. This paper addresses the issue in two parts. The first part contains an analysis of the theoretical foundation for the protection of fashion design copyrights. It is further divided into three subsections. The first subsection primarily examines the concept of copyrights and laws. The second subsection focuses on the concept of fashion design copyrights and laws. The third subsection analyzes copyright laws concerning fashion designs in China. The second section offers an analysis of infringement cases involving fashion designs published during the Baiyi Cup Intellectual Property Case Summary Writing Competition held in China in 2023. It outlines the shortcomings of the current Chinese copyright laws regarding the protection of fashion designs, and proposes measures for improvement. This study argues that the institutional framework for intellectual property rights in the Chinese fashion industry should align with practical considerations and explores suitable legal regulations and how they relate to specific circumstances in China. Besides refining the legal framework, fashion designers and enterprises must take measures to entablish the intellectual property rights of their clothing brands.