• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.3
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• pp.96-111
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• 2012

This study is to analyze fashion phenomenon according to the concept of the characteristics of freewheeling to explain the de-constructive, eclectic, avant-garde tendencies in Contemporary Fashion. This study is to elicit the aesthetic characteristics through 400 pieces of visual data analysis from 2001S/S to 2011F/W that have the characteristics of freewheeling, nontechnical experiments do away with the classical form. The oriental ideas include the thoughts of different tastes that break the stereotypes according to the Western values and the pursuit of unconventional beauty. These also insist that everything in the world including human-being, nature and creation is not divided into two equal parts, and even beauty and ugliness originated from one. This study is to find the possibility of interpreting oriental aesthetics with open concepts that transcends the boundaries of full availability, unlike the Western values that accommodate the relative concept of the pursuit of diversity. Therefore, integrated and systematic approaches of oriental aesthetics that place much value on the coexistence of antithetic concepts are needed to understand the ambiguity of complexity and diversity in Contemporary fashion design.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.7 no.3 s.16
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• pp.87-105
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• 1998

Surveying the literature of architecture since the nineteenth century, one can identify two dominant but problematic attitudes, among several, that pursue the task of defining what modern architecture is and should be. The first is the search for meaning and the second is the pursuit of form. This study, following Michel Foucault, asserts that the dual formation of meaning and form is a historical product of modernity and belies architecture's uncritical dependence on language since the nineteenth century. This study is a critique and historical analysis of this pernicious reliance, and constitutes a first step towards thinking of alternative relations between 'words and architecture' in the modern world. In reconstructing this problematic, the paper has called on Foucault's seminal The Order of Things. The study follows his construction of the Renaissance, the Classical and the Modern episteme, and in brief fashion, reconstructs the relation between language and architecture in each episteme. In analysing the Modern, the study focuses on Hegel's Lectures on Aesthetics. Hegel placed architecture in a genre hierarchy within which architecture, because of its material basis, was fundamentally limited in its ability to express the Spirit. For Hegel it was, among the arts, poetic language, and beyond art, the language of philosophy, through which the Absolute Spirit could be atttained. Much of post-nineteenth century architecture has remained within the shadow of Hegel, where architecture's materiality is perceived to be a burden, and in order to secure its relevance in modern society, architecture was deemed to pursue the role of language. As the most recent and sophisticated example of architecture's pursuit of form, the paper analyses the work of Peter Eisenman. Though Eisenman's theoretical writings are replete with post-Hegelian rhetoric, his architecture remains dependent upon the model of language, albeit a structuralist one. The paper concludes that ultimately, the pursuit of meaning and form is unable to face the crucial issue of value in modernity. While the former decides to easily what it is, the latter evades the issue itself. The second installment of this ongoing study will pursue a third possibility alluded to by Foucault, where language remains silent, pointing only to its 'ponderous' material existence.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.59-74
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• 2013

Post-modern society leads us to accept diversity and variability instead of pursuit of the absolute truth, beauty or classical value systems, thus leading to hybrid phenomena. The purpose of this study is to analyze characteristics and expressive effects of hybrid expressions through which to provide conceptual bases for interpreting expanded meanings of fashion illustrations that express aesthetic concepts of hybrid culture. Hybrid refers to a condition on which diverse elements are mixed with each other, so any one element can not dominate others. It is often used to create something unique and new by a combination of unprecedented things. Hybrid can be classified into four categories: temporal hybrid, spatial hybrid, morphological hybrid and hybrid of different genres. Temporal hybrid from a combination of past and present in fashion illustration includes temporal blending by repetition and juxtaposition. Spatial hybrid shows itself in the form of inter-penetration and interrelationship by means of projection, overlapping, juxtaposition and multiple space. Morphological hybrid expresses itself through combination of heterogenous forms and restructuring of deformed forms. Hybrid of different genres in fashion illustration applies various graphic elements or photos within the space, and represents blending of arts and daily living. Such hybrid expressions in fashion illustrations reflect the phenomena of diversity and variability of post-modern society. Hybrid expressions in fashion illustrations predict endless possibility of expressing new images through combining various forms or casual elements and can develop toward a new creative technique.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.18-29
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• 2007

Since its birth, "Little black dress" that has been prospering and reviving continually for 80 years, is always favored as classical fashion item. This study focuses on how the "Little black dress", regarded as the beginning of the modern fashion, could become an eternal item over a century by analyzing the aesthetical characteristics of it. Thus, we can better understand the modern women and aesthetic value of modern fashion. The precedented studies and literatures are reviewed for recognizing the development of "Little black dress," and the scope of this study is limited only after the year 2000. Also, fashion work collections and various domestic and international fashion magazines are analyzed demonstratively. After the Little Black Dress was born with the bullish black color in the year 2000, the aesthetic characteristics of the newly spotlighted Little Black Dress in the modern fashion are as the following. First is modernism. Modern style of black dress is appeared through simple and moderate expressions such as pursuit of simple line, minimization of decoration and exclusion of accessories. Second is sensuality that emphasizes flashiness of black by gloss or see-through fabric and exposing one's body parts or dress that exposes body's curves not only express women's physical attraction but also show off woman's social status or roles. Third is feminism. Ruffle, ribbon, flowing-like fabric, and rhythmical details express charms of sophisticated and trendy women as well as romantic image of girlish sensibility. Fourth is hybridism. Experimental and creative thinking like designers' unique re-interpretation of "little black dress," fresh view to sexuality, breaking up of the existing principle of clothing compositions give wholly new aesthetic value.

• Journal of Korean Classical Literature and Education
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• no.32
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• pp.327-355
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• 2016

This study aims to identify petit bourgeois desires through the characters in "Oksosun Stories" from Cheonyerok, an eighteenth-century Yadam anthology. The desires and motivations of the characters are quite secular and egocentric. Because of this, their shared characteristics are similar to those of the petit bourgeois, as neutral existence begins to emerge during the transition from feudal to modern society. The concept of petit bourgeois generally means the public and the working class of modern society. The main character's behavior in the story differs little from general petit bourgeois attitudes. An important belief in petit bourgeois is not the ruling ideology in society but the achievement and stability of realistic and ordinary desires to fulfill their lives' satisfaction. Also selfish or antisocial attitudes and boundary characteristics appear in the process, depending on whether subject having any desire. However, the character's actions are limited in the governance system of a huge reality. And It is characterized by end goal being to meet their upward mobility and stability. This corresponds with Seang's (書生) actions of turning his back on his family and country as well as promising Jaran his love; and, he redeems himself with his family and society by acquiring stability after he passed the state examination. Furthermore, the contemporary significance of this work demonstrates Seang (書生) discovering his desires for human love; therefore, in order to affirm and gratify this desire, he endures the societal state of semi-feudalism against filial duty (不孝), disloyalty (不忠), and non-chastity (不烈), and he acts independently. In addition, on the strength of his pursuit of his desires, Oksosun frees herself from the caste restraint called gisaeng (妓生) and affirms her desire to become a subject of love, but she then deviates from the social system. Moreover, the limitations and achievements of the petit bourgeois are indicated in the actions of recognizing the social threshold of their past in the process, making independent efforts using their capabilities, fulfilling success in the state examination with their intellectual capacity, and re-entering society. From the late Chosun Dynasty to modern times, there is not only the type of contemporary people who hunger for fulfillment of their personal desire and live in free will, but there is also the feudal type that is still lacking in the understanding of independent life. This is not as different as in these present times. This literature asserts the meaning of awakening one's self-existence and assigning great value to the fulfillment of self-desires against the odds that are created by socio-political, cultural, economic norms of the era. "Oksosun Story" affirms the small efforts and successes of private individuals in reality. It also validates the search for life happiness through positivity. In this sense, even the contemporary reader would derive valid meaningfulness from this literature.