• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.22
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• pp.313-332
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• 1994

The purpose of this study were as follows : 1) Investigate how to intluence Clothes with time background and trends of art-thought in the twenty century. 2) To understand chronologically how to change hair style Make-up and hair decor-ation. I. 1st and 2nd World War time(1920-1945) The women's social status and their sexual equality was promoted during in this time. 1) African Art Surrealism and Expression art were doninated. 2) The popalar trends were tutular silhoutte (Slim and long) boyish Style and military lookwere popular. 3) The popalar trends of were Eton Crop. short bob gaconne hair style cloche hat. page boy hair style were popular. 4) The trend of make-up which specially. emphasized eye make-up and imitated movie star make-up and make shining redish of lip and nails were popular. II. The stage of modernism(1945-1969) cold war time between communism and capi-talism and promotin of women's human rights were established in this time. 1) Pop art avantgrade art were catched up 2) The popular trends of were new look Kior's line silhoutte mini skirt and young fashion. 3) The popular trend of hair style was french twist. Pill Boxs hat curly bob style were prevalenced and they some what dwarfed hair style. 4) make-up natural make-up was popular. III. The stage of high economic development (1969-1990) Increased population economic development were tend to specialize with anti-social action such as Hippie and Punk groups. 1) Op art Androgynous post-modernism Punk and neo-modernism were catched up. 2) Clothes : classic style of reactionism layered look Punk-fashion avantgrade fashion and pantalon suits were prevalence. 3) Hair Style : Twiggy's short hair style the geometric hair cut natural long hair Spike hair unsex-hair style. 4) Make-up : diversified individuality were prevalence The result of this study indicated that the value's of recognize the importance of total fashion that is the harmonization of clothes hair style and make-up.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.61-70
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• 2005

A representative British designer, Vivienne Westwood's work. world from radical punk style to aristocratic historical dress is explored in context in terms of Englishness. National identity opens up into the process of mobilization of collective sentiment in the national context, unlike nationalism, and Englishness signifies the idea or emotion of England in contrast with Britishness, the political constructor influenced by geographical aspects. There is no doubt that Vivienne Westwood is central to ideas about creativity and originality in English design on subculture. However, in evaluating a designer and her work we should consider the entire context surrounding her from a broader view, rather than arguing only her own ingenuity. In this article, through reconsidering her originality in the historical reference as well as the resistant punk style in aspect of fluid national identity, I show a case of a constituted Englishness, forged by Vivienne Westwood as a cultural creator of national identity. Vivienne Westwood's case hints the complexities of national culture, which constantly shifts, translating her understandings of history and culture into fashion in her contemporary insight and glamorous ways.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.151-165
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• 2018

Keith Haring is an artist from the 1980s who was highly influenced by the pop art of the 1960s, sublimating the '60s pop art into high art using cartoon images. His work contained social messages via the aesthetics of pop art. This satire seems to be intertwined with the punk style of the 1970s, as well. In this context, this thesis has developed a new "Punky-Pop Look" by integrating the art work of Keith Haring, which has both artistic value and popularity, with punk, which is a funky culture with the aim of creating something new. The purpose of this research is not directly borrow from Keith Haring's work, but to develop and apply a new fashion motif having its own unique story based on his cartoon style formativeness and creative ideas in order to further design the punky-pop look in the trend of "Hybrid Fashion." This thesis can establish a good precedent for applying the cartoon style formativeness of Keith Haring to the development of a fashion motif having its own unique story, and suggest punky-pop fashion design. Based on this thesis, new creative motifs can be generated continuously, not by simply borrowing but by developing existing art work.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.101-118
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• 2003

This paper describes pop stars' fashion style by the changes of pop music from the 1950's of the formative Period of a rock-n-roll to the 1990's. The author could examine the features of pop music as follows : the 1950's rock-n-roll, the 1960's rock and Psychedelic rock. the 1970's punk rock, the 1980's new wave and the 1990's reggae·hip-hop. Based on the examination, the author could do sampling of the fashion style, on which current pop music had influence, by rock style, new wave style, and reggae hip-hop style. The rock style makes appearance again as a new style when it is recently accepted to be a fashion. The 1960's hippie, which contains long-cherished desire of antiwar and peace after September 11, 2001 Attack on America and the Afghan War. reappeared as luxurious hippie, and the hybrid punk has been made because barriers between cultures have been collapsed to mix items and combine contradicting components at fashion field. The new wave style destroys sex difference of clothes. and men's clothes style has introduced women's dress style, so that androgynous style, which has handsome boy image with womanlike hair style and makeup, and the lingerie style without distinction of underwear and outer garment has made appearance through new cloth wearing ways and overexposure. The reggae and hip-hop style makes appearance to overcome social strata, groups, ages, regions and gender, etc and become one of the 21s1 century culture codes. In conclusion, pop music have played very important roles until expansion and popularity of new fashion style, and has been quickly expanded by mass media development. When the pop music fashion styles are introduced to high fashion, fashion styles have become more polished and high-qualify to expand them at main fashion world again.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.183-203
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• 2007

This study aims at providing useful fundamental information to re-establish the theories of modern fashion by examining the origination and genealogy of street style. The street styles focusing on caucasoid have a variety of genealogies such as western type, beat, teddy boy, hippie, skinhead, punk, neuron-mantic, indie kid, riot grrrl, grunge and techno cyber punk. In the same period, on the contrary, the streets styles focusing on negroid are zootie, hipster, modernist, rude boy, two-tone, rastafarian, funky, B-boy, fly girl, raggamuffine, bhangra, and acid jazz, which are seen as the culture of the large cities formed along Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean sea like England, America and Jamaica. These have root as the main fashion in western society. Ironically, most of the subculture concentrated on the whites were racists. Because of such a reason, the street styles have been formed as resistance culture that was unable to sympathize with their society and characteristics by distinguishing the whites and the colored people. Zootie or hipster that is one of the street fashion styles was formed in the 1940-50s, while the colored people who lived in the west Indies migrated to England or America. As a minimal modernist style called Ivy look in US, in that time, anti-culture formed by teenagers in whitey, teddy boy and mods fashion can be strictly different from the zootie and hipster. The colored people's street styles of the 1960s developed into aggressive and hard forms from the rude boy and two-tone while their resistance toward the whites was stronger. The rastafarian style researched the peak as the colored people's traditional ethnic characteristics or resistance intention for their freedom in the 1970s. In that time, The colored people's street styles of the 1960s developed into aggressive and hard forms from the rude boy and two-tone while their resistance toward the whites was stronger. The rastafarian style researched the peak as the colored people's traditional ethnic characteristics or resistance intention for their freedom in the 1970s. In that time, the street styles of the whites were mostly the skinhead or hippie. Most of them were racists toward the colored people. The punk type on shown on the whites focused on luxury and exaggerative costume. On the contrary, the funky style of the colored people focused on aggressive nihilism and form. With B-boy, fly girl, reggae, rap music, and break dancing in the 1980s, the subculture gradually told on the high fashion as well as the culture between the whites and the colored people. From such aspects, the colored people tried to maintain their unique traditional characteristics. However, their individual values surged by the coming young generation excluded the colored people's characteristic street styles. Focusing on gender, violence and private success among their major concerns, the raga muffin style that represents multi-races and multi-cultures was formed. The jazz style in the 1990s showed cold post-modernistic eclecticism different from that of the 1940s-50s. Simultaneously, the various classes appeared their street styles by emphasizing on each personality. Now that we are living in multi-cultural society, a human race or nationalism concept is getting obscurer. There is no obvious boundary line in the differences between human race and its fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.3 no.1 s.4
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• pp.1-12
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• 2005

The purpose of this thesis is to study the formative characteristics and symbolism shown in Rock stars' hairstyles through rock music to have influenced youth culture. There were a D.A style and a mop top style which included the youth characteristic to seek a new desire and value as the hairstyles of Rock & Roll stars, along with the characteristics of Rock & Roll music to represent the feeling of teenagers in 1950's at that time unlike the previous music due to high beats mixed with Rhythm & Blues (R & B) and Country music, and use of electronic guitars. We can see the desire for challenge and freedom against the then present regime, shouting love and peace, and resistance in the Psychedelic Rock music stars' hairstyle, which are untrimmed and disheveled, that is, natural. We can find explosiveness in Mohican and Spike style of Punk Rock stars playing fierce and aggressive music, along with words including indignation and assertion against the society's regime. The Artistic characteristic is implied in the following hairstyles: Glam Rock stars' hairstyle, a man's long-haired but a little long crew-cut style to reduce the bulky feeling and to give a bisexual, visible shock with hair dyed in orange to emphasize magnificence, and Punk Rock stars' hairstyle showing beauty in their own way with expression of anti-beauty to intentionally look ugly. Like this, the 20th Century's Rock music and youth culture are closely associated each other, and showed a new style, and played a leading role in street fashion, which became a momentum to much influence high fashion as a look of the 20th century modern fashion.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.101-111
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• 2006

Jeans fashion in contemporary fashion has various meanings and values, and the importance of it increases. The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative feature characteristics and the aesthetic values of Korean jeans fashion. Fashion photograghs from leading monthly fashion magazines from 2000 to 2005 were analyzed. The types of styles and the formative feature characteristics and the aesthetic values of Korean jeans fashion were studied. The major conclusions of the study are as follows 1. The types of Korean jeans fashion styles were western style, punk style, neo classic style and ethnic style. 2. The characteristics of Korean jeans fashion designs were the varieties in material, color, technique of expression and application. 3. The formative feature characteristics were traditionalism, sexualism, extraordinarily and exhibitionism. Korean jeans fashion has developed creative and decorative designs through various designs and styles. As the activities of the people can be increased in the future, the function and the design of jeans fashion can be developed diversely.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.7
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• pp.155-166
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to investigate the types of jeans fashion in the basis of designer brand. and to analyze the symbolic characters of jeans fashion. Designer brand re-established jeans fashion by compounding high cultural factors and low cultural factors. broke up the boundary between street fashion and high fashion. and escaped from fixed idea on materials and design. This study divides the types of jeans fashion within the designer brand into classifications of Hippie style, Punk style, American Street style, Neo-classic style, and Grungy style. Today, reinterpreting the resistant image of jeans fashion, designers creates the various styles and also restores the upscale image of it. The symbolic characters of jeans fashion are summerized as sexuality, deconstructiveness, conspicuousness, humour, and multiculturalism. As the results of the symbolic characters of jeans fashion in the new Millennium era will suggest the wide aesthetic expression and continue to influence a more diverse jeans fashion trends.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.27-37
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• 1999

The results of this study are as follows : 1. Though Korean college women have taken unfriendly attitudes and thoughts to Japan, they have enjoyed themselves over the various Japanese cultures. 2. They have thought that Japanese fashion becomes popular in Korea, Japanese clothes are superior to Korean clothes in quality, and they are suitable to express personality. 3. Japanese clothing elements which become popular now in Korea are the clothing style of ‘school girl-look’, ‘Avant-garde’, punk hair style, and the various shapes of shoes, accessories, and make-up.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.55-65
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• 1998

Actually, Cyberpunk is a compound word joined by cybernetics, which was used in control theory, and punk, was symbolized as anti-culture. Today, however, the definition of the term has been extended by various fields, used in many meanings. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to apply the Cyberpunk concepts to understand today　s fashion because understanding of the present fashion is a means to interpret our culture. For this purpose, the phenomenon of Cyberpunk in fashion was subdivided into three factors material, color, and style. The results of the study were as follows : First, the materials used were techno material, special print by computer for future feeling and geometrical pattern, optical pattern to improve visual effects. Second, the colors mainly used were silver, black and white, bright color, and off-color of computer animation to present future-oriented feeling. Third, the general styles used were fit and slim, simple and liner, dualistic style to express future　s image. In conclusion, the phenomena of Cyberpunk in fashion were expressed in material, color and style of fashion. Cyberpunk fashion was evident in T-shirts, sweaters, jackets, or as items of ornamentation such as pins, pendants, belts, and earrings, etc.