• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.801-816
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• 1996

The study is in depth an analysis of the consciousness structured in unisex, androgyny, punk and postmodernism fashion in order to explain the dominant bisexual trend in fashion since the 1960's. Bisexuality in fashion can be interpreted as an effort in recovering the attitude within commentarialism, as opposed to the dichotomous split of the sexes. It is a reflection of the fundamental desire to be as one and implies "freedom" as an expression of feminism and postmodernism furthermore. Bisexuality is a reactionary movement in fashion which encompasses adaptive ways to the world we now inhabit. It is also a clear picture of the necessity of destroying the dichotomous sexuality in order to achieve the freedom and the importance of realizing as a whole the oneness of human kind. Bisexuality in fashion primarily is the pursuit of a new perspective on the human entity required in the modern world. Namely a communitarian spirit devoid of sexual prejudices. And secondly, it is a phenomenon reflecting the transitional woes of the pluralistic society experiencing deconstructivism and reconstructivism.ructivism.

• 복식
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• 제40권
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• pp.151-170
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to examine the value of grotesque fashion and to predict the future fashion trend. The grotesque originates the formative art. It emerges towards of a century or transitional period in most case. In particular, it was used as the expressive method of an individual's inside and a satire on society through the work of artists in the Middle Age, the renaissance, the sym-bolism, the dadaism, the surrealism, the pop art, the technology art, and the post-modernism, etc. The grotesque in fashion is represented in the work of avant-garde fashion designers who lead the high fashion. The grotesque fashion which was combined with an image of non-formality, non-rationality, an absurdity and reality. It has been begun shape of female dress in the renaissance. Afterwards, it was represented in extremely exaggerated and distorted pop art, hippies' fashion in the 1960's. In the 1970's, it was reflected in genderless rock star and destructive punk fashion. It was also represented in the androgynous fashion which was combined with both sexes, the goth/gothic fashion which was expressed with a realistic and fanciful shape and the tattoo of skin-head in the 1980's. In the 1990's, the grungy look which was dirty and the cyber punk fashion. In general, it was also expressed by the avant-garde fashion designers. To sum up, a grotesque fashion which is expressed by experimental designers is classified into four shapes. 1, Union of some extraneous is expressed as different kinds of fashion theme, such as abnormality of texture, uses of surrealistic elements and chaos of sex. Although it appears that the abnormal union of grotesque has only discord and collision, it also shows a feeling of freedom for the tension. 2. Introduction of real and fanciful image is expressed as a cyborg, realistic description of disgusting animal skin and aggressive shape. Especially, it is worth while to notice Tierre Mugler and Alexander Macqueen's work which expressed the shape of mingling human of Middle Age. 3. distortion or exaggeration is expressed as an unformed shape, the exaggeration of a clothing size, the abnormal exaggeration of human body and the ignorance of clothing form. 4. Introduction of a disgusting image is expressed as an extremity of reality, motifs of death, clothing material of disgusting hair and the ostentation of sex. Motto which leads modern fashion is something new and shocking. The grotesque fashion is an expression of eagerness for something new. It often show something ironic in the form of humor which is embedded in an abnormal and shocking pattern. The grotesque fashion is represented as an extreme beauty. It will stand as an important element of the future fashion and as a particular style with the change and fluidity.

• 복식
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• 제27권
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• pp.5-16
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• 1996

In today's fashion Street is a birthplace of new generation fashion and Street Fashion have frequently influenced on high fashion. From this view point this study is a meaningful approach to forecast future fashion trend by examining the street style of youth who are regarded as Street Fashion leaders. The purpose of this study is to examine the Youth Fashion style in early 1990s and to pro-vide a reference to fashion designer and mer-chandiser in trend forecasting and product plan-ning. This study is focused on 1990s Youth Fashion style through the historical Street Fashion : 1950s Teddy boys & Mods 1960s Hippies & Skinhead and 1970s Punk. There were mainly two popular Street Fashion phenomena in early 1990s. There were mainly two popular Street Fashion phenomena in early 1990s. One is grunge fashion created by new gener-ation in opposition to existing generation society and impacting on hish fashion leaders. The other is Remix style that is mixed : sub culture fashion originated by young group in 1950-1970s with 1990s sensitivity. Both fashion styles origionated and led by youth of street have influenced on famous high fashion designeres as well as the general public. Street Fashion will continue to play an import-ant role in future fashion and more study and interest on Street Fashion should be taken by fashion forecaster and related.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.58-73
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of men's wear designs unveiled while Hedi Slimane worked for Dior Homme and Yves Saint Laurent. The study will analyze and focusing on the modernistic characteristics in order to discover the postmodernism trends in his works. The results of the research are as follows. First, Hedi Slimane's fashion style can be cited as grunge and punk due to the trend of expressing the subculture of postmodernism. The design features shown in Dior Homme were straight lines, leather, metallic materials and dark colors used to reinterpret a grungy punk style, romantic patterns, glossy materials, elastic leather, and bright colors were the salient features of Yves Saint Laurent. Second, the feature of cultural pluralism of postmodernism appeared as a type ethnic style. He presented this through the Third World images in the Dior Homme but Spanish matador images, Marrakech's images and North African images in the Yves Saint Laurent. Third, he feature of his style is metrosexual feminizing men's fashion and breaking up gender stereotypes. I-type and X-type silhouettes that emphasize the human body and feminine design motifs such as a skirt are dominated in Dior Homme, and he completed the metrosexual style by using materials, colors and patterns such as bright feminine pink, red, laces, fur, floral and leopard prints, as well as flagrantly expressing body contour.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.114-129
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• 2006

This purpose of this study is to research on the influence on the creation of young generation's street fashion of pop stars focused on pop music given the fact that fashion can be created by popular culture in this multi-media era. Also, this study is to provide useful data for the activation of the creation of young fashion culture and the fashion industry through pop stars' fashion. The pop stars' fashion that has affected young street fashion is as follows : Elvis Presley's rock'n'roll style, Beatles' mods style, Janis Joplin's hippy style, Sex Pistols's punk style, Madonna's boy-toy and corset style, Michael Jackson's androgynous style, Puff Daddy and L.L Cool J's hip-hop style, Bob Marley's reggae style, Spice Girls, Jennifer Lopez and Britney Spears's sexy style. The young street fashion culture of pop stars and its industrial meaning withdrawn from the above are as follows : Creation of a fashion icon, Creation of anti-fashion, Liberation of a sex role, Costume play culture, Activation of the young fashion industry through star marketing.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.110-126
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• 1997

This dissertation intended to investigate the black color as a fashion color of the late 20th century and the aesthetic consciousness of black fashion. Black usually expressed a negative meaning, and was regarded as a color for a mourning and a sacred dress in western culture. There found several periods of black trend specially after 14th century. Black was considered as a traditional color of men's fashion since Dandyism. By the effect of art d co fashion, the perception toward black changed to a new beauty in 20th century. There continuously found a lot of aspects of black fashion in the late 20th century. In the high fashion, popularity of black, could be seen at five different look and style : The era of line alphabet, pantaloons suit style, folklore style, mannish look and unconstructive design by Japanese, and in street fashion, it showed at four different style and fashion: Beat style, mods and rockers style, punk fashion and fetish fashion. The aesthetic consciousness of black fashion at the late 20th century mentioned above should be summarized as follows. : Minimalism, dandyism, nihilism, asceticism, eroticism. In 1990s, the black appeared under the retro mood, and it should be regarded specially as one fashion trend of inclination of simplicity. Black should be called the representative color of 20th century fashion with the reason of containing the most of aesthetic consciousness in modern fashion.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.139-148
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• 2010

As a designer, Rei Kawakubo had become one of the most influential woman of the 20th century. Comme des Garçons, which means "like boys"-what women in the early 1980s were least supposed to be-expressed criticism of the prevailing social construct of women and, importantly, of the very concept of fashion. The press had a field day with the so-called post Hiroshima look, with its aesthetic of destruction, poverty, and hunger and with its depressing mood engendered by the use of the color black. This research divided the change of design transition on Kawakubo's fashion by the three categories. The first category was experimental pattern, the second category was esthetics of omission and the third category was innovation of body consciousness. The costume messages through these design works of Kawakubo could summarize 5 items, punk sprit, beyond sex, reality, proposal of new body consciousness and representation of black.

• 복식
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• 제50권
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• pp.183-196
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• 2000

Andy Warhol is one of the great artists in the modern history of art who compares favorably with Picasso. His activities had his object on pervasion of a pop art and profit of the art industry. Many previous studies on his activities have attracted and held the attention of his works of art after 1960s. However in spite of his working as publisher of a fashion magazine fashion illustrator fashion model displayer and etc. in 1950s. there are few studies on his activities of 1950s. Hence this study investigates his works of art in 1950s. and intensively analyzes his effect on modern fashion. In 1950s, Andy Warhol had already been distinguished in works of art from other commercial designers through the illustration for advertising design window display of stores and usage of Hollywood stars as anessential element in his works for whom he had sighed when he was young His works were also characterized by a rejection of they originality of commercial arts. He had an great effect on youth's fashion in 1950s and has activities in 1950s had influence on the diffusion of the public punk fashion in 1970s and the street fashion in 1980s.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권8호
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• pp.904-912
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• 2003

This study for‘Head Image’, which is affected by individual Image, is via fashion collection to analyze formative feature, fashion emotion and meaning structure of emotion and to inquire into correlation. I will offer fundamental data, which is can use Image making from the state of thing. First, to make charm and personal image, if we consider Head image well, it will very effective by the reason that personality and charm operate as important factors in fashion sensibility of Head Image. Second, we can know Head Image has more strong influence the part of emotion than fashion sensibility by showing that the sense of emotion is higher than this point of view of fashion sensibility in Head Image. Third, As a result of the correlation of fashion sensibility and emotion in Head Image, personal Head Image is effective to attract public gaze by causing negative emotion, and attractive Head Image is effective to give pleasant feeling by causing positive emotion. Forth, Avant-garde, Punk, Kitsch Image were estimated as the most personal things and Romantic, Ethnic Image were estimated as the most attractive things of the type of Head Image. Natural Image was estimated as the most feminine thing, and Elegant Image was estimated as the most mature thing. Fifth, when we look into the different appraisals between experts and amateurs about fashion sensibility and emotion of Head Image, a selection of experts are used to peculiar and strong Head Image, so amateurs respond it more sensitively and highly evaluate.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제37권11호
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• pp.97-113
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• 1999

The purpose of this is to analyze the perception of sex image by feministic fashion based on the theory of feminism, which has been developed since the 1960’s. Feministic fashion is divided 8 style and analyzed. For this study, surveying photo of feministic fashion and making out questionnaires. The data was collected from 391 university student(184 male, 207 female) living in Taegu and Kyoungpok and is analyzed by factor analysis, t-test. The result are as follows: 1. The Tendency of perceiving Feministic Fashion’s Sexual Image Male had more positive view on the sexual image of see-through and Body-conscious styles than female. And male showed more negative view on the sexual image of lingerie, punk, madonna or disorganized style. There was no significant difference between male and female in their opinion on the sex appeal of fashion that exposed some physical part. Concerning the sexual image of unisex mode, both male and female had an idea that it had nothing to do with sex appeal. Regarding the preference for sex-expressive fashion, they favored see-through and Body-conscious styles most. 2. In relation to clothing behavior toward sex-expressive fashion, both male and female generally revealed a negative view on fashion that exposed physical part and provoked an impression of keen sex appeal. 3. Sexual perception degree about the body, in physical exposure, that physical part from which they felt sex appeal most was the breast. What they most wanted to emphasize was the breast, too. As a physical part that caused their rejection symptom and made them feel hatred both and female pointed out the hips.