• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제21권7호
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• pp.590-596
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• 2020

군용 방한복 상의 내피 원단은 원단과 패드타입 솜을 누빔(퀼팅)하는 형태로 제조되어 보온성을 부여하고 있다. 이렇게 제조된 방한복 내피 원단을 퀼팅원단이라고 하는데, 퀼팅원단은 윗실, 밑실이 각각 교차하여 원단과 솜을 같이 봉제하는 형태로 견고하게 제조되는 것이 일반적이다. 따라서 제조된 퀼팅원단에서 원단과 솜을 분리하는 것은 거의 불가능하며, 이를 분리할 경우 원단 및 솜에 상당한 손실을 가져올 수 있다. 본 연구에서는 퀼팅원단을 제조한 뒤 원단을 손상시키지 않고 후속가공을 통해 보온력을 증대시키고 두께 변화율을 안정화 시키는 방법에 대해서 연구하였다. 일반적인 솜 생산 시설 중 일부 설비를 이용하여 퀼팅원단을 통과시키는 비교적 간단한 방법을 통해 연구를 수행하였고 다음과 같은 결과를 얻을 수 있었다. 보온성의 경우 후속가공하기 전 퀼팅원단에 비해 clo값 기준으로 약 10 %가 상승한 효과가 나타났으며, 세탁 두께 변화율은 후속가공하기 전 퀼팅원단에 비해 약 10 % p. 안정화된 효과를 보여주었다. 이는 퀼팅원단 제작 후에도 후속가공을 통해 보온성을 향상시키고 세탁에 따른 두께 변화율을 안정화 시킬 수 있음을 나타낸다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.36-51
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• 2012

Quilting, a technique to join two or more layers of fabrics, has long been used in the textile and fashion sectors. To evaluate dimensional effect of quilting that changes according to the characteristics of fabrics, 3D scanning method is employed in this study. Goal of this study is to interpret how fabric's composition, stiffness, thickness, and weight affect the appearance when quilted fabrics are used in a garment. Surface reconstruction method based on 3D scanning is used as a research method to evaluate the changing appearance depending on the material properties quantitatively with the quilting method. Besides, exemplary virtual clothing is realized through a virtual quilting method in 3D digital clothing system based on the properties of fabrics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권2호
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• pp.217-224
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• 2007

This paper investigated spring/summer fabric trends of women's and analyzed the correlation between the fabric trends and finishing for 10 years (1995 S/S-2004 S/S). Fabric trend terms were selected from 5 fashion journals and were grouped by hierarchical cluster analysis using SPSS 12.0 statistical package. Also, finishing terms were selected and analyzed by frequency. The results showed that 13 representative fabric trend terms were clean, functional, lustrous, compact, rubbery, comfortable, chic, romantic, decorative, natural, fluid, textured, and ethnic trend. In terms of fabric finishing, 12 representative finishing were selected such as coating, calendaring, wrinkle finishing, decorative finishing, quilting, and washing. Finally, in respect of the analysis of fabric trends and finishing, washing and embroidery were used to represent ethnic trends and textured fabric was closely correlated wrinkle and decorative finishing. Fluid fabrics were expressed via wrinkle and coating and washing and wrinkle were used for natural feeling. Decorative fabric was expressed by embroidery and coating and decorative finishing were frequently used to show romantic and chic fabric. Also comfortable fabrics were correlated with easy care and rubbery, compact, lustrous, and clean fabrics were correlated with coating.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2013

This study analyzed the expressive characteristics of padding in contemporary fashion. The methodology of this study was quantified through documentaries, fashion collections, and internet news. The results of expressive characteristics and methods were as follow. First, variability showed the creation of dwelling space by air filling, detail mode by zipper, and diversity of recycled filling by zipper pocket. It reflected the pursuit of nomadism and subversion of permanence by change of filling. Second, it was sexual symbolicity that showed the blurred androgynous silhouette by air filling and padding bar design of the chest, stomach, shoulder for the male body silhouette. It emphasized male sexual identity and power through the expression of a modern ideal body. Third, decoration displayed various crafts (such as knitting), various fabric such as polapolis, suedette, corduroy, denim, leather, knit, and spangle. It reflected visual pleasure, scarcity and various interpretations. Fourth, playfulness character forms throug hair filling, unfamiliar fashion items, diversity of silhouette and change of uses. It reflected a pleasant feeling through astonishment and surprise, nostalgia involved in memory and childhood play and disembarrassment from reality. Fifth, simplicity showed the elimination of a sportswear's factor with regular wad quilting, elimination of wad quilting, wad quilting following the structural line of clothes and the structual line of clothes omitted. It reflected disembarrassment from stereotype and an emphasis on essential elements.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.851-862
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• 2011

The purposes of this study were to identify the material manipulation techniques for paper garments and their characteristics. Reference books or articles were reviewed and catalogues from paper garments exhibition or show, brochures from Paper Museums, and internet sites of paper fashion designers were selected for analysis. Paper has much similarity with natural cellulose textiles in appearances and contents but has much distinct differences in their physical characteristics such as strength, durability, washability, and resilience, and could be treated as one category of textiles. Paper garments were developed with practicality and functionality for the poor and Buddist monks at first but progressed into more aesthetics later for the rich. Paper garments could be divided into 4 categories of garments made of paper, paper thread fabric or knit, modified paper with wanter, and beaten bark of mulburry bush. Paper can be manipulated by coloring & cutting, bonding, or quilting and bonding or quilting can reenforce the strength of paper but cannot increase flexibility. Paper manipulated by weaving or knitting has very similar physical properties as cotton or linen and ideal for summer textiles. Paper can be manipulated with water to make a paper paste and bodice can be moulded with paper paste or Joomchied. Also we can express beautiful patterns on the surface of paper by washouting. Konnyaku paste or lacquer can be used to make paper garments to be waterproof.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권11호
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• pp.1353-1360
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to develop a cultural products design of korean image using fabrics. The study is carry out in literature research methods and make sample product. We examine existing researches about cultural product design development to understand developed items, materials, and design directions. The brainstorming method and the established literature researches were used to obtain the design components of Korean image. A cultural products design was developed into the decorative structural details. The results can be summarized as follows: Korean image is pure, passive, gentle, small, and lasting life-force at weeds and wild flowers. Korean form is rounded curve and soft silhouette as streamy, not exaggerate. Korean color is not a finishing treatment, non-dyed natural color, or pastel, light greyish, and dull tone. Korean textile is a natural materials as linen, ramie, and coarse silk. Final sample products are table supplies, home goods and bed goods applying the sewing method of tuck, quilting, top-stitching, patch work, applique and embroidery.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2003

Nowadays, retro to the past fashion is appeared just as often as new challenge and trial. The style of Renaissance Era is the most often revival theme for contemporary fashion. So, this study was focused on 16C of Renaissance costume. It is investigated the characteristics of Renaissance costume through referring the literature to be able to restore the past costume as through as possible with the object of building database for developing new design. This study is done in two different ways at the same time, direct study to restore and indirect study to refer. Direct one is of the past costume as thoroughas possible based on referring to the originals. The other is referring the costume historical literature The costumes to restore is chosen among 16C famous pictures on the basis of how much they can show the typical chracteristics of 16C costume. Materials including textiles and ornaments which are necessarily to restore were shopped in Dongdeamoon Market. Some materials had a problem to get exactly the same one in Seoul on 21C. After visiting imes, the materials is chosen as similar as originals. Three sets of costume were restored on the basis of referring "Pattern of Fashion" written by Janet Arnold. The costumes were restored by reinforcing bodice based on the size of waist and in every three works. The way of sewing is based on hand sewing for details and machin-sewing for seam. Quilting intl lining is uwed giving the fabric stiffness to maintain the form from the heavy padding. Also the part of piles on margins is used darts instead of gather, because of reducing bulkiness of seam. General closing methods are hook and eyes, and lacing with points.